TheRascalKing

Heck 'em. It's white armor - let's keep it Great work!

Velcro? Shouldn't need any velcro on the thighs, as they should be fully closed... I can echo Glen (as usual) and agree that some foam blocks on the inside of the outer piece of armor should help pull them away from your undercarriage and make them more comfortable. Make sure they fit you and are sitting at the proper height as well (garters can sag and attaching them to your ab can pull it down if not strapped properly). I also usually remove the return edge at the top, inside of the thigh armor and blend it back in, keeping it on the outside of my leg to give it the look/depth of armor. Definitely post some pics and we'll try to make recommendations.

Looks very similar to the Crossfire Props one, which is one of the better models and one that I have seen approved before (and am almost done with mine!).

Definitely looks correct if you can get it!

Hey Cordell and welcome! RS needs some adjustment and mods before trooping, as they are often 'accurate to a fault' and can be made much more comfortable - they have a few minor issues out of the box, but are generally fantastic suits. Grab some better lens material, helmet padding (ew, starfish haha), and probably strapping (the brackets can crack your armor over time), and add fans to your helmet and you should be in good shape! Let us know if you have any questions or need help

Welcome, Austin! I'm a recent cancer survivor myself, so you definitely have people in here who understand your journey and are here to support you! Trooping and putting smiles on faces truly is a great reward for the work put into your armor. Let us know how we can help!

Heyhey and welcome! Exciting news and I'm sure you'll have a ton of fun with your kit! Keep us posted if we can help with anything.

Hey and welcome! As Glen said, there hasn't been a CRL developed just yet, but a few of us have been pushing for it. Getting approval for the new CRL with an 850 suit may prove to be a challenge due to their accuracy, but that's if no one beats you to it! I would build to the Rogue One CRL standard first, then add the weathering and swap helmets once a CRL is closer to being finalized, personally. Let us know how we can help!

Greetings and welcome! Always great to see people shooting for higher levels right out of the gate - best of luck and let us know if we can assist!

The stress bend (and eventual cracks) on the back plate shoulder area is usually caused by the back panel sitting far too low, often from people trying to close the gap between the panels and 'make it fit'. Ensure your ab and kidney/posterior aren't sagging, and remember that a little gap between the back and kidney is just fine. The back should sit just below where your collar line would be. Just make sure you round off the bottoms of the tabs too or they'll rub something fierce. If not already mentioned, I saw in another photo that your belt can come up a bit so that it sits just below the bottom blue button - some velcro on the backside usually works well to help this! Overall, looking good and well on your way! Anovos armor is easy to make look good, so keep at it!

Looks great! Helmet decals are a little undersized for the traps, but I know there isn't much availability on those, so probably can't be helped... I would also lower your biceps a bit to close the gaps at your elbows and wrists a bit more - ESB was distinctive in this way. Looking good though and should be an easy variant approval!

Here's one masterfully finished by Paul Prentice of Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build. And yes, when finished properly, I can say with some authority, having held a screen used one, that it is the most accurate currently available and absolutely worth a purchase if your goal is a Rogue One/New Generation suit. Jimmi's is excellent as well, but Nico's is truly impressive. More photos at: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100008239635269&sk=photos_by

The armor does not really have a return edge like ANH - it is just a thicker, flat edge in most places because the material is just thicker... Since the production suits aren't thin ABS like that, I would probably leave a very slight return edge to give it the look of thicker material. Hopefully not - to be clear, the ribbed suit on from Extreme Racing would not be accurate or approvable for RO - the ribbing is totally different. Good luck with your build!

Hey and welcome! The thread title alone had me intrigued haha I'll go ahead and add another +1 for Mark of CfO - ROTJ armor is unique and his is definitely the best example of it. Unaware of any makers in Oz, so if it's going to be shipped anyways, might as well go for the good stuff. His prices and lead times are pretty reasonable by comparison as well. Good luck and let us know if we can help! Research and ask questions, but you're off to a good start obviously!

Hey and welcome! Anyone know if BSP is still producing? I heard things went south and they're not around, if I remember right. Something to consider when purchasing, if the vendor is no longer active and supporting their armor... If not, great FOTK armor can be had from Imperial Surplus, KB Props, or Jimmiroquai... Good luck with your purchase and build! Research and ask lots of questions

Frown and mic tips are a little off too. But it's far from the worst I've seen and probably not a BS recast. We actually talked about it at length on Facebook if this will let me link... https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10157819037026277&set=gm.639236870366079

I'll take it one further and suggest packing cubes like these! Keeps all my soft goods together and organized, plus makes it easy to grab and go after washing and repacking, especially if you have multiple suits you use the same undergarments with. I use a medium one for my undersuit/neckseal/gloves/socks/etc, and a small one to keep my electronics/batteries together and organized.

Excellent, and welcome! Where was the kit commissioned from? Looks good! I'd definitely put a little dab of E6000 at the front, bottom of that right thigh, then flip the ammo pack all the way up and let it glue - flaring it out a little will keep it from smashing your shin armor as much. If you don't already have mobility cutouts at the back of your knees, I'd highly recommend it. As always, reinforce your shoulder bridges. Keep the biceps nice and low and arm gaps tight for ESB, but they look like they're rotating, so a little tighter on the bicep straps, some hooks, or a another little dab of E6000 may be in order. Finally, when you build the belt, make sure it sits just below the ab button panel. Post more pics and we'll give you more feedback to have you looking your very best, but it looks like you're well on your way - congrats!

Hey trooper and welcome! I don't believe I saw what type and maker of armor you have going? Let us know!| If it helps, here are some photos of how I do my strapping with Line 24 (15mm) snaps, based largely on the @wingnut65 diagram that's been around forever. The double snaps are very secure and comfortable! I'd also recommend adding some keeper clips to your posterior (not shown) if it tends to pop out like many of ours do. And what's up with your sniper knee? We'll try to help! Pics!

Heyhey and welcome! You're in the right place haha AM is awesome armor, great choice! Just some quick notes/tips on it, if it helps: - remember that even though the kit is rough trimmed and has no cut lines, pretty much EVERY piece still needs to be trimmed at least a couple millimeters! Check all of your measurements and keep cutting/sanding away slowly - don't worry about the biceps being super oval - build and fully glue them, then hot water bath them into shape - reinforce your shoulder bridges! The extra pre-bent ABS that was originally included as plain 'Sandie' style bridges works well for gluing to the underside - AM's tube stripe stickers are a little dark, so either go with the Humbrol blue or replace them if you want to go for the brighter French blue ab button paint - I've also heard it said that their helmet decals' black outline is a little thick, so trim it before placing them if you want to go for super accuracy - mist some soapy water and 'float' them into place, then squeegee it out - it shouldn't hurt the stickers - remember to taper your forearm armor - it comes cut straight and really should be at an angle, getting more narrow at the wrists - ensure you cut off the 'crotch tab' that extends from the posterior armor - AM kits come with the parts needed to convert to ESB or Sandie as well, so if you keep that in mind for things like the belt, you can plan ahead for extra approvals if that's your thing... but don't panic if there are extra parts you don't know what to do with - save some scrap ABS for slurry in case of repairs, and save any extra ABS in general - AM is a very thick, bright white ABS that is a little tricky to match (not as bad as Anovos though) I'll try to post up if I remember any more offhand, but those are a few common AM-specific quirks that may help (I've built 3-4 of them recently)! Good luck - do lots of research and ask lots of questions, we're here to help!

I'd be concerned that wouldn't be tall enough for the clamshell and thighs. I've seen guys make the Husky 25gal work with TKs though (no helmet), so maybe...

You won't find a lot of foam or foam support around the 501st, as we strive to use materials that are, or at least appear, movie accurate. I've definitely seen a few nice printed ones though. Could always check over at the Pathfinders forum as well, since I don't think the E-22 has been approved for carry by any FISD costumes... yet...

Just if anyone was curious, I removed the liners from my Endor Finders gloves the other day, as they were hot and difficult to get on and off (especially when sweaty). It was pretty easy to turn them inside out and cut along the wrist, then at the end of each finger tip, to remove the liner. You can see that the material is pretty shaggy, and I am glad I removed them. I'm starting to get a small hole at the wrist that I'll probably need to repair as a result of my mod, but still worth it for hot weather, imo.

Just wanted to let y'all know that I ended up going with this bad boy for $134.66 off Amazon, including 720 black Line 24 snaps and a hole punch tool. It arrived very quick and I am VERY pleased with it so far. We'll see how it does for scaled production once I bolt it to my workbench shortly... MAYBE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0924TD4XM

Appreciate the clarification, and let me know if I can be of any assistance!