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TK-3747 requesting ANH EIB status


Topgun

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drop box straps deff should be white, something looks funny about the batterpak on your knee, but i dont know... might just be how FX looks there. :P i'm not too sure, not a big deal, it just looks funny to me. also... in another EIB thread i made comment about the guys shoulder straps looking connected knowing they werent just complimenting them basically, so i dont wanna be the guy that always says the same thing... but are your shoulder straps connected in the back? their supposed to hang freely or held with elastic. and finally the plastic section of the belt i THINK the corners should have a 45 degree cut to them, but dont quote me on that... it's not a must have, so you're probably fine there.

 

over all looks great for an FX and you did a wonderful job :)

 

minor tweaks and you should pass easily

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Hi Tyler. Along with the tips mentioned above, here's a few fixes that can help make your FX build be a little more accurate. Not all of these are necessarily required from an EIB standpoint, but I think they are just good build tips in ensuring that the quality of the build is the best it can be with not too much effort.

 

5472572772_cde48e1d71_z.jpg

 

Torso:

- can you adjust so that it sits an inch or so higher? You may need to bend / curve the shoulder bridges a bit more with a heat gun, but it will sit better and not cover the ab buttons. You could also modify the lower return edge on chest but trimming it to a slightly more accurate shape and adding a return edge. I have indicated this area with the solid red lines.

 

- the black elastic you're using to connect the chest to the back on the side under your arms is OK to use, but it should not be visible. Can you place it higher so that it's black on black?

 

- the torso will look a lot better if the shim you're using is not fabric. You can use scrap ABS or styrene plastic, or use the back of a plastic "for sale"sign. There are some tips in this tutorial re: shimming

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12478

 

- I think the original FX belt armor had the rivet covers molded into the armor. As such, it looks like you have a visible rivet or bolt head visible. Can this be hidden (glue a snap plate to the underside of the belt armor, and bondo over the hole?) Also, the belt ends look like they have been trimmed a bit too much in length. Regardless, you should trim the belt armor corners are 45 degrees like these pics.

 

other belt end

 

Arms:

- try and adjust the elastic so that the shoulder bells are evenly positioned. Your right bell is leaving a much bigger gap than the left.

 

- I would raise your forearms a bit and lower the biceps a bit to reduce the black gap at the elbows

 

Legs:

- try and adjust the thighs (are they hanging on elastic or garters?) so that they hang evenly left and right. Your right one is twisted and hanging too low.

 

- the battery pack on your right thigh seems to have been cut too short and it's sitting high. It should look like the reference picture above. There's a full leg assembly tutorial here in regards to how to assemble this piece

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials/thighsshins.html

 

- it's a little hard to tell in the pics, but you might want to double check that you have the correct shin halves assembled, or maybe they are swapped left for right? They might be fine, but just double check. :)

 

Again, not to say you have to do everything. But these are some tips to help get you on your way. :) Good luck with your EIB app!

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- the black elastic you're using to connect the chest to the back on the side under your arms is OK to use, but it should not be visible. Can you place it higher so that it's black on black?

 

 

what if he used white elastic there? then it'd be white on white... i ask because that's my game plan. not installed yet, but it's in the works, actually i did everything aside from install it today. i'm on break. :P

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I don't think the white elastic would pass, that's just my guess. If you rig the black one a little higher, no one will notice. Or don't use one at all and use the "practical" strapping where there's an elastic that connects the chest to the ab, that will prevent the chest from hinging outwards.

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Panda, the sholder bells and thigh are ok, they look like that because i was "folding" my body to get into the corner... plus the person taking the pics is 8... :P

Edited by Topgun
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drop box straps deff should be white, something looks funny about the batterpak on your knee, but i dont know... might just be how FX looks there. :P i'm not too sure, not a big deal, it just looks funny to me. also... in another EIB thread i made comment about the guys shoulder straps looking connected knowing they werent just complimenting them basically, so i dont wanna be the guy that always says the same thing... but are your shoulder straps connected in the back? their supposed to hang freely or held with elastic. and finally the plastic section of the belt i THINK the corners should have a 45 degree cut to them, but dont quote me on that... it's not a must have, so you're probably fine there.

 

over all looks great for an FX and you did a wonderful job :)

 

minor tweaks and you should pass easily

The backplate is not attached to the straps...

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Armor

* Shoulder straps should not be attached with rivets, and should free float in the back rather than being permanently attached. DONE

* Armor side gaps should be closed. This should be done by adding a shim or shims of material that must be of similar material and color as the ab and back plate. Shims should fit flush and may have seams. Ideally they will be seamless if possible to the ab and/or back plate, resulting in a single seam between the ab/back rather than extra seams for where the shims are joined.DONE

* O2 canister should be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and should be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint. DONE

* Holster should be attached to the belt from behind instead with no loops covering the outside of the belt, using two fasteners at the bottom. These may be rivets or Chicago screws.DONE

* Belt must be canvas or canvas covered, leather and vinyl are not acceptable.DONE

 

HelmetDONE

* Correct hovi mike tips.

* Lenses should be flat green only.

* Ears should have three screws used per side, one above and below the ear bump and one at the base of the helmet

* Ears should have four bumps only instead of three

 

IMPORTANT: FX helmets are NOT considered acceptable for Expert Infantryman qualification

 

BlasterDONE

 

* Folding stock (does not need to function)

* Hengstler counter

* D-ring on the rear

* Correct style scope

* Two power cylinders on the magazine

* Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast.

-- Total of 6 T-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered)

* Hasbro blasters:

-- Total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the original Hasbro rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the original Hasbro "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the original Hasbro lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes)

-- Hasbro blasters are discouraged but allowed

* No ESB/ROTJ greeblies on the blaster are allowed

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Sorry to be a stickler for detail, but your side gaps are not plastic. They look like vinyl or fabric and the EIB guideline states it should be a similar material to the armor.

 

Your TD clips also need to be 1" wide, they look a bit thin currently.

 

I also think you should make the cut on the butt plate a couple inches lower than it is right now, it looks a little too high.

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blowup.gif

I used the same clips as many others...

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=13612

 

The side plate is a binder cover... where the heck to i get plastic?!!!

 

Can i just take em off like this guy?

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=2861

Edited by Topgun
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sorry to chime in late, i had some RL stuff to take care of...

 

overall i can see you made some of the fixes and it looks better. but please be sure to look over the first part of the ANH crl

 

MUST HAVE

 

Armor

* Made from ABS, HIPS, or fiberglass. Must be in proportion to what was seen in ANH. Accepted styles are the: FX/GT, ANH styles from AP, TE(2), SDS, RT, TM, and LAWS. Also accepted are fan sculpts that are similar in size and proportion. Armor must be white. The armor must be fitted to the wearer through trimming and shimming.

 

i am willing to let the TD clips pass, as it does not specify an "exact" measurement in the requirements..

 

but the side shims must be plastic

100_4345.jpg

 

also the chest plate needs to be adjusted to fit (the chest should not cover the AB buttons), i think if you move the shoulder straps down some it will bring up the chest, currently the chest is riding too low. you can see the misaligned the chest and back plate on the side shot posted above. perhaps try that before doing any trimming..

 

ideally i would like to see all of these fixes done that Terry pointed out

5472572772_cde48e1d71_z.jpg

 

lastly it looks like your shin armor is fitted incorrectly. the Velcro should be on the inner most edge of the shin

100_4349.jpg

 

it should be like this

4330845442_775b396312.jpg

 

the reception center armor tutorials will have all the information you need to make these fixes

 

if you have any questions feel free to ask ;) just keep up the good work, your almost there :duim:

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Hang steady Tyler - in truth some of these items should have been caught by your GML under "properly fitting costume", and some of the recommendations people give are "nice to haves" but not technically required. Fortunately, most of these are adjustable.

 

For instance the strap that adjusts the chest/back can simply be mounted higher. On my first FX it was similar to yours but I had only a 1" strap. This time I have the strap mounted higher so it clears the ab/kidney. The FX is a bit more challenging to get there than other kits, but as you can see from past thread it's certainly do-able with a bit of TLC.

 

I know it's a bit rough to get the pushback esp. as not all is EI related, but my first TK too was rejected, and even my second EI rejected for adjustment. Yes, some get easy passes, for others we just take a bit of time so you're in good company. What matters is being there in teh end, and knowing that your suit looks fabulous.

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