Dracotrooper

Forget my TK mates! Haha, never! - especially so since still have allot more build to go and go and go....not sure exactly when I'll finish my blaster... do wanna prime and paint before the summer sun completely disappears. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi everybody! It sure has been a while since my last post - the intricacies involved with getting my BlastFX speaker installed and scratch building by ROTEB (rear of the exposed bolt) had been challenging. A wire to my speaker broke off and I needed to paint the ROTEB since its an inner component, it won't be easily accessible after install. Discovered liquid electrical tape and applied it stabilize the speaker wire, after some soldering and keeping things in place with E-6000. As for the ROTEB paint, used metallic and flat black for the charge handle. Getting the charging handle of the ROTEB installed was a tricky endeavor - had to feed in the ROTEB down the reciever tube and had to put the handle in place from the outside within the charging handle track. Then, only to get in the screw for the charging handle from the hole revealed from taking out the trigger group. I eventually did It! To protect the speaker from the compressed coil when the charge handle is engaged, a plastic washer was installed. I skipped the idea about foam. I will soon screw the speaker into place and also screw in the end cap retainer. The end cap retainer is carved to accommodate the speaker. Taking a closer look, I blundered on the carving and have to follow through with more carving to get the end cap retainer oriented correctly. The outside of the end cap retainer has three holes drilled so it can be installed into the end of the reciever tube. Holes recessed to accommodate screw heads. Feeling so very ellated! Charging handle is now operational! It has allot of resistance with the gauge of wire from Tino's Completion Set. It can be pulled back and the blaster can still achieve 'surround sound' by using the reciever tube as an echo chamber for my BlastFX speaker! Blast and stun sound is nice and loud!! What follows is some photos with descriptions... Original doopydoos charging handle much like the real thing with a circular base - I sanded away the sides so that it can fit through the charging handle track. Prepped for tiny screw to get it into place. Here's some updated pictures of the ROTEB group of components. Metallic paint on spring cup and ROTEB with matt black on the charging handle. Taped over an area of the ROTEB so that I can install that raised portion of the ROTEB with clearing strip at a later time. It'll be easy to install as I would simply plop it into place at the charging handle track. Here, ROTEB funneled into receiver tube and charging handle to position inside the charging handle track with a tiny screw to install the handle to the ROTEB from the exposed hole when taken away the trigger group. Spring cup would fall in, but first getting the coil to 'hug' it real tight to keep it in position. Plastic ring recessed onto the receiver tube. It is installed flush against the end of the receiver tube so the BlastFX speaker can sit flush against it with screws holding it down. Upon speaker install, have to compress the coil inside - interesting challenge. Preliminary carving of the end cap retainer to accommodate the back of the speaker. Inside of the End cap retainer carved to shape. More shaping required so to have it installed correctly relative to the rear sight. Here's a first look at the ROTEB with charging handle, spring cup and coil inserted together! Dremel tool used to create recess for screw install. Here I have screws attaching the BlastFX speakers to the receiver tube. Three 1-1/4 inch long wood screws will be used to install the end cap retainer part. Here's an older picture that shows how I have to align the end cap retainer with the rear sight. Don't want to get this wrong or else the end cap will sit the wrong way! Thanks for reading once again! Until next time...it'll be sooner!

I second this comment - not only does this bit grind away resin from side to side, there's teeth on the top of it so you can grind away resin by pushing it away. Also, getting it on to a flexible shaft gives you ultra control for detail work. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Good recovery Marko on the folding stock - glad you have Tino's glue to solve the problem. You did a great job hollowing out the inside of the folding stock, very clean! Keep up the great work!

See section 28 [emoji6], glad we can help in this way-----------

There's also the FISD blaster reference that has a hefty section on Painting the E-11, you may wish to check it out. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ Hope this helps! Have fun painting! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi again, just a quick update on my doopydoos fitted spring cup. The plastic felt pen cap is now hollowed through. Felt I needed to bring out the dremel for working with plastic. Heavy gauge wire spring set in place and lodged in place so made stationary. This would be the end of the spring cup with the 'lip.' Armorture wire spring also set in place on the other end of the cup so to resemble one spring going through the cup. This follows after SMG references. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Beautifully executed end cap, following your work with interest [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi there Paul, Great to see your complete progress with ample description here on FISD - I did come across your fb posts being a member of the BlastFX builders fb group myself. I'm glad you have Brian's scope - must be such a treat to marvel at the workings of the BlastFX scope component inside this scope! I will make due with a hollowed doopydoos version with Tino's completion set add-ons myself when I get to that stage... ...I will prepare a cup of coffee ahead of time before studying your posts - thanks for the thoroughness!! cheers!

More progress to posts - this time on the bayonet lug: I'm part way through with enhancing the doopydoos bayonet lug nut for a circular base. I measured it at 12mm in diameter. Plasticard was used and it will be padded with green stuff on the bottom of it. The cured green stuff will be sanded down to follow the curvature of the receiver tube before install. cheers!

A million thanks to you Tino for following through with those dimensions - they've helped me measure accurately for my doopydoos fitted version of the spring cup. I've converted the real dimensions you've given, by doing a relative calculation to obtain an accurate length for my version of the spring cup. Here I precision measure my spring cup to 23mm in length and cut evenly using a pipe cutter. You're making total sense to me Tino - I gathered that was how the spring cup functioned relative to the bolt but now with you're description, I understand it fully. I can now make an informed decision on how close I can get it to function like the real deal. The mechanism of my ROTEB will need to work like this: My outer, larger spring pushes against the end of my 20mm OD plastic tubing. Again, your completion set that came with an adequate wire gauge to form the spring and plastic tubing at the correct OD, really helped! As for my version of the spring cup, I will see to hollow it through, with a smaller inner diameter on the smaller end. I will insert a spring (OD 15mm) into the larger opening of the spring cup. Hopefully, with my spring cup getting narrower, the spring will stay in place. If not, I'll have to use E-6000 to make this happen. Also, a plastic piece will be used at the other end of this smaller spring to keep it in place. This follows somewhat SMG references but modified because I need to accommodate BlastFX wiring. For how my bolt will function in pulling back on the charge handle, the spring cup will not retract into the bolt. The only way it will retract into the bolt is if the cup gets pushed by the support piece at the end of the large spring...I can live with that! [emoji6] Have a terrific summer afternoon everybody - more updates to come soon!

Hi everybody, I took a more thorough look at Tino's 2016 build; I noticed the spring cup doesn't get installed from the front end because of the narrow curvature to engage the ejector fin. I see also that the spring cup sits on a spring that is held in place with yet another piece that holds the charge handle. As for the spring cup length, I'll make it 2-1/2 springs in length and add the additional mm or two for where the 'lip' should be. Really grateful for the Tino's detailed builds - they sure come in handy! With the spring cup being supported by springs on either end, maybe it can be retracted into the bolt, maybe when it touches the end cap? Here's the status of things so far ... I need to cut my plastic felt pen lid to length. The blue line is the mark for the 2-1/2 coils. The cut will take place a few mm down the pen. I purchased a nice spring to insert inside it. I may still build the support base for this inner spring (that following SMG references, holds the charge handle), but that would mean I need to hollow out my make-shift spring cup, because the inner supports for the support base goes into a hollow spring cup. Pretty exciting revelations here for this doopydoos build... we will see about next steps... Thanks for reading and have a great day!

What I do to avoid double posting using Tapatalk, is to close the application after every new post. This refreshes it for new content. Good idea to make sure you have a strong connection to the internet as well. For editing posts, like adding pictures and more text, I do the following: Click on the post ID, click the edit icon, click the 'edit' word on the middle of the screen. Here, you can add more pictures like you normally do with the button below. As for adding text, make sure you add it between the lines of code as shown. Simply click on the airplane to update. You see the revision right away, if not, restart tapatalk. Hope this works for you! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Aunion - you've made some real precision pieces here, allot of what you've done so far looks really good! It's always a treat to see all those vent holes on a pipe build! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Can someone tell me the length of the spring cup? Here's a pictures of it, the latter is from Tino's 2016 build. I gather that the part of the spring cap that's exposed is roughly 2-1/2 coils in length but I am unsure how much is hidden inside the ROTEB - rear of the exposed bolt. Is it just that 'lip' part, whereby you install it by funneling it through the other end of the exposed bolt? I am asking for the correct measurement length of the spring cup. I'm trying to mimic this piece as closely as possible, cheers!

I commend you for how you recovered the bayonet lug nut for this blaster. I especially like how you've weathered it

Thanks Tino! I would've been off by nearly 4mm for eye-balling the length

Makes allot of sense Chris - thanks for chiming in. Swpropman provides lots of pictures from his plastic replica smg parts - his bayonet lug nut looks good! It's following much after Aaron's lug nut from the photo compendium. I think I will mimic this mod cheers!!

I can't seem to find consistency between authoritative images I have on the bayonet lug...anyone can shed some light on this? In the collage, all are blaster reference / compendium images other than the bottom right image which is from Tino's image collection off of his 2016 build. Some images are conveying some sort of circular like base? Interesting... Here's a shot of the doopydoos bayonet lug...

Thanks Tino! - many like yourself here in FISD have been so encouraging ... I owe a depth of gratitude to you and others. Thanks for all that you've done and continue to do, to open up our minds to build possibilities. Q. Can you tell me how much ROTEB is exposed as seen from the charging handle track? What is the length from the charging handle to where the ROTEB meets the cup? In comparing my ROTEB to the reference guide, it's length is a bit long....can you tell me the exact measurements? I think it's length stops at the point where the grip attaches to the reciever tube...as seen from you 2014 build.

I did a little research for you Titan. By my estimations, there is loose association of Sci-Fire with HFx Productions as there was a time, some founding members of Sci-Fire were involved in some capacity with HFx Productions (makes rubber E-11s called Hyperfirm), I think to get the company off the ground. This is like the mid-2000s though. Maybe you have a suspect contact that is posing as a legacy rubber blaster builder? Hope things turn for the better for you. I'm sure a TK will chime in soon whose in the rubber blaster scene.

Hi again, Blaster is coming along .... With the proof of concept under my belt for the speaker install in the back of the receiver tube, I now find myself needing to figure out the rear of the exposed bolt. I would gather a felt marker, plastic tubing, dense foam sheets and some, let's say, plasticard for this phase... I used T-Jay's 2cm plastic tubing I got from purchasing his completion set. I cut it to length. I had to cut away an enclave to it since I have electronic wiring poking up from the grip and into the receiver tube under there. It was necessary or else I would hit the wiring and the 'rear of the exposed bolt' (ROTEB) would not slide nice. I outfitted the one end with dense foam to minimize strain onto the electronic wiring. Later, I will install a 'stop' piece to keep the dense foam from pressing into the wiring. On the other end of the ROTEB, I managed to find a felt marker with the perfect diameter and cap that can fit inside the coils. I filled in the top of the cap with green stuff to make it flush - it had a weird cross-hair pattern on the top. On the other end of the coil, I will install three donut shaped pieces made of dense foam and plasticard, which will eventually be pushing against the speaker. This to protect the speaker when the charging handle is pulled back. Still in the proof of concept and design stage but almost ready to install the ROTEB for good and lock in the speakers in position ... thanks for following once again! My pleasure to be part of this community with you all!

Hey there Marko, happy to help any way I can [emoji6] You too are very ambitious with keeping the coil compression with electronics - interesting ideal about black tubing holding the speaker wires in place. I foresee some challenges on how to make it 'float' between the coils. Your thread has been interesting too! Thanks! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Yes Tino - key part of the phrase is 'one day' [emoji16] I'm pretty elated to abort my initial conviction about the speaker in the scope - In retrospect, it was kind of a hokey idea. It will be sweet to get going on prop master add-ons like the scope and counter. For now, it is SMG parts and getting the electronics good. Will follow through with painting, hopefully before summers end, especially as I plan to use wrinkle paint which require higher ambient temperature to wrinkle well. I am having a ton of fun even as the blaster is now...using the 100 yard rear sight against the pin on the front sight and getting major sound with the speaker even just temporarily installed in the back of the tube. Chasing my toddlers around during the summer nights with a lit-up barrel is so much fun too!! [emoji4] Maybe after its all said and done, my thread will be known for what's possible, certainly not for what's recommended [emoji6] Cheers friend! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi Mupfel, I chose to run the speaker wires on the outside so that I can still pull back on the charge handle and have the coils compress. The wires would otherwise get in the way. If compressing the coils is not one of your objectives, it is far easier to run the wires through the inside of the tube [emoji6] Fyi - you having the same speakers, their install supports just extend to the outer diameter of the tube [emoji6] Thanks for stopping by! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk