DocDan[TK] Posted March 29, 2025 Author Report Posted March 29, 2025 1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said: This thread may be of use There are a couple of versions, ANH without hengstler or power cylinders and the Promo version, it is a little different to the ROTJ style which your image appears to be. Modified ANH Promo version (pre ROTJ), note the T tracks, not channel and no screws as in your photos above @gmrhodes13 Yeah-thanks! I did look at that thread and it was very helpful. It does appear the one in my pictures is one of the variants and should be able to be used if I replace the greeblies with the rebar clips. He has some on there but they do not look correct. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 29, 2025 Report Posted March 29, 2025 10 minutes ago, DocDan said: @gmrhodes13 Yeah-thanks! I did look at that thread and it was very helpful. It does appear the one in my pictures is one of the variants and should be able to be used if I replace the greeblies with the rebar clips. He has some on there but they do not look correct. Having another deeper look there are a few other issues with the one you posted Scope is different Screws on U channel should be closer to the ends and countersunk by the looks of the reference U channel should cover all barrel holes Front sight Guide in front of scope Endcap Greebles No cocking lever, Barrel groove only half circle on the end and not correct 1 Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted March 29, 2025 Author Report Posted March 29, 2025 13 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said: Having another deeper look there are a few other issues with the one you posted Scope is different Screws on U channel should be closer to the ends and countersunk by the looks of the reference U channel should cover all barrel holes Front sight Guide in front of scope Endcap Greebles No cocking lever, Barrel groove only half circle on the end and not correct Oh boy. Yikes! That sounds like a lot to fix. I have a Hasbro E11 perhaps I will stick with that and get the DHPFX retro fit kit. https://www.dhpfx.com/shop/stormtrooper-blaster-e-11-hasbro-conversion-kit Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 29, 2025 Report Posted March 29, 2025 44 minutes ago, DocDan said: Oh boy. Yikes! That sounds like a lot to fix. I have a Hasbro E11 perhaps I will stick with that and get the DHPFX retro fit kit. https://www.dhpfx.com/shop/stormtrooper-blaster-e-11-hasbro-conversion-kit Although these are fine for base approval doesn't hurt to check with your GML as some are a little stricter than others. I still use my Hasbro blaster although I did a few other mods and added a longer barrel and t-tracks. These toy blasters were pretty common builds on the forum way back when I started but it's been a few years since they have been in stores, still pop up on eBay though. 1 Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted March 30, 2025 Author Report Posted March 30, 2025 Installed the Han snap…Not sure if I needed to but thought I would since it was in Tony’s build guide! 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 30, 2025 Report Posted March 30, 2025 6 hours ago, DocDan said: Installed the Han snap…Not sure if I needed to but thought I would since it was in Tony’s build guide! It is an option and not required base approval but required for L3, hopefully we'll see you apply for EIB and Centurion at some stage 1 1 Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted March 30, 2025 Author Report Posted March 30, 2025 Glued the other half of the back thighs yesterday… Did not know what else to use for a bit more pressure so took my belt off and it worked perfect! Will wait 72 hours for these to cure. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 30, 2025 Report Posted March 30, 2025 2 minutes ago, DocDan said: Glued the other half of the back thighs yesterday… Did not know what else to use for a bit more pressure so took my belt off and it worked perfect! Will wait 72 hours for these to cure. Very ingenious, I have used velcro before, could also use the adjustable car/trailer snatch straps. Definitely 72 hours to be sure Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted April 3, 2025 Author Report Posted April 3, 2025 Worked on the holster. Removed the old rivets and got some black leather strapping. Made both strips 11” long and punched both ends to accommodate the new rivets. Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted April 4, 2025 Author Report Posted April 4, 2025 Worked on reinforcing the belt where the holster straps will hang. I used a temporary advertising license plate! Cut it down, cut the belt through one layer and slid it in. Finished by using a small dab of e6000 on the remaining cloth part of the belt. I also cut some small patches out to fill the ANH holes where the holster was attached. This should keep it sturdy when wearing it. It’s funny because I am doing all this but have never even worn these things. I hope it all comes together soon! Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 4, 2025 Report Posted April 4, 2025 Belt definitely needs some stiffener, especially if you want to holster your weapon, nothing worse than see a scrunched-up belt on the side. 1 Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted April 5, 2025 Author Report Posted April 5, 2025 Are these trimmed correctly? If so, Is it three or four tabs that need to be glued and showing on the chest plate? Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 5, 2025 Report Posted April 5, 2025 Look fine, many armors won't accommodate this but screen references show 1 large tab and 4 1/2 to 5 small tabs, my ATA only accommodates 2 1/2 tabs, there is no requirement. When adding glue I places chest/back strapped over a box and align the fronts so the rear covers the backplate. Also not a requirement but you can cut off (or in half) the big tab on the rear, screen suits didn't have them From the DO's guide: "NOTE: As seen in the photos below, there are no large tabs on the rear of the shoulder bridges. This is not specifically mentioned in the CRL, but removing them is highly recommended if possible." Also "Level 3, they shall free float in the back, be glued in the front and need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric/elastic chest/back connection." 1 Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted April 6, 2025 Author Report Posted April 6, 2025 Working on the right thigh, ammo pack. Hoping these markings and placement looks good? Will not proceed until I get some feedback here. Looks like the hole and rivet need to be in the center? Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 6, 2025 Report Posted April 6, 2025 The curved lower corners aren't quite as full as you have trimmed it but I doubt it will be an issue for base approval Reference 1 Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted April 6, 2025 Author Report Posted April 6, 2025 1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said: The curved lower corners aren't quite as full as you have trimmed it but I doubt it will be an issue for base approval Reference Ok thanks @gmrhodes13! That is weird as the Anovos cut lines were followed I will commence drilling into the thigh sides for the rivets. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 6, 2025 Report Posted April 6, 2025 1 hour ago, DocDan said: Ok thanks @gmrhodes13! That is weird as the Anovos cut lines were followed I will commence drilling into the thigh sides for the rivets. Unfortunately can happen, depending on maker of armor, Anovos didn't consider a lot of details, like having four connection points on the belt for the holster that's for a Hero version not Stunt. Always check our galleries if unsure 1 Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted April 10, 2025 Author Report Posted April 10, 2025 drilled the 1/8 holes in the right thigh and used some double cap rivets to secure. Painted the rivets with Testors gloss white. Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted April 10, 2025 Author Report Posted April 10, 2025 Just a loose fitting here. How does the fitment/placement of the chest to the bottom cod piece look? I feel the chest should be a bit higher? Here is what I have for placement of the shoulder straps… Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 10, 2025 Report Posted April 10, 2025 Yes I think the chest could come up a touch, will be easier to manage once you have the shoulder straps attached. Note the gap between the ab plate and chest The gap on Luke was a lot closer due to his height 1 Quote
JBar[TK] Posted April 11, 2025 Report Posted April 11, 2025 Can your ammo belt be positioned/glued so that it doesn't droop so low? I believe it's pretty normal for ammo belts to have a slight upward angle to cover up closer to the cover strip Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 11, 2025 Report Posted April 11, 2025 Pretty much they are all over the place, some low, some high, also the position of the boxes References Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted April 11, 2025 Author Report Posted April 11, 2025 16 hours ago, JBar said: Can your ammo belt be positioned/glued so that it doesn't droop so low? I believe it's pretty normal for ammo belts to have a slight upward angle to cover up closer to the cover strip Hi Glen, Yes-there is some play and I can certainly move it upwards to cover more of the armor gaps and closer to the cover strip. I purposely did not glue it yet just in case there was some feedback like this! 2 Quote
DocDan[TK] Posted April 12, 2025 Author Report Posted April 12, 2025 Glued a curved spacer piece of abs to the bottoms of the shoulder straps for more glue surface contact area. Then applied glue then on to the chest! 3 Quote
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