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gazmosis

Doopy build...real Sterling folding stock

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Amazing.

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It's strange because on this pic the "Off" is not upside down  :huh:

 Mag%20CUT%208.jpg

 

Anyhow, you're doing great! I'm impressed by your Power Cylinders, you really enhanced them to the top

the end clip IS on backwards in THIS PHOTO

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DSCN1093_zpscb86f807.jpg

 

screws are too large... I'll send the correct ones when I send the clip end and lock.

 

DSCN1072_zps1f78b04d.jpg

 

please fill the dimple in... that is not supposed to be there.  it's on both sides. top and bottom.  make sure the arrow points to the front. and the slight curve you did with the iron also goes on the front.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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Vern,

What size are the screws and nuts actually supposed to be? That's making me crazy trying to find it. Is there a definitive blaster measurements thread/resource that I've simply not discovered yet? (Besides picking your brain...) ;)

Edited by Dark CMF

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it's because I have done research on the power cells with andy.

I have a set of his replicas... and I also have sets of screws from RC race cars that are closer to the correct size

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So are they 4 mil screws? And yes, the mag is the correct direction and I will fill in that dimple.

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5ShapesonmagsALLGREYbsmallerer_zps93a044

 

see the scale? where did you get 4mm?

also see how the center caps are all stacked? and were not assembled with shims?

 

and I think your work is fine... but just like being a DO... the devil is in the details.

 

also the clip offset is created by a notch on the side of the clip, which allows the clip to seat into

the magazine well...

 

FISDsignature600x150_zpse1ec05df.jpg

 

when I get home in 3 days I'll be able to provide photos and comparisons and show the source from

RC car suppliers.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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I had come to the conclusion that they were probably #2 nuts and bolts, but I can't find them on the shelves anywhere... #4s are just too big, in comparing them to the ones in the pictures, and the resin casts on the Doopydoos part.

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If you have ace hardware near you, Tim, they will have whatever size you are looking for.

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I get them from RC car supply stores they are really freakin small man!  I'll post the size when I get home.

I'm helping my 85 year old father.

back in the shop in 3 days... I hope.

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If you have ace hardware near you, Tim, they will have whatever size you are looking for.

Thanks, Steve. I actually hadn't seen any in my area, but a store locator search reveals that there are a couple of them tucked away somewhere down here. I'll check it out next time I'm in town!

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I get them from RC car supply stores they are really freakin small man!  I'll post the size when I get home.

I'm helping my 85 year old father.

back in the shop in 3 days... I hope.

Thanks, Vern. I hope all is going well with your father.

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the screws are so small you won't believe it.  much smaller than most 'replicas'  only andy and a few others have made

the correct bolt/nut sizes.  it's measured in 10ths of an inch... not MM

 

 

andy;s power cells have smaller screw/nut combinations

but this is what I have

 

100_1916_zps2883d3c4.jpg

 

and andy's wonderful work!

 

100_1920_zps5eefa37b.jpg

 

100_1919_zps120a8ff0.jpg

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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After all that.........back to build business! Look!!!! I actually glued a part on!!!!! 2 in fact!DSCN1096_zpsc40183df.jpgWith that setting up, I thought I would move onto the counter.DSCN1098_zpscf51f0d3.jpgA big thanks goes out to UK Simon for working up the number display for me in the TK number of the guy who's blaster this is going to be. Germain also offered up a display, but Simon's was closer to the real font of the numbers. Thank you, though Mr. Horseman!!! I know, Vern, I know, there were no yellow numbers!!! I just thought it looked cool so I went with it. ANYHOO!!!! I printed out a measurement image to get the right placement of everything on the backside of the counter and the display.DSCN1097_zpse4ad5326.jpgFirst thing was first, I needed to make the glass insert. I started with a 3/16th piece of plexiglass.DSCN1099_zps47f69fed.jpgI marked it to approximate size and cut it down.DSCN1102_zps3f6d5a44.jpgI needed to shape the top into a domed shape so I brought it to the belt sander.DSCN1100_zpsb98c92df.jpgAfter removing a good portion of my fingers on the belt sander, I took over with 180 grit to further shap it. DSCN1101_zps34c5eb3f.jpgOnce I was happy with the shape, I began the polishing process. I started with 180-220-320-400-600-1000-rubbing compound on the Dremmel polishing wheel at the lowest speed, to polishing compound with the same wheel. I like the outcome.DSCN1103_zps6f8785a4.jpgHere it is over the number display.DSCN1104_zps56e5dfa4.jpg More a little later

I took Vern's advice and went back to a screw/nut size on the power cylinders that I originally thought was too small. I guess I should have trusted my instincts, but That is why troopers help troopers. To help them make the correct decisions.DSCN1107_zpsde3d493a.jpgDSCN1106_zps5cc5ab57.jpg

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Thanks for sharing the screw and nut info, Vern!

Edited by Dark CMF

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Steve, it is looking brilliant. One day, I'll learn myself to grind and polish up the plexiglass... Looks phenomenal!

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What size are the screws and nuts actually supposed to be? That's making me crazy trying to find it. Is there a definitive blaster measurements thread/resource that I've simply not discovered yet?

 

I'm really enjoying this build thread & couldn't help noticing this being asked a few times.

 

According to my research, the original screws & nuts were 10BAs.  It's an old British size which is quite rare these days. 

The nuts are 3mm across the flats, 3.3mm across the points. The original nuts varied slightly in depth (depending on which Cylinder rack you look at) but the 10BA nuts I use are 1.5mm deep. The bolt diameter is 1.6mm

 

Click any of the links in my signature for some fairly comprehensive Power Cylinders resources.

 

Keep up the great work  :smiley-sw013:

 

Cheers, Andy

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The ones I settled on were 4 MM so I will consider that close enough! Thanks for chiming in Andy!

Thanks to everyone for following and your kind words!!

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Progress continues. Now that I have the glass for the counter readout window, it needs a home to sit in. The end of the counter needs to be fixed. DSCN1105_zps75f087ba.jpgThe mock window needed to be sanded flat. The correct space for the new window was marked.DSCN1109_zpsa2b94361.jpgTo cut out this rectangle and keep the sides straight, I first plunge cut the outline with an flat blade exactoDSCN1110_zpsfe35814a.jpgI then removed material little by little with a flat bottomed grinding bit on the Dremmel until it was deep enough that the glass's profile was correct.DSCN1112_zpsec5c044e.jpgA smaller recess was cut into this rectangle for the readout to sit in. The final result.DSCN1114_zpsb8b612cb.jpgI also needed to cut a recess for the counter reset button below the readout. DSCN1116_zps48db55c4.jpgNext I needed to make the reset button itself from scrap ABS.DSCN1117_zps5707ee0c.jpgThe ends were sanded, it was cut to size and glued in. Pic later. Since this is a fake counter and I donlt have the metal tabs on the end to connect the wires to, I drilled holes in the ends where the wires will emerge from.DSCN1118_zps5f343bd1.jpgSomething else I noticed and confirmed with Vern (thanks...AGAIN)the screw location on the top of the counter is off center.I marked approximately where it should really sit.DSCN1108_zps101fcf26.jpgI will sand/fill the bad screw and put a real one in at a later time. I wanted to switch gears and work on the scope/counter rail. I put a 90 degree bend at the end of a 3/4 aluminum flat bar.DSCN1119_zps302b6217.jpgI measured out the width of the top hole and took material from the left and right sides so that it would fit into the hole. I determined how high I wanted the rail to sit off the receiver body and marked that on the rail. I cut a slot on each side at an upward angle to match the curvature of the receiver.DSCN1123_zpseb31e6e5.jpgI then put a slight outward bend on the lower half to ensure it would never come out of the hole once it was finally attached.DSCN1124_zpsa35c9219.jpgHow the rail looks from the front inserted.DSCN1122_zps70d1a209.jpgI am going to mount the rear of the rail so it sits between the uprights of the rear sight. I marked and trimmed it until it fit nicely.DSCN1120_zps0059dc19.jpgDSCN1121_zpsd9aaa8bc.jpgThis will be held down with a screw between the rear sight at a later time. Now on to dealing with something that has been gnawing away at me. The charging bolt and ejection port.DSCN1125_zpsd26a534d.jpgThere are several problems here that pose challenges. #1 is the incorrect location of the diagonal ridge on the bolt itself. This sits way too high. #2 is the lack of bolt showing in the cocking handle channel behind the ejection port. #3 is the limited inside diameter of the receiver itself. This is how thick the walls are.DSCN1126_zps512ca437.jpgSorry for the bad pic. :P  Anyway, The wall thickness of the real Sterling receiver is 1/16th of an inch. Many people insert a dowel rod into the cavity and top it off with a stack of abs to mimic the bolt sitting near the surface. I was going to try a different approach using a rod alone. The rod is PVC that matches the inside diameter.I drew out my plan to see if the approach was plausible. I drew a cross section showing where the cocking channel is. The small lines just below and on either side of the channel shows the 1/16 wall thickness.DSCN1127_zps054063dc.jpgThe PVC sits in the center like this.DSCN1129_zps99b13e95.jpgI want it to sit here.DSCN1130_zps8e206344.jpgI drew lines and shaded the areas within the tube that I would need to remove material that would allow the PVC to sit closer to the surface.DSCN1131_zps6a36bc99.jpgI grabbed the Dremmel bit that I wanted to use to see if it would fit.DSCN1132_zps994eaff5.jpgIt works on paper (famous last words) Now to carefully grind away. I marked the 1/16 th depth on the sides of the cocking channel so I knew where to stop. Grinding away.DSCN1133_zpsa5e2ad1a.jpgThis was a painfully long process of constantly checking the fit of the PVC within the receiver, then grinding more out. Finally I got to the point where the walls were thin enough to allow the pipe to rise to the surface.DSCN1134_zps92c06f1c.jpgDON'T YELL AT ME! that is not a nick in the lower center of the channel. It came like that. Anyway, with the pipe on a sick to hold it up, the bolt face molded into the ejection port and my pipe actually look like one piece.DSCN1135_zps19a9510e.jpgNow to punch up some reference pics and relocate that diagonal ridge.e11boltz1_zpsbde1c289.jpgYou can see that the ridge sits much lower in the port opening. First I need to grind down that bad ridge.DSCN1136_zps216d1451.jpgUsing reference pics, I marked the right location as well as that......um......other thing above the ridge.DSCN1137_zpse2029d5d.jpgWith this marked, I re-inserted the new bolt rear section to transfer these marks and the location of the charging handle.DSCN1138_zpsd485839f.jpgI will be using scrap ABS for the new ridge on both parts. Next I needed to carve out the.....um...area above the ridge.DSCN1139_zpsdbda6bc2.jpgMy eyes are ruined for tonight. More later.

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