CableGuy's DoopyDoos (feat. T-Jay kit) ANH E-11 WIP

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Shouldn't be that hot, warm it enough to flex not melt it.  I'd probably just chance it with my fingers, then moan they got burnt!

Cheers, Chris. I’ll double check the size then give that a go. :-)


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[Dracotrooper]

1 hour ago, CableGuy said:

...I have a heat gun. Any tips? What’s best to hold the plastic with without damaging the strip? Pliers? :-)

I tackled this on a previous post; feel free to take a look if you wish. Yes, I used pliers

[CableGuy[Admin]]

I tackled this on a previous post; feel free to take a look if you wish. Yes, I used pliers

Cheers Jesse. 6.2mm sounds good. :-)


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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Morning all.

Following my previous, slightly uninspiring post, I had a much more productive 20 minutes before work today.

Btw, thanks for the tips and hints following the last post. :-)

So, trimmed the clearing strip down to just over 6mm. Much neater.
In that note, I’d like to highlight another small, but I feel effective, mod. I really wanted the clearing strip to appear like it is separate from the body. As such, I needed it to sit ‘under’ the ejection port hole, not shaped and touching the port hole. So, after doing the usual mod of using a modelling tool (scraper of sorts) to give more definition, I used my smallest drill bit (1mm I think) to clear enough room to fit the strip.



This now allows the strip to tuck under the body and appear to be separate, as if connected to the bolt only.


So, with the clearing strip cut to size, I positioned it. It is not yet glued, just wedged into the gaps I mentioned above. (I’ll refine the shape of the strip a little later).

I then moved on the to the inner bolt strip. As I mentioned before, I’m using MDF for this part.
As the piece I’d cut was a little shallow, I padded it out with some left over 1mm ABS. In the pics, there is one piece of 1mm - that was still a little too shallow so I double it.

I used super glue to attach the abs to the MDF, then sanded both to the desired size. To match the appearance of the curved bolt, I sanded the top edge of the MDF to show a slight curve.



I then marked a nice, straight line with a junior hacksaw, then started to file away down to a 1mm depth, approx.

Only the top part done for now, but I’m really pleased with how it’s looking so far.



As always, more to come. :-)


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Edited November 3, 2017 by CableGuy

[Dracotrooper]

Looking good Dan! Your inner bolt strip is looking great so far; I have again been inspired by your advanced work, based on my local time  Nice innovative work on the clearing strip, you've now shown that indeed, it clears the bolt window like a real sterling  

[CableGuy[Admin]]

1 hour ago, Dracotrooper said:

Looking good Dan! Your inner bolt strip is looking great so far; I have again been inspired by your advanced work, based on my local time  Nice innovative work on the clearing strip, you've now shown that indeed, it clears the bolt window like a real sterling  

 

Cheers, Jesse. Looking forward to getting a few more bits done over the next few nights. Notably the counter and cylinders. 

 

It's quite funny - I used to own one of the limited edition Master Replicas E-11 blasters. At the time, I thought it was the bees knees. Doing this project has revealed how many little details the screen used blasters had compared with some of the copies. Although the self-build option is time consuming, I'm really pleased I took on the challenge. :-)

Edited November 3, 2017 by CableGuy

[Dracotrooper]

1 hour ago, CableGuy said:

Cheers, Jesse. Looking forward to getting a few more bits done over the next few nights. Notably the counter and cylinders. It's quite funny - I used to own one of the limited edition Master Replicas E-11 blasters. At the time, I thought it was the bees knees. Doing this project has revealed how many little details the screen used blasters had compared with some of the copies. Although the self-build option is time consuming, I'm really pleased I took on the challenge. :-)

Great to know what's to come. I especially want to see how you go about the power cylinders - there's allot of mod that can be done here.

 

Yeah, I'm in the same boat. I'm having a great time getting at the details as you are. Like you and others know, so rewarding to see the end results.

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hi all,

So, I’ve just finished playing with my power cylinders.
Let me start by saying, I’ve used Tino’s work as a guide but I’ve not followed it exactly. So, I know it’s not completely accurate, however it’s a big step up on the Doopy’s part as it was.

I had the red wire from Tino’s kit, but needed something to ‘plug’ them into (under the rear of the cylinders). So, I decided to use a straw - yes, a drinking straw. I decided to fill it with green stuff and then plug the wire into the soft green stuff.





I used a lighter to slightly singe the ends of the red wire fabric to stop them fraying too much. The parts touching the central capacitors are superglued in place.

To add shape to the wire, I used the thin, copper wire that was inside the main wire (that I’d stripped out previously), twisted it together and inserted it back into the wire where needed.




Before and after.



Hopefully once all painted up it should look super. :-)


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[T-Jay[TK]]

Very nice work on your power cylinders. Although you have already finished the details, it is not yet too late to shape the backplate. Just pushing

For painting it makes sense to start with a brush, as spray paint does not properly cover the small areas in the center of this piece. Then finish with spray paint.

Edited November 6, 2017 by T-Jay

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Very nice work on your power cylinders. Although you have already finished the details, it is not yet too late to shape the backplate. Just pushing
For painting it makes sense to start with a brush, as spray paint does not properly cover the small areas in the center of this piece. Then finish with spray paint.

Thanks Tino. How did I miss that? What would I do without you? :-)
Thanks for the tip on the paint. I’ll do just that. :-)



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[Dracotrooper]

Nice work Dan - Your power cylinders are looking great!

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Nice work Dan - Your power cylinders are looking great!

Cheers Jesse. Slightly modded again since the last pics. ;-)


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[Bulldog44[TK]]

Wire details on the back of the cylinders looks great. I struggled to get that look but you pulled it off. Yes, Tino’s suggestion to reshape the backplate is a must and glad you tackle that. It would be a waste to leave it as it is with all the effort put in so far.

 

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Evening all,

I might be a little extra excited about this post.

Firstly, I was inspired by another thread (no names, Jesse) to remove and reshape my end cap clip. Neater, rounded edges.




Next, the end cap. I marked out the center line and outer perimeter. I couldn’t really find a better tool than the one pictured, however this required quite a steady hand.
Essentially, I kept the Dremel static and rotated the end cap, using this Dremel piece like a router.



It came out well and the parts are now curing (E-6000 glue).


Now, this part required some bravery. I added the LED to the mag clip, then hand drew the “OFF ->”. I very carefully used the Dremel to engrave the letters.
I’m surprisingly happy with the end result, which should hopefully show up a little better once painted.




Now for a few pics with some of the parts in place. *Note some progress to the Hengstler, and further shaping (thanks, Tino) to the power cylinders.







A very rewarding evening’s work. :-)



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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Wire details on the back of the cylinders looks great. I struggled to get that look but you pulled it off. Yes, Tino’s suggestion to reshape the backplate is a must and glad you tackle that. It would be a waste to leave it as it is with all the effort put in so far.
 

Many thanks, Brian. Hopefully the backplate looks a little better now. :-)


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[Dracotrooper]

1 hour ago, CableGuy said:

... Firstly, I was inspired by another thread (no names, Jesse) to remove and reshape my end cap clip. Neater, rounded edges ...
 

Glad I could inspire Dan. Terrific update as I was just contemplating on getting to the end cap next  haha, not one bit surprised to see you tackle the resin engraving the way you did, great job!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Wow, what an update! So many love and time is put into details these days.

Makes me sad to see some resin chipped off your magazine. If the repair with green stuff does not work here, I would suggest to build that top cap from scratch with a thin ABS sheet. An iron could be used to round those three sides and you could slide it over the resin piece. Does that make any sense?

Once your build is completed, that exact area of your magazine becomes the weak spot when putting your blaster on a table. Not sure if green stuff will stand this...

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Wow, what an update! So many love and time is put into details these days.
Makes me sad to see some resin chipped off your magazine. If the repair with green stuff does not work here, I would suggest to build that top cap from scratch with a thin ABS sheet. An iron could be used to round those three sides and you could slide it over the resin piece. Does that make any sense?
Once your build is completed, that exact area of your magazine becomes the weak spot when putting your blaster on a table. Not sure if green stuff will stand this...

Thanks, Tino. I only noticed the chip this morning when I looked back at the photos. I attempted a greenstuff fix this morning but take on board your tip about this being a weak spot.



Might look at the top cap mod or even a new, more accurate magazine altogether. :-)


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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hi all,

I had the relatively simple task of fitting the guards today. Didn’t really get into much else.





Apart from the following, am I missing any other jobs before I paint?

• fit marker pen inside inner bolt
• magnets for magazine (is this recommended for a “trooping” blaster - tempted to superglue it)
• fit trigger and trigger guard once painted

Based on the pics in post #164, anything I’ve missed?

Cheers,
Dan


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[Dracotrooper]

Just a few things I noticed friend to consider; please take with a grain of salt. Some mod possibilities:

 

Extractor and Plunger addition, Mag clip addition, Hengstler Counter reset button, and removal of excess resin at the Hengstler socket grill. Also, soldering pins on the electrical connector block.

 

Oh, and I see only three of the five scope screws installed.

 

Edited November 7, 2017 by Dracotrooper

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Just a few things I noticed friend to consider; please take with a grain of salt. Some mod possibilities:
 
Extractor and Plunger addition, Mag clip addition, Hengstler Counter reset button, and removal of excess resin at the Hengstler socket grill. Also, soldering pins on the electrical connector block.
 
Oh, and I see only three of the five scope screws installed.
 

Excellent, thanks Jesse. I’m really pleased to hear that the to-do list is so short! I can’t believe I’m nearly ready to paint - and once painted I can finally submit for 501st clearance!!! Arrggghhh. ;-)

I’ll certainly work on the socket grills, plus adding the two pins. I’ve noticed that the Doopy’s is also missing the ‘slots’ or channels on the underside front of the counter. I’ll add these, also.

Recognise my reference Hengstler? ;-)


I’ve been chatting with another builder who kindly offered to send me a new mag casing and mag clip. Hopefully can add those into the mix.

I have the 4th and 5th screws for the scope. They are a little loose so I’ll be adding a little green stuff to their screw holes before I paint. :-)

Here’s an early shot when I first fitted them.


Not decided if I’ll carry out the extractor/plunger mod or the counter reset as yet.

I really appreciate your feedback, Jesse. Now, when your next update so we have something to drool over? :-)



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[CableGuy[Admin]]

No time to waste. ;-)

 

 

 

Not finished yet, but a good start. After looking at Jesse’s counter (left), I also drilled out the little hole above the screw, then started to flatten the little ledge above the slots. :-)

 

 

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[T-Jay[TK]]

15 hours ago, CableGuy said:

(...)   • magnets for magazine (is this recommended for a “trooping” blaster - tempted to superglue it)    (...)

There is pro and con to both options. A person with a small blaster bag will most likely prefer the magnets and being able to remove the magazine for transport purpose.

On the other hand a superglued magazine is much more stable.

Half a year ago I joined a troop with my first blaster (superglued magazine). While turning around, I accidentially hit something next to me and knocked off my magazine. Super glue was required to fix this. If I had used my other blaster that day (with magnets) it would have been much easier. Just pick the option that suits best for you.

[Dracotrooper]

11 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Excellent, thanks Jesse. I’m really pleased to hear that the to-do list is so short! I can’t believe I’m nearly ready to paint - and once painted I can finally submit for 501st clearance!!! Arrggghhh. ;-) I’ll certainly work on the socket grills, plus adding the two pins. I’ve noticed that the Doopy’s is also missing the ‘slots’ or channels on the underside front of the counter. I’ll add these, also. Recognise my reference Hengstler? ;-) I’ve been chatting with another builder who kindly offered to send me a new mag casing and mag clip. Hopefully can add those into the mix. I have the 4th and 5th screws for the scope. They are a little loose so I’ll be adding a little green stuff to their screw holes before I paint. :-) Here’s an early shot when I first fitted them. Not decided if I’ll carry out the extractor/plunger mod or the counter reset as yet. I really appreciate your feedback, Jesse. Now, when your next update so we have something to drool over? :-)

I can feel your excitement! - glad I can help you along your journey this way Dan  haha, I will stay the course regarding my posts, thanks!

8 hours ago, CableGuy said:

No time to waste. ;-) Not finished yet, but a good start. After looking at Jesse’s counter (left), I also drilled out the little hole above the screw, then started to flatten the little ledge above the slots. :-)

Wow! You're really getting your Hengstler Counter to pop! With the hard edges incorporated; its looking nothing like the original, superb attention to detail

[CableGuy[Admin]]

There is pro and con to both options. A person with a small blaster bag will most likely prefer the magnets and being able to remove the magazine for transport purpose.

On the other hand a superglued magazine is much more stable.

Half a year ago I joined a troop with my first blaster (superglued magazine). While turning around, I accidentially hit something next to me and knocked off my magazine. Super glue was required to fix this. If I had used my other blaster that day (with magnets) it would have been much easier. Just pick the option that suits best for you.

 

Thanks, Tino. I think I’ll go with the magnets and see how it goes.

Also, I’ve messaged Steve (gazmosis) regarding his upgraded mag, although it looks like his sales thread has closed. Can’t see much activity so not sure if he’s still producing them. :-(

 

 

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