Dracotrooper

Now I focus on some of the smaller component parts that get attached to the receiver tube. I reinforced the pieces, front and rear sight, flash guard and other guard with armature wire and also trying to figure out the install location of the end clip. Can someone tell me the correct position for the end clip? I seem to recall there's a video showing how it works....can someone point me to it? In a nut shell, pressing down on the back end of the end clip will raise the 'T' portion to allow for the end cap to rotate for removal...is that correct in terms of functionality? Also, I am curious, based on the malleable nature of armature wire; is there any concern that CA glue applied to it will 'eat into' the armorture wire and compromise it's integrity? Especially concerned as I have armature wire that keep the trigger lever component in the right place and orientation...if it were to be compromised, the trigger lever will not operate the electronics, a real bummer I want to curve any chance of happening. Thanks for taking the time; have a great day!

Hey Brian! Thanks for dropping by [emoji6] Totally... Paul's BlastFX is great for having that rumble motor feature. [emoji38] It's been a long haul, but I am seeing glimmers of light at the end of the tunnel. As its recommended to focus on SMG ahead of prop master additions for painting - aiming for finishing assembling SMG components first ... This taking time as the electronics are interwoven to it. I know I'll get to this build goal...with the warmer weather here (wrinkle plus has temperature requirements to work good) and a handful of the right paints ready to go, want to push hard for completing the SMG part of the blaster. And thanks also for cheering me on! Will keep to task for sure! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hello everybody, more updates ... I gathered up the courage to carve into the receiver tube today. I carved out only enough to make the grip and magazine housing sit flush on the tube. This way, there's more surface area for glue. In dremeling out the resin I would hit the inner black hard plastic. I felt it to be pretty malleable so not too bad to take away. It was really encouraging to see the individual parts fitted together - resembling a blaster!!! Still keeping to safety on the project: respirator, protective glasses, vacuum, and ear plugs. Wanna stay healthy by the end of it. Now, I decided to undo some mods for my magazine housing - now have it hallowed through! Though I originally decided to stop short of hollowing and install magnets to keep the magazine in place, decided to install my Lipo battery in the housing instead so simply removing the magazine would reveal the battery to access charging. It took some undoing to get the magnets out but finally did it. For the magazine, still managed for keeping the magazine roller spring but cut the spring short and installed a platform inside the magazine to hold the base. Pretty happy to retain this mod. Oh.....and one other CRAZY thing I managed to pull off - dremeled out the exposed bolt! I needed to do so to install the BlastFX mother board and also allow me to I stall the LED and speakers good. I tried my best to retain the bolt as I had already modified it ... I will see how much I need to redo with green stuff. Now, I mind as well redo the extractor and plunger. Also did a test install of my trigger lever component- at a later stage, will have to add CA glue to secure the armature wire holding the component in place. Thanks for taking the time; have a great day!

I gathered up the courage to carve into the receiver tube today. I carved out only enough to make the grip and magazine housing sit flush on the tube. This way, there's more surface area for glue. In dremeling out the resin I would hit the inner black hard plastic. I felt it to be pretty malleable so not too bad to take away. It was really encouraging to see the individual parts fitted together - resembling a blaster!!! Still keeping to safety on the project: respirator, protective glasses, vacuum, and ear plugs. Wanna stay healthy by the end of it.

Today's 20 minute sprint is dremel out resin for housing the trigger lever....its in the right position horizontally. Need to still adjust vertically by keeping the trigger at maximum throw position. Armorture wire will be used to keep trigger lever component in place using CA glue. Will use a 1/16" drill bit to make the holes for the wires. P.s. I think I'm good now for the grip position relative to the folding stock hinge.

Just saw something in my posted pictures, can someone tell me if following my grip install plan as shown in the pictures will have my grip installed too close to the folding stock hinge part? I seem to recall a certain gap is needed...

Hi again, more progress today! Dremeled away a cavity to hold the BlastFX rumble motor. I was careful not to make it too wide nor too narrow for the rumble motion to go about the space it needed. I kept the cavity as close to the top of my hand as possible on the grip so i will feel it more when holding it. Testing it feels right. I again created a channel for the wires to run along. Trigger lever still needs to be installed. Also, I'm getting ready to dremel the receiver. I have the hatch pattern sketched in, which is my area to dremel out. You'll see also I will dremel out a hole for the magazine housing too. Thanks for taking ths time to read!

Thanks a bunch fellas! It's been satisfying to make progress like this as I've been on the planning stage for quite some time. I know right Tino! I gleaned this idea from another trooper here on FISD - his logic of switching between blaster bolt and stun with the flock of the thumb on the grip, such a great idea! Totally, will see to have the button recessed well enough ... end transmission "click"

Hello again folks, another update coming your way. Focus this time on the selector lever and assembling the BlastFX mode button with acorn nut and accompanying washer. I first dremeled to shape the turn knob on the rotary switch. With a square file to follow-up, I'm able to get it pretty clean. I then progressed to shaping the underside of the selector lever as well. I would later pat down the edges of the circle with green stuff to make it extra snug. At a later stage, when I get to painting, I will finally glue this piece tight using CA glue. I then proceeded to carve out resin so to make way for installing the BlastFX mode switch. I figured I could follow along the bottom of the ridge (see picture) to keep my mod inconspicuous. I took out my trusty dremel bit (this is a must have attachment as there's teeth on the top as well to push resin away along with sweeping it from side to side) and was careful to stay under the concave part of that upper grip part, and it worked! On test fitting the mode switch, I decided to drill pretty deep into the circle and the channel ran pretty deep too, so not to have the final button protrude too much and to minimize the curving of electrical wiring - the ideal was to simply plop the electronics in with little resistance. Lastly, I made the acorn washer have a wider inner circle to fit the acorn nut from underneath. Also drilled deeper into the underside of the acorn nut using a 1/8" drill bit - it now sits much deeper overtop the BlastFX mode button. I decided to also dremel away some of the the BlastFX Mode button so the acorn button / washer will sit more recessed in the circle cavity. Will do that soon... Just test fitted for now ... Have to recess the whole thing in cavity, thinking to use hot glue. That's it for now fellow builders - until the next update, have a great day!!!

Duplicate post, please ignore

I figured you meant to say install happened via the charging handle track anyways, it's all good. This can allow for the screw head to sit flush against the inner tube, for pulling back of the bolt. Don't think I'll attempt to mimic a pull back bolt, but maybe! Glad the install of the 2nd screw worked for you. Thanks for following-up, cheers!

Cool Brian - good to know you figured that was a viable option as well. You've given me food for thought on how to execute...well see. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Much thanks for your words of insight Tino As I have my trigger components and electronic wires poking out the top of my grip piece; will skip on the install of pins / screws as I have limited real estate but keep to glueing with e-6000 and using screws on either end. I will use screws that came with your completion set, the ones meant for stabilizing the handle of the folding stock. This will be a more streamlined, practical approach for me [emoji6] Thanks again! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Feel for you about your struggles with paint - yet so close to the finish line ... your son is very wise and a huge source of encouragement, what a blessing. I suspect a lacquer based paint was applied over an enamel base paint. A very studious recovery Kevin, good on you - now for round two, you can do it!!!

Hello again, As I am figuring out the install of electronic components to the grip / trigger housing, I am brainstorming how to best stabilize the grip to the receiver tube. I will follow what's in the E-11 Reference to add pins / screws before gluing but I wonder if it is necessary to further stabilize using screws installed on the front and back end of the grip (see green arrows) I recall in T-Jay's 2014 build; a screw was used, sandwiching the trigger guard end and grip to the receiver tube... Suggestions? Comments? Thanks for reading

Hi thebeasts101st, to answer your question straight out; I didn't experience any delay with doopydoos and also don't have any contact with them directly at all apart from making the order, even though my folding stock, had one of the 'wish bones' broken upon arrival but decided to repair it myself. So that's my experience, hope that helps. Thanks also for the two thumbs up! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

So often, blaster builds end with display stands. It really is quite a journey to get to the end. Excellent showcase of your beauty of a blaster! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Nice find Tino! Looks like the 'R' refers to the method in which to use the SMG, like as in ...repeat single shots...and do so manually. This makes sense next to the 'A" for automatic shots. Next up is selector lever, fingers crossed [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Good day folks, some notable progress here. Wires outfitted with heat shrink tubing and MDF board installed to support base of rotary switch inside cavity - nice and snug now. Rotary switch knob is nicely oriented too. Ah...that good old green stuff once again - closed cavity with it and shaped it following SMG references. Will need to drill out a hole and sand down slightly to get it just right. Here's a trivial question - why is the 'R' for the selector switch mean 'single shot?' Very curious - what is the meaning behind choosing 'R' for this. Selector lever remains; gonna leave that for next week! Cheers mates! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

This is an opportune time to be in touch with T-Jay for his completion set. He's been hinting on a special item for sale that may get a reveal soon...I'd stay tuned for that! Wish you all the best on your E-11 build journey!

Tonight, did a bit of a tidy up job amd some planning. Rotary switch rotated to desired position. Now the middle setting of the rotary knob is alligned to 'R' setting. Also noticed the switch is sitting low; will need to elevate the switch with a piece of plastic. Also, wires got labeled and tidied up as well. To be continued.... Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Much thanks for that tidbit of detail Tino about the glue, cheers [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Thank you gentlemen! Great food for thought. Haven't decided exactly how I will go about this but because you guys didn't mention glue, will curb that idea as it's likely not necessary.

Hello folks, made small strides today and need help. First off, I sanded off the base of the selector switch to get rid of excess resin. Right now, I'm not clear how to attach the selector lever to the rotary switch. I was thinking of sanding down the turn knob on the rotary switch then drill a cavity to the bottom of the lever and attach that way. Use e-6000 to glue. And since there's a flat part to the knob, fill with green stuff? Is there another way? Amy help is appreciated, Thanks!

Quick update after my 60 minute sprint after dinner. Four wires successfully soldered to the rotary switch. Although originally left feeling short handed in using lead free solder; lead based solder did the trick and gave me a boost of confidence. It's lower melting point allowed me to solder with ease even at a 30 watt setting on my soldering iron. Tinning the soldering iron tip also helped allot. I was pretty frustrated with lead free because it took forever to melt the solder and with these small wires / components, experienced a huge headache. The light duty lead bases rosen core solder (60/40) at 0.8mm gauge was awesome. With wires only 1/32" thick, it was definitely the right solder choice for the job. Minor adjustments remaining include rotating the switch more and positioning the switch lever further up by 2mm to match SMG references. I also need to label the wires so they can be made sense of when accessing them from the receiver, post installation. Finally, green stuff will need to be added along with a plastic sheet to close off the cavity. Yeah yeah lever needs to be installed too; can't forget about that More to come; thanks for reading!