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It's definitely a thing!  I have a plan of attack now...will be cleaning up edges, cutting shim strips, and getting sludge ready...! 

Stripes, mesh behind the teeth, lenses, weather stripping on the bottom..!

Molds have safely landed

On 9/3/2016 at 1:16 PM, DasViGeorie said:

What's talons kit cost?

 

Send Walt a PM! :smiley-sw013:

 

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I got the flashing trimmed off the pieces this weekend using a Dremel with a sanding drum...just like butta!  After sizing up a few of the pieces,  I cut interior shims for a few of the pieces out of thin plastic sign material. 

 

  1.  Size up the shim to be the exact length to fit inside the edge of the armor piece.  It should end just at the beginning of the return edge, otherwise you'll have issues getting a flat and tight fit.
  2.  Scratch up the inside of the armor piece and the entire shim piece with 60 Grit (or other coarse grit) sandpaper to increase surface area for adhesion.  Wipe all surfaces with rubbing alcohol and let dry for a few minutes.
  3.  Test fit your shim again.  If good, proceed, if not, trim accordingly until you have a clean fit.
  4.  Spread CA glue liberally on one half of the shim.  Slide it into place to spread out the glue a bit, and hold in place with clamps. Leave about half of the edge exposed to be used as the join for the other half of the armor.
  5.  Let it cure for a while.  Work on another piece of armor!!

 

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Once you're ready to do the other side, check your shims to make sure that the entire piece is securely held on the armor.  If this is secure, proceed, otherwise spot glue and clamp until it is locked in place.  Make sure the other side is sanded on the gluing surface and wiped with rubbing alcohol.  Liberally glue the remaining shim surface and slide into place.  Clamp the top and bottom near the ends and hold the pieces together with some pressure using your fingers.  BE SURE TO MOVE YOUR HANDS OCCASIONALLY SO YOU DON'T GLUE YOURSELF TO THE ARMOR!!!

 

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Hold for a few minutes until this is set firmly.  Let it cure for a while longer, and come back to it.

 

Finally, test fit the other side.  If you hear popping when you bend it shut, use a heat gun (from the inside!!!) to soften the already joined shim before bending into place.  Repeat the steps above to finish gluing your shims.  Once this is cured, you're ready for SLUDGE!!

 

 

Edited by eqdizzle
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Exactly...cure time, strength of bond, a lot less noxious smell, ETC.  I used Zap-A-Gap CA glue and Zip Kicker on my Clone, and this is a similar build method. 

 

I hope to have some more time to work on this over the weekend...!

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A tiny bit of work today:

 

Did some sludging of joints today.  I like to start with Tape on either side of the joint so I can be messy, without being messy!!

 

 

 

Apply the sludge into the crevice

 

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And peel away the evidence that you weren't careful!!!  :duim:

 

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I also had to shim my biceps out a touch.  This will need to be filled to be smooth.

 

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Cutting a small strip of shim material (about same thickness of the armor), overhanging edges to create return edges.

 

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Scratch and CA glue, clamp and dry!

 

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Stay tuned!!!

Edited by eqdizzle
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Sanding the sludge and applying the finish putty.  And then more sanding!!

 

 

 

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Same thing on the left bicep

 

 

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Getting the ab ready to go.  Trying to get this sized first since everything else lays on top of it.  In looking at references, there is a notch line vertically where the segment ends, so I will be able to hide the connection and still be accurate.

 

 

 

Edited by eqdizzle
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  • 2 weeks later...

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Some painting over the weekend.  I started with WHITE primer so no other colors show through when the armor gets scratched.  This was followed up with two light coats of GLOSS WHITE.  I'll let this dry for some days, hit it with 0000 steel wool, and then get at least 2 more good coats over the top.  This armor needs a sheen to it to look right..!!

 

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Some work on the ammo belt portion of the right thigh.  Kind of a pain to get it lined up correctly.  This will need to be filled to look seamless by the time everything is done.  Speaking of seamless...

 

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The primer will show off EVERY flaw in your work.  Back to sanding!!!  :blink:

Edited by eqdizzle
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  • 1 month later...

 

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I ended up re-sizing the forearms since they were REALLY big on my arms and didn't look like how the Rebs TKs wear theirs.  That led to the issue where the back end didn't line up correctly.  I added an inner shim and glued additional material on top to raise it to near the level of the original material.

 

 

continuing on the other arm

 

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Cutting down, starting with scissors, then to shaping with a dremel, and finish sanding.

 

Next step will be sludging and sanding to make seamless...!

Edited by eqdizzle
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Did some weathering on the chest and back.  Again, for those playing the home game, I used the following method:

 

***WAIT FOR YOUR GLOSS WHITE TO FULLY CURE (THE LONGER THE BETTER!!) BEFORE WEATHERING!!**

 

  1. spritz the armor with a gloss gray (I used Rustoleum Smoke Grey) from 3-4', hitting un-evenly.  Use short, less-than-a-second bursts
  2. let the paint BEGIN to dry.  depending on temperature, maybe an hour or less.  DO NOT LET THIS CURE!!
  3. wet or dry sand with 1000 grit.  you're essentially scraping off the paint.  the paint specs should be organic and non-uniform or patterned, so vary your rubs and places where you're sanding as you go.
  4. finish your sanding with 0000 steel wool, especially in the larger surfaces.  rinse and let dry.

 

The steel wool will knock some of the shine off the gloss paint.  We'll restore that later...!

Edited by eqdizzle
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Eric, I have this kit from Jim too. Just been waiting for the holidays to wind down to really get started. Quick noob question... would you mind if I ask how you make your sludge? I'm very familiar with bondo but can see how that will eventually crack with this material. That said I'm not particularly hard on my suits so maybe bondo would be ok? 

 

Thanks,

Ramey

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Eric, I have this kit from Jim too. Just been waiting for the holidays to wind down to really get started. Quick noob question... would you mind if I ask how you make your sludge? I'm very familiar with bondo but can see how that will eventually crack with this material. That said I'm not particularly hard on my suits so maybe bondo would be ok? 

 

Thanks,

Ramey

 

sludge is merely trimmings from your armor in a jar of acetone.  Since it's essentially the same material, it will expand/contract/flex exactly like the armor.  Why not to use Bondo (except as a top coat??) ?  Think about how Bondo recommends that you remove the dried bondo off the rubber spreaders...bend them a bit and the whole thing falls off.  Bondo is GREAT on items that don't get flexed:  Cars, our buckets, etc.  On seamless armor...be prepared to fix and replace a LOT.

 

Bondo is definitely faster initially...and I'm using it in top coats.  My first drops into the seamless parts is sludge, however....!

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