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3d printed ANH E-11 build


Cheeseballs
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Can’t wait to see what you are able to do with this model. Someone just submitted one for Centurion approval, so the potential is there. Just take your time and enjoy the process. I am happy to help if you have any questions.

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Starting working on the base

Here's it before sanding:

Y0CV6JT.jpgs2gS4qP.jpgZFUYAY6.jpgCwIizbN.jpgiErY3Us.jpgNvdJBIF.jpgjOBcwEx.jpg

 

And here's it after 80 grit:

FRRBwgz.jpgVxuGIc0.jpgzBAkiFX.jpgWPerxrA.jpg

 

After 220 grit

RdLkS2S.jpgzJHkjk6.jpg

 

I accidentally cracked it somehow during sanding. Easy fix, I just used some super glue later and a little sanding.

LNjpkXW.jpgVAUGmSX.jpg

 

320 grit

gVt3hLd.jpgF0a2J4o.jpgqWhajts.jpg

 

400 grit

x4lxev3.jpgZIwMOxS.jpgxMFEt0h.jpgvzqdXHO.jpg

 

Got that done in a day, so maybe this build won't be as slow as I thought.

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Off to a good start, the never ending sanding, only downside to 3D printing ;) 

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Barrel sanded

Before:

C8iNNps.jpgXSdtpDQ.jpgMAzY39A.jpgQheWYXz.jpgBAaFLRD.jpg

 

After sanding

lRu6lJ6.jpgaq8klF3.jpgkkRpxXE.jpg

 

Just gotta pick out all the little plastic strands on the inside, then it'll be ready for filler primer along with the base.

 

Definitely going much faster than I thought, gonna have to change the title now lol. 

How do you change titles?

Edited by Cheeseballs
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2 minutes ago, Cheeseballs said:

Definitely going much faster than I thought, gonna have to change the title now lol. 

How do you change titles?

Top right corner of your first post there are three dots, click on that and a menu will open, select "edit" 

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  • Cheeseballs changed the title to Maybe too fast 3d printed ANH E-11 build

A couple of passes with a heat gun will make those strings disappear like magic. Not too much, though. PETG is very heat resistant, but it doesn’t take much to make the strings evaporate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Good luck on the build! Completed mine from trooper96 a month ago and I ABSOLUTELY love it! Be sure to go slow and support the weaker parts while sanding. Crazy glue was my best friend.

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  • Cheeseballs changed the title to 3d printed ANH E-11 build
34 minutes ago, Cheeseballs said:

So I was wondering, do y’all think I should sand the parts, put them together then primer and paint? Or sand, primer, paint then put them together? Thanks

The manual gives a suggested general order for paint, but I think I have a specific order of parts grouped by color somewhere. I’ll see if I can find it.

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Flat Black:

Barrel shaft (step 2)

Entire assembly (steps 1-6)

Trigger (step 7)

Trigger guard (step 7)

Selector switch (step 7)

Folding stock rod (step 8)

Folding stock catch (step 8)

Folding stock retainer (step 8 - top only)

Folding stock frame (step 9)

Folding stock pivot pins (step 10 - heads only)

End cap assembly (step 11 - it may be easier to paint the d-ring before assembling)

Charging handle (step 12)

Grip pin (step 13)

Magazine assembly (step 14)

Hengstler assembly (step 15)

Scope rail (step 18)

Power cylinders (step 20)

 

Gloss Black:

Grip (step 13)

 

Silver/Steel:

Fire control group housing (step 7)

Bolt (step 12)

Spring (step 12)

 

Gold/Brass (if you are weathering the scope, otherwise Flat Black):

Scope main body (HLW1, step 17)

Scope lens caps (HLW2 & HLW3, step 17)

 

I accidentally discovered that clear coat is a good sandable filler. Maybe because it's thin and maybe it kind of self-levels. Not really sure why it works, but I got a really smooth finish. This is really for something that has already been made reasonably smooth but maybe still has some minor imperfections. Let it fully dry and hit it with some fine sandpaper.

Edited by trooper96
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I added some putty to mine for some seams, especially front barrel shroud to receiver, that one definitely needs patching. I used paint+primer , then dulled it with another layer of flat top coat to deaden the texture.

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Sanded the whole thing with 320 then 400 grit again just to get it more smooth, and added spot putty to the seam.

 

cUYMyTo.jpglrsFsoa.jpgHYmhKc6.jpg

 

Then sanded the spot putty

jPSsMf0.jpgWmBeYxI.jpg

 

Sanded the front sight and other thingy that goes on the back idk what its called

Z4hvvS9.jpg

 

To sand in between the dip in the sights and under it I used a pen wrapped in sandpaper and a small brush also wrapped in sandpaper.

hCpdwRM.jpgccykd2o.jpgaxeBBk9.jpg

 

Then added both to the main body.

wQq0T2S.jpgcXEe76v.jpgpksBAvX.jpg

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10 hours ago, Cheeseballs said:

Then added both to the main body.

cXEe76v.jpg

 

I would putty those cracks on the main tube body, I did not and they do show slightly after paint. Regrets haha

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Added putty to the main body

4myD57L.jpg

 

And sanded the part that goes near the front and the part near the bolt. 

Before sanding

6P8jWvm.jpg

 

After sanding

sCgCkLp.jpgbfuflSS.jpg

 

During sanding I accidentally ripped off a few layers of print lines on one of them, but spot putty should fix that right up.

HjNOGs7.jpg

 

One question: those two pieces are identical right? they don't seem any different to me, so they should be interchangeable?

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Cheeseballs said:

Added putty to the main body

4myD57L.jpg

 

And sanded the part that goes near the front and the part near the bolt. 

Before sanding

6P8jWvm.jpg

 

After sanding

sCgCkLp.jpgbfuflSS.jpg

 

During sanding I accidentally ripped off a few layers of print lines on one of them, but spot putty should fix that right up.

HjNOGs7.jpg

 

One question: those two pieces are identical right? they don't seem any different to me, so they should be interchangeable?

 

 

They are identical.

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I find bondo (auto filler) to be a little more stronger than blade putty, I use it for larger fixes then finish with a thin coat of blade putty, really it's a personal choice how you fill and sand. Using spray putty also takes care of a lot of the smaller lines and imperfections 

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