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It's definitely a thing!  I have a plan of attack now...will be cleaning up edges, cutting shim strips, and getting sludge ready...! 

Stripes, mesh behind the teeth, lenses, weather stripping on the bottom..!

Molds have safely landed

Shins:

 

DSC_9985_zpsxbq5qgfb.jpg

 

DSC_9987_zpsjbp1icnk.jpg

 

DSC_9983_zpsiwwbjndx.jpg

 

DSC_9984_zps0dzogffm.jpg

 

Got about halfway done with these before I saw how yellow they were coming out again.  I'll try to get individual parts pics in a more natural light so they don't look quite so cafe au lait. :blink:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Looking great Eric!  I've got some catching up to do! I have my armor all assembled and glued. Not yet filled and cleaned up though. I did get the helmet done this past weekend minus the decals and weathering. I'm going to try and get the armor seams filled and primed this weekend. 

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IMG_20170524_074900649_zps4nspnbib.jpg

 

IMG_20170524_074920682_zpshgie2dij.jpg

 

IMG_20170524_074936418_zpsl8uoqiof.jpg

 

IMG_20170524_074827746_zpsllbamsm6.jpg

 

TD%20Ref_zpsa8tfz4vi.png

 

I decided to make my own TD which I feel looks more like what's on the show.  I used an 8" piece of 2.5" ID PVC electrical conduit, and used it to trace two circles on a piece of thin circles out of a piece of sign material.  While the ends were still open, I drilled two holes and added two 1" 1/4-20 bolts with some washers on the inside and secured, threaded side sticking out.  I cut the sign material slightly larger than the circle and glued one circle to each end.  Once the glue has cured, I sanded down using a piece of 60-grit to get the nice sharp edges.  Hit it again with some higher grit sandpaper to remove any lines. 

 

Rinse, prime and paint!

 

Next up is the detail painting..!

 

Edit....maybe too big?

Edited by eqdizzle
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Comparing it to the pic it does look a smidge too larger but great outside of that. Have you heard anything from Walt about finishing the TD. Also, Ramey had the issue with the shins being about 4 inches too short as is. Jim spoke about remaking them but now selling it off to Walt, I wasn't sure on the status of the shins.

 

Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk

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Comparing it to the pic it does look a smidge too larger but great outside of that. Have you heard anything from Walt about finishing the TD. Also, Ramey had the issue with the shins being about 4 inches too short as is. Jim spoke about remaking them but now selling it off to Walt, I wasn't sure on the status of the shins.

 

Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk

 

I spoke to Walt on the phone a few weeks back.  He's wanting to set up a time to do a video chat to go over the parts and suggest changes.  There are more than a few with the original kit...!  It sounds like he is more than willing to make this kit easier for future builders and correct some of the alpha-stage issues, so I'm definitely excited about that.

 

I told him my idea for crafting the TD and drop boxes.  I'm thinking I'll be happier with self-built just to get the sharper lines. 

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Decided to rebuild the TD, so I figure I might as well document it a bit better.

 

3dTAvJM.jpg

 

7" section (this time) of the 2.5" electrical PVC (found at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc)  with 1" 1/4-20 flat head screws with 4-1/4" washers to space it.  Dabs of epoxy between each washer, then all over the top on the inside.  Allow to cure.

 

ZaWayVA.jpg

 

Threaded end sticking through

 

SCVpGi5.jpg

 

Trace the outside of each side on a thin piece of sign material.  The thinner the better!!

 

RaNA7dB.jpg

 

Cut OUTSIDE the lines.  Sand the inside of the cutout disc to allow better adhesion.

 

r5n7uDI.jpg

 

Apply a bead of CA glue to the rim of the PVC.  Apply the disc with the sanded side (I used the printed side) to the rim.  Flip and use the weight of the tube to create some pressure.  Let cure.  Repeat for the other side.

 

 

 

You should have a tight connection.

 

Next up we'll sand down the excess and prep for paint...!

Edited by eqdizzle
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rD1Kh6V.jpg

 

81OrEJx.jpg

 

 

hit it with 60-grit sand paper until the excess is gone and you have a nice, sharp edge.  Follow up with higher grit to sand away the scratch lines.  Wash, let dry, tape the bolt threads, and prime.

 

This time I'm going to do a gray underlayer using Satin Granite.  I'll be able to recoat a touch faster than with the white gloss, and I'll have less to tape by making a negative stencil.

Edited by eqdizzle
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QOSfA14.jpg

 

NjonVDW.jpg

 

iKZUOOd.jpg

 

ddVIMHZ.jpg

 

Tape removed, black outline added, and "buttons" painted.  I'll let this rest a bit before adding the weathering and sealant.

Edited by eqdizzle
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  • 1 month later...

2C6ZGKP.jpg?1

 

Upper body strapping.  Permanently attached on back, dual snaps on front.  A "V" made from two 1" webbing straps from the shoulder bridge to the bells.  2" webbing from the inside of the bicep to inside of the bell, E6000 permanently attached.  Cody for scale.

 

ebEqpLf.jpg

 

Shoulder bell padding.  Just enough to get the "float" visible in the animation.

 

OyWbkI6.jpg

 

closeup of 2" webbing from bicep to bell.  I tried snaps here first, but they kept failing.  This also makes the indents line up better and much more easily.l

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  • 2 months later...

u8EsKPG.jpg

 

Received the updated calves from Walt the other day and wanted to show a side by side for anyone who has the original version of the armor.  I was never able to get the original ones closed without pinching my legs.  The new ones are definitely longer and wider, and are a much sharper pull in the details.  These are in the prototype stage at the moment, so I'll be working out any kinks in building and report back to Walt to make the final versions as great as they can be.

 

These fit my legs without shimming, albeit in a tight manner.  I decided to add some shimming to give some "float" and make the rear trap stay closed even when moving.

 

First layer of sludge down on the shims, but I'll be working on these over the weekend and should be able to begin painting within the week or so..!

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lower legs are getting a thin bondo coat after a couple of layers of sludge and a lot of sanding.

 

But in the meantime...

 

QaPGRxn.jpg

 

Drop boxes and remade straps.

 

DHlppr9.jpg

 

Drop boxes are a piece of prime pine that was planed down to remove about 1/4" off the overall width.  This delivers the right sharpness of corners that I was looking for.  I hit the wood with a few layers of primer, followed by 0000 steel wool, followed by 2 more layers of primer, followed by more steel wool, followed by more primer until the wood grain all but disappears.

 

NldVSYh.jpg

 

straps are pieces of HIPS scrap that Walt sent with the legs.  These were heated with a heat gun and bent around a gallon can of paint to get them in position.  I also used some sandpaper to bevel the outside edges a bit to grab some detail shown on the references.

 

3DEVXdA.jpg

 

TuSpAM1.jpg

 

IMHO, Jim's were too long and too thick against the references.  On these, I'll be able to pencil in the details and get them to end and begin at the correct positions on the back and chest armors.

 

 

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