Phoenix Props ANH E-11 full kit build

[VulpX[TK]]

So, today was a good day. A brown box arrived, containing the kit that will be my first big step into a new world: a Phoenix Props E-11 kit, ANH style, pipe included. I say first big step, because together with the TM kit that I will order in a few days, this kit will be a part of the TK ANH Stunt build that (I hope ) will be my ticket into the 501st!

 

But let's get on to the important stuff:

 

The aforementioned brown box:

 

 

 

The neatly packed contents:

 

 

 

The contents displayed:

 

 

 

First things first, a nice wash:

 

 

 

Next up, cleaning up the parts and finding out how much drill work still needs to be done. 

 

I am really looking forward to this build!

Edited July 21, 2015 by VulpX

[Thrawn's guard]

Wow great looking kit Richard I can't wait to see this build develop.

[Dday[501st]]

So, today was a good day. A brown box arrived, containing the kit that will be my first big step into a new world: a Phoenix Props E-11 kit, ANH style, pipe included. I say first big step, because together with the TM kit that I will order in a few days, this kit will be a part of the TK ANH Stunt build that (I hope ) will be my ticket into the 501st!

 

But let's get on to the important stuff:

 

The aforementioned brown box:

 

 

 

The neatly packed contents:

 

 

 

The contents displayed:

 

 

 

First things first, a nice wash:

 

 

 

Next up, cleaning up the parts and finding out how much drill work still needs to be done. 

 

I am really looking forward to this build!

 

Yeah man, awesome to see another build from my new V2 kits and really looking forward to seeing what you do with it! Ask any questions you may have.

 

One thing I failed ot mention is the 2 long silver rounded head screws. You cut this off at the top of the thread and insert them into the stock/stock pivot and glue them down to give the look of the pivot pins.

[VulpX[TK]]

Thanks for the info Derrek! 

 

So after washing I decided to clean up/sand some parts. I had two parts, the ring and sight cage, that had quite some resin residue left from the cast. Too much to sand away by hand, so I used a dremel to do it. I have never used one before, but that tool is awesome! Very carefully (and actually quite anxious, I really don't want to screw up my parts), I used the drill, saw and sand bit to clean up the ring and sight cage. Pro tip, use a dust mask while doing this, the amount of fine resin dust that is released can't be healthy

 

So, here are some pictures of the two parts after sanding with the dremel and finishing by hand:

 

 

 

 

Dust everywhere (and this is after a gust of wind blew most of the resin away):

 

 

The parts look quite rough now, but that's easily fixed later with a nice wash and a fresh coat of nice matte black paint

Edited July 21, 2015 by VulpX

[Dday[501st]]

Thanks for the info Derrek! 

 

So after washing I decided to clean up/sand some parts. I had two parts, the ring and sight cage, that had quite some resin residue left from the cast. Too much to sand away by hand, so I used a dremel to do it. I have never used one before, but that tool is awesome! Very carefully (and actually quite anxious, I really don't want to screw up my parts), I used the drill, saw and sand bit to clean up the ring and sight cage. Pro tip, use a dust mask while doing this, the amount of fine resin dust that is released can't be healthy

 

So, here are some pictures of the two parts after sanding with the dremel and finishing by han

 

Dust everywhere (and this is after a gust of wind blew most of the resin away):

 

 

 

The parts look quite rough now, but that's easily fixed later with a nice wash and a fresh coat of nice matte black paint

 

The sight cage ended up molding wrong but since it's a part of a 7 piece block mold, I had to go with it for the time being. I'll eventually make a new mold that will mean a lot less clean up on the front sight cage.

 

Nearly any sanding/roughness disappears after the first layer of paint lands, just like you said.

Edited July 21, 2015 by Dday

[Khazid[TK]]

Nice another PP build! Keep it up Richard, so far so good.

[Captain_Wordo[TK]]

Looks really good!

[DroidHunter]

That's a great looking kit!

[gazmosis[501st]]

MMMMM coffee beans!

[VulpX[TK]]

Ok, little update. I did some more cleanup and sanding today, and most parts are coming along nicely. I drilled holes in some of them, and the only parts left that need some work are the counter, scope, the scope rail and t-tracks. I need to figure out the exact positioning of the counter before I drill the holes, and that needs a little research. 

 

Anyways, I had a little mishap yesterday and today, here are some pics:

 

This is the little hook on the stock that's supposed to go into the barrel.

 

 

Here is the hook after I did my magic:

 

 

So I broke it. Luckily the hook isn't really essential to keep the stock sticking to the barrel, a little screw a few centimeters down will do that. 

 

And here is another part that I think didn't really turn out quite right:

 

 

The power cylinder. I started sanding this today and I noticed there was already a crack in the plate the cylinder rests on. It was really thin of both sides, so to prevent further cracking I just took off the really thin base on both sides, and quite some resin residue on both sides. But now I'm a little worried. Of course this is now no longer strictly screen accurate. Will this be a problem with certification, should I go looking for another power cylinder? I think when it's glued on the mag well it will be hardly noticeable.

 

I also started thinking about the paint I want to use. I came up with this after some advice from a friendly TK over a Dutch Garrison:

 

Gloss black: grip

Gun metal: bolt

Satin black: the rest

 

I think that will look really nice in the end.

Edited July 23, 2015 by VulpX

[Twnbrother]

satin black still looks shiny.  I got advice to use Flat Black as it will give a better appearance.

[Khazid[TK]]

You can fix the cylinder base with some thin plastic (1mm or 0.75mm styrene). If your local hobby store doesn't have that, pick up a for sale sign at your local hardware store and make a new plate that way. Some filler (green stuff, magic sulpt etc.) along with paint and no one will know except you.

Edited July 23, 2015 by Khazid

[VulpX[TK]]

Hmm, I'll go check at the hardware store tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!

[Khazid[TK]]

Hmm, I'll go check at the hardware store tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!

You're welcome. When you're there, look for Rustoleum hammered black. That is a great color for the "metal" parts of the gun (everything except the grip). Just knock down its gloss with some dull coat of flat black sprayed from 20+ inches away.

[Dday[501st]]

Hmm, I'll go check at the hardware store tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!

 

The powercell plate is a very thin piece and hard to get just right when trimming down. I'll have to be much more careful when I do the rough trimming of the part and leave a little more of the pouring area to give some added strength.

 

I think Brandon's option is great. You won't even notice this once you do it. Or even if you left the part like it is, you will have no problem with approval, it's a minor detail that is barely noticeable on a built blaster.

[VulpX[TK]]

I got an example of a blaster coated with satin black from a trooper over a DG: 

 

 

I think this doesn't look too shiny at all. I would only add a little gloss to the grip, more gunmetal to the bolt and some weathering. Thoughts?

[usaeatt2]

I got an example of a blaster coated with satin black from a trooper over a DG: 

 

 

I think this doesn't look too shiny at all. I would only add a little gloss to the grip, more gunmetal to the bolt and some weathering. Thoughts?

 

Definitely gloss black for the grip (it will also add resistance to wear).

Detail the bolt and trigger group plates with gunmetal and/or silver.

Weather as needed, but keep it subtle.

Man, I LOVE this kit!  Just like the real thing, but easier to modify!  Happy building!     

Edited July 24, 2015 by usaeatt2

[VulpX[TK]]

Definitely gloss black for the grip (it will also add resistance to wear).

Detail the bolt and trigger group plates with gunmetal and/or silver.

Weather as needed, but keep it subtle.

Man, I LOVE this kit!  Just like the real thing, but easier to modify!  Happy building!     

So far I'm definitely enjoying the build!

 

Which parts do you mean specifically with the trigger group plates? 

[usaeatt2]

Which parts do you mean specifically with the trigger group plates? 

 

The small triangular areas above the trigger. 

Those areas are the exposed metal edges of the "trigger group", which slides into the receiver on a real Sterling.

If we're lucky, you'll have a splendid reference to look at later today...

[VulpX[TK]]

The small triangular areas above the trigger. 

Those areas are the exposed metal edges of the "trigger group", which slides into the receiver on a real Sterling.

If we're lucky, you'll have a splendid reference to look at later today...

Thanks. Yeah I saw the monthly report. Really great timing on the reference library!

[VulpX[TK]]

Ok, so I've been working on this steadily last weekend, together with painting my boots. I have all the parts sanded and drilled except the rail scope. I'll update later today with some pics.

 

So for the rail scope I'm facing a little problem. I need to bend it, but don't have a vice at home. Does anyone have tips on how to do it cleanly with other household items? I've already made a litte cut in the backside of the rail so it'll bend easier, but I can't figure out how to do it neatly without a vice.

[Dday[501st]]

You can use a pair of wood clamps if they have a straight edge, or a pair of vicegrips with a cloth between the part the the tool, to keep from damaging the part.

 

Also, keep in mind that you have to be very very careful with bending alu, it has a tendency to break if you bend it too fast.

 

Also I haven't heard anything good about if you score/cut the backside to make bending easier. The last person I saw who did this this ended in a broken rail. Alu bends really easy on its own.

[VulpX[TK]]

Ok, I'll try that than. I made a really shallow cut, hope it doesn't break. As always, thanks for the tips Derrek!  

[VulpX[TK]]

Ok, so here's a little update with pics:

 

I sawed the scope rail:

 

 

 

 

 

The little cut to assist with the bending:

 

 

And it's bent!

 

 

 

Thanks for the useful tip Derrek!

 

 

I also needed to do some more cleanup on the stock, so I drilled out the residue on the tip:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next I need to work a little on the "teeth" of the scope rail, I made them a little to sharp so the rail doesn't sit very well on the barrel. Just need to make the angle a little smaller, easily fixed. Then I'll do a test-fit and screw all the pieces together to figure out the exact position of the scope and where I need to drill the holes for that.

 

Then a very thorough wash and on to gluing and painting! 

[VulpX[TK]]

Ok, a big update. I was able to do some more work the last few days, and am proud to say I'm ready to start painting already!

 

Right now I am waiting for the first layer of primer to dry, so I have a moment to post pictures from the last few days and this morning:

 

So I figures out the placement of my scope on its rail and drilled the holes

 

 

 

And yesterday I did my T-tracks. I dipped them in very hot water that had just boiled for 25 seconds. Then I stuck them in a hole at the end of a broom I have that is just the right size (what are the odds, right? ). They bent easily.

 

 

 

 

 

Before trimming:

 

 

And after trimming:

 

 

I also glued all parts that needed gluing last night with trusty E6000:

 

 

 

 

I got the paint I want to use on the blaster. First a primer, then gloss black for the grip, metal for the bolt and triggergroup, and satin black for the rest.

 

 

I made some hooks to suspend large parts from some coat hangers.

 

 

The construction I made for the small parts. The alligator clips on sticks that I use for Gunpla come in handy  

 

 

 

The larger parts are really kept in suspense!

 

 

First primer coat done!

 

 

 

The primer layer on the T-tracks is a little too thick for a first layer. Hope it'll look ok after the second one.

 

 

 

So, now I'm waiting 2 hours for the first coat to dry, and then it's on to the second one.

 

Protip: keep the doors to your house closed when you're spraying paint on the balcony. I didn't, and I fear I'll have to live in the stink of paint the rest of the day