ANH Stunt "fitting/adjustment" thread (AP)

[BAZINGA[TK]]

5 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

The arms turned out fantastic, Bart!  Yeah, the drop boxes could definitely be raised a bit and moved toward the rear.. in a perfect world they should look like the diagram below.

Not to add to your list of woes, but I have 2 other easy to remedy suggestions if I may.

 

1.  In the first pic it shows the top of your ABS belt covering the bottoms of the ab/button panels, but in the second pic it shows it sitting a little low.  Not a requirement for Basic, but since the snaps that connect the cloth belt are already set, what you can do is use a piece of industrial Velcro (bottom photo).  I use this same method.  I borrowed Adam's pic to illustrate this.

 

2.  In the second photo, I noticed that you have a point on the inside of the top of the forearm.  This will poke into you, especially since while trooping we have our right arm bent in most of the time while carrying an E-11.  I would suggest taking some sandpaper and rounding that off.   Trust me.

 

               

 

 

On a side note:  DANG I'm glad to see what a great job you did removing all those return edges!    Keep up the great work, Bart.. you are doing fine!

 

 

I still say we need to start an OCD support group here.  I'll be the first to sign up.. 

 

It's called the antecubital fossa, but elbow armpit sounds perfect.  I am so going to steal that phrase, Adam.

 

I can't take any credit for the return edges on the arms.  Mark at AP built all of this.  I'm just adjusting the strapping for a good fit for me.  There are some additional return edges I will need to attempt to remove on the butt plate and the thighs.

 

I will round off that forearm corner more.

 

So far even removing the belt from doesn't seem possible.  It's like the tightest snaps I've ever encountered.  

 

I'm taking it that I should go ahead and glue the arm strapping as is?  No one is telling me otherwise.

 

Bart

[BAZINGA[TK]]

Gearing up my brain to remove some return edge on the thighs as recommened here.  Had a small brain cramp as I did a test fit with the left one, but picked up the right one to wear.  Wondered what was wrong with my body that these were below my knee.  Obviously not enough sleep.  

 

I decided the best way for me to visualize what I am going to attempt was to tape it along what I consider the return (anything past where it starts to curl over) and where running my finger along the inside tells me it is curled.  I came up with this.  Am I on the right path here?  It would be up to a 3/8 of an inch curl in some spots.

 

I would prefer to do this with the scissors except where the cover strip is on the top because that makes a double thickness.  I am shown on this thread to smooth that whole piece over so I would attempt the dremel to cut off the double thick part.

 

I may have some in person help to guide and assist, but I want to be prepared to tackle this myself.

 

This would be the beginning of the end phase for fitting myself.  The actual thigh and shin seemed to fit nice as Mark had made some adjustments based on our pre-order discussion in terms of sizing.

 

Thoughts?  

 

Bart

 

 

 

 

 

 

[revlimiter[Staff]]

Yup. I'd use that tape line as a final trim line. That should look good. Definitely match the front cover strip to the new thigh edge level.

 

It'll be SO much more comfy without that upper thigh return edge.

[BAZINGA[TK]]

12 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

The arms turned out fantastic, Bart!  Yeah, the drop boxes could definitely be raised a bit and moved toward the rear.. in a perfect world they should look like the diagram below.

Not to add to your list of woes, but I have 2 other easy to remedy suggestions if I may.

 

1.  In the first pic it shows the top of your ABS belt covering the bottoms of the ab/button panels, but in the second pic it shows it sitting a little low.  Not a requirement for Basic, but since the snaps that connect the cloth belt are already set, what you can do is use a piece of industrial Velcro (bottom photo).  I use this same method.  I borrowed Adam's pic to illustrate this.

 

2.  In the second photo, I noticed that you have a point on the inside of the top of the forearm.  This will poke into you, especially since while trooping we have our right arm bent in most of the time while carrying an E-11.  I would suggest taking some sandpaper and rounding that off.   Trust me.

 

               

 

 

On a side note:  DANG I'm glad to see what a great job you did removing all those return edges!    Keep up the great work, Bart.. you are doing fine!

 

 

I still say we need to start an OCD support group here.  I'll be the first to sign up.. 

 

It's called the antecubital fossa, but elbow armpit sounds perfect.  I am so going to steal that phrase, Adam.

 

A closer look at the belt tell me that my belt is riveted onto the ab not snapped.   I won't be changing that.  So, when the time comes I'll take some detailed photos of the drop boxes and see if there is a fix with a permanent belt mounting.  It may just be the way it is, but I think I could put a glue dab in there that would move them over to the proper position.  Lifting the belt to cover the button just a bit doesn't seem like it is possible either because getting velcro under it isn't feasible if the belt doesn't come off.

 

I started marking and gluing the bicep elastic today and rounded off the corners of the cover strips as suggested.  How does this look now?

 

Not sure why it takes me 2 hours to think about 2 minutes of gluing...

 

Bart

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

If the belt is permanently attached and you don't want to tackle removing it from the fabric belt you could just cut the drop box elastic then move and glue in the correct position, or remove all of the elastic/strapping and add new then glue in the right position.

 

And NOTE the reason they are tilting backwards is because the elastic/strapping needs to be glued towards the top of the drop box so all the weight from the strap is on the top corner of the drop box.

 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

3 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

If the belt is permanently attached and you don't want to tackle removing it from the fabric belt you could just cut the drop box elastic then move and glue in the correct position, or remove all of the elastic/strapping and add new then glue in the right position.

 

And NOTE the reason they are tilting backwards is because the elastic/strapping needs to be glued towards the top of the drop box so all the weight from the strap is on the top corner of the drop box.

 

 

These drop boxes are riveted to the elastic too but I can get add glue there easy enough.  I know exactly what you mean as the cause.  I'm sure I can correct the position and the hang of them in phase 3 of the fitting process or if I feel like squeezing it in sooner.  I'll post pictures before doing anything.

 

Notice, I am feeling more positive about all of this  with each achievement where my OCD didn't cause a nose bleed!  haha.    After the return edges are cut from the thighs and butt plate I should be walking on air!  Bart

[BAZINGA[TK]]

On a roll today.  I went through the process of think about it for a week then do it and be amazed how much more quickly it went then the hours I allotted for it.  I think this is exactly what you guys are telling me the top of the thighs should end up as.  I have to sand of course and finish rounding off the top pointed part.  I cut half of one thigh to remove the return edge.  Hope it is right as it can't go back on.  Not nearly as bad to do as my brain made it out to be (assuming I did it correctly).

 

Bart

 

 

 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

On 12/7/2022 at 3:02 AM, justjoseph63 said:

Boiling water should not affect the snaps, but what I would be concerned about is the corner as shown below in the second photo.  When you bend ABS the stress has to go somewhere, and sharp angled corners (especially those with return edges) are where issues (cracks) begin.  Before making any adjustments I would remove the remaining small return edge (yellow line), being sure the the corner is rounded out somewhat.

I have a thread here which will give you a little more information on the subject, and looking forward to seeing the results!

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                 Example (screen used armor).

              

 

I now need to revisit this as I'm coming up on making these cuts.  I assume the entire return edge should be removed even through the yellow line on the  right side seems to indicate not that return edge.  I just need to be sure.  The back edge stays where it is to mate up with the kidney plate.  Correct?

 

Bart

[revlimiter[Staff]]

I would remove anything that comes back and points into my thigh. But that's not a rule or anything. It's just my own preference.

 

I'm about 95% sure you should have the cover strip as the center and the top of it should be flat. Instead of having the apex next to the point, just shave the longer thigh half down to match in height with the short one. It's not that much height lost. Unless someone more knowledgeable disagrees.

 

My AP thighs - pretty well flat at the top of the cover strip.

[BAZINGA[TK]]

19 minutes ago, revlimiter said:

I would remove anything that comes back and points into my thigh. But that's not a rule or anything. It's just my own preference.

 

I'm about 95% sure you should have the cover strip as the center and the top of it should be flat. Instead of having the apex next to the point, just shave the longer thigh half down to match in height with the short one. It's not that much height lost. Unless someone more knowledgeable disagrees.

 

My AP thighs - pretty well flat at the top of the cover strip.

 

That is likely easier to cut them your way over trying to round over a peak on them.   Seems you were approved that way!  Bart

[BAZINGA[TK]]

Does anyone have additional photos that illustrate the return edge trimming on the butt plate?  I can't determine if there should be some left on the vertical back part or if it should all be trimmed away.  TIA. Bart

[revlimiter[Staff]]

The top edge of the butt plate has the return bridge. It's the same width as the lower kidney return bridge.  No other return should be on there.

 

No return on the lower and side butt means less likely to crack when sitting thanks to no stress points. It's just flat plastic, so it bends very nicely.  You've still gotta be careful of that tab with the snaps as that's the most delicate spot.

[BAZINGA[TK]]

2 minutes ago, revlimiter said:

The top edge of the butt plate has the return bridge. It's the same width as the lower kidney return bridge.  No other return should be on there.

 

No return on the lower and side butt means less likely to crack when sitting thanks to no stress points. It's just flat plastic, so it bends very nicely.  You've still gotta be careful of that tab with the snaps as that's the most delicate spot.

Ok, I can see on this photo better.  I knew to keep the top.  Was not sure about that vertical part.  Rounding that inside corner may be a bit of a challenge too.  Basically I can use the same methodology as the thighs then.  Tape it to see and remove anything that curves into my butt?  I might be able to get through that on my own if I can use the scissors.  I feel less out of control with scissors over a dremel.  Bart

[BAZINGA[TK]]

I did some trimming on the butt plate to remove the return edge and take away the inside sharp corner.  I used a round file to round it so the cut would go into a curve then a drum sander to take it all to a .25" radius.  It doesn't come to a sharp corner anymore.  Do I need to further reduce it?  I think I could take 1/8 of an inch off the right side to give it more if needed.  I think is nice though and there is zero return edge left.  Bart

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Looks perfect, Bart!  

[BAZINGA[TK]]

Looking at the drop boxes.  The belt is riveted in place and I won't tackle removing it to adjust the elastic.  The back of the boxes are also riveted so not going to remove anything.  If anything can be done it will need to be done with non-invasive ideas.

 

I can add some glue to the backside of the box to make the pivot point the top of the box.  I think that is easy enough and fixes that problem.

 

 

This photo is the "natural" hang right now:

 

 

If it must come to the very end of the plastic part of the belt my only idea is to add a bit of glue under the belt itself to force the elastic over just as bit:

 

 

Are there other ideas or input on this?

 

Bart

[revlimiter[Staff]]

Rivets? Whoa. That's not common. 

 

The drop box looks perfect in that last shot. Maybe nothing to worry about at all. 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

4 minutes ago, revlimiter said:

Rivets? Whoa. That's not common. 

 

The drop box looks perfect in that last shot. Maybe nothing to worry about at all. 

The last shot is where I moved it to.  The middle shot is the natural position.  To keep it in the last shot position will require some idea,  Mine is to glue the elastic against the canvas.  I don't know if that is a good idea or will work, but limited options without taking it apart which is a hard no.

 

Bart

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You may want to remove the elastic then move over and re-glue, if you just pull over then glue it will probably come off over time due to being tight.

 

Should be at the end of the plastic belt

 

 

Yes this is the pivot I mentioned you would need to add some glue to, make sure you rough up the back of the drop boxes with sandpaper so it helps the glue to stick too

 

Still amazes me they used rivets without washers, but then again they were made for a movie not for a lifetime costume  

 

 

 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

I can apply the glue fix to the back of the boxes as that is easily done and accessible, but removing the elastic requires ripping up the rivet on the drop box at a minimum (I can't tell what is going on under the belt itself as that is permanently attached to the torso too) and that is beyond my abilities to fix.  If I could magically cut a notch in the elastic without removing it then that may work, but I don't have that power either.   Thus far glue is the only "fix" I can see but not a good fix.  Bart

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Perhaps post up a photo of behind the belt, so we can check for a solution

[BAZINGA[TK]]

That's a tough one to photograph.   I'd say it is trapped in the concave under which is a happy place for the elastic to sit because it can't move one way or the next and it wants to slide back into that hole left to its own devices.

 

Bart

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

There may be a snap or rivet through the elastic if that's were the belt is mounted to the armor, hard to say without seeing behind.

 

If it was me I would stretch the elastic, then cut, stretching it before cutting should give you enough length for it to be glued to the belt, you don't need a big area to glue to, E6000 holds pretty tight. You don't need the loop of elastic, it's not something needed for basic or higher level approval.

 

 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

It's not mounted there through the torso.  The rivet it under the cap.  That is for sure.  I had another idea to probe the space with a zip tie.  I put that up from top to bottom and slid it outwards.  There is something under it all that keeps the zip tie from moving past a certain point.

 

So, whatever the fix it is not going to be easier or maybe even desirable as it would all be done in the blind.

 

@ABS80 what can you tell us about what is under there to keep me from just sliding the whole loop to the outside edge further?  I can't see anything, just not the greatest way to probe with a plastic tie.

 

Bart

[ABS80]

The movie original had return edges on the upper thighs and butt plate ect... thats why I left them, its movie accurate and part of the design to create illusion of thickness. TBH its looks unfinished without return edge especially the upper thighs, I honestely didnt see a valid reason to remove the return edges in those areas   

 

Mark (AP)

Edited December 19, 2022 by ABS80