ANH build: this is where the fun begins

[LoudDragon]

A New Hope Stunt Stormtrooper build

 

MY size:

 

height: 5'7"

weight: 135

 

while I'm not good at detailing everything I've done here, I still think this will be very god for anyone else looking for reference material, or other tutorials for someone my size. for the most part the only adjustments made to the actual armor so it fits properly is the thighs and abdomen pieces. 

 

tools used:

 

Tin snips

Pliers

Exacto knife

Drawing Compass

Dremel

Head Lamp

Belt sander

220 and 320 sand paper

 

 

 

beginning of thread: 

 

Just a preliminary check, I have put together almost all the tools I need, but I'm not quite sure about some.

 

 

These are the cutters I have at the moment, a long time ago I used them for sheet metal. Would these possibly be too "powerful" of cutters?

 

I have also put togeather Clamps, a filing set, safety glasses/gloves and finally E6000 glue.

 

I also have some standard work tools such as screw drivers, hammer, pliers, rulers, sand paper, and a drill bit set

 

I am still looking for a Respirator and rivet tools, becuase...

 

What type of respirator am I looking for?

What rivet tools do I need? 

 

I have checked out the tools and parts thread, these are the items I'm not sure about because there are different types I may be looking for.

(I don't know if there's different size rivet tools, and I don't know what type respirator to get)

 

Lastly, I want to ask what build tutorial would be best to follow.

My armor is coming from AuthenticProps (thanks again Mark) and I have been watching RSprop masters build videos.

 

 

Edited April 29, 2025 by LoudDragon
I wanted to add some information, and introduction for anyone else that reads this thread

[revlimiter[Staff]]

You want lexan shears. They're little scissors meant exactly for this task.

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Hobbypark-Trimming-Scissors-Bodyshell-Helicopter/dp/B088WVN6M5

Here's a set on amazon, though I haven't tried this exact set. They're all about the same. A set of these shears does about 1 TK kit exactly.   You can also get them at a local hobby shop. Their real job is to trim the hollow plastic bodies of RC cars. So that sorta hobby shop, not a Hobby Lobby style place.

 

 

Respirators - I never used one when building my TK. I use them in my daily job but never had any worries about TK building. About the worst fumes are from melting the ends of elastic straps.

I use one of these to protect me from cancerous materials I use in my profession.  I can wear glasses with it. I used to have a full face helmet when my eyes were better.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RBS4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009POHLRC

 and these filters.

 

https://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-Durable-Setter-229-24/dp/B07CQWTB36

Snap tool. I swear by this simple thing. You hammer Tandy Line 24 snaps into elastic and nylon strapping with it.

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Snaps-Nickel-1263-12/dp/B003ABSPT4

100 snaps is about enough for a TK kit.

 

 

 

 

 

[TikiTechie[TK]]

Personally I used tin shears like yours but slightly smaller. Find yourself a pair that don't open so wide, like scissor sized.  Some of the thicker parts & edges really require a heavy duty tool.  You will be sanding those edges for sure.  The little lexan scissors are useful for details and tight spots, but not for large areas in my experience.  I would have both on hand.  

You should hopefully be scoring and snapping long cuts when you are doing longer pieces and need a smooth straight edge. You don't want to hack & nibble your way across a large cut. 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I like to use a rotary tool (or 3, hate changing tips so I purchased another 2)

 

 

    

 

I feel I have more control and cuts down on trimming time, but it's entirely up to you what method you use

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Hi James.

With respect to which build to follow, you can find other AP builds in this thread. 
 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/

 

There is no one specific one to follow but by looking through the build thread lists, you can find other AP builds.  Look for builds with APmin the title.  My kit is AP and there is a link to my build thread in my signature below. 

[dblcross[TK]]

Looks like you're off to a good start,

[Shanester[TK]]

I agree with other on the tin snips.  They will work but might be unwieldy for precision cuts. Score and snap with save you some sore hands.  Measure twice, cut once.

[Tilheyra[IPM]]

Rare Earth magnets really come in handy to help secure spots where clamps can't get to.

[LoudDragon]

I've begun trimming on my bicep parts, and I haven't been able to find a lot of reference photos for them, I haven't looked for very long, but if anyone has a detailed trimming guide please let me know. I have checked out Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt) reference.

my main problem is that the biceps include ridges, should I take these off? I would assume so since there are strips glued across the seams.

 

I have started sanding, and I just realized, should I be worried about plastic particulates? specifically inhaling them. 

 

also, the clippers I have do a good enough job getting the larger areas, but horrible in corners. so I have been using a knife to score the plastic, fold and remove the excess. would a box cutter be better due to a shorter blade giving you more control?

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Most of the bottoms are trimmed off but you can leave some return edge if you have skinny arms, helps to fill out the areas, same for the tops. Some armor makes have the raised areas, which you normally keep on if you cut them off they may be too narrow, coverstrip widths:

Arms 15mm

Thighs 20mm

Shins front 20mm, back 25mm they are a little wider to attach velcro

 

Bicep references.

 

 

 

 

 

The can be stepped or cut on an angle, either is acceptable to L3. I prefer trimmed on an angle so they don't stick into your arms when moving.

 

Also note the elastic, attached to inner top of the arms

 

I've not tried using a box cutter on plastic apart from making coverstrips, this is where the rotary tool is very handy for.

 

Cover Strips threads: gazmosis, I'm Batman, sith_241, & Falciform13

ANH & ESB Cover Strip lengths and Ends by CableGuy

Scribe technique for Cover Strips by chiefbonan 

 

Great thread on return edges

[Tilheyra[IPM]]

8 hours ago, LoudDragon said:

also, the clippers I have do a good enough job getting the larger areas, but horrible in corners. so I have been using a knife to score the plastic, fold and remove the excess. would a box cutter be better due to a shorter blade giving you more control?

 

You'll find there are multiple different methods, but two of the main ways are the ones you mentioned. Personally, I found that the clippers I used make their way around more corners than I anticipated, so for any corners that I couldn't get through, I ended up scoring and snapping with a hobby knife. However, I always left excess material throughout this process because I used a sander to remove that last little bit of excess and round or square the corner properly (as applicable). A rotary sander (such as a Dremel with sanding attachment) is always helpful for rounded corners.

 

I recommend always leaving a small amount of excess material as you cut through corners, because you will remove that excess when you sand the corner later. 

[LoudDragon]

I had just finished on the helmet today, at least everything but the paint, and I am somewhat ok with how it turned out. I do feel I trimmed the left ear down way too much, and the mouth holes on the ends are too large, but I think it should be fine.

 

// -- My helmet -- \\ 

https://imgur.com/a/Eand2Z6

 

when I attached the ears, I was worried about the screws putting stress on them, so I placed extra bits on the screws underneath the ears, just big enough for the ears to be flush with the helmet (at least to an extent) anyone else do this?

 

notably, I would like to get the mouth looking a little cleaner, especially from my sanding, it looks sloppy. 

 

The Hovi mic tips were actually the first thing I put on the helmet, before I even joined the front and back. I started  by trying to score with my knife a guide for my drill, (so it doesn't slip) but I ended up going through the plastic. I didn't even push that hard until it sliced about a half inch. 

 

anyway just an update on my build, hope I still have strength to finish the actual armor.

[LoudDragon]

I've finished cutting all the excess from the main armor parts, and... almost none of the arm or legs parts fully line up with each other, the two halves for fore arms, biceps, thighs and calves for the most part don't line up. is this just everyone's experience? 

 

I attempted to fix this on the right thigh using a hot air gun, but it didn't do anything. (was really just too worried I would melt it) I would take it you put the parts in place when gluing, hence the need for clamps and magnets.

 

this morning I had just mask taped my suit together to see how well it would work. I think the only problem I had with getting it on was the right shin, I couldn't get it on without ripping the tape.

 

 

maybe wasn't the best idea to wear jeans and a jacket underneath.

 

Right off the bat... (PLEASE keep in mind this is just me pointing out whats Obviously wrong, so I can keep an eye out for it later) 

 

// shoulders should be closer to chest plate

// chest plate, abdomen and thighs should be higher

// shins should sit a little lower

 

A little stout for a stormtrooper.

(this is before completely finishing trimming)

two other questions I have.

 

can you use white sealing caulk for the helmet/armor?

 

(particularly on the mouth due to trimming too much, and the ears since they do look sloppy and I don't dare cut anymore)

 

does anyone sell left ears? I just want a left ear.

 

Edited April 25, 2025 by LoudDragon

[Tall_Trooper[Staff]]

Looks pretty good. It's not a deal breaker. Cut off the longer side at the edge. The rest is covered by cover strips.

 

It's best to use ABS sludge for filling. A mixture of ABS residues and acetone

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

The uneven edges are pretty common.  As Torben mentioned, just trim back the longer edge.

Make sure to have your actual undersuit on when measuring pieces for fit cutting. This will ensure everything fits okay.  

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Looking good so far!  That's some considerable progress.

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

20 hours ago, LoudDragon said:

I've finished cutting all the excess from the main armor parts, and... almost none of the arm or legs parts fully line up with each other, the two halves for fore arms, biceps, thighs and calves for the most part don't line up. is this just everyone's experience? 

 

I attempted to fix this on the right thigh using a hot air gun, but it didn't do anything. (was really just too worried I would melt it) I would take it you put the parts in place when gluing, hence the need for clamps and magnets.

 

this morning I had just mask taped my suit together to see how well it would work. I think the only problem I had with getting it on was the right shin, I couldn't get it on without ripping the tape.

 

 

maybe wasn't the best idea to wear jeans and a jacket underneath.

 

Right off the bat... (PLEASE keep in mind this is just me pointing out whats Obviously wrong, so I can keep an eye out for it later) 

 

// shoulders should be closer to chest plate

// chest plate, abdomen and thighs should be higher

// shins should sit a little lower

 

A little stout for a stormtrooper.

(this is before completely finishing trimming)

two other questions I have.

 

can you use white sealing caulk for the helmet/armor?

 

(particularly on the mouth due to trimming too much, and the ears since they do look sloppy and I don't dare cut anymore)

 

does anyone sell left ears? I just want a left ear.

 

I attempted to fix this on the right thigh using a hot air gun, but it didn't do anything. (was really just too worried I would melt it) I would take it you put the parts in place when gluing, hence the need for clamps and magnets. It's pretty standard that pieces don't align fully, using magnets, clamps as well as tape, put downwards pressure on the armor while wrapping with tape tightly. Some have success with hot water bath, I use a heat gun but that's after A LOT of practice, you are right to be worried, it can go from pliable to molten mess in the blink of an eye.

 

this morning I had just mask taped my suit together to see how well it would work. I think the only problem I had with getting it on was the right shin, I couldn't get it on without ripping the tape. Normally wrap around fist then tape up, helps with another pair of hands

 

 

maybe wasn't the best idea to wear jeans and a jacket underneath. When sizing you should wear your undersuit, amazing how much room gets taken up by jeans and jacket, also correct boots 

 

Right off the bat... (PLEASE keep in mind this is just me pointing out whats Obviously wrong, so I can keep an eye out for it later) 

 

// shoulders should be closer to chest plate yes

// chest plate, abdomen and thighs should be higher yes

// shins should sit a little lower wait for correct boots

 

A little stout for a stormtrooper.

(this is before completely finishing trimming)

A few builds from shorter troopers who have made some modifications

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38842-fragarocks-rs-stunt-build-not-to-scale/

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/

 

 

 

two other questions I have.

 

can you use white sealing caulk for the helmet/armor? Really up to your GML some may approve, personally I wouldn't

 

(particularly on the mouth due to trimming too much, and the ears since they do look sloppy and I don't dare cut anymore) I would tape from the back and use ABS slurry/paste, apply thin coats, sand with various sizes until using ultrafine, then polish.

 

Making ABS Paste by kman (Print PDF)

Resize Armor with ABS Scaps & Paste by Harbinger (Print PDF)

 

does anyone sell left ears? I just want a left ear. Be careful here, there is a BIG difference in shades of white between makers and their suppliers, drastic on some, almost cream compared to others, try to stick with the same maker.

[LoudDragon]

so I refitted my armor again, and I trimmed up the right thigh due to it being to large on one half. now its smaller then the left thigh.

(theres only an inch difference between the two thighs at the lowest point)

 

also wearing sweats this time which fit much better for the armor, though a little baggy.

(wrong boots and blaster)

 

so of course nothing is actually strapped together yet, but again I'm still running into the same problem earlier, I can't get the shins on/off properly without undoing the tape.

 

the Right shin circumference at the end is 13.5".

the left one is 13"  and is the worst of them.

 

Thanks Glen for the links I'll be checking those out.

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

16 minutes ago, LoudDragon said:

 

 

 

the Right shin circumference at the end is 13.5".

the left one is 13"  and is the worst of them.

 

Thanks Glen for the links I'll be checking those out.

 

so of course nothing is actually strapped together yet, but again I'm still running into the same problem earlier, I can't get the shins on/off properly without undoing the tape. Yes you would have to remove the tape, once the fronts are glued and cover strip attached you can open the shins at the back enough to get your shin/foot in and out comfortably, the rear attach either hooks and elastic or velcro or even magnets

 

 

 

How to stop them rotating

 

[LoudDragon]

so I trimmed up my left thigh by 1 inch from the top and it feels like it fits much better, I can now bend my knee to a 90 degree without pain. 

 

I'm also going to trim up my shins a little at the bottom so they fit on my boots better.

 

looking at the thigh pieces they are really large on me. I'm going to shorten them down so they don't look so huge on me.

 

*Edit

 

so I have tried fitting the thighs shorter in circumference, and got the about the same size each, but the shape at the bottom doesn't look right

 

I haven't cut anything yet but I don't know what to do here, they need to be smaller though thats for sure.

Edited April 26, 2025 by LoudDragon

[LoudDragon]

Ok so I have talked with my supplier and he has pointed out that the return edges on the bottom of the thigh should be 2 1/4" so I have measured those off, but I don't know how large the upper circumference should be, without which I can't make a proper cut. does anyone have measurements for this?

 

for reference my thigh measurement is 20" widest to the joint

Edited April 27, 2025 by LoudDragon

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Generally you size to your, there is no one size fits all, BUT you don't want to size too small or it looks odd. I have a fingers width gap in my thighs as I have really thin legs, I added some foam inside so they sit central.

 

A few threads on amor sizing

Pandatrooper has some great videos

For the shorter trooper you can add mobility cuts BUT this is after you are fully strapped, I've seen a few people go too far and that can look odd.

 

 

I don't get full movement in armor, probably 1/3rd knee bending, although with holding the thigh up I can get all the way kneeled down.

 

 

[JBar[TK]]

You're going through the same growing pains I went through when I built mine. It's all a bit nerve wracking putting it all together and seeing how everything doesn't seem to fit well but trust me once you get all the strapping installed it'll magically start to look the part. If it helps I made this document going through the my own trials and tribulations and maybe it can be some help for you:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1zDc4mtEDg0A_SfHcZXgXtmkzhSrBwaReTHWvdrcmMJg/edit?tab=t.0

 

I wanted to chime in about return edges. I personally kept around 1/4" of return edge around nearly all my armor pieces. This was my individual choice. You'll see in a lot of screen used shots that the return edges are completely removed while other troopers have thick return edges. I liked the "fuller" look of the armor so I tried to keep some return edge on everything. I did have to remove the return edge around the openings of my forearm/wrist for level 3 but otherwise all my armor has at least some return edge showing.

Here's a return edge guide: 

Keep in mind though that this guide generally recommends removing return edges often at the very least for comfort reasons. But you'll see even it shows examples of some armor have return edges and some not:

 

So in the end don't sweat the return edge thing too much. You can always remove plastic if you need to but you can't add it back. My personal opinion again is to leave around 1/4" around all the armor and trim it down for comfort as needed. Just keep putting together bit by bit. I had the same issue where often pieces wouldn't perfectly line up. That's part of the wonkiness and charm of the armor. Just use clamps and use E6000 over super glue so you can take back mistakes if you make them.

And like I said it'll all come together once you put the strapping in. I was discouraged when dry fitting my armor but as soon as I installed snaps and had it all glued together I was shocked how much everything seemed to fix itself

 

[LoudDragon]

ok, I've finally figured it out, so for now I am done with the thighs, I did my best to match them in circumference on each end and have trimmed them down so no going back now.

 

I'm just about ready to start gluing the cover strips, but I'm going to wait until tomorrow. I have some nitrile disposable gloves to use for the glue and a respirator, I'm going to see about picking up an apron. I hope to only take about 2 days for gluing in total, not including the drying and curing time. I have started doing more work on the smaller pieces such as the thermal detonator, sniper knee and ammo packs.

 

While trimming up the front and back kidney plates, I had taken off a little too much, so I intend to use the cut offs to fill the gap between the two.

 

as for the strapping I do have an idea of how to assemble it...

 

1:The kidney

   I'm using a belt for the kidney section underneath. the belt I have is double notched through the             entire strip making it perfect to attach the thigh straps as well. I'll add elastics with snaps on the end       at the sides for the front to connect.

 

2:The torso

    I'll make my own suspenders to connect to the belt to hold the shoulder bells, and torso plates in           place. 

 

3:The limbs

   the thighs still sit a little large on me so I'll be adding foam padding to them.

 

just an update for my progress, I don't have any questions... yet. I know there are lots of videos going over the gluing process, so I'll be looking through those.

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

ok, I've finally figured it out, so for now I am done with the thighs, I did my best to match them in circumference on each end and have trimmed them down so no going back now.

 

I'm just about ready to start gluing the cover strips, but I'm going to wait until tomorrow. I have some nitrile disposable gloves to use for the glue and a respirator, I'm going to see about picking up an apron. I hope to only take about 2 days for gluing in total, not including the drying and curing time. I have started doing more work on the smaller pieces such as the thermal detonator, sniper knee and ammo packs. Make sure you rough both surfaces with some course sandpaper prior to gluing, gives the glue a little more to grab too. Let glue dry for at least 24 hours, any areas under pressure I leave a little longer to dry, 48 to 72 hours.

 

While trimming up the front and back kidney plates, I had taken off a little too much, so I intend to use the cut offs to fill the gap between the two. Post up a few photos we may be able to guide you

 

as for the strapping I do have an idea of how to assemble it...A guide to the most common way, adding double snaps can help just in case one lets go

 

 

1:The kidney

   I'm using a belt for the kidney section underneath. the belt I have is double notched through the             entire strip making it perfect to attach the thigh straps as well. I'll add elastics with snaps on the end       at the sides for the front to connect. 

 

2:The torso

    I'll make my own suspenders to connect to the belt to hold the shoulder bells, and torso plates in place.  I use this setup, has adjustment for thigh height. You don't really need the belt to hold to the shoulder bells, could get tricking to put on. You will find that the whole armor will "clamshell" at naturally want to sit on your shoulders, belt does all the work holding your things up.

 

 

 

3:The limbs

   the thighs still sit a little large on me so I'll be adding foam padding to them. 

 

just an update for my progress, I don't have any questions... yet. I know there are lots of videos going over the gluing process, so I'll be looking through those.

 

This may be of help down the road