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CableGuy's DoopyDoos (feat. T-Jay kit) ANH E-11 WIP


CableGuy

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A little tweak to the underside of the counter. Went a little too far with my Dremel, so another greenstuff repair.
Not strictly accurate in comparison to an original, but, again, an improvement on the standard DD. :-)

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Evening all,

 

Did a few of the final pieces tonight. I started with the “marker pen” inner bolt mod.

 

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Then moved on to the pins on the counter. I used pin and spade connectors, cut down to size with the Dremel.

 

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Next up, a part I wasn’t really planning on doing, however I’m really pleased I have now.

I used a piece of ABS cover strip from my armour build for the counter reset button.

Marked up for drilling - ended up drilling out through the bottom of the counter...doh. Also, managed to snap off half of my drill bit IN the counter and couldn’t get it out; hence the weird shape of my ABS reset button.

 

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After studying the real counters a little more, I noticed the little gap under the pins - used a junior hacksaw to add the little gap.

 

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In amongst all of the above, I also improved the areas where the T-tracks meet the barrel.

 

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Mag repair also sanded down.

 

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Thanks world. Painting next!!!!! :-)

 

 

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Evening everyone.

So; when I said I was ready for painting, I lied. ;-)

Washed all of the pieces today, then realised I could do with filling a couple of gaps with greenstuff (excellent tip keeping tools and fingers wet - thanks Tino).
Also had to work out the magnets for the mag.

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For the mag, I decided to use some more leftover 1.5mm abs from my armour build. Quite self-explanatory from the pics, but basically cut a piece of ABS to fit in the mag, superglued 3 of my 5 magnets to the back. Then greenstuff to fill the gap.(will sand when dry).

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I’m hoping to start priming tomorrow night. :-)



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5 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

Hi all,

Looks like I'll be sticking with my Doopy's magazine for now - sadly, Steve (gazmosis) is no longer making them. :-(

 

Dan

I think ShearTech or Imperial Warfighters may do them, if not sounds like there's an opening for a new maker and I may need a sterling mag lol

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Just now, themaninthesuitcase said:

I think ShearTech or Imperial Warfighters may do them, if not sounds like there's an opening for a new maker and I may need a sterling mag lol

Cheers, Chris. You need a new one? Did your take a tumble?

 

I've spoken with Mark (ShearTech) and the ones he makes/made he said where specific to Rogue One. I'll contact IW and see if he sells them separately. 

 

I've also read good things about SWPropMan on ebay. Lots of very impressive parts available there. :-) 

 

Cheers,

Dan :-)

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4 minutes ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

No I have one, but if no ones making them I could buy a Mag (a real one) and make with the hacksaw and silicone.

 

Haha, got ya. ;-) Could you 3D print a suitable part?

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2 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

 

Haha, got ya. ;-) Could you 3D print a suitable part?

Yes, but it wouldn't look good unless you use a resin printer (IMO) as there's too many small thin areas.

I think I used the sight front from this one on mine before I modeled my own https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:868160 Might be worth a go if you have access to a printer.

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We have lift off! (Well, lids off)

With the help of some old coat hangers as hooks, and a paint roller handle hanging from the ceiling, painting has begun.

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FYI, this Humbrol 150ml primer only lasted for spraying the parts that you see.

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Painting is really bringing out some of the details - and any bad craftsmanship on my part. ;-)

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As always, more to come. :-)


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Dude, I used a can a half of the big primers from Halfords. That toy sized one is no bueno.

Lol - yep, I found that out the hard way. ;-)

I used the Halfords primer for my old SDS lid - I’d say this Humbrol primer is a smoother finish. :-)


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Excited for you! Seeing primer on top of the resin / green stuff is long time coming. Great progress! I forget how you constructed the workable mag button - did you use a centre rod that needs to be replaced / added? Curious how the button came out. A relatively minor hangup

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NOW the funny part begins :D

 

Indeed the primer reveals all weak spots. If you mind, you can use a filler before adding the final paint. Skip that step if you go for a strutured surface, as the paint will then surely cover this.

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1 hour ago, Dracotrooper said:

Excited for you! Seeing primer on top of the resin / green stuff is long time coming. Great progress! I forget how you constructed the workable mag button - did you use a centre rod that needs to be replaced / added? Curious how the button came out. A relatively minor hangup

 

Cheers Jesse. Yes, it's exciting to finally start the painting stage. :-)

 

Essentially for my mag release button (assuming you mean the one on the magazine housing), I added a cut down bolt into the button, drilled a 10mm hole in the mag housing, and used a spring to give it functionality. More details here: 

 

Once painted, I will glue to spring, not the bolt, into the mag housing, allowing it to push and release. 

 

19 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

NOW the funny part begins :D

 

Indeed the primer reveals all weak spots. If you mind, you can use a filler before adding the final paint. Skip that step if you go for a strutured surface, as the paint will then surely cover this.

 

Thanks, Tino. In the grand scheme of things, the minor blemishes are not enough to really bug me - especially with the multiple coats yet to come, (as you mentioned), and the light weathering that will follow. 

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I’m thinking of doing the t-tracks tonight. As the originals were plastic, i was thinking of the following in the hope to create a realistic look.

> Mask the area above, below and between the tracks.
> coat of gloss black
> top coat of Matt black


Poor visual representation of masking.
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After that, I can then carefully mask these off before applying metallic silver, then hammered black, to the barrel.


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If doing it this way, you will have double masking work.

Your last paint layer (stated above) is matt black - this also is the last paint layer for the whole blaster. Why not masking the tracks now, then paint metallic silver and hammered black, then unmask the T-tracks and spray the final matt black to everything? Just an idea but maybe I got your plan wrong...

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If doing it this way, you will have double masking work.
Your last paint layer (stated above) is matt black - this also is the last paint layer for the whole blaster. Why not masking the tracks now, then paint metallic silver and hammered black, then unmask the T-tracks and spray the final matt black to everything? Just an idea but maybe I got your plan wrong...

Great plan. So no need for the gloss coat on the t-tracks - excellent. :-)
Thanks, Tino. :-)


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If it was me I'd not mask them at all, paint everything.  Then finally I'd either hand paint them (which I did) or mask the blaster around them for spray.  Rather than masking the complex shape of the track mask the simple cylinder like you have above, but last.

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If it was me I'd not mask them at all, paint everything.  Then finally I'd either hand paint them (which I did) or mask the blaster around them for spray.  Rather than masking the complex shape of the track mask the simple cylinder like you have above, but last.

Cheers Chris. I’m keen to keep silver and hammer effect paint away from them really, for accuracy purposes. With the big grooves I added under the t-tracks, I’m hoping it’ll be quite easy to tuck he masking tape around and under. Fingers crossed.
:-)


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