Joe's Doopy Doos Build with T-Jay's finishing kit

[JoeySaurusRex]

I jumped on the Anovos bandwagon just like a lot of other new members. I ordered my kit at celebration VII. It was too much of a bargain to not at least even attempt a build. I’ve been reviewing armor build threads, helmet electronics, and E-11 builds. All this looked to fun not to dive in head first and start building a blaster in anticipation of my armor arrival at the end of the year (hopefully.)

 

 

Lot of members are building the doopy doos resin kit with good results. I ordered mine when they became available a few weeks back and it arrived today. I ordered a completion set from TJ; it should be here in a couple days. Not much progress so far but here’s what I’ve done.

 

Box/parts shot.

 

Parts washed and drying

 

I didn’t realize how unprepared I was to build this until my fully charged $20 ryobi cordless drill barely made it through two of the vent holes in the barrel. I picked up a new drill.

 

 

I proceeded to drill out the rest of the holes. I used a dremel with carving attachment to shape the front hole. The holes are a little rough and need some clean up. 

 

 

The 580 RPM / min Ryobi to 2500 RPM / min Bostitch jump made it really easy to drill one of the holes all the way through the barrel and through the t-tracks on the other side. I’ll figure out a way to fix it. Unfortunately, this is the cleanest hole i've drilled today. 

 

 

I'm kind of just playing with all the parts and working on them one by one without much a plan.

 

I picked up one of the new Disney E-11’s with the stun and blast setting a few weeks ago. Space seems a little tight in the doopy doos kit but I’m going to try and squeeze the electronics from the Disney kit in there.  Easier said then done, which I'm finding out now applies to everything on the forums. Lots of great work from the members here; I hoping by the end of this I can end up with something as impressive as the work I've seen on the board. 

 

 

[hupspring[TK]]

I'm a fellow Anovos/Doopydoo's builder and from the same area as you!

 

I know how it feels to cut too much when drilling, I've done that a few times already. I plan on using green stuff to fill in the holes, but it might be a bit tougher for you since you drilled through T track. But you could probably put on green stuff and then shape it with some carver tools - although I've never actually used green stuff yet, so I can't say for certain if that will work.

 

I also got a Disney blaster the other day with the intention of putting the electronics in the DD blaster. I haven't opened it yet so I don't know if it will fit. Maybe I'll wait for you to tackle that since I'm going pretty slowly anyways.

[T-Jay[TK]]

Hey Joe, off to a great start. When your completion set arrives, you'll be able to fix that hole with the green stuff. No big issue.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

No worries on the hole. As Tino said, the green stuff will be the key to patching that up and whatever else needs filling or reworking. You could even try creating a segment of t-track out of some PVC or extra chunk of resin if available, then fit it into place and seal the seams with green stuff. Off to a brave start. Looking forward to seeing your build progress.

[JoeySaurusRex]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

 

Richard, I see a build party in our future.

 

Tino, Completion set arrived today. It's waiting for me at the post office. Is there a product name for "the green stuff?" I've been playing a little fast and loose with this build. I wouldn't be surprised if I ended up needing more later down the road. 

 

I'm not too concerned about repairing the blaster. I'm much more concerned about my wife seeing the scratch in the table before I repair it. :-)

 

I've spent the past hour or so cleaning up all the work I've done to this point. 

 

I tore the guts out of the disney blaster. Most of it comes out easy; I was unable to salvage the battery case. I'll need to replace most of the wires as it's all a little too short to install the way I want to. 

 

A couple pictures. 

 

Basic Disney E-11 electronics. (Minus battery pack)

 

 

The LED housing and setting switch needed shortening to fit into the tube. 

 

I ground them down with the dremel just enough to fit in the tube.

 

The plan is to set the speaker in the butt of the gun similar to how it sits in the new disney e-11. Without modification it's a little too big. I ground down the back end of the barrel to fit the speaker. It's not pretty but this will all be covered by the end cap.

 

What kind of glue are you guys using to assemble the blaster?

[UHCoog12[TK]]

Gonna be following this one closely ... I'm a new Anovos and potential Doopys builder. Where do we get a link to purchase the kit? (and finishing kit)

[T-Jay[TK]]

(...)    Tino, Completion set arrived today. 

 

Is there a product name for "the green stuff?"

 

I'm much more concerned about my wife seeing the scratch in the table before I repair it. :-)

 

What kind of glue are you guys using to assemble the blaster?

 

Thanks for the feedback, Joe

 

You'll find the "green stuff" when searching for Kneadatite Blue/Yellow Epoxy Putty or just click here.

 

Show us how you repaired the scratch in the desk with green stuff

 

Best glue for resin to resin connections is CA glue (is included in your completion set)

[Thrawn's guard]

Nice work on your build so far Joe.

 

The repair to the T tracks should be quite straightforward so don't worry about it.

 

When carrying out repairs I tend to mould the green stuff roughly in to the correct shape but leave it projecting slightly more than will be needed. Once it has set you can then file and sand to get a smooth match with the resin.

 

Another technique though requiring more accuracy when sculpting the green stuff is to wet it while it is still 'soft' and smooth it with a flat edge or finger.

 

I must also say that I particularly interested in how well you manage to integrate the electronics.

[JoeySaurusRex]

Gonna be following this one closely ... I'm a new Anovos and potential Doopys builder. Where do we get a link to purchase the kit? (and finishing kit)

 

Blaster kit

http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp

 

T-Jay's Completion kit

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/

[JoeySaurusRex]

I did a little more work on the blaster tonight. 

 

Started off by repairing the mistakes i made the other night with some green stuff. The hole in the T-Track and a little bit of overdrilled space in the folding stock.

 

I installed three hex screws. Two in the muzzle. I ground out the molded hex screws. I cut the threads off the hex nuts and glued them into place. Using a rubber band to hold them in place while glue dries.

 

Hex nut in the handle. I drilled a pilot hole and ground out the molded hex nut. I screwed the replacement in.

[Twnbrother]

Your build is off to a great start. I am looking forward to watching the progress.

[JoeySaurusRex]

Did some more work today. The Green stuff solidified enough to sand it. Here's a progression of the hole in the barrel.

Hole

Filled:

Sanded / filed / shaped:

 

 

I started work on the front sight. I disassembled it, ground a groove into the base and sides of the sight pin holder, and piled on the green stuff to later sculpt the profile and create a little more space to install the small grub screw and sight pin.

 

 

I also added a screw to the free lock.

Edited: Spelling

[charlesnarles]

Can't wait to see how those guts work out for you. Tight fit!

I read that CA glue is best for resin-to-resin and e6000 is best for attaching different materials together. I've used regular Krazy Glue on resin-to-plastic with success, just make sure of its intended usage

[JoeySaurusRex]

I've been flying through this build without taking many in progress photos. 

 

I installed the folding stock, bayonet lug, and some of the other greebles.

 

I put down a quick coat of silver paint and a few coats of black. I want to get some paint on the parts of the blaster that would be difficult to hit later when fully assembled.

 

Today I worked on the electronics.

I started by extending all the wiring. The existing cables were just long enough to fit the Disney E11 but not long enough for what I've planned. I ordered a bundle of 200mm dupont cables and stripped the connectors. I kept all the wiring the same color as the original assembly so I could reference my unmodified wiring photo.

 

I was unable to salvage the battery holder from the Disney E11 so I ordered the smallest one I could find from amazon. 

5.2 x 3.6 x 1.2cm/ 2" x1.4" x 0.5"(L*W*H)

 

There was only one reasonable place to add the battery pack so I started to hollow out the magazine holder. This was tedious, I imagine I put about four hours into grinding and sanding this down to the point it would fit the battery pack. To add extra room for the battery I cut a hole in the blaster body. 

 

I ordered a replacement magazine from Steve (Gazmosis.) With a little sanding on the magazine and magazine holder I was able to get a a solid press fit. I'm trying to figure out a better way to mount this together where i can still access the battery compartment when needed. Probably magnets. 

 

I'm sure there is a much more elegant way to install the trigger mechanism and mode selector switch but this is what I came up with.

The trigger switch was installed under the trigger. To make the trigger movable I drilled a hole through the trigger housing and the trigger itself. I added a pin so it could hinge back and forth. The tension on the trigger button is enough to reset the trigger back to the original position.

 

I drilled out a recess in the back of the handle to allow room for the mode selector switch. I apologize for the horrible photo, I assure you in the middle of that mess is the mode switch. 

 

Here's an idea of how it all comes together. 

 

The board sits under the battery pack in the magazine housing. If you refer back to previous picture you can see I used a screw to secure the handle. There is enough clearance under the screw to fit the chip securely. 

 

I have to admit I don't know anything about electronics. The LED's are currently mounted to the microchip. I've removed them from the board. Is it possible to solder the LED's to the wires and solder the wires to the original LED position on the board? It looks like there are two solder points for each LED, should I use two wires for each?

 

This whole project requires a lot of cleanup. Although I was able to fill the original hole I created in the top t-track, I ended up over-sanding.

 

By the end of this it's going to be more green stuff then resin. Still having a blast hacking away at this thing. 

[Thrawn's guard]

This is a very interesting build Joe and I can't wait to see how the electronics work.

[charlesnarles]

I'm learning about simple wiring too. You should be able to add wires between the LEDs and the board by using two wires each (positive and negative). You'll have to be careful not to connect + to - (nor - to +) or the bulb will fry. Google LED leads and you should find pics to help determine which connector is which. Keep everything connected the same way and it'll work.

Hope that helps! Keep it up😎

Edited August 4, 2015 by charlesnarles

[StriderX[501st]]

Great build, bro. Just what I had in mind with my DDs