Burge

Why do you need bubble lenses. Isn't it already set up as a stunt helmet or are you filling in the last tooth hole and repainting it for hero style?

Here is a option for glasses under the bucket. Regular frames might be too restrictive, but in the military people use rubber frames which accept perscription lenses for wear under Gas masks and SCBA firefighting face masks. -------------- Description/Features NSN #: 6540-01-104-0304 (48mm) and NSN #: 6540-01-107-4509 (50mm) Non-reflective, self-adjusting nylon frames Accept prescription or sunglass lenses Adjustable rubber headband USA Available in 48 mm or 50 mm Black or Tan since not everyone has access to perscription military eyewear, they are also sold at Combat Eyewear

The closest match to the blue in Testors brand I have found was the #1110 Blue. I did mine over a gray primer and they came out great.

Not only that, they look like regular troopers not Sandtroopers. I also hate the big creature taking up the entire screen when luke pulls up to the trooper check point in his speeder AND :rodian: HAN SHOULD SHOOT FIRST !!

looking good Jim. I think alot of people will get hit on the corners of the belt. I know Bernard hit me on that too. I think to clear it up the belt referance needs to be added to the elite requirements for ANH stormtrooper as of now I didn't see it covered.

There where pictures? Did I miss them...

As far as using the snaps… I did that first and they look ok, but are sized too big. There almost the same size as the FX. If you don't care about accuracy or elite status then the snaps will work just fine. Your best bet is buy a set from VaderDave for $10 + shipping or make them your self with the ¼ Tandy screw posts and ¼ nylon spacer or a couple of washers.

Tandy leather supplies screw posts a very good alternative to the large FX buttons suppplied with your kit. Screw Post 1/4" Nickel Plated Steel 10/pk

The only time I have seen the error message was when I didn't have any new posts to see. Other than that it has worked fine on Wndows NT at work and XP at home.

The face shield kiyotei is refering to is the same thing your talking about. Some people say use "Shade 5" but that is way too dark. The "Shade 3" is great not too light not too dark. The face shield I uesed is made by: Jackson Protective Faceshields Shade IR/UV # 3.0. You can pick them up at any welding supply store and cut into a few lenses so if you mess a set up it is no big deal.

I wear the underarmour cold gear and I have my neck seal over the cold gear and it covers the emblem just fine.

Some people use the cold gear shirt and pants from underarmour and they work great. The two piece is a better option if you need to make a pit stop also. I don't think they make a full body suit. Another option is to use a lycra dive skin.------------

I am not talking about "split rivets", but run of the mill aluminum 1/8" pop rivets which you can get in white to better match the ABS. I use the ARROW e-z pull brand, they seem easier to pull and don't crack like other brands.

Home Depot or Lowe's will have a rivet gun. They should be under $20 for a set with rivets included. I would recommend using 1/8" diameter rivets. the 3mm grip is a little too short for going through two pieces of ABS. I would get the next size up so you can back it with a flat washer.

Looks more like make-up smear, plus there were no shoulder straps on the sandtrooper suits

I wanted to paint my helmet once I got it. I felt it gave it a more finished feel and my components would blend in. I didn't really care for the white helmets looking so cluttered with wires and fans. When I got my helmet it was already assembled so I didn't want to take it apart to paint it. It's an RT-mod similar in size to AP. Kiyotei thread "Starting to build my AP armor" under the section "AP/TE2 Armor - Building and Discussion" has some good photos of the painting and helmet assembly. I used the krylon plastic flat black spray paint which works great and dries fast. I just made sure to mask the helmet real well before painting. The krylon bonds real well to the plastic and I have not had any issue with the paint pealing from the helmet where I have add attachments (fans / amp etc..). I wouldn't recommend masking or leaving spots for your accessories. I had to shift things around and change configuration around to best utilize the limited helmet space. You might find items fit better in different spots after a troop or two. I used Velcro to attach everything so if I wanted or upgrade my bucket or change my system out it would be hassle free. Right now I have a radio shack voice amp powered by 1 9volt battery, a powered mic, and two 12volt fans. I used 2 12volt remote control batteries that are half the size of 1 9volt battery to power my fans to save space. I could remove everything if need be. Speaker wires are attached with a plug connector so that if needed they could be the only remaining item in the helmet. I see if I can upload some photos for reference.

PM sent

Testors also makes an enamel thinner (1148) works great and it won't damage the ABS.

I went to the big orange home store and bought a vertical blind with 4-inch slats for around $10. The slats are gloss white vinyl 7 foot by 4 inch, I think there were about 20 slats anyway. The vinyl is very flexible, has a slight curve, but still sturdy, and blends very well with the armor. I used this stuff for any shim or snap. It was also easy to cut with just scissors, which made trimming simple. I used rivets instead of Velcro to keep the pieces closer together. This is my RT, but would work for AP also. Inside of ab armor with riveted shim piece. Outside view. Opposite side with a Velcro side for access.

Changes in progress. ok one modded ab button set from 16mm down to 13mm . belt ends fixed. and chrome tape removed from the detonator. Thanks for the constuctive feedback Bernard

Hello, Now that I am offically TK 2327, I would like to request elite status for ANH version stormtrooper.

Hey Paul, Requesting 501st access please. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember...cfm?userID=8623 Thanks, Bryce TK-2327