Dracotrooper

Hatnuts or another name is Pushnuts. This is another alternative. The trick is getting that excess away. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I found tiny plumbing valve caps at my local hardware store. They're made of brass so easy to sand and shape. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hello again, I grey prime major components leaving out the central capacitors. I then followed up with flat black. As for the ceramic tube, I followed up with semigloss to seal in the orangey color with brass highlights. This also adds shine and reflectivity to it. To ensure maximum adhesion for gluing, I masked away those parts of the cylinders that will have end caps glued overtop. I also thickened the 'wings' with platicard. Bottom plate will remain a bit thick so to accommodate my chosen and scratch-built resisters. 10BA screws still need to be installed and putting together of the resistor wirings and sleeves. Capacitors I will try to bundle and glue in place some how then black wash them...to be continued [emoji38] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I will have to say, we follow much after detail trailblazer Tino! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

This is how I did mine as well...as a guy following closely to SMG references, I would say this is the way to go if you want to get as close to the real deal as possible. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Oh I know ... I know where your coming from, sense of pride sets in when you've truly made your blaster your own [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Oh for sure, the cylinders I found has quite a bit of detail to plan and execute...a whole lot of fun! New year? New project = power cylinders Brian? Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I never thought of adding sand to paint to create the look and feel of texture. Awesome approach! I've already applied the paint; will be adding a very light spray of brass overtop to break up the monotony of the orangey color, thanks though, appreciate the tip [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi again, Tonight I try to replicate the color of my ceramic tubes as revealed in Andy's history and analysis pdf. He had created a replica which I am using as reference. Having cut my 1/4" OD tube to length, 37mm, I filled it with green stuff and recessed it a bit then applied grey primer. I then proceeded to mix three colors to get the orangey, oxidated color as revealed on the pdf, check it out! [emoji1] It's coming across quite bright, but better for it so the color will pop against the flat black of the final color of the cylinders. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Wow!! Sheer genius approach! Looks really spot on. Like how you gauge by putting source material side by side, keep up the great work! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Wow!! Great work on those tracks - that's right, Dan trail-blazed that mod. I have always refrained from applying a disc, now that you've shared your method, will give this mod a go in due time, thanks for sharing! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

It's all good Tino - copy that. I have success following your instructions, thanks! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I recall one builder, fairly recent, describing he would attempt to manage electronics with a functioning spring by inserting a hollow tube inside the spring and having the electronics sit inside the tube. Such that when the spring is engaged, the tube and electronics inside remain stationary. There must be a series of related considerations that need to be taken into account to make this work this way ... ponder and execute with baby steps and caution. Happy researching and wishing you wise approaches on this challenge. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Thanks Mupfel [emoji1] !! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi again ... going deeper now with the insulation sleeve of the resistor wires. Tino, how do you get out the interior of the red sleeved wire that came with your completion set, like you had as seen in the below picture from your 2016 build? Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

More updates to report this holiday season - central capacitors are created and test fitted through backplate and sitting next to outer cylinders. This is really detailed work; loving every moment. Check it out. Its kinda cool to see the rear part of the cylinders without end caps which showcases the rear vent slits' side 'C' shape. I also have 'the wings' created and test fitted. No wing stubs just yet. Thanks for dropping by [emoji1] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Oooh, I do know what you mean - you are referring to the soldering or more likely brazing blobs that was done to the underside to the front parts of the cylinders between the cap and the cylinder...yup, Andy's research manual captured those pictures, got it! No worries, I count this as heads up for details [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hey thanks Tino for the encouragement! Soldering dot you mean to close off parts of my end caps? It not, please explain, curious to know what you mean [emoji1] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

My goal for realism and working with no deadline affords me plenty of time to dream up off-the-wall solutions ... cylinders square vent slits showcase 1/4 " OD tubes that act as ceramic tubes present in the real deal, though they are smaller on OD in real life. Always a pleasure to hear from you Dan!!

Hi folks, Some major progress on upgrading my doopydoos power cylinders... After only upgrading the end caps...wasn't satisfied...went on to upgrade the outer cylinders. Scavenged and old VCR to get my resisters....only came away with one so made three more. Planned out position of holes on backplate...hand dremeled with caution...had to mend one by reinforcing it with aluminum strip. Test fit of major components good with room for resisters. Next up is getting my central capacitors good then resisters and insulation sleeve, cheers mates!!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Having a terrific holiday, thanks. Great build progress...nice custom work, very neat. Real working folding stock, nice! Think there's been nearly 1/2 dozen TKs that have installed it on resin, very doable. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Maybe someone whose submitted their E-11 for approval will chime in soon; I have yet to submit and don't want to steer you in the wrong direction. Great folks here; it'll be soon! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Wow Patrick! This is incredible progress. Splendid work in hollowing out a large portion of the folding stock. If you care to follow through with some more detail on top of what you're doing, you can add knurling patterns to the bottom of end cap clip T-bar and also on the top half of the front and back of the front sight curves. You said it! Getting the details takes time but it will be well worth it, cheers! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi there, took a brief look at this website: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Template:CRLgeneric-e11 I think you're mostly good, so long as you replace the coat hanger one with one that is the same of a d-ring. I didn't read on any requirement for front sight block and pin or muzzle screws. I didn't see these on your picture. You may be good here. Oh, and exposed bolt is required too on the other profile of the blastef, which you likely have being a resin build. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

How incredible! How wonderful of you to share; beautiful pictures! Best wishes to the newly weds [emoji2][emoji106] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk