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Rob's ANH real Sterling build ( pic heavy )


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After wanting a real Sterling for a while I took the plunge and recieved this in the post today

004cvd.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

After a bit of a clean up I decided the first job I would tackle would be to shorten the mag. First I took it apart and marked with a pencil where I wanted to cut

 

002sat.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

After cutting I put it in a vice and used a hand file to make the two thinner sides of the mag shorter so it would leave the two longer sections so I could form the lips to hold on the end cap

 

004xfx.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

After some fine filing this is what I was left with

 

005aht.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

I replaced the inner spring and slid the cap over and this is how it looked

 

007bm.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

Job done

 

008tqu.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-05-30

 

I will update this thread as soon as I start the next stage of the build which will probably be the scope rail. Thank you for looking :)

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I can't decide on what width scope rail to make. I was going to go with the 20mm as I prefer the look of it to the 10mm. What about doing a 15mm one? What sort of sizes did the screen used Sterlings have? Also, on my pipe build I used bar that was 3mm thick. Should I use that again or go thinner? Decisions decisions.

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3/4" sorry mate!

only way to go!

 

the width of the rail should be just a little smaller than the rear foot of the scope's width.

the scope foot will overhang just a tad..

the scope's rear foot should align with the folding stock swivel.

 

like real!

 

stellar job on the magazine. I did the same thing with a hacksaw and a dremel wheel.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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Thank you Paul. It's good to have you watching. I have managed to get hold of some TCC capacitors for the power cylinders so if anyone wants some just let me know.

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I recieved my lovely T track from Marv today. This is the part of the build that I have been dreading as I have never been able to get the hang of it :angry: . I gave the boiling water method a shot first but wasn't quick enough to get the bend done before the track cooled so I found that the lighter method worked best for me.

001nxay.jpg

By null at 2012-06-01

 

I then roughly shaped the bends with a sharp knife so that the fitted into the barrel holes

004ims.jpg

By null at 2012-06-01

 

After marking where to bend the other end of the track and shaping it I sanded down the track with 1000 grit wet and dry paper then 2000 grit to make a nice shape. This is probably a very long way to go about it but as I said, I'm rubbish at this bit so found that this is the best way for me to get a decent result.

 

005hsj.jpg

By null at 2012-06-01

 

The finished track doesn't look too bad ( I hope. Please tell me if it does )

It does sit nice and close to the barrel along the length which I was pleased about at least.

Two down, four more to go :blink:

 

007mwx.jpg

By null at 2012-06-01

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Thank you Sergiu. I still can't decide on the best way to fit the rear of the scope rail. Does anyone know how they were fitted on screen? I know that some had a bend in them and were screwed to the barrel in front of the rear sight but I would like to fit mine into the rear sight.

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I changed the way my rail is connected too, I added a screw as close as possible to the MR version. Though I won't be taking off my MR blaster anymore, I hate its fragile mirror base.

 

I've seen this picture below, the same way is conencted on my Sterling and on MR.

 

 

 

 

 

30kukvp.png

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Hi,

 

I believe from screenshots that they removed the rear sight and fixed the rail under the bolt of the rear sight.

 

I tried to copy the look on my not fully finished build

 

th_07aa3d40.jpg

 

One can turn the E11 up side down there is no movement of the scope rail and the mounted parts.

 

 

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IIRC the MR indeed has the back sighting removed - have to look at mine when getting home (and I really hate taking it off, since is on the top shelf and that mirror base is fragile as hell). But personally I prefer the sighting left in place.

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Thank you Stefan. Keep searching. I'm sure you will find one eventually and it will be worth it.

I finished up my T tracks today.

001iic.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

 

My next job was to make the scope rail using Billhag's template as a guide. I went with the 2mm thick flat bar in the end. I used 3mm for my pipe build and I thought it looked a little too chunky. I like how the thinner bar looks.

002rxz.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

I went with steel as it shouldn't sag as much as aluminium and I want to weather it once painted and let the steel show through in some places. I took some time to get the curvature right so that it sits nicely against the barrel

004qkuaff.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

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By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

*EDIT* I wasn't holding the back down all the way. It does sit even. Honest :P I think it sits nice and even along the length of the barrel and looks to be about the right distance away.

005rbl.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

I decided to leave the rear scope in place. I just have to drill a small hole in the rail to fix it down.

006nxp.jpg

By bsac15 at 2012-06-03

 

I suppose the next job is to get a scope and fit it so that I can then make a bracket for the Hengster and make sure that it is positioned correctly.

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