Daryl’s Denuo Novo FOTK build

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Very steady hands, well done

[daryldoak[TK]]

Left thigh turned out great.  Right thigh is glueing.

 

[Sly11[Admin]]

Excellent to see progress Daryl, nice work sir.

[daryldoak[TK]]

I remembered I had some smaller clamps that would work great for the biceps, so I borrowed some magnets from the thigh, while it was still curing, and I glued the biceps.

 

 

I also was trying to plan ahead and figure out how to best apply the gaffer’s tape behind the front shin pill holes, which are partially backed by the glue surface on the rear shin when they are overlapped (didn’t get a picture of this unfortunately).  So I decided to do a little cutout on the rear shin so I would be able to easily apply the gaffer’s tape.

 

Rear shin with cutout:

 

Final look (not glued yet):

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Can never have enough magnets, clamps or tape when you are on a roll  

 

 

[daryldoak[TK]]

I’ve really been struggling with how to handle the outer, elbow edge of the forearms, since I’m doing a TLJ build.

 

Denuo Novo cut instructions show this, which I believe is the TFA “Finn cut”:

 

This is a movie reference from FISD:

 

This is what is shown in the TLJ CRL:

 

So I tried to mimic that look on mine:

 

But you can see that the cut lines and the rough extra are visible.

The TLJ CRL mentions that the “TFA cut” is not permitted for level 3, so I assume the cut recommendation from DN would be sufficient for basic approval.

 

Thoughts?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

36 minutes ago, daryldoak said:

So I tried to mimic that look on mine:

 

But you can see that the cut lines and the rough extra are visible.

The TLJ CRL mentions that the “TFA cut” is not permitted for level 3, so I assume the cut recommendation from DN would be sufficient for basic approval.

 

Thoughts?

Unfortunately this rear area is based on the TFA Finn (or stunt), for some reason Anovos changed this from the Alpah/Beta/Charlie armor sets, if they left it the way it was they would have been fine.

 

You are correct on the curve for TLJ, the CRL image although updated still is not 100%, but best that was available at the time

 

You may be able to add some ABS paste, sand an polish to get rid of those trim lines. The other areas which will need ABS paste or filler will be you Ab/Kidney joins and also the Chest/Yoke connection. Many have used bondo for some of the join areas much like the A/B/C kits and paint the full kit, but others use ABS paste so they don't have to paint, just depends how clean you can make it.

 

For base approval it's entirely up to your GML, they may know there's a difference and pick on it but they may not, I'd suggest reaching out and asking their thoughts.

 

 

 

[Anzo[TK]]

Yay Darryl! I'm excited to have another FOTK here in CCG.

[daryldoak[TK]]

Biceps done glueing:

 

Onto the right shin:

[TheSwede[TK]]

18 hours ago, daryldoak said:

Thoughts?

I did the same and as Glen mentioned I covered the trim lines with ABS paste. 

[aero]

23 hours ago, TheSwede said:

I did the same and as Glen mentioned I covered the trim lines with ABS paste. 

How do you stop the ABS paste from Changing colour/yellowing. I've noticed the ABS paste colour never matches. It either darkens or goes a little yellower.

I use a glass airbrush bottle to store the paste and make sure I'm extra careful to keep it free from contaminants.

[TheSwede[TK]]

22 minutes ago, aero said:

How do you stop the ABS paste from Changing colour/yellowing. I've noticed the ABS paste colour never matches. It either darkens or goes a little yellower.

I use a glass airbrush bottle to store the paste and make sure I'm extra careful to keep it free from contaminants.

From my experience it comes down to the acetone used. I guess I just got lucky with a local supplier. I was going to smooth it out and used a different brand (smaller bottle and easier to use) and that turned the paste yellow so did some sanding and applied a new layer of paste and then only sanded/wet sanded and polished.

[aero]

14 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

From my experience it comes down to the acetone used. I guess I just got lucky with a local supplier. I was going to smooth it out and used a different brand (smaller bottle and easier to use) and that turned the paste yellow so did some sanding and applied a new layer of paste and then only sanded/wet sanded and polished.

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I'm on the hunt for new acetone.

[daryldoak[TK]]

All leg outer seams are glued:

 

 

I’m planning to use Velcro on the inner, overlapped seams.

 

Next is the ab side seams, starting with the right side:

Edited January 17, 2023 by daryldoak

[daryldoak[TK]]

So I did a test to see if I could just sand off the forearm trim lines, and be able to keep the proper TLJ shape (as described in a post I made above).  So I carefully sanded with some 80, followed by some 220, and the results look really promising:

 

 

After additional fine sanding, and then polishing, I think this is going to work great.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looks great, that should work nicely, well done

[daryldoak[TK]]

Ab glueing complete:

 

 

These seams are ready for abs paste.

 

Next up was the shoulder bell tabs:

 

Question: Anybody have tips on how much to overlap the inner chest and back?

[Sly11[Admin]]

Great work Daryl, the ABS paste is magic when you get the formula right, and has been the savior of hundreds over the years with OT armour shims.

You finish looks very clean, well done.

[DocDan[TK]]

23 hours ago, daryldoak said:

Ab glueing complete:

 

 

These seams are ready for abs paste.

 

Next up was the shoulder bell tabs:

 

Question: Anybody have tips on how much to overlap the inner chest and back?

@daryldoak The yoke looks pretty good with the overlap in your photo-you want a couple inches for strength AND for the side wings to be able to velcro to the back part of the yoke.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

 

You really want to try this on to make sure you don't make it too short, as it goes over your ab,  backplate and detonator plate.

[daryldoak[TK]]

Glueing the right forearm:

 

[daryldoak[TK]]

Right forearm glueing complete, left forearm glueing:

 

 

I also bought the supplies needed for the next phase of my build:

 

 

Acetone to make ABS paste.
White spray paint for the resin greeblies.
Various grit sandpapers for prepping the ABS surfaces.
Headlight polish for the final step of the seam hiding process.

[daryldoak[TK]]

Worked on getting the forearm polished up where I sanded off the trim lines.

 

I had already sanded with 80 and 320 to get rid of the lines.  Not a great picture, but here is where is was:

 

 

Today I sanded with 400, 1000, and 2000, then I remembered I have Novus scratch remover, so I polished with some Novus 3, followed by 2. 

 

 

I’m really happy with how this turned out.

 

 

This was practice for the rest of the seam removals.

Edited January 22, 2023 by daryldoak

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, looks great

[daryldoak[TK]]

Spats glueing: