MaskedVengeance

Very nice! Good work! Love that tape across the shoulder bells to maintain a constant form. I'm in the same boat as you, working a little very day, generally for me that's sometime after midnight. My wife would kill me if I took over our dining table.

Cool man! Well for US or Canada based sellers you might be able to save on shipping costs, so that's something to take into consideration. The T/MC vendor that is listed on the recommended list is actually now known as Far Away Creations, or MonCal (MC). I'm not sure if they sell from their website, but they do also have an Etsy store. Some years ago they had a reputation for slow shipping, but I believe that's changed now, and they're currently also known to have provided LFL with helmet props (I believe Imp. gunner and rebel, and perhaps TIE pilots) for the RO and Mando productions. Not included on the list is the armor sold by Trooperbay, known as MTK. Many of us get decals or some other supplies from Trooperbay, and his armor is prices similar that of what ATA used to be, and perhaps also DA props out of Europe (before shipping). You may also consider watching the For Sale sub-forum here on FISD; there have been several armor posts just this summer. One last thing, the plastic that DA Props uses is an off-white color, I believe likely similar to that of RS, but I've never actually been able to compare in person. I believe it may also be similar in color to the plastic that RWA uses. Most of the other armors here in North America are a pretty bright white color.

Definitely stick with the vendors on that list that Mario linked to above, Matt. The only think I'll add is to avoid Originalstormtrooper as well. There are inaccuracies with some of their (Shepperton Design Studios, or SDS) parts, and can be overpriced as well. Not to mention the legal battles that AA had with LFL, if you care about such things. Based on your mention of them and DA Props, it sounds like you may be located in Europe, and if you're looking for something more "local," you could consider RWA.

Ah this brings back memories of your build. Particularly I recall your dilemma with the eye bump. lol. Your bucket is a thing of beauty dude, and it makes me think I may need to get a Jimmi bucket someday. Perhaps when I'm next in the Philippines (dual citizen here, but family still there).

Not that I have a vested interest other than hoping that all the buyers eventually receive what they purchased, but I’d be curious to know if anybody here on FISD talks to the DN folks at SDCC this weekend.

Just a little thing to mention for FAC/MonCal builds… the black trim that they provide for the neck of their TK buckets is not of the S-profile variety, which means you’ll need to upgrade the U-shaped windlacing that they supply if you decide to submit for higher levels of approval. Below if a photo of what I received when I ordered a replacement for my bucket, which I found out after the fact is what they use for both X-Wing pilots and TKs. That being said, Cal and Kathy have been pleasant to work with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great work on your painting, Mark! I think for now you could likely leave your vocoder 2 and 6 ridges at their current height, as those two have some variation. As for your tube stripes application, here are some links that you may find helpful https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49240-painting-using-templates-101/ The big takeaway for preventing bleed through the edges of templates is to first paint (and let dry) a thin layer matching the surface color. So for your tube stripes, first paint white onto your template to seal the edges with the helmet surface. Then afterwards, go back in with the French blue. And here is a thread with some general helmet painting tips. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48942-anh-stunt-helmet-painting-tips/

I myself am a thermal detonator addict, and as Glen mentioned, if you're absolutely stuck with using the plate you have, perhaps placing a washer sized to match the "donut" shown in the photo behind the plate (assuming you can remove it from the pipe), heating, then pressing in the dimple through the washer hole might work. Below are some links to my detonator posts: Thermal Detonator Part 1 Thermal Detonator Part 2 Thermal Detonator Part 3 [coming soon!]

Welcome, Arvin! I saw on your other posts that you purchased an ABS kit from RS. Did you commission them to build it, or are you planning to assemble yourself? Once you have BBB (Big Brown Box) Day, post up lots of photos and questions on a build thread of your own, and troopers will help you along on your journey! Here's a thread I compiled with quite a bit of helpful info!

Well, I haven't decided if I'm actually going to do such a trim and reforming, but I'm considering it! I do wish I had a spare forearm as a contingency plan. Glen - Are you saying that you mount your bicep-to-forearm strapping on the outside piece with the ridged details? Does that end up landing halfway between your elbow and the bend in your arm? I had been planning on running mind right in the bend where it might be less visible.

Yeah I was comparing my ATA right forearm to that of AP, and the difference isn't so much that ATA has the defined flat area (because that's standard on forearms)... it's that there's a longer arc of the curved portion between the ridged detail/feature in the middle of the piece and the start of the flat portion. So as you point out, even if you trim each side of the flat surface down to 7/8mm for the 15mm cover strip, the total circumference isn't small enough for some people. I'm toying with the idea of completely trimming off the flat portions on both pieces on the side that will face the rear, and bending the plastic to either reform a flat surface for the coverstrip, or just bend it enough to accept a coverstrip, even if it isn't flat.

Very cool, Chris! I was actually going to ask you about how you handled the different sized left and right arm pieces. If I recall correctly, and as you mention, the ATA right forearm has a larger circumference than the left, and I believe there are some differences in the biceps, though not as pronounced. On my arms the larger forearm is really just too big so I'm trying to work out how to downsize it, which is a little complicated since the ATA pieces have such hard bends leading to the flat area on which the coverstrips are mounted. I'm thinking I may need to do some boiling water baths on mine, and hopefully not have to use a heat gun.

Below are some links to threads that detail the process that Chris mentioned above. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45052-howto-wetsand-polish-for-a-great-shine/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45555-howto-resize-armor-with-abs-paste-and-armor-scraps/ You can do it, Robert!

The standard elastic product for holding down the rear shoulders bridges as Glen showed in photos is simply 1/4" white elastic, found at any craft store or in the crafting section of other retailers (Walmart, etc.).

Welcome Manuel! All things related to scouts can be found on the Pathfinders Detachment Forum, though I'm sure members of the SoCal Garrison here on FISD could also connect you with some local folks. Paging @TheRascalKing since he's with SoCal and may know people.

Welcome, Nolan! So are you planning on forming your own molds and pulling your own plastic? If so, very cool, and I look forward to following along!

As Mario said, a couple dabs of E6000 should do the trick on your brow trim above the eyes, while also giving you the flexibility of removal in the future. You may also be able to tighten up the gap between the cap (top) piece of the helmet and the faceplate in order to provide more tension for the trim to stay up. However, just keep in mind that any change in the alignment of the face and cap may result in changes to the ears and gaps around them.

Thanks Glen! We need Panda to come back and update his old posts! That's one of the reasons I've also created a great many PDF versions of threads on here--to essentially future-proof the content with photos, at least in one format.

Based on the permissions error I'm receiving, I'm guessing that the below post by Terry is archived due to broken photo links. Is this correct? If so, bummer, as I had it on my resource thread. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13288-howto-assemble-arm-armor/

Man I wish I had a RO kit so I could jump on this, considering my obsession with thermal detonators. I’m still waiting on Justin to convert his Jimmi to one of these variants. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We all know that @justjoseph63 won't be able to unsee the seen, and that we'll all soon have more greebs to add to our blasters.

Ardeshir (equuspolo) is a film industry stuntman who also happens to be a member of the 501st, and a very cool guy and asset to this community. This is publically-available and LFL-approved knowledge: recently he has been in Kenobi as a stormtrooper donning the RO-style kits, as well as one of the first live-action clones seen on screen. His own joke is that he's perhaps the only 501st member to have actually executed Order 66 in (semi) real life.

@equuspolo said on FB this morning that that HWT pack was his, and apparently he's going to share his specs with the forum at some point. Wish I was a stuntman in Cali. Now who here is going to add red lights to their pack? Haha. Heck, my pack isn't done yet...

I liked seeing the TKs with DLTs too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Geez 92 inches Dan?! Now I know where to have my next SW marathon next time I'm in Europe. Haha. Looking forward to seeing these OTTKs for myself tonight after work.