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gazmosis

Doopy build...real Sterling folding stock

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So awesome, Steve!!! My eyes are done reading for the night, too. ;)

 

Thanks, Andy, for the info on the nuts/bolts!!

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when you are done with the base construction, most likely it will be so amazing that you won't be able to tell it from a real

sterling demil?  and hopefully the paintwork will be properly bumpy, as the firing sterlings were painted with surcote

a type of russian paint that creates a bumpy pattern much like zinc parkerization.

 

most people paint the sterling receiver with a smooth finish, and when you look at the films only the T Tracks

sight rail and counter are smooth.  The contrast between the bumps, the smoothness and the paintwork and weathering

really sells the realism.  that and glossy grips... and you'll be looking at a work of amazing art here!

 

did I say amazing enough times?

 

and it's correct to drill out the holes in the counter to put the wires in, as they were not

soldered to the pins... the ;pins werre pulled out and the wires were stuck inside the holes.

 

I don't know how you do it steve... you should work as a dentist making teeth!

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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Holly crap on a cracker Batman!!!!

This is one nice build. All the details are there and they are perfect!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

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I had a LITTLE time this morning to get another issue crossed off the list. Why can;t anything be easy???? UGH!!! Anyhoo........I wanted to deal with the end piece of the charging bolt that will eventually sit in the cocking handle channel. First we need a cocking handle. On the real gun, the handle and its round base fit into a recess in the bolt. I wanted to emulate this but permanently attaching it without the chance of it falling off was my challenge. First, the base round stage on the cocking handle was too thick so I sanded it down a bit.DSCN1140_zpsdc8a37b7.jpgSince the diameter of MY imitation bolt was much smaller than the real one, I sanded the edges to round things off a bit. I has previously marked the location I wanted the handle to rest. I used a forstener bit to drill out the flat bottomed hole the handle would sit on.DSCN1142_zps77223acf.jpgDSCN1143_zpse737f058.jpg This took some practice because too deep and it goes through, too shallow and it sits too high. I needed it just right for my next step. To attach the handle, I wanted to use a threaded stud of some kind with a nut from inside. Easy right? Not really. I had to keep reminding myself that all this needed to be done with the bolt remnant INSIDE the gun cavity. First I located my screw and nut. I matched the drill bit and drilled out the center of flat bottomed hole and threaded it into it. DSCN1144_zpsd2b3767e.jpgIn removing the material for the stage, this didn't leave much material for the threads to bit into. I was hoping I wouldn;t have to use the nut but alas, it was a necessity. Getting a tiny nut onto a tiny screw in a tiny space INSIDE a blaster cavity.............luckily, I had a set of hemostats to grab onto the nut. Every other tool was too wide and wouldn't fit into the pipe end. Ok, now that issue is solved, onto the handle. I put the handle in a drill press vise and drilled out the center.DSCN1145_zps3763af46.jpgUsing the same screw I used to tap the hole in the bolt, I did the same for the handle. The final mounting screw will NOT have a screw head on it. DSCN1146_zpsc9a1da02.jpgI lopped off the screw head and did a test run outside the gun. DSCN1147_zps7c25077b.jpgI grabbed the hemostats to hold onto the screw stud from the inside and hoped for the best. I screwed the the handle onto the threads using the larger hole at the butt end of the channel and it worked out. Nice.DSCN1148_zps1dfc1830.jpg

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Beautiful work, Steve.

 

I can see that any successive builds that I do are going to require some more "workshop" upgrades in order to attain the standard that you're setting with this build!

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I'm watching this closely getting ideas for my full doopy build. There's no way I can see myself, or anyone (sorry peeps) for that matter matching this!

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This group is filled with hugely talented people. Many will do this better than this. Thank you, though, Ian.

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Watching this thread with envy.  Your charging bolt extension is genius.  My frustration level is peaking as I admire your build...I've got an extremely well equipped shop but no parts to work on yet...  Waiting, waiting, waiting...

 

P.S. - Ever find any good photos of your car?  You gave a great description, but I think photos would help motivate buyers...I talked to the owner of the hot rod shop in Addsion and that's the first question he asked - any pictures?

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Your time to sweat and get more gray hairs like me will come, Aaron!!!! Don't envy me...I have become a nervous, emotional wreck!!!!

 

ANYHOO!!!!!

Progress this time began with the last stages of the charging bolt mod. I needed to re-create the diagonal ridge that runs across the bolts face. Regular scrap ABS was way too thick. Luckily, I saved a lot of the PVC scraps from the RS build you see floating in the background. I found one of the thinner pieces and cut a strip to width.DSCN1151_zps78ceeb0a.jpgI began carving out the piece to fit along the lines I previously traced and when it fit right, I glued it in with CA glue. I needed something instant because getting a straight strip of plastic to bend around the side of a cylinder would not have worked with the wait of E6000.DSCN1152_zpsced01f7e.jpgI did the same with the bolt piece inside the gun and it looks nice.DSCN1153_zpseebf9682.jpg  As I see it, I only have one major mod left to do.but before I dive into that, I want to get some of the smaller stuff out of the way. There was a lot of resin flashing that needed to be trimmed off of the ejection port deflector and the similar looking part at the front of the blaster. (no pics...boring)  I re-shaped a bit the lock that sits on the underside just in front of the butt cap. I dug out the front and replaced the through pivot pin with a chunk of finish nail.DSCN1154_zps04b62179.jpgThe doopy rear lock is actually a little boxy. I took this picture with the lock upside down so you could see the ridge that I cut along the length of the lock.  Now Onto the last major mod: The selector switch. 

 

Sorry for the bad pic again, but I noticed this chunk missing from the grip and I can't figure out how that happened.  ???!????!!!!!!??????DSCN1155_zpsfdc44990.jpgGonna have to build that back up with putty. So.................the switch. Obviously my goal is to make it move. I don't trust just gluing it to a stud. You could drill/tap a stud into the handle itself but then you could NOT screw the switch onto the stud without the paddle of the switch hitting the grip. My solution was to use a stud but make a retaining pin that would go through both the switch and the stud inside it. Here were my items for this at the beginning.DSCN1156_zps120f7adf.jpgThe finish nail WAS going to be my retaining pin but I wanted something I could tap into the resin. I used the same tiny screw that I used for the power cylinders.DSCN1158_zps6f546160.jpgFirst thing was to drill out the hole for the main stud.DSCN1157_zps4923aeea.jpgI screwed in the stud and worked it back and forth to make sure the threads were well cut into the resin so it moved fairly easy. The paddle on the switch is not the sturdiest of things!!!! Once I was happy with that, I cut the stud to size and with the same cutting wheel on the dremmel I cut a screw slot and cut the sides down to give me a flat side on either side of the stud to drill my through hole. DSCN1160_zpsdcf6a788.jpgI then drilled my stud and my though hole in the switch itself and threaded the tiny screw through it.DSCN1159_zpsbf852308.jpgI had to trim a little more off the stud because it wanted to thread and I wanted it to just push onto the stud. I adjusted the stud so it lined up with the hole on the switch and threaded the screw securing the switch to the stud. Since I didn;t go all the way through the switch base, I just needed to clip off the tiny screw head and micro-grind the remaining stud flush with the switch base.DSCN1161_zps728cdbec.jpgThe switch movement.DSCN1163_zps33d5ff4e.jpgDSCN1162_zps337c320e.jpgWith that out of the way, I thought I'd end the night with the bayonet lug. This part is also very boxy out of the.....um...box......so that needed some adjusting also. gallery_12157_40_21096.jpgas you can see in this pic of the bayonet lug, it is a bit curved toward the mounting point on the barrel. I marked this on the doopy lug.DSCN1164_zps5e41c319.jpg I used the sanding drum to take off the proper amount of material. I did use studs to glue the lug in for a little security. BUT YES!!!!! I GLUED ANOTHER PART IN!!!!!DSCN1166_zpsb5df70e2.jpg  More for another time.

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I have't figured that one out yet. I think I am leaning back towards the EZ coil radiator hose spring

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ID will need change... and you won't want a real spring anyway?  those are the wrong shape anyway? 

enlarge rear area and use wire wrap... will look better!

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This isn't a pipe build. None of my bits are long or precise enough to further hollow out the receiver between the butt and the bolt. There will always be a give and take factor with doopydoos kits.

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perhaps then the goal would be to simulate the structure as you did with the inner bolt rear?  by bringing the assembly to the top

and only making the channel appear thinner?

or just lop off the end and keep certain parts?

 

if it were me I'd lop off the entire rear, and keep the lug area for the end cap... and just have a real working bolt area.

this way it's just the front and the T Tracks area to keep.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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I don't know if I have any other choice. Even if I opened up the rear opening larger, there is still the ID to contend with. I still have not addressed how I am going to keep all this against the cocking channel. Moving things to the surface leaves a void underneath it.

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Progress. I decided to do a little gluing and filling. This was a very bubbly cast of these parts. Lots of little bubble indents to fill. Oh well. I glued on the shields of the ejection port and the forward vent hole. I let that set and drilled the mounting holes for the scope and set that in place just to see how it looked.DSCN1168_zpsd79a2b66.jpgI wanted next to finish the repair on the grip. Sadly, it was a total fail as the glazing putty didn;t have anything to grip to. I sanded off all I could. After some head pounding, I mixed up a small amount of Plasti-weld. This stuff hardens well, sticks,  and simulates the resin itself. SUCCESS!!!!DSCN1176_zps5de0bc5b.jpgI drilled out the hole for the securing screw for the rear of the scope rail.DSCN1169_zpse713d9a7.jpgI picked up a real counter recently and did a side by side with the doopys. There are several subtle differences between mine and the Doopys one. I will chip out the small channel behind and below the metal connection pins near the main body.DSCN1171_zps222bde36.jpg But one major difference is the bottom.DSCN1172_zpsc78591d7.jpgI will need to build those details back with scrap ABS another time. While I had the counter and scope rail out,  I figured I would make the counter mounter. (I made myself laugh)  I used some scrap sheet steel to keep things thin.DSCN1170_zpsd17c053d.jpgDSCN1175_zps16b62d26.jpgThis will be bent properly and holes will be drilled. However, I promised my daughter I would strip and refinish a table for her room. I went to Menards to get what I needed and while I was there, I picked up two new screws to mount the scope and look what else I found.DSCN1174_zps70f71adb.jpgI needed the spring to be 6 inches total so that it would stick out of the back end of the blaster to keep the butt cap in place. This was the correct diameter for what I needed. IT was a little short at 4 inches but the coil of the spring was too tight. Nothing a little stretching out won't solve. I stretched it and installed it with the new bolt section and butt cap. I think I like it.DSCN1173_zpsa5e80124.jpgWhy can;t anything on this darn build be simple!!!!????

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It is simply inspirational.

 

Great stuff Steve, seriously.

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Thanks, Tim! It's great that we can play blaster build ping pong!!!

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Indeed it is! Imagine the games we'll have when I get good at it! ;)

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Back in the game! There is light at the end of the tunnel and paint will not be too far off in the future. I needed to address a concern with the new inner bolt extension that I built. The problem with it's small diameter sitting in an enlarged inner diameter of the blaster itself is that there is a lot of space that surrounds it now. You can see the bolt sitting on the floor of the blaster when it needs to be sitting against the cocking handle channel above it.DSCN1207_zps4b98cacd.jpgI toyed around with methods of filling the barrel but none made my socks go up and down. Then the idea hit me to pin the bolt against the channel from underneath with a screw. DSCN1206_zps186bf76c.jpgI drilled a through hole and a recess indent for the head. DSCN1210_zps0d2c2d66.jpgThe screw is small but effective in keeping the new bolt pinned to the surface. Sadly you can;t see the screw in the pic but you can see how it holds the bolt against the channel.DSCN1209_zps9950479b.jpgOnce final assembly is complete, the spring will assist even further in keeping anything from ever moving! Next is adapting the new magazine to the mag housing.DSCN1212_zps00b447c1.jpgFirst I needed to measure how much resin I had to work with inside the housing. I intend on using screws to attach the housing to the main receiver and want to leave enough to be stable. The pencil lines indicate how much I have to work with.DSCN1213_zps6a3282e6.jpgNow to determine how much of the magazine I want to sit inside the mag housing. The middle line is where the mag will sit.DSCN1214_zpse73f9552.jpgFor those of you who bought my magazine, this is a personal preference of mine. You may want it sit in the housing without removing any additional housing material. If this is what you choose, the magazine will need to be cut down which is no big deal. If you are reading this for the first time and would like to purchase one of these magazines, go to this thread:http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26677-doopy-dos-replacement-e-11-magazine/   You WILL need to fine tune the fit of the mag to the housing as you will soon see. I will once again use this bit on my Dremmel.DSCN1113_zps2665ab76.jpgI will also use the smaller version of this to fine tune the fit. First, I need to cut down the mag.DSCN1215_zpsd318f415.jpgThe mag housing should sit against the little corners on the retaining clip on the back side of the magazine. I marked on the mag what needed to come off then used the band saw.DSCN1216_zpsed4c4f12.jpgI fine tuned the angle on the belt sander.DSCN1217_zps6db78c4b.jpgNow to start grinding. THIS WAS A PAINSTAKINGLY LONG PROCESS. iT TOOK ME ALMOST AN HOUR TO GRIND THIS OUT. DSCN1219_zps6e35f11b.jpgThis is after some initial progress. However, it is clear that the magazine housing still needed fine tuning.DSCN1220_zps4819b542.jpgThere should be NO FORCING THIS!! It either fits nice or it doesn't. DON'T TRY TO CRAM IT IN!! DSCN1218_zps154e3eff.jpgMore grinding. You can see that I got a bit too close in some areas.DSCN1221_zpsa8e681b5.jpgThank goodness I have a set of power cylinders to cover that up. To give myself a little "forgiveness room", I actually trimmed a little bit off the front of the magazine. I marked what I trimmed in red.DSCN1205-Copy_zps1d9acf35.jpgThis just helped it fit a little easier into the housing. The extra effort was SO worth it. The mag fits great!DSCN1223_zpsf1f9b4bb.jpgDSCN1222_zpsbdabee14.jpgDSCN1224_zpsde799dff.jpgThe gap between the mag housing and magazine at the top is supposed to be smaller. The two should almost touch in this area. This was a slight flaw in the molding of this particular magazine. The blaster's owner said this was OK. With the mag fit complete, I could mount the mag housing itself. I said I was going to use screws but I needed to recess them so I used the same bit to drill a flat bottomed recess.DSCN1226_zps1689614b.jpgI then drilled the through holes larger than the screw threads so they wouldn't grab onto the mag housing. DSCN1227_zps09f3e3ce.jpgI did add just a bit of E6000 as a second line of defense and tightened the screws down.DSCN1228_zps1e6f9f4a.jpgThe housing needed a little adjusting to make sure its final resting spot was correct.DSCN1229_zpse5892b52.jpgDSCN1230_zpsc2c6e3c6.jpgSoon it will be paint time!

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WTF? holy batman!

 

hold on robin... it looks like you're going to hurl?

 

it's ok batman.. I'm good... where is the joker?

 

he's in prison... just look at this blaster thread while I make dinner.

 

DSCN1205-Copy_zps1d9acf35.jpg

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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Looks great! I can't wait to spend a lot of time grinding my mag housing out once I get my new magazine in the mail! And I mean that without sarcasm lol.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Looking great Steve!

 

I didn't think about the potential of grinding out the inside of the magazine well at all. Stroke of genius there, really!

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