Burge

So true, now that I think of it I am surprised I don't get more errors

I have always gotten the error message while on my work computer, never at home. That has been going on for about a little over year now. Nothing has changed with the server change. Defiantly a user end problem from what I can see. I use IE at both sites, but I am not sure what version I am using at work.

Well, I am 5'9" 220lb and fairly close to your measurments. My recommendation is RT-Mod. The parts are slightly larger than FX and in my opinion a more accurate fan sculpt. The helmet is the correct size and more idealized vice asymmetrical. I did have to shim the thighs, there was about a 1 inch gap also need a shim on the ab plate and that was about 1 1/2 gap on each side. ----------

I don't think it will be as hot as people imagine, but more like a motorcycle helmet. Plus I think it will help to keep the condensation down, so it might help keep lens fogging to a minimum since there won't be a layer of hot air between me and my bucket. People who wear the FX helmets have so much room they could put box fans and AC units in their lids, but for correctly sized helmets this might be a good alterative. I just ordered one today to give it a try.

Another option you could try is once you have installed the rivet, punch out the nail head that was used to flare the rivet and then flatten the protruding portion with a hammer. I did that on mine to help reduce snags on my undersuit.

I did see that in the "should have" section. I figured if we were reviewing the CRL and since it isn't currently official yet, this is a great time to update it. All too often I see new troopers with the boxes in the wrong position I.E. in front of their thighs vice the correct location at the ends of the plastic ammo belt. I am not sure if this happens because of the FX instructions say to mount them with black elastic to the front or what, but this seem like the right time to change it? I don't think it is a "raising the bar issue", but more along the lines of correct assembly in the first place. Since the CRL will be used by new recruits as a guide putting their kits together and GML's for approving new Stormtroopers we might as well do it right. The way its worded now isn't specific on the drop box position other than "in the front" which is not correct. I don't think black elastic was used in any of the movies to attach the drop boxes, so again I see it as correct assembly vice raising the bar issue.

I think the drop box section should read more like this: * Drop Boxes, which dangle from the ends of the plastic belt (TK ammo belt) via white straps. just my $.02

I had to shim my thighs too. I used about 1 to 1-1/2 inch shim rivetted in place. The Velcro shim I tried first was just too bulky looking to me. Looks like you could do the something similar on yours. -----------

Glad to hear you and your family are ok, sorry for the deductable and the tool of a state trooper you had to deal with.

You can use the Tie clip powered microphone from the same store or you can mod the board with a resistor to take a non powered microphone .

Looking good, One thing I noticed is the positioning on the drop boxes on your belt. I am not sure why this is my pet peeve. It must be in the FX instructions or something? The drop boxes should be positioned at the end of the ABS portion of your belt where you have the rivets not under the first raised box. You've done a great job putting your gear together!

Looks awesome!

A third option that you didn't mention, I think RT-Mod would suit you well also. It was molded with the larger trooper in mind and has an accurate helmet. The RT was an easy kit to assemble and the helmet came pre assembled and should be the armor of choice for anyone thinking their only option is FX for size. I believe the price point is right in-between FX and AP

Easy fix just add Velco between your belt and armor to support the weight of your blaster. As long as your not trooping with a MR or an all metal blaster you should be fine.

I have found being able to bend/sit is not how butt/cod are cut , but how the thighs are cut.

For what it’s worth, I would go with the entire RT-Mod kit. I too have a full RT set up and love it. It looks more accurate and the helmet is top notch (symmetrical) lots of people upgrade their FX lid to RT. The ab front and back will require less or no shimming to close the gap for elite ANH look. If you subtract the cost of the helmet there really isn't much cost difference between the FX and RT, just my 2 cents

Looking good Brad, I too am a larger trooper and had some fitting issues. I have a full RT set up. On my thighs I mocked up the back of the thighs where the lower edge overlapped more then the top with duct tape. I trimmed a wedge shape piece off so the bottoms so they where more form fitting and less "barrel thigh" looking and rivetted my shim in place. The Velcro shim I tried first was just too bulky looking to me. Looks like you could do the something similar on yours. Just a few other things I noticed about your set up. The drop boxes on the belt should have a white strap and also be centered on the tabs at the end of the belt and not hang directly in front of you and on the right thigh/knee the part should be rounded along the bottom edge I know the FX kit includes the metallic tape for the thermal detonator, but I am not sure if it is screen accurate? Just curious what method did you uses to attach your butt plate?

I had a similar problem with my knee plate. I just applied a little heat with a heat gun and with even pressure angled the knee plate into a better more accommodating angle clear of my knee cap. I didn't have to move it to far. Your description also leads me to believe that your thighs might sit too low cause the plate should be right at your knee cap

here you go--------

It looks like they used the knee part for shoulder straps and the brow on the helm is way too short. Just looks like an early fan-made suit to me.

Congratulations!! Soon all of GT's TK will be elite...well maybe

The hard hat liner might be good for those oversized FX buckets, but any normal sized helm padding wins hands down!

The good thing about the shims is they don't have to be permanent. Right now they are 1.25" and if I need to change it just drill out the rivets on one side and make the adjustment and re-rivet.

I needed to shim my thigh armor and I used a vertical vinyl blind that had 3 inch slats. I bought the blind a home depot for around $12. The slats are a fairly good match for the ABS. I also used to to fill the gap between my ab plate. I trimmed and riveted the vinyl in place. I tried it with Velcro first, but it looked too bulky. Hope this hepls --------------