Doggydoc

Finally finished. Please let me know if there are any obvious issues that will affect my applications for EI and centurion. thank you so much to Bryan @trooper96 for the amazing 3D print files. Your work is incredible. I don’t know how many times I shoved parts in my wife’s face and said “look at this, look at the detail, it actually works”.

Great comparisons. thank you for doing this

Everything is ready to assemble. Will be putting it all together tomorrow morning likely.

Congrats Andrew.

Hey Chris. ‘’I am also waiting for my kit from AP. We can be build buddies. LOL

So I managed to make clear lenses for the scope. Bought 1/16” acrylic 5x7” sheets for photo frames and used a circle template to draw 1/2” and 1” circles onto the blue painters tape. Used a hobby table scroll saw to cut them. Used 1” clear round Avery labels to print the reticle and then stick it onto the lens. I don’t think it will show very well when the scope is assembled and dark inside but I like that it is there.

Quick question about paint colour for the E- 11. For the fire control assembly The housing that holds the trigger seems to be black on many of the blasters I have seen but my build instructions say aluminum or metal colour. Is either black or silver acceptable?

Thanks for the advice and the offer to buy your extra lenses Joseph and everyone else. I ordered some 1/16 inch acrylic sheets and will cut them on my scroll saw as my son and a friend want blasters after mine is done and then I want to build a second with electronics in it, so I will need a bunch of them eventually.

Posting some blaster progress pics. any advice on the lenses. I tried printing them with transparent PETG filament but they are translucent at best and can’t see through them.

Awesome tip. Will do.

Ok. So after a week of reprinting parts, I have caught back up to where I was when it all went wrong with the blaster build. I have to still print the counter and the scope, but everything else is printed and sanded. Put a coat of the Rustoleum filler / primer on the body today. Very smooth after 1 coat, got a bit over excited and may need to do a touch of sanding where it went on a bit heavy. redid the XTC coating with proper measurements and coated the T tracks. I used the little condiment containers we have from when we order food in for mixing and measured with a syringe. I think the mix was right on this time as the mixture was only workable for about 10 minutes. T tracks sanded and ready to be coated T tracks after coating (still wet) Also getting really excited. I messaged Mark from AP about the armor kit and he will be pressing in the next few days. Can’t wait for BBB day.

Awesome job. Fun thread to follow.

Thanks for all of the tips, I did try paint stripper, but it didn’t take it off, I am restarting the prints now at about 60% speed and dropped the layer height from 1.2 to 0.8 mm. here’s to E-11 2.0

Well, had my first big set back. I messed up the ratio on the XTC 3D coating when I tried to go by weight and my scale was not precise enough. After 4 days it was still very sticky, so I tried to sand it down but no luck. The blaster is a write off. Not too upset, just a learning experience. I have syringes to measure more accurately next time by volume instead of weight. Reprinting the barrel now, should be able to catch back up in a few days. one piece of advice, if anyone can help. How do you get rid of the print lines on areas where there is fine detail like the writing on the mag holder?

@justjoseph63 yes. I did read you post and referenced it several times. Thanks for the tip.

So while I am waiting for my BBB to arrive, I decided to jump into the 3D printing world and take my new printer for a spin and start the E-11 blaster project. After about a week of printing, I have 3/4 of the parts printed. Yesterday I spent most of the day sanding and started the basic assembly. The photos are post Bondo and pre Bondo sanding. Tonight I will be smoothing with the XTC 3d print coating. This is such a satisfying hobby. I must admit there were a few pew pew moments last night chasing the pets around the house.

Happy Holidays to everyone. Please stay safe and hoping everyone has a great 2022

The boots arrived from Crowprops today. So it took about a month to get them from when I ordered them. They fit amazing and look great.

My boots arrived today from Crowprops. Very impressed with them. I struggle having big wide feet and these are very comfortable. I now have everything ready just waiting for my BBB from AP to get the build started. I am planning on starting to 3D print the blaster over the holidays. Just need to figure out the printer a bit.

This looks amazing. You have inspired me to my second TK build. (Once I get my first one done. LOL)

I have a wide size 13 foot and just ordered from Crowprops. They actually have you send a tracing of your foot and measurements to custom size the boots.

Hi everyone, I though I would post the process I used to make my neck seal for others to use if they want to try and make their own. Materials: Stretch fabric - I used a tshirt type elastic material for the bib and the inside of the neck piece and a elastic stretch fabric with a shiny rubber like surface for the outside of the neck piece. Batting Paper for making a pattern. Right angle ruler. Sewing supplies. My neck size is 17”, so you may need to adjust some of the sizes accordingly. Based on your neck size. Step 1 - Make the pattern: Using a corner angle ruler, make a rectangle that is 26 inches wide by 14 1/2 inches tall. Mark the middle of the pattern along the long side of the rectangle with a dotted line. mark one side front and back Make a mark 10 1/2” from the edge of the front side. Make a second mark on the midline 12 inches from the edge back edge. Make a mark 13 3/4 inches from the back edge and 3 1/2 inches in from the side on each side of the pattern. Now using a pencil, make an oval on one half of the pattern from the 12 inch mark to the side marks at 13 3/4 inches and around to the 10 inch mark. Fold the pattern in hale and cut out the oval. Now we make the neck piece pattern: First make a fitted template for the neck part. This is essentially a rectagle measuring 4 inches tall and 17 inches wide (width is the same as your neck size). Mark the midline of the long side of the rectangle and make a mark 3 1/4 inches from the bottom of the neck piece. Freehand draw the curve from the marked spot up to the top of the neck piece as shown. Fold the paper on the midline and cut out the curve. Next, use the sized neck piece to create a pattern by adding an inch or two on either side and a half inch on the top and bottom to allow for seams. Seep 2: cutting the fabric: Pin the pattern to the favric and cut the fabric following the pattern, including the hole in the bib. For the neck piece, cut one piece of the outer fabric using the pattern and cut the inner fabric using the same pattern but leave extra length on the bottom to allow for the seam on the neck. use the fitted pattern to cut the batting. I used 3 layers of batting. Next, pin and hem the edge of the bib. Step 3: making the neck piece. On the non showing side of the outer piece of fabric, use the fitted template to mark the fabric along the seam line using a white fabric pencil or chalk. Pin the outer and inner pieces together along the top border of the neck with the inside and outside surfaces facing each other. Next , lift up the upper piece and fold the lower piece up to sit in between the two pieces. When the upper piece is dropped back down, then pin the upper and lower pieces along the bottom side of the neck piece. Now sew along the top and bottom sides of the neck piece. Do not sew the sides. Once sewn, this will create a tube. Turn the piece inside out so that the proper sides are now on the outside. Slide the batting into place by putting your hand in the tube and gently pulling it through. Take some time to position the batting inside the neck piece properly. Starting at the bottom of the neck piece, use a sewing machine with a walking foot to sew straight lines along the length of the neck piece. Use the previous line as a guide for the next one. Continue up the neck piece to the top. Step 4: attach the neck piece to the bib. Mark the centre of the front and back of the neck opening as well as the outermost points of neck opening at the shoulders. Next, mark the mid point , the back points ( I sewed lines from the top to the bottom where the neck piece will meet at the back), and the side points at the shoulders. Now, using the marked point to line up the pieces, pin the neck piece to the bib start at the middle front and then do the shoulders, pin the areas in between next and work your way all the way around the seam. This takes some time and several readjustments to get it right. Trimming off the excess length at the back of the neck piece helps a bit. You will have a gap of about an inch or so in the back but this is ok, the zipper will close it up. Make sure that the correct sides (inside and outside) of the neck and bib are in correct position. Now sew around the neck from the edge of one back point to the other back point. You likely will have a fair sized gap between the 2 back points, simply cut down the back of the bib in the middle of the space and sew a zipper in place that runs up the back and onto the neck section. you now have a completed neck seal. Happy trooping.

So I decided to make my neck seal today while I wait for my BBB from Authentic Props. I figured, that since I enjoy costuming, I would give it a go. I think it turned out pretty good. I am going to post a guide on how I made it in case someone else wants to try and make their own.

If I paint my armor like that can I still get centurion approval? LOL

I just ordered them yesterday, so I am not certain. Just couldn’t find any other options.