Aker amp w/ PTT cable shorting out due to moisture.

[kevster[TK]]

I'm sure you could just tear the balloon off and then rub off the e6000 still stuck to the wire and then redo it. Even if you cant get all of the e6000 off, you could still just put more ontop of it. You don't need a lot, just put a little on and then twist the balloon to compress it and it will help put a water tight seal on it. E6000 is pretty flexible if you ask me, and since its at the end of the cord, it doesn't get bent all that much since that's where the little bit of heat shrink is so its harder to bend in that spot.

[KevZone[TK]]

Two things that I've done that seem to work...FIRST OFF let me say I'm using a home-made PTT, not one that I bought from anyone so this may not work exactly for you the way it does for me.

 

#1 - to hold the PTT switch in place, I use a common band-aid. I use a hole puncher to punch a hole through the part with the cotton guaze and then just apply the band-aid over the switch and to my finger with the push button sticking through the hole I made. So far, the band aid has been the best solution for keeping the switch from moving. I've tried electrical tape, first aid tape and even sewed an elastic band to attach the switch to but I've gotten the best results with a normal common every day band aid.

 

#2 - to seal the back of the switch where there are exposed metal leads, I simply coat the back of the switch with liberal amounts of hot glue from my glue gun. I coat the entire back surface of the switch where the leads are, where the wire connects. Then once the glue cools off completely, I use an X-Acto hobby knife (with a brand new blade) to shape and cut away the excess glue so that the switch will fit in my glove. If you don't do this last step, the big glob of glue will keep you from being able to get your finger inside the finger of the glove.

 

I've had pretty good results with these and use the PTT on my TK and my Vader...and I sweat bucket loads in both of those costumes.

Edited September 2, 2011 by KevZone

[Spectre]

I must admit, none of this makes much sense to me at the moment But I will be keeping a close eye on this topic for when I start making my own suit, I think I might have the same problem with the sweating hands, unless I use a different method of activating the mic. Good luck on finding a solution though!

[KevZone[TK]]

I did try locating the PTT switch at the bottom of my chest armor on the inside just above where the ab buttons are but it was a total pain having to reach up and press the button every time to talk. I saw somewhere that a guy had mounted the switch behind one of his ab buttons. I thought that was pretty creative, but still having to reach up and press the button is a problem - especially when you're holding your blaster and someone wants to shake your hand or give you a fist bump.

 

So far I've had the best results with mounting the switch to my left index finger and pressing it with my thumb. That way I can still shake hands with a fan while holding my blaster in my left hand AND inconspicuously press the button to talk.

Edited September 3, 2011 by KevZone

[Woulf[TK]]

I was thinking of a similar solution as kev brought up. i work on digital billboards, and of course the worse thing that can happen is moisture gettig into the display. To help combat this we cover the regular chips that stick up on the boards with 100% silicon caulk. its completely water tight, and also flexible. I dont have one of these systems (yet) but just curious if this could be a possible remedy. just by coating around the switches open areas, let cure and trim off the excess?

[gazmosis[501st]]

Both silicone and Plasti-dip have already been considerations. I tried the platidip to caot the back of the unit where the exposed metal was visible which was great but the actual PTT button is NOT a sealed unit. Any moisture that would be present on the PTT unit would seep inside when the button was depressed. Step #2...try coating the whole thing with 100% silicone. I tried a thin and thick coats. The thin coat was worn through almost instantly, and the thick coat grabbed onto the button not allowing it to return to the "off" position. AAAAARG!!

A great idea, though!! Thanks for your input. Oh!!!!!!! Hey Steve!

[gazmosis[501st]]

O.K. I was buying supplies for a job I'm on and found a bag of thin, exam gloves in the stripping and finishing dept. at Home Depot. $1.98 was the whopping cost. I had a troop at a high school, and although short, my hands still got plenty hot in the rubber gloves. I am glad to report that ALL moisture was kept inside the exam glove and away from the PTT button!!!!

[SHEEPDOG54[TK]]

Okay guys, I have been reading this entire thread and wanted to let all of you know that rubber balloons and gloves to include latex condoms all are pouris at a microscopic level. That means that even the smallest water molecule will get through and eventually soak your push to talk button. So all the glue in the world around the balloon isn't going to stop this.

[27555[TK]]

Okay guys, I have been reading this entire thread and wanted to let all of you know that rubber balloons and gloves to include latex condoms all are pouris at a microscopic level. That means that even the smallest water molecule will get through and eventually soak your push to talk button. So all the glue in the world around the balloon isn't going to stop this.

 

This might be true for water balloons but that is completely opposite of what a latex condom is. How would a Latex Condom protect against pregnancy & STD's if it wasn't completely 100% Waterproof at a microscopic level. Give facts, not opinions next time.

 

The main issue with using a condom is most of them are pre-lubricated, and even besides that they are thin and would probably tear on the button.

[Jeepfrog[TK]]

I have been using a ballon for the switch then I hold the cable to my finger with a rubber finger bandage I got from the drugstore they seal your finger from the glove and allow the ballon to keep out the moister

 

Added photo

 

Edited May 7, 2012 by Jeepfrog

[SHEEPDOG54[TK]]

I did give you a fact. condoms are not 100 percent. Read the box. Im telling you fact because I was a CSI for 5 years on the Joliet Police Department until I was promoted to Sergeant. If millions of sperm fit on the head of a pin do you really think a latex condom will stop those critters or STDS for that matter. Also, we used to have to double glove because DNA through your sweat glands could contaminate the crime scene and we could also transfer our latents( finger prints through the rubber gloves if they got wet enough. Again a fact not my opinion.

[SHEEPDOG54[TK]]

The polyurethane condoms are 100 percent non porous and a bit more expensive.

[sarge]

No problem Steve. I am curious to see if anyone has any solutions...

 

yeah, i even tried a different location and different button all together.. it worked fine for the first hour than boom...it went dead. I had to get rid of the icomm box sadly and run the mic rite to the amp. kinda sticks because i really like the static bursts.. just cannot get the darn thing to work 100%

[KevZone[TK]]

I have the Aker amp but made my own PTT cable/switch from spare parts I had around and quickly ran into the shorting out issue due to sweat from my hands. The way I solved it was to take my hot glue gun and cover the entire switch (except for the part I actually push) in hot glue. Basically encasing the switch in a thick layer of hot glue. That pretty much water-proofed it. Of course once the hot glue had cooled off, I took an X-Acto knife and carved away as much of the excess glue as I could and still left the switch in a cacoon of hot glue. It helps to have a brand new blade in the knife and to make sure the glue is completely cool, even cold if possible. That'll help to make sure it fits inside the finger of your glove. So far I've trooped repeatedly with this set up and it hasn't shorted out at all, and my hands do sweat a lot. I've used it with my TK and my Vader and it has worked for me.

Edited July 24, 2012 by KevZone

[Geaux Saints[TK]]

Anyone have a close up shot of the actual button you push? I'm just curious because I've never seen one.

[TK-42779[501st]]

Okay sorry if I am missing something but I had looked at the icomm/aker setup and, why don't people use the voice activated feature instead of the ptt?

[YouCantBe Sidious[TK]]

I read this and started thinking about lamb skin... Just kidding...

[bigironvault]

Okay sorry if I am missing something but I had looked at the icomm/aker setup and, why don't people use the voice activated feature instead of the ptt?

 

It's a good question because I used VOX and only once has it ever clicked unexpectedly (when I sort of made an "omph" sound while jumping off an escalator). I personally love the VOX - no issue so far even with two squirrel fans blowing right at it.

[Evilboy[501st]]

No offense to your fine work Jim, but I cut off the included switch and upgraded to a heavier duty switch, then heat-shrinked each contact separately, the another heat-shrink tube over that, then sealed it with e-6000. so we'll see how that works at CVI

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

Jim sells a ppt with a little surface mount switch like this one:

 

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97

 

I have a ton of them around.

 

I had problems with the solder joint breaking more so than shorting out from finger sweat. I'll post my solution someday that involves hot glueing a paperclip for strain relief, two layers of adhesive heat shrink and way too much hot glue.

 

Aloha,

 

-Eric