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Doopy E11 with working stock and other mods


crisisfilms

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Alright, I've been meaning to get this thread started, but figured I should get a good amount done first. I wanted to take my time so its been a little slow going just working on it for an hour here and there, but I think I have enough done to start posting some pics. I'm using a DD kit, T-Jay's completion kit (from here), a new mag from Gazmosis (from here) and I'll be adding a real folding stock (cause I couldn't resist). Sorry about the quality of pics, cell phone camera and bad lighting do not make for good pictures. I also slowed down on the pictures as I went, so there's a few things I missed. If anyone haas questions let me know, and my photobucket album will have some extra pics that I wont post here if you're looking for more details. I kinda jumped around in terms of what parts I worked on at what time, but I'll reorder some of the pics to keep it more cohesive. Also a big thanks to Twnbrother, Thrawn's guard, Sith Lord, Bulldog44, and many others for their awesome build threads that have kept me motivated and given me lots of ideas to go off of. Oh and of course all the wonderful people who put together the blaster reference thread, truely amazing stuff there.
 
Standard DD kit pic
tWdceJt.jpg
 
Gazmosis mag v. DD mag
8FknSEs.jpg
 
Picked up this set of diamond grinding bits for $20 at Harbor Freight. Great investment.

 
Grinding out the mag well
VZ4HyfJ.jpg
 
Hated to do it but had to cut the mag down to save on some work and keep strength in the walls of the well
Zaz4qOj.jpg
 
Just about there. Have done some adjustments after this but havent taken a pic. just assume the gaps were closed lol Waiting to install it until after paint to ensure the best look.
4ZEhUua.jpg
 
Wanted to make the release button work so I grabbed a spring and a tension pin to use as the bar. I actually had to buy a shorter pin as this one was too long.
 6mbOSyP.jpg
 
Very carefully found where the center of the button should be and started drilling. Once I had a hole all the way through I filed and ground it wider to make room for the button to depress, as well as a narrow area below that for the spring to rest on.
G1vewXH.jpg  
 
I cut a section of the scope rail use shape into the lower part. Carefully cared out the area for the part to recess into (apparently I didnt get a picture of it but there is a second smaller part that I also added to replicate the "stepped" look of the original part as well. This also makes sure that the lower section doesnt turn and get stuck in a weird position)
gAFHocQ.jpg  I6zI2a5.jpg lNN4Dbk.jpg

I also picked up some punches and added the 000 to the bottom before assembling everything. (also not pictured is the recess I drilled into the bottom of the button for the pin to fit into)
 Hh59tBM.jpg

Also wanted to mod the SN into my 501st number so I used some larger punches I got and some green stuff after grinding out a channel.

 
Started working on the grip. replaced some screws and changed the rear of the lock screw to a ball bearing to get some more metal in there. Also used some of the metal wire inteded for the spring to make some pins to hold the trigger guard in. Didnt get pics, but also did the now standard nail head as a pivot point for the trigger with a pen spring installed. Also used the rest of the nail for the selector switch. Really wanted to do something better there, but couldnt find anything that fit my needs. May still mod that before finishing.
UUu8yR7.jpg  
 
Didn't get in progress pics, but i ground out a channel for the d-ring holder thing to sit in on the end cap and used green stuff to blend it together.
Mg2hOTI.jpg
 
Since I wanted a working stock and the end cap is what locks it open, I needed to make that and the clip fuctional. I started cutting some small squares from styrene and using solvent to stack them to the needed thickness.Then I attached them with superglue inside the end cap. Placement was a pain and had to adjust it a lot to get it to sit straight.
b1VP8s3.jpg  eV17HO2.jpg
 
After doing all that I noticed the back wall of the endcap is too thick and wont allow it to be installed properly, so I ground that down around the edges. Using a pencil to mark the area really helped. When the pencil dissapeared in one area I moved to the next and helped keep everything level. After doing this it installed properly and moved forwards and back as neccesary.
h5IG9yD.jpg  DpvrgLL.jpg
 
Moving on to the endclip, I first drilled a hole in the DD part where the pivot point is to make sure of the proper placement, then ground everything down to just the moving part. Drilled a hole in the channel from TJays kit and grabbed a small metal angled spring from a cheap counter I picked up for the numbers. a little superglue and some metal bars from that same counter for the pivot and the small detail under the head and the endclip was ready to be installed. Screwed the channel into the barrel and waiting for painting for the final assembly as with the mag.
  ms95pEs.jpg   
 
For the rear sight, I replaced the blobby bits on the side with some little eyelet things I picked up at Micheal's and s small section of the counter bar in the center. Used some pins to give some extra strength to the super glue when attaching and cleaned some holes with green stuff.
AJeYNIj.jpg
 
 
 
I'll leave it there for now. Next post will cover front sight, folding stock, and the bolt. Everything is still a work in progress and hopefully I'll pick up the pace a bit as my ANOVOS armor should be coming soonish. Mostly painting and final assembly is left which is a bit daunting in terms of the order in which to do everything to ensure I dont miss anything. Hope to have another post soon, and hope I can help some others with their build.

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Wow Adam! That can be called an outstanding start. Seems like you collected pictures since quite a while?!

 

Your first posting already covers about 20% of the whole build. Awesome! Following.

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yeah great first post. Some cool mods. Love the working mag release button. Def do that on my next build.

 

Any chance you could make the pics bigger in the thread (just copy the "IMG" code and paste). Then we won't have to open every picture to see it larger...

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Wow Adam! That can be called an outstanding start. Seems like you collected pictures since quite a while?!

 

Your first posting already covers about 20% of the whole build. Awesome! Following.

Thanks, I had meant to post as I went,but just got a little too lazy lol been working on it since about August I think.

 

 

yeah great first post. Some cool mods. Love the working mag release button. Def do that on my next build.

 

Any chance you could make the pics bigger in the thread (just copy the "IMG" code and paste). Then we won't have to open every picture to see it larger...

I can change the links but the pics show up insanely large so I thought this may be better. If you dont mind the giant pics I can switch it though. Let me know what you guys want me to do.

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Nice. Much better.

 

You can trim a bit more off that magazine too. It should go all the way in up the cut out section and flat bit of the clip on the other side (if that makes sense)

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  • 2 months later...

Took way longer than I'd like to get this next update out, but I wanted to finish a few things before posting this, plus holidays, computer issues, and the whole TFA release and all keeping me busy. Still figuring out what my paint situation will be, but I have some ideas.

I had trouble figuring out what to use to make the front sight block, but I found some black acrylic plastic pieces at the science surplus store nearby for $0.15 each
FAAlsvK.jpg

I used some plastic cement to get 3 pieces stacked to the right thickness, before cutting out a small rectangle.
2dfE6DQ.jpgd6PYvog.jpg

I then just started shaping it using a bunch of different files, with a little sandpaper thrown in, and a small hand drill for the holes.
   

I went through a couple sight pins befroe I was happy enough with it. Used a screw as the base and used the dremel to grind off the threads and a file to flatten the sides.
iwuKNFZ.jpg

Forgot to get progress pics of carving the channel into the barrel but after lots of worrying about where to carve, I just went for it and it didnt turn out too bad. The sight is held in by the pressure, no glue, so if need be I can knock it out with a small hammer.
06KyHpy.jpg

After cleaning it up, I used a thin layer of green stuff and the handle of a center punch tool to get the texture on the sight guard. It got a little sloppy at the rear bottom, but should be hidden pretty well.
jNPxGu6.jpg

Used some small pins and superglue to attach the front sight guard.


Carved out the front bolts enough that I can put the whole screw in, which will be after paint for a better look.
v5CrlgE.jpg

Drilled out the bottom holes on the barrel and thinned out every hole to make the barrel thinner. Also attached the bayonet lug.
2RL7Rkb.jpg    

I used this bit, which fit inside the holes and carefully pulled up as I went around the edges until I got to the right thickness.


The front hole on the bottom took some special attention since the stock uses it to lock in place. It had to be made much thinner and took some fine tuning with some small files to get it just right. I got a little close to the surface in spots, and was worried in general about the strength so I used some green stuff inside to reinforce it.
 

I found some aluminum spacers that fit perfectly into the stocks holes, so I drilled out the receiver's pivot area to fit in the spacers.
  

The inner diameter of the spacers was a little small for the end caps, so I used a regular drill bit to widen the holes a bit.


The spacers now fit into the receiver, the stock fits over the spacers, and the end caps hold the stock arms in place. The only thing left is to drill the holes for the pins that fit through the receiver/spacers/caps to hold it all together. The size and position of the holes makes it a bit tricky to do so I'm still working on it. Will be don for the next update.
OhMVEKE.jpg

I carved out a lot of the inner receiver to make the charging handle port much thinner and more in line with the bolt area in terms of thickness.
For the bolt area with the charging handle, I used a piece of 2mm styrene and heated it till I got it to curve. I cut a section of that and shaped the end to fit into the charging port.
I sanded down the charging handle, and cut a small hole into the bolt strip so I could fit the handle inside and emulate the way the real handle fits into the bolt.
I used a 1mm strip of styrene and curved and cut it into shape for the clearing stip. I then cut that piece into 2 sections. One for the charging port and one for the bolt area.
 wnfO5oq.jpg

The inner barrel from Tino's kit looks great with the thinned out holes and is the perfect length to help work as the inner bolt too. I cut out some small sections towards the front to make room for the front hex screws. One side ended up being cut too much and was visible through one of the barrel holes so I had to fix it a little. I used the wire from Tino's kit to make the spring and plan to use a 5/8in copper pipe and coupling to recreate the rear of the bolt. I haven't finalized this yet so it may still change but an added benefit is some extra weight in the rear to offset the heavy handle of the stock in front.


After sanding down the old clearing strip, I started carving out a section for the extractor.


This is as far as I've gotten so far, but since my TK kit is now shipping, I'm hoping to get some more done quickly. Next update should have the final assembly of the main body, and hopefully some paint. I'm holding off on the scope, counter, and power cells since they're each involved projects on their own and can be added at any point after the main blaster is done.

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Looks like you are taking this to the extreme, Adam, and it looks fantastic!  I noticed that you are hollowing out the ejection port guard...  are you planning to add this in?  On my last build, I decided that it simply needed it.  Will anyone ever notice?  Probably not... but I will.  I used a spare piece of ABS, carved it into the U shape, and added a short length of a nail I cut off.  Is it 100% accurate?  Again, probably not, but I think small details like this add that certain "je ne sais quoi".

 

fX4YzoM.jpg

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Easiest way might be to re-use some of your black acrylic plastic pieces, which you bought for the front sight block (very nice work by the way :duim: ).

 

You only have to decide if you replicate the extractor in the slotted or the solid version. Not sure from top of my head but I think it was slotted on replicas (like Fazakerly) and solid on original Sterlings. Again, not 100% sure. Others might know...

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On 1/28/2016 at 7:06 AM, Tr00per said:

Awesome build so far, can't see any flaws with it so far :)

 

here's some help about your question.

Yellow, green and red are the meassurements of what's visable. (not the actual full size of the parts itself)

 

 

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much

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