SheaJeff[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 I'm at the point where I am beginning to mount items inside the helmet, and am not sure of the best method. I've mounted the welding shield using the ear screws, and the head padding with Velcro strips. What's the best way to hold the screen and the electronics inside the helmet? (fans, ROM/FX and mic, Ukswrath's hearing assist) I've seen mention of gaffers tape, but read on Amazon that it's meant to be temporary. Is Velcro a better option? Is there something else I should be using? Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T K[501st] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 I've been using velcro. I am still working on where to put the wiring. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humperdingle Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Yep, velcro (industrial strength / heavy duty) works well. I find using the fuzzy side works best at adhering to the curves of a stormtrooper helmet. Let it adhere to surface for 24 hours to help the bond. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgb1016[501st] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Industrial strength velcro works wonders! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 I think you'll find the vast majority of people use Velcro, as this thread would indicate so far. Some small items can be glued directly to the helmet with E6000, if they're semi-permanent. (brackets for fans, switches, etc.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheaJeff[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Thanks guys. Velcro makes it easier and saves me $18 on gaffers tape. I appreciate the help. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoSc0ut[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Industrial Velcro is the king! The better reason for fuzzy (or loop) side being on the inside of the helmet is that you don't want the hook side facing toward your skin or hair as it with scratch or grab you! It's not that it's painful, just annoying. I mention gaffers tape in some of my threads. It is more resistant to moisture than painters tape. I am using to test where I am thinking wires and such may go permanently. Like painters tape it doesn't leave residue when you pull it up, but it is spendy. It's also in my "Trooping emergency repair kit" and I just happened to have a roll left over from something else I used to do (volunteer stage hand). Jim - TK50899 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 What they say... Velcro 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strength Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) Velcro, and glue of the velcro doesn't hold. I've had a couple fans that seem to loosen their grip from the helmet itself. So I've used glue to help secure them in their place. For the large items are use velcro exclusively. It actually doesn't seem to cause any problems. When you can, talk to some of your fellow Garrison members and see if you can check their helmets as well. I did that before I even started building which gave me some great insight as to what to do with the helmet. Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk Edited July 13, 2016 by Strength 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68Brick[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Velcro, E6000, Ear stud screws, and I've used the studs from the mic tips to mount my fans. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 My recommendation: More Velcro!The red and black wires are for the Hovi-Speakers, as this photo was taken during the process of installing those. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheaJeff[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 I just got my ROM/FX and the optional AA battery pack but it holds 8! AA batteries. I'm. It sure Velcro will hold that kind of weight so I may have to move that to the chest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 I just got my ROM/FX and the optional AA battery pack but it holds 8! AA batteries. I'm. It sure Velcro will hold that kind of weight so I may have to move that to the chest. 8 AA Batteries??? Whoa... Mine (above) is clearly running off of one 9V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheaJeff[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 It normally runs off a 9V but you can replace it with the larger power pack if desired. My plan in the future is to switch everything to use 1 USB source. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheaJeff[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 What they say... Velcro Your helmet looks amazing inside. Do you have a build thread on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 It normally runs off a 9V but you can replace it with the larger power pack if desired. My plan in the future is to switch everything to use 1 USB source. USB power banks tend to be 5V, and too noisy to run circuitry because they use PWM to manage power in and out. Great for fans, not so much for these sensitive circuit boards, in most cases. (Ignoring the larger voltage issue) You may be able to use one of the larger laptop power banks, if you get one sized to fit in your backpiece, which often have higher voltages available, but be careful. It's been done (Ukswrath has a really cool setup), but no, the little power banks won't work for the Rom/FX, unfortunately. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheaJeff[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Wow! Good to know. Sounds like there is a lot more to the power supplies than I realized. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Wow! Good to know. Sounds like there is a lot more to the power supplies than I realized. Thanks.FWIW, the vast majority of users seem to just use a 9V battery. Simple and small, and lasts long enough to get through the longest troops you're likely to undertake. (note I don't know the exact battery life, but I haven't heard people complaining, so it can't be that bad) I agree with you, it sure would be nice if we could run everything off the cheap 5V power banks, though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 I found the sticky back Velcro does come loose, (it gets pretty hot here) so I use E6000 on normal velcro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheaJeff[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 I found the sticky back Velcro does come loose, (it gets pretty hot here) so I use E6000 on normal velcro Arg! I just read this after I spent time putting Velcro in the helmet Just using its regular adhesive backing. Oh well, when it starts to come loose I'll re-do it with E-6000. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheaJeff[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Hey, could somebody me please post a picture of the correct placement of the S rubber around the bottom rim of the helmet. Which part goes onto the helmet (wide or narrow)? Also, where does it stop/start? Front, back, doesn't matter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pewpewpew[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 What they say... Velcro That is beautiful! The inside of that bucket is nicer than the inside of some of the rooms of my house. Just.... Wow! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Hey, could somebody me please post a picture of the correct placement of the S rubber around the bottom rim of the helmet. Which part goes onto the helmet (wide or narrow)? Also, where does it stop/start? Front, back, doesn't matter? I found it stays better if you start behind the vocoder but some prefer the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Hey, could somebody me please post a picture of the correct placement of the S rubber around the bottom rim of the helmet. Which part goes onto the helmet (wide or narrow)? Also, where does it stop/start? Front, back, doesn't matter? I recommend starting and stopping under the vocoder. Here's mine, mid-wiring job: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) I found the sticky back Velcro does come loose, (it gets pretty hot here) so I use E6000 on normal velcro The adhesive on the industrial Velcro is decent, and will likely suffice for most. If it proves inadequate, though, the surest method is the non-adhesive Industrial Velco (sew-in kind) with E6000. Don't bother with E6000 on the self-adhesive Velcro, because the glue tries to bond with the adhesive, and fails. With the sew-in Velcro, the E6000 can soak into the cloth fibers and bond extremely well. Edited July 13, 2016 by kman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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