NoVATie

My Doopydoos kit had a notch cut out for the screw tab. I guess you need to cut one for it with a dremel.

Kirk Douglas was very entertaining

I would have never imagined an outlet cover, Pat

If you're getting frustrated then take a step back and take a break. This is supposed to be fun. In the pictures above everything looks fine in terms of placement. I see what you are saying about the way the kidney piece is angled and keeps you from placing a straight shim between it and the ab plate. I would get some of the scrap ABS you have and make shim, and tape it to the ab and the kidney so that both pieces sit straight up. If that means that there is a tiny space between your lower back and the kidney plate then so bet it. I think that is better than having an angled or triangular shim showing on the side of the suit. How are you hanging the thighs? Are you using a garter belt system? This is something easy to make if you need a break, but I think you need to have the main body assembly done first so you know where (height-wise) to hang the thighs. Get out the tape and put some shims in place and see how it looks. Keep asking questions and we will get you there

How about right here----------

Got you taken care of, Rick

The Winsor and Newton dries in about 5-10 minutes if not less, it depends how thickly you put it on. I use a toothpick to pull it off after I've done the painting. I wouldn't leave it on for more than 1-2 days though as it becomes much harder to remove.

I haven't seen any purple liquid mask but I use Winsor and Newton watercolor mask and it works just fine.

Granted, Jade.

I think the thigh pieces should be as high up as is comfortable, that way less undersuit shows. I have a garter belt system to hang my thigh straps from and I have a strap in front almost lined up with the seam and one also on the sides. This keeps the thighs up and also prevents them from twisting. There are threads on here for the garter belt. I'd move the bicep down closer to the crook of your elbow, but you will have to play with it so it doesn't pinch. You might need straps from the bicep to the forearm pieces, I use velcro inside each and a strip of black elastic with mating velcro on the ends to keep my forearm pieces in place. Ab and cod looks fine where it is. As for mobility by trimming the back of the thighs, well, TK's aren't known for their mobility. I'd get everything else adjusted and squared away and then spend some time in the armor to decide if you want to trim anything.

Nice job Tyler but your drop box straps need to be white instead of black.

Congratulations Lars Granted, Edwin

You can tell which leg is which because the leg Paul says is for the left leg is curvier on on side than the other. The curve is for the calf muscle which is more prominent on the inside of your leg.

All done Robert

I think Rusto says re-coat within an hour or after 24 hours. If you did one coat, I'd give it at least 24 hours before doing another one, and 48 before handling it. Better safe than sorry.

If you use the search function and type *ata, it will bring up the ATA threads we have tagged so people can find build threads more easily.

You're looking for the SE-14R blaster. It looks like Kropserkel makes one, but I'm sure other people do too. http://www.kropserkel.com/srblaster.htm http://www.tk2073.com/home/item/31-se-14r-blaster-prop.html EDIT: Looks like Paul beat me to it, but there you go

Looking forward to seeing it come together

Looks like you're taken care of already Tobi

Welcome back, Nathan

Congratulations Tiffanie

Taken care of, Mario

501st Stormtrooper status granted

Now all you need is some dirt and you'll be right off of Endor Nice job.