kevster

He got it for free and just wanted to make sure it wasn't anything special before he started hacking away at it is all. It obviously wasn't a TK, but I was thinking maybe it could have been some kind of clone since I don't know exactly how they all look. Those knee plates are pretty sweet lookin though.

Ya really. When he sent me this picture. The first thing I said back to him is " that's some janky stuff man" haha.

No bucket, and the only other pics are a few close ups of the armor that is shown. So no additional info can really come from them.

A friend got a big box of stuff to mess around with and got in contact with me to try and see if I knew who might of made it. I have absolutely no idea. Is it some kind of very early stage FX armor or something? He said the plastic is quite thick. As you can see, the armor is very peculiar, especially the riged knee guards on both shins. There are also some weird black pieces too. Any info would be great, thanks guys. ------------

I didn't have rare earth magnes either, just some basic ones and clamps. For my build I took it slow, just glue one side at a time. I also used a combonation of all 3, clamps, tape, magnets. Here you can see how I was doing my armor with my shins. I glued the fronts first then after they cured for a day glued the back and wrapped everything with tape at the end as you can see I did to my bicep piece in the bottom of the photo.

I know this is old, but I wanted to say this so others might find it just in case. Something you can try at home. Whenever I had the system out, everything laying on the floor it would work flawlessly. As soon as I set it up in my suit for a troop it was nothing but problems. I tried different things to help but none worked until I had the thought that maybe my gloves were the problem. When I usually set up the PTT, I had it taped to my finger with the button facing away from my finger. This allowed 2 layers of glove material to cusion the button and not hold it well. I turned the button the other way so it faced towards my finger. So now when I press on the button, I push on the back of it and push the button directly into my finger. It was simple as that. My mic system went from being useless to working 95% of the time now. The 5% is mainly from the button slipping out of place so it takes a little fiddling to find out the best position for it, but it is an amazing difference.

You may have already mentioned this and I didn't see it, if so i'm sorry. I was wondering if you had thought on how you would set the buttons up so you can actually use the trigger and other switches on the gun?

For me, I have found it is absolutely impossible to use the system without the PTT. Every time I try it in VOX it is a distaster. The slightest breath or movement makes it go off. Also, if you stop talking for about half a second then it will click off and it can interrupt you and it takes about a second or 2 to activate again. So if you have a brief pause or are kinda slow then it can cut you off. As someone else mentioned, if you have to cough or clear your throat or maybe if you just mumble to yourself, with PTT then it wont be broadcasted to everyone.

I took after Tim Bell and just glued a flat piece of extra plastic to some foam then glued that inside the drop box.

Paint is pretty cheap. It shouldn't be any more than 10 bucks total for all 3. I got the black and gray testors for 1.39 each and the model master blue for 3.29 at hobby lobby. It will be good to have the paint too in case it gets knocked around and paint chips off.

Could we possibly get more pictures on the scope reticule and how you did it please? Hands down, you now have the most impressive E-11 in the world! FANTASTIC WORK!

As far as I know, not a single peice is ready for molding yet. So its still very much in its infancy. Theres still a lot of work needed on this. Once school is over with, I might try and get into this a little bit more and help out. Since this is joker squad stuff, there will also need to be a few male peices as well. Thing I'm worried about is the helmet.... its already hard enough seeing out of a TK and joker squad helmet lenses are about half the size.

Well, i'm not too sure about this one but what they usually do for computer fans is record the noise they make at 12v. If its running at lower volts then it wont be spinning as fast and in turn, make less noise. So on the site it has 33.4 dB, but I would think that would be at full load. Not too sure though, just a thought.

Heres mine, I'm 6 foot and don't really have a problem with the back and kidney. I did what jesse said, I have snap plates at the bottom of the back and the top of the kidney thats held together with black elastic. My problem mainly lies with how much of a gap there is in my legs. But for some reason it doesn't seem so bad on other people. Post some picks up please when hes got everything.

that's pretty awesome. Maybe I'll make one of those too.

The screw looks fine. The TD looks a little long, it should be about 7.5" from end to end. Like the above is stated, you might have to lower your thigh ammo belt You could maybe take a little off the inside of your fore arms. They look like mine and how mine are is I took off all the return edge, but the armor has a slight curve inwards at the end. It looks like that how it is in the movies too, so I kept that curve but took off what was a sharp return edge.

I probably made it a lot more complicated than it needed to be but I'll explain how I did it. I mostly sewed it but it can probably all be glued together too.------

Well, if you have a thinner leather that doesn't really want to hold its shape, you might be able to get a piece of plastic then heat bend it to be slightly bigger than the shape of your gun then glue it in. That way the plastic piece will keep it open. It would also be beneficial to glue it in towards the top so in a way it will act like a funnel. Once you get the gun in the top it will just slide in. I made my own holster from the TM plans that Vern showed out of some 5oz leather which is somewhat thick. After I was done with it though it was a little flat so it was hard to get my gun in. So what I do from time to time is stuff newspaper in it and let it sit so it stretches out the leather a little to make it wider.

Just got finished with this, what do y'all think? This is on my ATA bucket. I'm going to be trooper santa for my little cousins at christmas and knew its too late to order one so I went out to hancock fabrics to try and make my own. Made my first one a little too small so then I took the next couple hours to draw a template so I could get it right the next time. I guess I got lucky.

I use this one. I can fit everything but my helmet inside there.--------- Plano sportsman trunk Product Height (in.) : 14 Product Length (in.) : 37.75 in Product Width (in.) : 18.25 Stanley storage bin Product Depth (in.) : 23 Product Height (in.) : 23 Product Length (in.) : 37 in

Heres a few to look at. -------- Its good to use washers on the back of rivets because if you don't, it could begin to warp the plastic around the hole. Yes, most hardware stores will sell rivet washers right next to all the boxes of rivets. You should probably get a package that has 2 different sizes with different lengths of each size. Its up to you though on what rivets you want to use and it depends on what you are going for. If you just want a basic suit to wear then 1/8 are ok, but if you want to get EIB then I would suggest using bigger sized rivets like 3/16 or 5/32.

Theres that, or what I did is simple. The end caps didn't actually fit on my PVC pipe when I went to make mine, so I went very slow and sanded down the pvc pipe ends until it was a snug fit. Now all i have to do is pull the cap off to get to my keys if i'm ever trooping alone or have no place to store our stuff.

Ya, not too sure how it all works with the AP having no return edge since mine does but I was having the "bubble butt" problem too. On mine I have 1 snap in the middle of the but plate, then one on each side at the edge. I was able to remedy it by making the elastic in the back kinda tight with the elastic on the edges just enough so there was very little of a gap. So tight in the back and then somewhat snug on the sides. The other thing I did that probably helped the most is I just got rid of the elastic between the butt plate and the cod piece at the bottom. Because if you think of it, what its doing if its tight is pulling in the bottom of the butt plate and making the top angle.

Well, I wanted someone else to chime in first since I had never really looked at the ICN trooper but I tried to go through everything on the list and it looks like you got it all. When I had first looked it threw me off a little bit because I think the only ICN I looked at had black drop boxes and yours looked white but then I saw from the close ups that yours were gray which is what centurion says. I think it all looks good man, if you had done a dark gray on the drop boxes I think it would of stuck out too much but that light gray blends in with the rest of the suit pretty good.

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