Dan’s ESB Build-Anovos

[DocDan[TK]]

Hi team!

 

Well, I kind of fell into this helping another in our garrison finish his ANH kit. He had originally purchased this one then found another that was built a bit to a taller frame…so this one was just laying around. I had been tinkering with an OT kit and thought ESB would be different plus I was always drawn to that film ?

Most everything seems to be trimmed and the MTK bucket is put together(that needs some touch up to the teeth and vocoder black paint areas. It also needs the ear boxes outlined  in black. Please let me know if you see something out of the ordinary.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 22, 2024 by DocDan

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Very nice, helmet may need some updating, ESB used different tube stripe and cheek traps decals

 

References

 

Here are some of the differences between the OT versions

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view

 

Good luck with the build

[DocDan[TK]]

Thanks Glen! 
I see they have these decals on Trooper Bay. I’m assuming these are the ones?

 

 

Edited September 22, 2024 by DocDan

[DocDan[TK]]

I worked on the TD yesterday. I made sure the overall length is 7.25” and the screw heads were painted black. I have not glued the top plate on yet but if it looks good as it is, I will do so.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

4 hours ago, DocDan said:

Thanks Glen! 
I see they have these decals on Trooper Bay. I’m assuming these are the ones?

 

 

That will be them

 

With your TD screws for L2 and above they should be slotted not Phillips 

For Level 2:

1.  Clips shall be attached with slotted type flat or dome-head screws, and be black (two per clip).   V-head or Philips screws are not permitted.

 

Nice work on the spacing  

[DocDan[TK]]

50 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

That will be them

 

With your TD screws for L2 and above they should be slotted not Phillips 

For Level 2:

1.  Clips shall be attached with slotted type flat or dome-head screws, and be black (two per clip).   V-head or Philips screws are not permitted.

 

Nice work on the spacing  

Thanks for pointing that out! Easy fix for me as I have some slotted screws hanging around. I will go ahead and glue the top abs part to the tube as well.

[DocDan[TK]]

Replaced the TD screws. ?

 

[DocDan[TK]]

Starting to mark the return edges for fine trimming. Let me know if these lines look correct please?

 

Forearms

 

Bicep

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Really depends on your arms and the fit, you can remove all of the return edge or leave some to fill the space if needed. Front to the forearms you remove ALL the return edge.

 

 

For Level 3, no return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.   Return edge must be completely removed, especially in the "hump" area as seen in the reference images below.

 

 

 

 

 

Great thread here on return edges

 

[JBar[TK]]

People may disagree here but outside the forearm wrist areas I personally tried to keep around 1/8" or so of a return edge around most of the armor. I find it gives a nice "fullness" effect. While it's not wrong to remove more return edge each movie TK was different and there are definitely examples of TKs with more return edges. Here's how much I had as you can see on the forearm on the left side

[DocDan[TK]]

On 10/4/2024 at 8:40 AM, JBar said:

People may disagree here but outside the forearm wrist areas I personally tried to keep around 1/8" or so of a return edge around most of the armor. I find it gives a nice "fullness" effect. While it's not wrong to remove more return edge each movie TK was different and there are definitely examples of TKs with more return edges. Here's how much I had as you can see on the forearm on the left side

 

 

 

Thanks @JBar John. I appreciate that and am actually doing the same thing on my forearms. (side note: I do a fair amount of troops with Garrison Excelsior!)

 

 

Edited January 22, 2025 by DocDan
Placed response in proper area

[DocDan[TK]]

Got some work done on the forearm seams. How do these look, Especially the outward visible ones with the ridges? How do the cover strips look as well?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, looking good.

 

If needed you can cut cover strips on an angle or shorter if they hang over the ends at all, mind you most just cut the overhang off, all is approvable

 

[DocDan[TK]]

Great @gmrhodes13 thanks! I wanted to check before I applied e6000. That will be next.

How does this bicep look?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

39 minutes ago, DocDan said:

How does this bicep look?

 

 

Looks good 

[JBar[TK]]

"Measure twice, then measure again, and cut once" as they say with this hobby. Better safe than sorry. Looks like you're getting the hang of it. Just make sure to give a solid 2 days of drying for E6000 and you'll be good to go

[dblcross[TK]]

Be careful with your thighs when you get to it.  I glue the wrong halves together and trimmed! Luckily E-6000 saved the day,  and I didn't trim to much.  I was able to make it work out without having to order new thighs and start again. 

[DocDan[TK]]

I was able to get some work done on the biceps and forearms.

 

I finished glueing cover strips on the biceps:

 

I made the inside strap hooks according to Tony's build:

 

...and used CA glue to attach them:

[DocDan[TK]]

Strips all glued to the forearms!

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good

[DocDan[TK]]

I am going to start the shins next. However, I am finding it difficult to match them up. I thought I had them correct but now not sure. This is what I have..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

This Anovos build may help 

 

"NOTE. Your shins may be mis-labeled by Anovos. The shins come labeled in pairs 24/25, 27/28. A good majority of customers are stating they should be 24/27 and 25/28. Regardless of the numbering system when assembled they should resemble the following image. Note the long swooping outer edge verses the shorter inner. These should resemble the anatomy of your legs. Double check before final assembly."

 

 

[JBar[TK]]

I had a different kit but the shins didn't line up at all. What's important is that the tops line up and then use a dremel to follow the shape at the bottom and shave one side down until it meets up with the other side

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

The shins on Anovos was a fun exercise in working out. As stated you cant trust the markings.  The way I found it easiest was to look at the line at the bottom if you look at the image in Glens post you can see the sides have a bias at the bottom when in the right place so that the "bigger" side is on the inside.

[JBar[TK]]

Interesting that Anovos has longer "inner" shin sides. My Walt kit appears to bias longer outside shins. I don't think it matters unless someone else has some insight