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CableGuy's DoopyDoos (feat. T-Jay kit) ANH E-11 WIP


CableGuy

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Let's get some traction on this together shall we?

 

I've come across a posting by Lucas (ZeroRoom) back in 2011 with topic 'The Best Sterling Templates EVER!' I downloaded the PDF on the trigger group:

 

37157010012_9bfd3cf4d5_b.jpg

 

The length of the trigger guard, laid out and flat is 105mm long and discussions say the width is between 11 and 13mm. Perhaps we can gauge a workable width by measuring the width of our Doopydoos 'ports' (for lack of a better word), that take in the trigger guard ends?

 

Discussions say dimensions are not off of a British Sterling, but I gather the measurements are still suitable.

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Let's get some traction on this together shall we?
 
I've come across a posting by Lucas (ZeroRoom) back in 2011 with topic 'The Best Sterling Templates EVER!' I downloaded the PDF on the trigger group:
 
37157010012_9bfd3cf4d5_b.jpg
 
The length of the trigger guard, laid out and flat is 105mm long and discussions say the width is between 11 and 13mm. Perhaps we can gauge a workable width by measuring the width of our Doopydoos 'ports' (for lack of a better word), that take in the trigger guard ends?
 
Discussions say dimensions are not off of a British Sterling, but I gather the measurements are still suitable.


Excellent find, Jesse. I have some aluminium, (approx 2mm thick), that came with Tino's kit that might do the job. It was intended for the scope rail but I ordered a pre-built rail as well, so this is going spare.
I think that should be okay.

I've not really worked with metal in this was before. Any tips for cutting? Hacksaw? Not sure how straight or tidy the edge would be with a hacksaw?




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2 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

Excellent find, Jesse. I have some aluminium, (approx 2mm thick), that came with Tino's kit that might do the job. It was intended for the scope rail but I ordered a pre-built rail as well, so this is going spare. I think that should be okay. I've not really worked with metal in this was before. Any tips for cutting? Hacksaw? Not sure how straight or tidy the edge would be with a hacksaw?

 

 

Funny you should relay this - I too have this spare aluminum part as I opted for the upcharge to get the finished scope rail with Tino's Completion set. Good to know it measures 2mm in thickness. Warning! Aluminum gets really hot, really fast! I found out the hard way when I initially attempted to cut to various sizes, the 5mm aluminum rod provided in the kit. The trigger guard is a much larger piece of aluminum and you want straight edges too, let alone a curved surface! I am thinking commissioning a fabricator to get it done for a few bucks is the safest way to go, and it also ensures for a quality piece. Yeah, I'm without the proper tools. Perhaps a solution can be suggested here...

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Funny you should relay this - I too have this spare aluminum part as I opted for the upcharge to get the finished scope rail with Tino's Completion set. Good to know it measures 2mm in thickness. Warning! Aluminum gets really hot, really fast! I found out the hard way when I initially attempted to cut to various sizes, the 5mm aluminum rod provided in the kit. The trigger guard is a much larger piece of aluminum and you want straight edges too, let alone a curved surface! I am thinking commissioning a fabricator to get it done for a few bucks is the safest way to go, and it also ensures for a quality piece. Yeah, I'm without the proper tools. Perhaps a solution can be suggested here...


Hehe, funny that. Great minds think alike. ;-)

Yeah, sounds possible. However, I'm not 100% sure of the aluminium thickness, so don't rely on me for that bit. ;-)
Thanks for the tips on the heat. I think I'll have a chat with my dad. He has pretty much every tool under the sun and is experienced with metal work. I'll keep you updated if I make progress. :-)


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Hi dan not sure what your plans are for this but this thread is worth reading over at the UKG if you've not seen it regarding the policy on lights and sounds. Must admit I wasn't aware of it until today, so I'm trying to bring it to new troopers attention.


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=30911&share_tid=66997&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eukgarrison%2Eco%2Euk%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D66997&share_type=t

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Hi dan not sure what your plans are for this but this thread is worth reading over at the UKG if you've not seen it regarding the policy on lights and sounds. Must admit I wasn't aware of it until today, so I'm trying to bring it to new troopers attention.


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=30911&share_tid=66997&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eukgarrison%2Eco%2Euk%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D66997&share_type=t



Hi Chris,
Can't get that link to work, however I'm not planning light or sound for this one. Was initially thinking of BlastFX but dropped that ideal a while back once I realised how long the standard build on its own would take me.
I'll try the link again later. :-)


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Hi dan not sure what your plans are for this but this thread is worth reading over at the UKG if you've not seen it regarding the policy on lights and sounds. Must admit I wasn't aware of it until today, so I'm trying to bring it to new troopers attention.


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=30911&share_tid=66997&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eukgarrison%2Eco%2Euk%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D66997&share_type=t


Ah, I don't have access to that part of the forum as I'm not cleared.
Do you think it'll affect my build?


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No, it won't affect your build. The UKG doesn't like lights or sounds, but that just means you don't use them when out with the UKG .  For your own entertainment , and for use with other costuming groups, you can do whatever you like with your blaster . Go for it I say ! 

Edited by Rob .T .
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11 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

Funny you should relay this - I too have this spare aluminum part as I opted for the upcharge to get the finished scope rail with Tino's Completion set. Good to know it measures 2mm in thickness. Warning! Aluminum gets really hot, really fast! I found out the hard way when I initially attempted to cut to various sizes, the 5mm aluminum rod provided in the kit. The trigger guard is a much larger piece of aluminum and you want straight edges too, let alone a curved surface! I am thinking commissioning a fabricator to get it done for a few bucks is the safest way to go, and it also ensures for a quality piece. Yeah, I'm without the proper tools. Perhaps a solution can be suggested here...

The self-made trigger guard in this link was built from exactly the same aluminum stripe (item #04 from the Completion Set). The 2mm thickness is sufficient and sturdy enough. It can be bent to shape with hands and pliars. A vice is also useful. In my case, I had to trimm the long side starting 12mm on the top end to 10mm for the lower end.

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The self-made trigger guard in this link was built from exactly the same aluminum stripe (item #04 from the Completion Set). The 2mm thickness is sufficient and sturdy enough. It can be bent to shape with hands and pliars. A vice is also useful. In my case, I had to trimm the long side starting 12mm on the top end to 10mm for the lower end.

Excellent - thanks Tino.
May I ask what you used to cut it, please?


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11 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Hi Chris,
Can't get that link to work, however I'm not planning light or sound for this one. Was initially thinking of BlastFX but dropped that ideal a while back once I realised how long the standard build on its own would take me.
I'll try the link again later. :-)


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Rob pretty much covered it but the tl;dr is as lights and sounds weren't seen on screen they will not be allowed on a troop.  They can be fitted but must be switched off when on a UKG troop.  Clear/see through scopes are fine though.  I'm trying to get the policy in the public sections as I wasn't aware it was the policy until last night so I am sure theres a lot who don't know.

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14 hours ago, Rob .T . said:

No, it won't affect your build. The UKG doesn't like lights or sounds, but that just means you don't use them when out with the UKG .  For your own entertainment , and for use with other costuming groups, you can do whatever you like with your blaster . Go for it I say ! 

Many thanks, Rob. Better to know now and spread the word to other prospective UKG folk. :-) 

 

5 hours ago, T-Jay said:

The self-made trigger guard in this link was built from exactly the same aluminum stripe (item #04 from the Completion Set). The 2mm thickness is sufficient and sturdy enough. It can be bent to shape with hands and pliars. A vice is also useful. In my case, I had to trimm the long side starting 12mm on the top end to 10mm for the lower end.

Yowza - is there anything that you haven't done during an E-11 build! ;):th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

Seriously though, thank you for the tips. I think a more substantial trigger guard will be a good upgrade.  

 

 

4 hours ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

 

Rob pretty much covered it but the tl;dr is as lights and sounds weren't seen on screen they will not be allowed on a troop.  They can be fitted but must be switched off when on a UKG troop.  Clear/see through scopes are fine though.  I'm trying to get the policy in the public sections as I wasn't aware it was the policy until last night so I am sure theres a lot who don't know.

Cheers Chris. I'm planning on having the see-through scope so glad that should be okay. If I'm honest, I understand the point behind it. Whilst it's probably fun to "PEW PEW" at folks, I can see how it could detract from the realism. 

 

 

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Hi folks,

Made some decent progress this evening. I wanted to attach the grip before I carried on with the trigger.

cc214f723fe8edbb61f4c16e1127d31d.jpg

Sizing up, leaving the gap between the grip and the mount for the folding stock.
022c44d3904c6ff6dd4062d56cd0a633.jpg

(Cute touch - "Doopydoos" and a smiley face on the grip)
48effe8677917f8691b14bd523a0a57b.jpg

b8bb68eb73c612f18e0f4c6cbcce9204.jpg

43ab1c1c57c6fbbed68c6342bee30a6d.jpg

a9fbd9bde13a5e116360dc8b4223e006.jpg

b9861f613e4e372f3bd73dcd0be2bfd2.jpg

More to come. :-)




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Nice work Dan - your blaster is really taking shape now. Not sure what stage these photos are on your build but applying CA glue to go along with the bolts may go along way to ensure the grip piece remains attached to the receiver tube. I remember Tino saying somewhere that the glue provided in his completion set is good for resin to resin contact. =), my two cents, hope you're having as much fun as we the audience!

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Nice work Dan - your blaster is really taking shape now. Not sure what stage these photos are on your build but applying CA glue to go along with the bolts may go along way to ensure the grip piece remains attached to the receiver tube. I remember Tino saying somewhere that the glue provided in his completion set is good for resin to resin contact. =), my two cents, hope you're having as much fun as we the audience!

Cheers Jesse. I appreciate the feedback and advice. :-)
I'm currently in the "trial fitting" stage. I think I'm likely to glue quite near the end, once I know where and how everything fits together. Also, painting might be easier with separate parts - for metallic and plastic appearance.

And yes - I'm really enjoying it!! Just need more hours in the day. ;-)




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8 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

Cheers Jesse. I appreciate the feedback and advice. :-) I'm currently in the "trial fitting" stage. I think I'm likely to glue quite near the end, once I know where and how everything fits together. Also, painting might be easier with separate parts - for metallic and plastic appearance. And yes - I'm really enjoying it!! Just need more hours in the day. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahh dude :jc_doublethumbup: that's exactly my approach as well - so funny our approaches are similar: pursue excellence with component pieces. I think I have similar blood to your part of the world as I align myself with Tino's build approach as well lol

Edited by Dracotrooper
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Hi all,

Booked an afternoon off work today and made some decent progress.

Here's some highlights:

 

 

Started by working on the rear sight as I really wanted to test fit the scope rail.

21ea5ecbd126fb8625ea72d98bf24f59.jpg

 

 

Decided I wanted to screw the rear sight to the barrel, so cleared a space inside to allow the screw head to hide under the scope rail.

 

4542dd7fabf623f6cd2b2ddc0d113843.jpg

 

Test run with scope before drilling into the body.

deca644a72d27090015716180f1c2aee.jpg

 

 

caa13b2931dc83feade87c710f859b56.jpg

 

42c7a333c6b5812ba794b0e65da82882.jpg

 

682e2ee40c978c805b45f2735c07ab9d.jpg

 

e841a491a78ce768035170b2349b7c58.jpg

 

41b40247a63e146fb2f2babd78ddde4b.jpg

 

 

Then moved on to the magazine housing. Quite a simple fitting there.

b693872af6abd172202a8bf16708f63a.jpg

 

 

Started preparing the scope for attaching to the rail. Lucky I double checked where to drill - the mounts on the bottom of the scope aren't quite central.

89079ce51df41f9216b0504d44362648.jpg

 

 

And that brings us up to date.

8b13eed502080a43d75bc2e864b75f45.jpg

 

1f873c616a418187b2f4e1e142873d93.jpg

 

676bd92d8f11e7acef4e7d48ff97423f.jpg

 

06db19e6c3d5775f2152e7a24fcf7c2b.jpg

 

9f28c766d8f6c7ab4dacca1d1c3991e7.jpg

 

 

On to something that didn't quite work. How does one bend aluminium without it snapping?

 

964d50bd0d4cc25e30edc9d5a3665d3b.jpg

 

d98c4f011dc51484c133142061782e06.jpg

 

Any tips on shaping, too?

 

 

Many thanks,

Dan :-)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Aluminium doesn’t like to bend tight angles. I cheated by cutting a groove in the “elbow” of the bend with a hack saw. The wider the grove the sharper the angle you can do. If I recall a grove half way through about 1.5-2mm wide will be enough for a 90° bend, but have a look on my WIP as I am sure I documented it there.

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oooh, your blaster is looking more fine as each day progresses Dan! I like your measure twice, cut once approach. It's unfortunate about the trigger guard mishap but you still have plenty of aluminum for a second go. I will also need to study Chris's documentation on how he successfully bend aluminum.

Edited by Dracotrooper
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Evening all.

Only small progress this evening.

Removed the resin screws (lumps) from the muzzle, drilled new holes and installed the hex screws.

 

 

If anyone is thinking, "which Dremel tools would be good for this project", this one is great. :-)

 

5aa7276e0cd652b4e6fa241e921a7bda.jpg

 

 

Lumps before:

7fd8d412b256517e0e3085e4710ef6e8.jpg

 

 

3f1165e3d2537a63126c6a4f70d2dc16.jpg

 

3747ae6d78394cd98a668318750678ec.jpg

 

5d873c8a052810532f2381c7b58e335d.jpg

 

71f601da51a06e6db7b779a4f93179a7.jpg

 

76a7a1f81d5210593085ea66c9e68f6e.jpg

 

Fun times. :-)

 

 

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