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Getting started on a remnants incinerator


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Hi bud, just read the whole thread and took the plunge and purchased the 850AW kit + resin helmet. Jimmy's stuff is a little too small for me normally.
Great build, I hope to learn a lot from your experience and will be following, just got the files from Marko after some confusion :)

Edited by YIYO
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I am almost through with the 3D printing, it's pretty accurate. I assume he used the hot toy figurine for the fine details because you can't quite make out everything in the live action scene (you see quite a lot, but the finer stuff can only be guessed really).

 

The only issue is about the "air holes" (not sure how to call them) on piece F2, I am not convinced it's a match with the movie. The figurine seems to differ from what I see on screen, but again : it's a bit hard to make out such small details, even in 2K resolution.

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3 minutes ago, Startide said:

I am almost through with the 3D printing, it's pretty accurate. I assume he used the hot toy figurine for the fine details because you can't quite make out everything in the live action scene (you see quite a lot, but the finer stuff can only be guessed really).

 

The only issue is about the "air holes" (not sure how to call them) on piece F2, I am not convinced it's a match with the movie. The figurine seems to differ from what I see on screen, but again : it's a bit hard to make out such small details, even in 2K resolution.

Definitely, we have and are still seeing this as things are discovered. I am finishing the ICAT trooper at the moment, and have seen at least 3 different types of holster, from the series, Hot Toys, and other references. I bet that when the visual dictionary comes out in July, we will see yet another hahahahha

I love Marko's work, follow him on patreon, but missed he had made these files. 

Looking forward to your build, need to get my shocktrooper first :)

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I am terrible at making costumes, so it will take a while ;)

 

For marko's work everything looks good to me, appart from the above mentionned air holes. The backpack is a great match IMO.

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  • 2 months later...

@Yiyo I noticed you painted your gun with different colors for the nozzles, it looks all black to me in the reference pictures though. Where did you find about that silver part and satin black ?

 

Also : what black did you use for the gun itself ?

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Some pictures of the progress made, gun is still in two parts though, I am not sure how to proceed because the contact surface is limited and the gun is very front heavy.

 

https://imgur.com/a/xwJDDGn

 

RSiENQk.png

 

Credits to @stevechewbacca for helping and providing emotional support :P

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15 minutes ago, Startide said:

Some pictures of the progress made, gun is still in two parts though, I am not sure how to proceed because the contact surface is limited and the gun is very front heavy.

 

https://imgur.com/a/xwJDDGn

 

RSiENQk.png

 

Credits to @stevechewbacca for helping and providing emotional support :P

Always better if you use the direct link copy function so the images appear in your thread.

I have added the main image to your post :salute:

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8 hours ago, Startide said:

@Yiyo I noticed you painted your gun with different colors for the nozzles, it looks all black to me in the reference pictures though. Where did you find about that silver part and satin black ?

 

Also : what black did you use for the gun itself ?

 

Hi Romain!

 

TBH, the silver and satin black are only for those pieces, as I painted the silver, put the on, and painted the black. The rest will most likely be satin black, with brown woode handle gripa (like the T21 for example). The idea of this coloring comes from Marko's concept art for the 3D rendition, which looks great, and mixes some dark gray with black and some silver parts. As mentioned, I only painted these 2 pieces, awaiting CRL clearance first before I paint anything at all.

The black is a simple Montana Hardcore satin black.

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Posted (edited)

I have asked steve to model an extra supporting piece to connect the two halves of the gun. I have included an aluminium rod that goes from the stock to the "flash suppressor".

 

The extra piece features the same hole as the rest of the pieces, so it will sit nicely at the front.

 

https://imgur.com/a/f1Vnh5VhF7UrX9.png

Edited by Startide
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5 minutes ago, Startide said:

I have asked steve to model an extra supporting piece to connect the two halves of the gun. I have included an aluminium rod that goes from the stock to the "flash suppressor".

 

The extra piece features the same hole as the rest of the pieces, so it will sit nicely at the front.

 

https://imgur.com/a/f1Vnh5VhF7UrX9.png

 

Looks good, I just used superglue and unless I drop it, it holds on fine mate.
I will also add an aluminum rod :)

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6 minutes ago, Startide said:

I am intriged : how can you add one now that everything is stuck together ?

 

Not sure I understand, the hole goes from front to back, so I just need to cut to size, and put it in. I will actually leave a little visible so it looks like where the flame is coming from.

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Posted (edited)

So as I said I was working on a connecting piece to make the bond between both ends of the gun stronger. Steve was nice enough to model what I had in mind and here goes the result of his work :

 

 

1OF3QAR.jpg

 

Some more pictures here : https://imgur.com/a/HrwKyX4 I used a long aluminium rod (well a tube + a rod, because there was no rod big enough to fit).

 

And now I have primed the whole thing, it looks pretty crisp. It's not perfect I know, but it's a first for me so I am quite happy :)

 

Y2Eikla.jpg

 

 

Edited by Startide
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Looking good, hopefully it will be sturdy enough.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I can't wait to see this complete, it will be killer.  Haven't seen one in person yet and it's a totally boss TK version.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So a bit of progress was made, although at this point I am mostly waiting for the CRL and nicker updates because I have no idea how to put together the armor strapping :D

 

Anyway primed the helmet, it needs more sanding though. Also I bought some small drills for my dremel to cut through the nose, I am quite proud of myself because it's quite good looking

 

1a5v3bo.jpg

 

https://imgur.com/a/4HSaYnI

 

I also painted the flamethrower, only to see the printing lines show up quite badly, so I sanded again and put some modelling putty to fix this. It's pretty smooth now. Needs to be painted again.

 

Last but not least : bought some montana cans in black shock, white shock and Shock Kent Blood Red, with some dark undercoat it looks pretty good IMO.

 

 

Quick questions : I will have to paint the helmet white (obviously), then mask off the areas for the red painting. I plan on painting white first when I mask so that the paint fills the small gaps under the masking tape. Then I need to paint black, then red. How should I go about the weathering ?

 

Paintjob is missing some red, which visible white here and there. How can I achieve that considering I need a black layer betwee, my white and my red ?

 

 

Also : what should I use to topcoat all that paint ?

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I found using toothpaste in areas you want to look like chips and scratches works well, you can apply with toothpick, feathered brush or pretty much anything you want, one your top coat dries you can rub off the areas of paint with the toothpaste underneath with a slightly wet rag.

 

Others also use liquid latex or Vaseline.

 

Lots of how to's on YouTube 

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Mustard should work, you just won't get that minty fresh smell :laugh1:

 

The only issue I think with mustard is it leaving a yellow residue so a bit harder to remove.

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55 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Mustard should work, you just won't get that minty fresh smell :laugh1:

 

The only issue I think with mustard is it leaving a yellow residue so a bit harder to remove.

toothpaste will definitely work. I personally would hold off the specific paint colors (the red), until CRL is published, at least that is what I am doing. Just in case.

The los looks great, my 850 kit is awaiting at home when I get back from vacation :)

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