What have I gotten myself into?

[Zinfer[TK]]

Ok, so here's an issue I am having.  Firstly I probably need to source these rivets for the crotch area.  I've putzed with this before and everytime I do, the legs break, so I'm going to need to find a good supply of them.  But essentially my issue is, when tugged, the elastic tends to want to slip over the retaining rivet washer.  I mean I could try folding the material a few times, then a hole.  But has anyone come up with anything bulletproofing this area?  I've panicked a few times when I pulled this out at a troop to get suited and struggled to get it back on if even for just that one troop.  I'd like to fix this pronto somewhere in between my practically weekly troops!  

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

12 minutes ago, Zinfer said:

Ok, so here's an issue I am having.  Firstly I probably need to source these rivets for the crotch area.  I've putzed with this before and everytime I do, the legs break, so I'm going to need to find a good supply of them.  But essentially my issue is, when tugged, the elastic tends to want to slip over the retaining rivet washer.  I mean I could try folding the material a few times, then a hole.  But has anyone come up with anything bulletproofing this area?  I've panicked a few times when I pulled this out at a troop to get suited and struggled to get it back on if even for just that one troop.  I'd like to fix this pronto somewhere in between my practically weekly troops!  

There are a couple of different types of elastic, there is a thicker type/industrial, if not try to double over the elastic. Also when making the hole you can use a soldering iron, this will melt the edges of the hole, or you can add some E6000 first to the hole, leave to dry that add your rivet/snap.

 

These may also be of help

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

What I do to reinforce that area and others is to double** over the elastic about an inch over the area that you will be inserting the rivet in.  I then use CA glue (and lots of it) to fasten the overlap together.  The superglue dries quite hard, and should hold the snap without it tearing through.

 

 

** You can even triple it if you want to.

 

Hints:  

When gluing the elastic, be aware that it will seep through the elastic.  If it doesn't, you're not using enough.   I use wax paper to cover it while clamping it during the curing process.. usually just 5 minutes or so.

 

To make the hole for the rivet, use a soldering iron.  Trust me on this one.  It will stink something fierce so don't breathe it in but it will seal the edges and give you a nice round hole with no frayed edges or stray fibers.

 

If you can't find a local source for the rivets, I can shoot you some (no charge) if you pay the postage.  If interested, just PM me.

[Zinfer[TK]]

What are those rivets even called?  Specs on them?  I'd like to get a supply before I start on the cod.  Split Rivets?

 

Edited July 26, 2022 by Zinfer

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

4 hours ago, Zinfer said:

What are those rivets even called?  Specs on them?  I'd like to get a supply before I start on the cod.  Split Rivets?

 

This thread may be of help 

 

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

On 7/26/2022 at 2:48 PM, Zinfer said:

What are those rivets even called?  Specs on them?  I'd like to get a supply before I start on the cod.  Split Rivets?

 

Yep, those are split rivets, Rodney.  To find the correct size in most stores (Lowe's, Home Depot) etc. is VERY rare.  I order them 400 at a time from the manufacturer, but I don't think you'll need quite that many, lol.

 

Many ACE hardware stores carry them and allow you to purchase them individually, though.  There is an ACE in Lima (link here) and one in North Lima (link here).

 

BUT, be sure you are getting the correct size!  This is what you need:

 

 

Hope this helps!

[Zinfer[TK]]

I found them on Trooperbay, but $1 a piece with shipping another $10.  Picked up about 20 of them just to have on hand.  I replaced the strip and it's now like new and doing great with the doubled up and CA applied with Zap accelerator.    Thanks!

[Zinfer[TK]]

Out of curiosity, unsnapped the canvas belt.  Been a couple of years and through all the singeing of loose threads, I've got a few brown marks on it.  Was interested on the maintenance side  (and I've done some forum reading on this) if Oxi Clean would be a good thing to try on it.  I know it'll probably create more threads but was considering it with a brush.  Wondering if it's ok to just dip the entire belt into a water/oxi-clean solution with PVC plastic attached.  I rivetted the plastic to the canvas as the darned thing kept unsnapping and breaking loose with standard snaps.  Would there be a reaction between oxi-clean and the PVC?  Or should I try a squirt bottle and just try to hit the canvas portion alone?  My shoulder elastic bands are getting a little grody looking too but they are CA glued directly to the inside of the armor.  Wonder if Oxi would do well with those too.  Non soaked just applied and worked into it.

  

And yea I noticed my left butt plate is riding up over my kidney.  Maybet YET ANOTHER 4th V-Tab.

 

Edited August 1, 2022 by Zinfer

[Zinfer[TK]]

The Jury is still out on these V-Tabs. Seems to be effective for alignment but the stress point does cause some to break or work the E6000 loose. Added a 4th V-tab after a particular photo showed the left corner of the butt plate riding up over the kidney plate under the holster. One of these days I may just try the snap method. I like the lineage of OEM but...really not sure snaps would be any more effective (I'd probably then have a problem with all those glued on snaps coming loose or falling off and would probably also have to use CA on them). One step at a time. 

 

 

 

[TheRascalKing[TK]]

I've been using these, painted black, for a bit of cleaner look with the same effect, if it helps! I epoxy the posterior side in place and they've worked well. You'll find you have less cracking edges and a significantly better range of movement and better fitting suit if you ditch the brackets though.... Being able to have your chest plate overlap your ab when you lean forward alone is worth it.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07793L26V 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

5 hours ago, Zinfer said:

The Jury is still out on these V-Tabs. Seems to be effective for alignment but the stress point does cause some to break or work the E6000 loose. Added a 4th V-tab after a particular photo showed the left corner of the butt plate riding up over the kidney plate under the holster. One of these days I may just try the snap method. I like the lineage of OEM but...really not sure snaps would be any more effective (I'd probably then have a problem with all those glued on snaps coming loose or falling off and would probably also have to use CA on them). One step at a time. 

 

 

 

I've not seen that many V tabs used before, using one on either end is enough.

 

With regards to the original brackets some use these just for show, remove the elastic and add the snap/elastic system, seems to hold the armor together a bit better, could also be the elastic used, there are two types available, one is a lot stronger/thicker than the other. 

[Zinfer[TK]]

Any recommendations on that heavier material?  Hopefully a complete snap setup prefabbed.   I think the procedure with the snaps is CA glue if I'm not mistaken and to avoid the metal.  Heard horror stories of it deforming the exterior.   Going to look up a good snap thread.

Edited August 2, 2022 by Zinfer

[Zinfer[TK]]

22 hours ago, TheRascalKing said:

I've been using these, painted black, for a bit of cleaner look with the same effect, if it helps! I epoxy the posterior side in place and they've worked well. You'll find you have less cracking edges and a significantly better range of movement and better fitting suit if you ditch the brackets though.... Being able to have your chest plate overlap your ab when you lean forward alone is worth it.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07793L26V 

 

 

Those look alot more beefy than what I'm trying to bend and form.  Which is good because I've had breakage before.  A little pricey for just a dozen of them but I mainly only need them for the kidney/buttplate I spose.

[Zinfer[TK]]

If you'll pardon me, one more question; I hand washed the canvas belt with Oxi-Clean and it did a fabulous job.  The problem stemmed from all the singeing of threads.  Well - now more threads of course.  Is there a better way than using a lighter as it causes some stains on occasion.  I've found using a lighter has been practically the only way to get them all off troop after troop.

Edited August 2, 2022 by Zinfer

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

54 minutes ago, Zinfer said:

If you'll pardon me, one more question; I hand washed the canvas belt with Oxi-Clean and it did a fabulous job.  The problem stemmed from all the singeing of threads.  Well - now more threads of course.  Is there a better way than using a lighter as it causes some stains on occasion.  I've found using a lighter has been practically the only way to get them all off troop after troop.

I wonder if you might be able to hand-paint some sort of clear coat, or maybe even something like a CA glue onto the fraying portion tips to help firm them up and stop the continual fraying. Maybe even a white acrylic paint would work if you can find a color to match your canvas belt. I'm sure others may have ideas too, perhaps including stating that the screen-used belts had fraying and therefore you're simply getting more accurate. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Stop fraying thread 

 

[Zinfer[TK]]

Ok guys, so 3 years down the line I'm developing some substantial fracturing inner left thigh.  I think it's because the butt plate is crackalackin with the left thigh.  Maybe I need to expose more of my butt and remove some butt plate material?

At any rate I don't think I can repair this any further, just seems to be getting worse and worse by the year.  Be nice if I cold slice a 1/4 moon out of this and join an internal E6000 piece.  But for now I'm just using the cloth/cotton t-shirt soaked with superglue to reinforce internally and covered with gaffers tape.  I've talked with Rob of RS propmasters through Andrea to get a replacement LEFT INNER THIGH.  I don't want to have to go through ALL that awful rear mirror, straight line measuring front and back, so thinking use the old piece to pattern a new piece.  Thank God for E6000, seperate the old halves, use the pattern and reglue a new piece in place.  PVC plastic, not ABS.  Idealized TK Stunt.

Let me know your feelings.  I can't just half moon a repair on this right?  I think I'm approaching this problem the proper way, but let me know your thoughts.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I have used some sign plastic for another member but I used 5 minute epoxy glue, the issue with E6000 is it flexes and can let the crack split again.

 

You could also use fiberglass and matting which would also be very strong, if you go this way just watch how much hardener you use as it can create heat when curing.

 

Be careful looking at a replacement pieces, shades of white can change from run to run even from the same supplier, from different suppliers it can be like chalk and cheese.

 

I'm wondering how much gap you have between thighs and posterior, you may be better trimming a little off the top of the thighs, do you have any kitted up rear photos?

[dblcross[TK]]

On 7/27/2022 at 3:53 PM, justjoseph63 said:

 

Yep, those are split rivets, Rodney.  To find the correct size in most stores (Lowe's, Home Depot) etc. is VERY rare.  I order them 400 at a time from the manufacturer, but I don't think you'll need quite that many, lol.

 

Many ACE hardware stores carry them and allow you to purchase them individually, though.  There is an ACE in Lima (link here) and one in North Lima (link here).

 

BUT, be sure you are getting the correct size!  This is what you need:

 

 

Hope this helps!

Tandy Leather also has them.

[Zinfer[TK]]

On 7/25/2025 at 4:54 AM, dblcross said:

Tandy Leather also has them.

dblcross I think you responded in the wrong thread.  Yea the split rivet goes on the side that hard fastens to the cod section.  The button snap secures to an S-spring socket snap.  Andrea told me that RS Propmasters is 12-13mm.  I'm going to try ordering 12mm and see if that fits, I just want to replace the elastic strap, which means replacing both the split rivet and S-spring snap but not sure the exact size of the S-spring snap on the butt plate portion. (hope you follow me on that)

[Zinfer[TK]]

On 7/24/2025 at 7:36 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

I have used some sign plastic for another member but I used 5 minute epoxy glue, the issue with E6000 is it flexes and can let the crack split again.

 

You could also use fiberglass and matting which would also be very strong, if you go this way just watch how much hardener you use as it can create heat when curing.

 

Be careful looking at a replacement pieces, shades of white can change from run to run even from the same supplier, from different suppliers it can be like chalk and cheese.

 

I'm wondering how much gap you have between thighs and posterior, you may be better trimming a little off the top of the thighs, do you have any kitted up rear photos?

 

Right I agree with where you're going.  I do believe this is from walking.  The klick-klacking around is the edge of the inner left thigh riding up over the lip of the butt plate, which stresses the plastic, leading to those fractures.  Surprisingly all appears fine on the right, but I should take a closer look at it.  I have felt the piece making contact with the butt plate while walking.