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Dan’s ESB Build-Anovos


DocDan

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Hi team!

 

Well, I kind of fell into this helping another in our garrison finish his ANH kit. He had originally purchased this one then found another that was built a bit to a taller frame…so this one was just laying around. I had been tinkering with an OT kit and thought ESB would be different plus I was always drawn to that film 🤫

Most everything seems to be trimmed and the MTK bucket is put together(that needs some touch up to the teeth and vocoder black paint areas. It also needs the ear boxes outlined  in black. Please let me know if you see something out of the ordinary.

 

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Edited by DocDan
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Very nice, helmet may need some updating, ESB used different tube stripe and cheek traps decals

 

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References

mollostormESB1.jpg.7fd47202d152d72170bd9eff9ca8e9cb.jpgorigESBpatch01.jpg.8d3a554a470931507f12074d803c388d.jpgmolloesb8.jpg.41767df0c1617dfe70e6d6ca4adb5dc8.jpg

 

Here are some of the differences between the OT versions

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view

 

Good luck with the build

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I worked on the TD yesterday. I made sure the overall length is 7.25” and the screw heads were painted black. I have not glued the top plate on yet but if it looks good as it is, I will do so.

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4 hours ago, DocDan said:

Thanks Glen! 
I see they have these decals on Trooper Bay. I’m assuming these are the ones?

deHfzGI.jpeg

 

 

That will be them

 

With your TD screws for L2 and above they should be slotted not Phillips 

For Level 2:

1.  Clips shall be attached with slotted type flat or dome-head screws, and be black (two per clip).   V-head or Philips screws are not permitted.

zFwGkWQ.jpeg

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Nice work on the spacing :D 

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50 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

That will be them

 

With your TD screws for L2 and above they should be slotted not Phillips 

For Level 2:

1.  Clips shall be attached with slotted type flat or dome-head screws, and be black (two per clip).   V-head or Philips screws are not permitted.

zFwGkWQ.jpeg

QKiTB7a.jpg?1

 

Nice work on the spacing :D 


Thanks for pointing that out! Easy fix for me as I have some slotted screws hanging around. I will go ahead and glue the top abs part to the tube as well.

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Really depends on your arms and the fit, you can remove all of the return edge or leave some to fill the space if needed. Front to the forearms you remove ALL the return edge.

 

 

For Level 3, no return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.   Return edge must be completely removed, especially in the "hump" area as seen in the reference images below.

 

gallery_12157_59_23801.jpg

 

gallery_12157_59_74923.jpggallery_12157_59_55194.jpggallery_12157_59_55366.jpg

 

 

 

Great thread here on return edges

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

People may disagree here but outside the forearm wrist areas I personally tried to keep around 1/8" or so of a return edge around most of the armor. I find it gives a nice "fullness" effect. While it's not wrong to remove more return edge each movie TK was different and there are definitely examples of TKs with more return edges. Here's how much I had as you can see on the forearm on the left side

KrmA7OP.jpg

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