Dracotrooper

Wow, natural light really brings out the satin in your black cat let alone your blaster! This is a bonus look to go with your factory paint finish [emoji6] well done. Your power cylinders are gleaming with some shine coming from the central capacitors and the red coming from the wire insulation, very nice touches. Also, very believable counter and housing, these are Tinos workmanship? Cheers! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Just thought it point out as well of the extractor and plunger on the exposed bolt. I've seen this done with plexiglass, plasticard ... not too big of a feat to get it more screen accurate. Here are the dimensions from the E-11 Blaster Reference. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Never thought I'd see you compared to a vintage Dan - you win by articulation advantage! Lol Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I like how you've installed the battery inside the magazine housing and accessible with magazine removal...exactly as how I did it, worked great! Dan made excellent points there, end cap clip slope looking a-ok Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Very cool modeling work - your completed e-11 will sure be one to marvel at, most excellent! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Awesome start! Great progress so far ... don't forget to use a respirator if you do any more resin dremeling, these fine particulates wreak havoc on your lungs. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Your build approach with so many differing elements really speaks of your design background. I too have opted for the slow and steady build approach, although at times, it does feel like I'm stuck in third year with no sight of graduation, if you catch my drift. May you focus all the more on your build targets and get things done in stages. Cheers! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Also, double check you print based on the paper size of the document. So no stretch-to-fit and no manual fit adjustment to paper size you specify. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

This will be an exciting build! I see.. you plan to add the doopydoos counter to the hengstler counter sockets? I see that it comes with shorter vent cover strip things...forget the name right now. With Tino completion set....excitement to come[emoji106][emoji1] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hey there Joseph, Very informative pictures, thank you. Not only will I get to sanding the sides of my caps, I will round off their edges to like what you've done. Your cylinders look awesome by the way! I like the hint of red insulation wire poking out over top, really screen accurate portrayal, nice touch

Hi nizam, The certificate can be found here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-417955 Or in the near-final pages of the E-11 Blaster Reference PDF ( see links below picture) : https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

Thanks guys, I'll keep to task. It was a fluke to find those valve caps, now to file away the bumpy surface. Looking forward to the central capacitors, after which I will add the scoop to get shape A. Thanks Andy for giving me permission to use his pictures. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hey Tino - they're aren't bumpy like that originally so I will take them away at some stage. Furthermore to share, I found the doopydoos version of the power cylinders pretty lacking, baseplate is all wrong from Length to Width to thickness (the latter can be explained from the resin molding process) Except for the cylinders themselves, I am not liking so much at all any other component of doopydoos here...

Hello all, From the onset of setting out to modify my doopydoos power cylinders, I quickly realized it was just a simple representation of the real thing. I did a few mods right from the get-go: backplate shape, bottom plate width and thickness reduced.I also found the power cylinder lop-sided, weird. It was tilted to one side! As for additions, I filed away the resin end caps to replace them with metal plumbing valve caps. I sanded 2mm in their height. I then threaded the end caps to the resin outer cylinders. I then installed the bolt and nuts from Tinos completion set. I also created the ceramic tube that is inside the outer cylinders. Sometimes I wish I had a drill press to get precision vertical drilling, oh well. More pictures to come! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I see you recently purchased your BlastFX at it's version two glory! That LED strip is something else eh? I love how it shines yellow at the long blast setting. Genius idea using Velcro. I will take inspiration from you if I every go around getting a replacement BlastFX. ps. Glad you figured out a plan for the exposed bolt!

Excellent! Love that precision you have so far - following with much interest! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

My exposed bolt is just a plate (in progress) I will put overtop of the opening. Your install is quite a bit more complex than mine with a shortened and yet movable exposed bolt with electronic motherboard inside. Perhaps wrap dense foam around the jet tail fin of the ejector? Perhaps it will be dense enough to stick to the fin without much adhesive? Proceed with caution though, would hate to see you malfunction your electronics like I did. Here, I have the ejector fin hole created on the tube and the ejector pokes into it. I had the electronic board sit a bit further down the exposed bolt window area and tried to keep wires away from it.

You're working with surgical precision here Sven; nothing like the patience, perseverance and exploratory-knowhow required to get the design implemented. Does your trigger holder make room for the trigger to get at it at maximum throw? This way, you don't accidentally put too much pressure on the trigger switch. I understand this entirely. When I went about scratch building my rear of the exposed bolt, which holds the cocking handle, I had to carve away under it so that electronic wiring was able to pass underneath it. Wish you the best in this endeavor.

I am humbled by your comments Brian – coming from someone who manufactures scopes. No curtains anytime soon, the show will continue! I agree entirely, Andy's resource is the definitive source for power cylinders. Tino, your work is an inspiration to me and to many others. IMO, this and your 2016 build are the builds that show cases what’s possible, deserving to be binded for quick reference. Yup! They’re timeless go-to pieces for generation of builders to come. Excellent reads to expand the mind! No kidding, really. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

My next target is set and gaining momentum for the build...Tino, Andy, you guys rock!!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Thanks! It felt really good to get a component to completion, paint and all! Thanks for the compliments, I'll keep to course then with the paint and weathering application. I was worried how it might all turn out. Eagle eyes on the large lens, end cap retainer! My workflow was such that gluing the back and front caps to the body was the last step. But you're right, that rear cap should be flush to the body with no gap. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hey thanks Dan! My best did get it to a more realistic level than, cheers! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Finally! My scope is done!!! Oh boy, it's something else to have it all completed and painted as well. The small lens installation was finicky. I stuck it to the ends of the lens spacer with electrical tape and placed it in the small lens housing. With room to boot in the housing, I filled in the extra space with some pieces of a red rubber band and glued everything with E-6000. As for the reticle lens, I used green stuff following Tinos example. Using crayon to highlight the scope text was very fun to do! Patience and perseverance paid off!

Haha, nice pun, funny! Thanks for dropping by! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi friends! I am getting into a groove of sorts with painting and weathering...hope I'm not too much off the mark [emoji28] 'More is less' when it comes to weathering....please check out my painted scratch built magazine. Base coat is steel looking paint with flat black overtop. Applied some toothpaste before spraying the black, to knock off any cleanliness on the look. This is advice took to heart from TenantLim, here on FISD. Applied some fine grit sandpaper to reveal steel underneath. Applied some wrinkle paint to the magazine cap; its shinier than the rest. Still want to apply some brown eye shadow makeup to give it a rust look on some parts and still to apply a mat clear coat to seal everything in...check it out [emoji2] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk