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L2A3 Sterling Conversion


Dday

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So I was blessed with being able to convert this for someone.

 

It started as he wanted to make as accurate a E11 as possible with real parts and so on. So I started to research parts kits, buying the small pieces and so on.

 

I mentioned the most accurate way to do this would be to just buy a deactivated sterling and convert it into an E-11.

 

He already has the real scope and counter on an aluminum rail, so all thats really for me to do is prep the Sterling, add the power cells, T-Tracks and cut down the magazine which is a pretty straight forward operation.

 

OR so I thought.....

 

I got the deac today, and it's heavy, like heavy heavy. I'll put it on a scale and tell you how heavy.

 

I handled the sterling for about 5 minutes and my hands were caked with gun oil. they really had this thing in perfect storage mode.

 

So I'll have to take it apart and soak it in degreaser first before I do anything to it. Once thats done, I will re-oil specific parts that move and such so that you're not slimed when handling it.

 

As far as the deac part, all I really could see is that the selector switch doesn't move, the inside of the inner barrel is welded and the trigger doesn't move all the way, just a little bit. Not too bad, and nothing is visible so it will be a perfect display where you can't see anything marring it's surface like weld marks and so on.

 

The finish is is pretty good shape, with some of the crinkle finish removed in places but no rust or hard damage.

 

So some photos....

 

oj0IQMH.jpg

 

oQ8a9tE.jpg

 

UyeaXdT.jpg

 

qZCcsiu.jpg

 

RUqjFQP.jpg

 

 

Black is HARD to photograph... I'm going to have to work on that.

 

The question for people and the site admins... before I really make any modifications, are there photos we need/want to get to add to the gallery, or measurements and so on?

 

My next step is to get this thing degreased and clean up the parts and shine up the bolt.

 

I've got a better understanding now also of the way the parts work and work together, how the stock works, locking and so on, how the inside of the spring mechanism works and the list goes on.

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Ohh.. wow, that's one nice looking sterling!

 

I think that when you opened the box, you had water in the eye's :D

Must be awesome to see the real deal...

 

Thank you for sharing this with us :)

 

Love the pictures, like you can see just the tip of the front sight... so much to see on it i bet :D

Very exciting stuff...

 

Sure looks like allot of oil on it,

''Wich is only a good thing'' :jc_doublethumbup:

 

Hope you get some feedback from people that perhaps sell those metal power cylinders with a magnet underneath it for easy placement, and easy to take off.

(Thought i saw it on this forum somewhere)

 

Can't wait to see more of this project!

Looks great ;)

 

 

Cheers, Dennis.

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Ok, so I've done most of the clean up required, and without the oil all over it, the finish is rather dull. 

 

I'm not sure if it's best to repaint the thing or leave it as is. I don't have the hammered crinkle type of paint available... that I have seen here in Germany.

 

I think it's pretty rugged as is, where as a new paint job will give it that out of the factory look.

 

Were the sterlings used in the film painted prior to film use?

 

My thoughts from seeing the sterling now is the counter, scope and tracks are going to stand out a lot since they have nice paintjobs..

 

Here is a photo dump of the cleaning, full disassembly and so on.

 

 

I've gotten a contact in China and worked with them for a few weeks now perfecting the design, but I"m going to get a lot of bolts that match this head pattern. They won't be original lengths but rather 15mm total length, with a 6mm head. It very closely matches the original head height and the pattern is good as well. I'll start putting these in the kits I'm offering as well as selling them on the side.

nKt8tgX.jpg

 

kPkAk43.jpg

uE1VolA.jpg

 

 

Rust spotted! Was easily cleaned up with a wire brush and the damage wasn't into the metal so no worries.

YN9FmCo.jpg

 

Mostly disassembled

LzzQPoB.jpg

 

You can see the innerbarrel here. They cut a hole in it and filled it with weld inside and drilled several holes in the barrel to ensure it can't fire, even if someone managed to clean out all of the welded steel inside in the front and back.

iSiFgj9.jpg

 

I hit the bolt with a brillo pad, then some nevr dull, then more scrubbing to help bring up the shine. I think it worked. It's still dirty and used up, but it's shiney where it counts :D

5y1Z4Nr.jpg

 

It is missing the firing pin though. And you can see where the ship that did the deactivation put some flags there under the numbers.

 

 

 

 

x0VJf8l.jpg

 

Following this great tutorial to modify the magazine. Cut a Sterling Magazine (If you google this search term, it will lead you there, first option.

 

OdQl9aE.jpg

 

CFmQBnN.jpg

 

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So up to now, I've been cleaning this thing and cleaning some more.

 

I'm finally happy with it though.

 

The previous finish after degreasing as dull and sooo very blah, it made we want to paint it. I didn't really get a photo in this condition as it just didn't photograph well.

 

But I took it apart again, washed it with soap and water to get the remaining dirt and nasty away. Note I didn't wash all the parts like this, mainly the main body with a damp tower and long bristle scrubber.

 

Once the stuff was clean again, I fully dried it all off then sprayed it down with WD-40.... which is a serious no-no for a functioning gun, but completely workable for a deactivated weapon. Once the WD-40 finished cleaning off the remaining gunk, it started to get a little more rich in color vs super dull. I put some oil in the lower receiver to keep the trigger mech from freezing up for some reason then I took a cloth that was lightly coated in rapsoil. About the same as Canola oil of other natural flower derived oil. Now it looks beautiful!  I'm ready to start forming the tracks and getting the rest of the parts ready for assembly.

 

bjW2yiu.jpg

W95zpTH.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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That's an old spec by the looks of it so Dennis got hold of an absolute bargain!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

ooo, whats the tell you're using to know the old spec vs new?

 

Does this mean the deactivation spec?

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Well, as far as I'm aware you cannot strip a new spec deactivation Sterling as most of it is welded together. The trigger is welded so won't pull. The bolt is welded so won't pull back, the barrel is welded. A new spec is just a good looking ornament at best.

Old spec is strippable, dry fires etc.

anything 1985 or ealier is old spec. Anything after 85 is new spec.

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There is no new spec and old spec in germany...(harrumphed,harrumphed)

Who's to say it was decommissioned in Germany? Is there a deac certificate from Germany with it?

I only say that as I've shipped a deac to a guy in Germany before so there must be more from the UK floating around over there.

How are they deactivated in Germany? Do they still have all the moving parts over there?

I wonder how many different methods there are for deacs?

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I'm pretty sure the place I got this one did the deactivation. They welded the inner barrel and did a spot weld and a grind over the trigger mech inside. On the inner barrel near the welding and drill holes they put in it is their metal stamp. Granted they might have put it in later.

 

It would be fairly simple to get the parts moving again... if that is what you wanted to do

Edited by Dday
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I wonder how many different methods there are for deacs?

 

From what I've noticed so far there are more versions of deactivation than just old spec and new spec in EU. There are the dry firing ones with full working parts (not allowed in some countries), then there are the ones which have various or most parts working, but not dry firing (some Sterlings have some parts working/moving, some have others, some have all working, but none dry fire), and there are the ones which are completely blocked and welded.

 

There are also the US versions which are cut in a pretty ugly manner...

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Awesome! Looking good. Nothing better than the real thing.

 

Dday, if you get a chance, can you measure the little horizontal slot/ opening on the bolt ? I think its the place where the firing pin goes?

I am replicating this opening on my aluminum bolt plate right now and stuck on exactly how big it needs to be.

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Awesome! Looking good. Nothing better than the real thing.

 

Dday, if you get a chance, can you measure the little horizontal slot/ opening on the bolt ? I think its the place where the firing pin goes?

I am replicating this opening on my aluminum bolt plate right now and stuck on exactly how big it needs to be.

 

No problem!

 

5mm Tall, and 19mm long... but only 13mm of that is showing when the bolt is forward.

 

This is what it looks like with the firing pin in:

gallery_12157_40_12880.jpg

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