Dracotrooper

Hi all, I've gone and captured the final details of my power cylinders. I added the wing stubs and also dabs of grey on the ends of my resisters to mimic wiring. Also black washed my central capacitors. This isn't screen accurate but I do like how they POP especially how 'dirty' they've become. It was a complete joy getting the insulation sleeve black washed, leaving the large hint of exposed red on top to keep that part screen accurate. Sprayed Matt clear coat to seal everything. I'm FINALLY ready to walk away from this E-11 component, thanks for following me =)

Thanks! The community has been very supportive and encouraging of my near-finish, so great! Thanks all!! Remember your ideal of using sticky tack to attach parts that dont need to be permanently attached? I used sticky tack to keep my two set of front end caps in place. I then followed up with black liquid masking tape. I am hoping when I want to take out the caps, the dried black liquid will bend with the sticky tack. Thought I'd mention this ideal if you haven't thought of it. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Ooooh, it's been a while since I posted. Had a slew of activities then 30cm of snow fell! Being in doors and between snow shoveling...managed to get the bulk of my power cylinders completed. Some notables is installing a small square nut on the base plate and countersunk hole underneath. All indicative of how the cylinders were lifted out off 50s British military equipment (History and Analysis PDF, Andy) I was going for Shape A for the backplate but in somehow messing up the final central capacitor installs, had it riding up too much and feared breaking the resin if made curve more pronounced than I had it. I didn't want to risk breakage as I'm having the doopydoos resin back and bottom plate holding up my upgraded aluminum outer cylinders. I got inspiration from Andy to create the ceramic tubing the way I did it. Pretty pleased how they turned out. Installing of the resisters was a bit tricky. Had to measure out insulation sleeves before soldering the supporting metal wires to the wires of the central capacitors. Had to consider angles and functionality of the sleeves purpose of keep metal wires from touching. But man!!! This was really the most micro project of the entire blaster I think. So many tiny considerations to carry out. As you can see from some photos...it is a bit lop sided but I'm hoping it isn't all that noticeable when installed on top of the magazine housing. ....apart from paint touch ups...am I missing anything? Please give me a shout and cheers! Thanks for dropping by. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hey were two of the same mind! Nice job ridding of the doopydoos toilet effect on the end cap [emoji106] And also wow! Magazine clip latch, I believe it's called, looks spot-on Keep up the great work! Following with interest Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Oh that rear shot of the black plate really shows nice angles superb! Resisters are another option to consider if not done so...cheers! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi PatrickM, I will be purchasing a BlastFX module later this year. After short circuiting one last year, need time to gather the funds. I'm trying to fit in time to finish off my power cylinders ... been hard pressed with work and personal life getting busy. Thanks for the encouraging words! Having a great deal of learning with my builds, it's been quite the ride. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Heres an easy tip your way - some more brass in a few places will bring your scope up a few notches, for resembling the real-deal. If you so choose of course. See pictures [emoji2] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Incredible! Really like what you've done Tino [emoji106][emoji106] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

We're good here Tino - completion kit wires were delivered [emoji106] In weighing out options, decided to go for a slightly heavier gauge. Sure, sticking with your wires would provide similar results anyways Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Really like your hengstler counter so far; the open slits below the sockets and the mesh resolution works well. You are quite the creative genius; as you trial by error, you are already getting to a good place, nice work! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

My mark 3.0 central capacitors. Thanks again for the tips Christian. Added some color too before inserting the 0.65mm wire (couldn't get .70mm). Now curing will take place with my capacitor ends at the right color. Resisters also had wire upgrades. Green stuff to fill in the larger hole ahead of time, now wires are snug. Thanks for following my crazy adventure!!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Thanks for lending your eye for detail my way. I figured I needed thicker wires for the capacitors to hold the resisters in place, I plan to solder. Also, as my resister wiring are also 1/16". Now that I have the wire thickness of the real deal, I may just upgrade my wiring. I will see... Thanks for the tips! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hey thanks Waynocerous! I continue to build....ever so slowly Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Here I am to show progress thus far ... I figured out a way to upgrade my 'wings' - I originally made them out of thin aluminum and thickened them with plasticard but it didn't hold when I attempted to make the three 1/16" holes using a drill bit. I now have one made of plasticard entirely and then thickened the 'wings' I also did away with my initial attempt at rear resisters. I now have them at the correct OD and length. I went out and bought a black plastic tube. The inner wire is 1/16". I will use some armorture wire to get the insulated wire additions in due time as well. Just moving along like a snail; slowly but surely [emoji1] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Thanks Brian for the well wishes; I can always count on you for that [emoji1] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Wow!! Paul continues to improve on his BlastFX offering. I had asked for a rotary switch over a year ago...now it being available, thats very cool!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Great conceptual design for the hengstler counter ... makes allot of sense. I hope you get a nice surround sound housing the speaker this way!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Man oh man - BlastFX v.2 with LED strip is gorgeous!! A heads up - not sure if you have your rear site installed already but a gap needs to be in place between it and the end cap so that when the end cap is engaged, there's that approx. 2mm room for the cap to be pushes and turned. Thought I'd mention [emoji28] Have fun!! Exciting build times ahead!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Thanks Tino - I also swapped the wiring to now be 1/16" wires. From rear, wires from the capacitors will be strong enough to hold registers in place. Plan to do some soldering as I've seen from build threads here on FISD. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi again, this update is more of a revision of sorts. On looking more closely at reference pictures, my central capacitors didn't look similar to the real deal. After filing away the edges more and adding smaller round end pieces to it via green stuff, IMO is now much closer to reality, cheers!!

Nice!! The back end of that piece is made to fit and now...perhaps later give it a flat black paint job so it's well hidden? Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I envy your electronic know-how; keep up the great work [emoji1] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hatnuts or another name is Pushnuts. This is another alternative. The trick is getting that excess away. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I found tiny plumbing valve caps at my local hardware store. They're made of brass so easy to sand and shape. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hello again, I grey prime major components leaving out the central capacitors. I then followed up with flat black. As for the ceramic tube, I followed up with semigloss to seal in the orangey color with brass highlights. This also adds shine and reflectivity to it. To ensure maximum adhesion for gluing, I masked away those parts of the cylinders that will have end caps glued overtop. I also thickened the 'wings' with platicard. Bottom plate will remain a bit thick so to accommodate my chosen and scratch-built resisters. 10BA screws still need to be installed and putting together of the resistor wirings and sleeves. Capacitors I will try to bundle and glue in place some how then black wash them...to be continued [emoji38] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk