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  2. I plan to Velcro both sides so I can open it all the way up without bending when I put them on. I don't think I'm actually going to glue anything structural together on this suit at all! Plus I may add additional fiberglass to some key stress areas before coating with Flex Seal and painting.
  3. You’ll need two red stripes on the tubes, too And I suspect the bicep lines are a touch too long but you’d need to post up side-on pics.
  4. Have you guys figured out how to keep stress off the shins and forearms in this fiberglass yet? I noticed Jeff's got cracks from opening it to get his legs/arms in. Traditional methods for this is gluing one side and velcro the back and then clamshell opening it. However, this seems to have produced a lot of cracks in the fiberglass for Jeff. Thanks
  5. Oh, by the way, this armor is constructed with overlap mode, so, there is no real coverstrip. As the AFP armor is made to be used for ANH/ESB armor, one side has the flat cover part, usually "at the front" part, the other doesnt have it. That's why you maybe see some weird or almost not existing "coverstrip", i tried to thermoform them with a little of heat, but i was scared to destroy the piece, so i just did a little of bending to make it. I hope the sentence can be understood.
  6. Thanks for the advice! In the process of making some improvements, will be posting update pictures later this week. Shortened the strapping on the the chest and it seems to fit a better now, will have to see how excessive moving impacts it. Also added strapping to the arms, so those all sit a bit more still. Widened up the biceps so I could get them further up my arm. Still need to fix the tube stripes, waiting on some stickers for that one, and the surgical removal of some paint from the ab button. A lot of it seems to be adjustment issues in terms of how the costume is sitting on you. How do you best keep that sort of thing stable during actually wearing the costume?
  7. A few years ago, I bought a Sterling SMG Mark IV L2A3 parts kit. My plan was to create molds to reproduce accurate parts to build a few blasters. My efforts were only partially successful. Frustrated, I abandoned the project and set the kit aside. Fast forward, and last year a friend of mine bought a 3D printer. By trade, I am a mechanical designer with access to a very nice piece of modeling software, SolidWorks. I decided the way to move forward on my quest to acquire an extremely accurate E11 blaster would be to develop 3D models by measuring parts from my kit and having my friend print them. I researched information on the accessories that transformed a Sterling into an E11. Lots of good stuff out there. I bought a replica 1943 M38 tank scope and modeled that. Same for t-tracks and power cylinders. The only thing I couldn’t find a satisfactory level of detail on, was the Hengstler counter. In full disclosure, I borrowed one from Thingiverse. I am attaching some pictures of the complete model. I would appreciate any feedback you could offer. TK-14082 Carolina Garrison Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Hey Isaac! I'm also building one of Jim's suits currently and our group build will have threads up soon (we just got 1/4 BBBs yesterday!). Have you already checked out Jeff and Johan's threads? TONS of info in there. Since you're going to be painting over it, you'll definitely want to use a filler and paint that has some flex to it, otherwise it will crack your paint. We haven't quite arrived at an answer yet, but let's keep each other posted if we find something that works. We're looking into like a fiberglass automotive bumper filler currently. I've been told to stay away from Bondo... Jeff also used a Flex Seal brand product to coat the inside with good results - only caveat was that velcro wouldn't stick to it.
  9. Fantastic! My question is about how you did the shins and forearms. Most ABS builds uses the industrial strength velcro front and back, or bra hooks with one side glued. My concern is keeping stress off this fiberglass when pulling the back open to put your legs or arms in. I'm trying to avoid stress cracks as much as possible.
  10. Today
  11. For the surface cracks I used glazing putty. For more serious structural cracks I used two part epoxy. Not sure if that is the right answer, but that's what I used.
  12. Plastidip or Flexidip on the insides to make it comfortable to wear. Just put a few light coats on.
  13. Honestly I think the only long term fix would be to paint the armor. I've done the whitening job about 4 times on my backup ESB helmet and it comes back every time. It's okay because I don't really use it. But my armor is the same plastic as that helmet and I've done the whole suit twice now. So I'm almost to the point that I will just be upgrading my armor this fall. My armor is already 5 years old. I will also say it certainly comes down the type of plastic that was used. I got my first helmet from troopermaster which is over 5 years old and it has not yellowed at all. My ESB helmet and my everyday armor is MTK. If I stand next to a newer set of armor you can really tell how yellow I am.
  14. Yeah!! JAson, Welcome to the Legion and FISD . Make the Empire to be proud..
  15. Congratulations Chris, Welcome to the Legion and FISD !!!
  16. Any ideas on how they are getting the armor on (overlap)? Really liking the gun
  17. Ok thanks. I do have the pack, I just got approved for HWT in my Starkiller Garrison. I guess I should make a ‘reporting for duty’ post. The semantics looked to me like you could swap out the pack in lieu of the TD ... as long as you actually HAVE a pack. I could envision times where leaving the pack in the dressing room could be advantageous, such as a tight-quarters setting (like the tiny library I just trooped) or if you found yourself having to get geared up with no help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. I too have used the gel to help restore the white back to my yellow armor but like you say it's a quick fix and not long lasting. I found it's effect lasted for the next troop and then the yellow came back very quickly. I was wondering if I should try the gel again or admit defeat as to get the gel shipped to the UK from trooperbay would cost me $26. I don't want to derail the thread but has anyone else on here had long term successful results when they used the gel to whiten their armor? I thought I might drop trooperbay a message to see his take on whether it's worth trying again to get a good result long term.
  19. Anyway, the holster was a gift i got from a friend, so it's ok if i can't use it, no problemo with it
  20. I know. I took part in it Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
  21. It was added long time ago after a discussion on the TKC CRL update post
  22. I don't know how the holster was added to CRL. I believe it was decided that the game doesn't have a holster. Maybe someone will clarify for the both of us. Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
  23. My armor doesnt have coverstrips, so i don't have one, and the pieces are flat, so i tried to "make" a coverstrip with some heat, but didn't want to heat to much and maybe destroy the piece. Also, yes, there is holster for commander, check out the CRL, there is the ANH Hero/Stunt, ESB and ROTJ style
  24. Always great to see Bender kit up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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