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Junglie Scout ESB WIP


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Well it's time to come out of the closet and make this official. I've been secretly working on an ESB TK for some time albeit very very slowly.

I'll post pictures of what I have done later today once I get a bit more time.

TK kit is RWA with ESB handguards.
Belt by Katie W.
Neckseal and holster from Clive B.
Shoes are Clifford James Chelsea boots.
E11 - Doopydoos with M19 scope.

 

Gonna start with the blaster as this was bought first ostensibly as a collectors piece (that worked out well whistling.gif )!!!

I've not gone the promo/pugman version and this is a stripped down ANH blaster with the correct M19 scope, I have just the D Ring to attach as I'm trying to find a better one than supplied by DD. I've not weathered it as I'd like to think as a military man I wouldn't let my weapon get rusty!!

 

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The bolt detail has been removed and replaced and the bolt is now visible aft of the cocking handle. I mocked up a spring carrier and the spring itself is an accurate reproduction of a sterling spring (it was chep too!!)

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Scope has glass and mock target included.

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This blaster looks really good. Especially the section with the inner bolt, spring and spring cup is very detailed :duim:  I also like the combination of scope lens and target decal, makes it more real.

 

Is there no ring on your end cap, or is it just the angle of the pictures?

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Ok, now the shoes. I was pointed towards these boots as I was assured they'd be ok. Now I'm not so sure as it's been mentioned in a couple of WIPs lately that the elastic part of these shoes is too wide. Please could I find out either way quickly please as these took a while to do?

First the boots were stripped of all waxes, polishes and dye.

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First coat of white dye added with a sponge.

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Remaining layers and sealing liquids were applied by airbrush to produce the finished article.

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Applying the dye in this manner means that for all intents and purposes the shoes are now white and not white over black. They will not crack, peel or flake off their new colour. It was worth the time, effort and relatively expensive kit to achieve the look. On the plus side I've got enough materials to do quite a few more pairs should I ever feel the need.

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The helmet has been started with the teeth and eyes removed. The helmet has been rivetted together and adjusted to give the required frown profile. I've based my helmet loosely on the John Mollo owned ESB helmet from Star Wars Helmets. Although not identical, I think coupled with looking at screen grabs from ESB that I'm happy with the look. The ears have been roughly trimmed with screen accurate gaps (not intentional to start with but good enough for Government work), they are not fitted at the moment as I'm waiting for the etch primer on the screws to dry before they are reattached and painted white once secured.

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The plastic will remain on until after painting has been done (paint ordered Humbrol #5-Admiral Gray, #21-Gloss Black and #85-Satin Coal Black) and decals applied.

 

Ears are on and screws are safely etch primed ready for white paint.

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Ears very much based on this chap albeit by accident  :whistle: .

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Not sure about this one but I'm going to make my own decals. I've done the drawings in photoshop but I'm undecided on the paper; gloss or matt?? I have a good quality laser printer at work that has produced a good result on quality white paper so I just need to buy some sticker paper really to finish my helmet off. Received my paints today so I'll begin paining the lid tomorrow too.

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Painting started this afternoon. Gonna give the frown another coat but the vocoder and ears are fine and just need 24 hrs to dry. I'll add the gloss plack accent to the ears tomorrow. The John Mollo helmet has three rank bars per side so I'm going to copy that.

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I'm almost tempted to go for a Phase 2 frown but I don't think I've got the minerals!!!!!

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and finally the ab buttons (what a pain they are!!!).

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Currently on a course all week but I haven't sat idle in my free time. I've been researching snaps and rivets. Would the following be along the right lines?

Bifurcated rivets (8mm domed head):

Ebay Bifurcated rivets.

Snaps (not sure on size??):

Snaps

Single Cap Rivet (7mm X 6mm):

Single Cap Rivet

Thank you,

A.

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I'd recommend Tandy Line 24 snaps, 5/16'' post, anything under 5/16'' is too small.  

 

Check out this list for all the things you'll need and how much: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/

 

From that post, Echo (Francisco) has Centurion level rivet sets available, at cost no less.  (Especially helpful if you're like me and unable to get less than 50 at a time locally).  

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Thank you both!!!

 

I prefer to buy in Britain thanks to numerous things going missing or taking a month or two to arrive. I'm also on a timeframe so I'll convert the imperial measurements to metric. Thanks for also pointing me in the direction of the materials thread, I've been using it already. I asked about the snaps as it was in imperial and we buy metric here. All sorted though I've found some very suitable ones online.

 

Kev, I was kinda thinking the same thing but I haven't yet gone for it.

Edited by Junglie Scout
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All arm and leg armour is roughly assembled apart from the rear fitting. I can't do that on my own and I don't think Mrs S would be too chuffed to help either!!  Biceps are finished with a 13mm finishing strip (a 15mm looked too wide). Forearms are again in process of cutting to fit.

TD done with Ninjabiscuit brackets:

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Shins done front only. Sniper plate temp fixed to finalise shape and position.

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Drop boxes cut and sized. these will get glued once I've completed the belt.

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Finally the ears have their border but I've not committed to three rank stripes per side (as per John Mollo helmet) until I get confirmation that I'm not seeing things as other helmets have a three and two config.

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Edited by Junglie Scout
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Hey Andy something I caught in these recent pics. May I suggest trimming the cover strips back a bit that are overlapping the ends of the armor. This will give your armor a more accurate look. If they're not overlapping and it's just bad picture angle please disregard. 

 

Also, when cutting and installing the cover strips on the thighs, which can be tricky with the angles you're dealing with, here's a link to a reference gallery that should help. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/59-the-rs-suit/

 

Keep up the great work  :jc_doublethumbup:

 

Here's a couple reference pics to compare to in regards to the overlap. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you for the pointers/advice. I've taken onboard the cover strip advice and adjusted them to be bit a bit random in length almost.

 

Lots of work has gone on but I've not really had the chance to sit and upload pics etc. Its coming along nicely now so all I have left to do is finish the legs and get it all to fit nice. Please note that the protective plastic on the armour has been left on to protect it as I'm a bit heavy handed at times.

Helmet done bar foam insert. Homemade decals worked ok; I still want to get screen printed ones done eventually.
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Ab buttons have been glued to the Ab section.
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Split rivets fitted and painted (more coats to go yet).
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Strapping done too.
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Both forearms now done and have 15mm cover strips added.
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Belt bent and attached to belt using 7mm single cap rivets.
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I'm gonna have to hurry up as this chap turned up today too!!!!!
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  • 5 months later...

After a very hefty layoff I've managed to get to the test fit stage.

 

I'd like to say this was a quick kit up today but it wasn't; it took bloody ages!!! Still if it wasn't for a shoulder popper going pop this might not have looked too bad. Shins are riding high and rear cover strips not fully finished at the bottom (plan on for them), cut outs at rear of knees required and total replacement of elastic in the upper arms. The stuff I have is just not stretchy enough amazingly??

Well I'll put these up for general concensus then...........

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Hey Andy you look great. For basic you look like your ready to go. If shooting for EIB or Centurion I would suggest tightening up the gap in the shoulder bells, bring the left thigh up a smidgen, level with the right, and for Centurion you'll need to close the gap between the ab and kidney.

 

Hope this helps 

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Thanks chaps; I don't have any plans for EIB or Centurion but I'll take your advice on board. This is a filler costume to do events where only TKs are required. My FO TK is on hold as I can't get gaskets that I can get my arms in.<br><br>

I always said I'd do TK on day and it's very close now tHanks to your comments. <br><br>

The lense looks so green as it was a bright day, it's looks fine once the helmet is on my head ;-).

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