Dracotrooper

From Tinos 2016 build, I gather that only front lens with lens carrier is installed along with a retainer ring...the carrier and ring can both be had from the monocular? Is this lens carrier the black piece I was able to un thread out from the back as seen from the bottom picture? Interested also to know what are the pros and cons with installing front and rear or just front small lens...and what is the best orientation as well...curved lens facing out or in? Perhaps light can be shed on how to keep the reticle focused after install of small lens.... Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Great to hear from you Freduster! A novel approach as it does make use of your contents on hand - making use of both small lenses. How did you take out these components by the way...did you have to smash broken the silver painted plastic out shell? Heres a picture from Tinos 2016 build that helps us all understand... Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I need some help here friends - anyone to share how they went about installing the lens from the small housing from Tinos monocular? Suspends mentioned if installed a certain way, the reticle seen from the large lens is blurry? I also recall Cableguy installing by using a q-tip? I am also unclear whether I am to extract the small lens from the housing? Or install it as is...minus the rubber edge? Not very clear how best to install...any help is appreciated =) Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi again, I find myself jumping back to the scope build. I've hollowed out more off the edge of the larger end of the scope body. This to better accommodate the monocular large lens housing. The dremeling was very focused this time around with identifying the cut extents with my sharpie =) Thanks again for dropping by! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi again, Tonight I jump to the exposed bolt. I had demolished my work done earlier with the clearing strip and the extractor and plunger component in the doopydoos version because I needed a way to install the BlastFX at the time. Now, I've created a new exposed bolt out of thin aluminum. I had originally followed Ducati's template but found it had slight differences. I ended up outlining the exposed bolt extents on the doopydoos...came out pretty close. Of course, details to come like serial number, clearing strip and plunger and extractor...thanks for dropping by! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi all, More progress on the large monocular lense install. Carved away at the scope end cap to best accommodate it. Following the blaster reference picture, made it so the housing for the large lense of the monocular sit flush as possible against the back of the lens retainer, as revealed in the doopydoos scope end cap. I did more work to it than what you see in the pictures, it sits more flush now. Check out the pictures =) Thanks for dropping by. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Maybe celephane, thin clear plastic sheets krinkeled up inside the tube would hold the LED strip in place to keep it from hitting the tube? Now I'm out of ideas .... interested to see how you will go about this, wish you the best! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Heres one idea - perhaps use a clear acrylic tubing to house the LED strip? If so, the tubing cannot be larger than 2cm OD. Because it is clear, the lights can be clearly seen. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi all, Small progress - I went and cut away the unnecessary thread part of the large lens of the monocular. I had to do a second go to get close to the lens retainer ring. I had to be careful not to scratch the lense with my hacksaw blade...success! Finished off by sanding even the cut end, happy with the results! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Good to know - I will keep this in mind when I get to that step, cheers! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Wow - nice explanation! It all makes sense now, thanks Tino. For next steps, I will cut off some metal from the large end of the metal monocular part so the lens is accessed closer and fit it in the scope end cap. Need to also make adjustments to the scope tube as well to fit them in. I was off center when I hollowed the scope so I need to do some recovery with .... you know what? ... you guessed it - green stuff.

This magazine you have is quite accurate and only needs some sanding to clean out some rough parts and to make some edges 90 degrees. From the photo, in the middle part where you have the edges, make it 90 degrees where those two lines meet. It is this 90 degree edge that will sit against the edge of the magazine housing part. That wave like pattern on the inside is accurate - marvelous detail here. See below for a picture to give you an idea about where to shorten it. You can use the yellow line as a guide. The dotted orange line shows where the edges of the magazine housing needs to be fairly close to. Hopes this helps!

A major blunder on my part...no emergency!

I know - I've become so familiar with your 2016 build, my updates really show that lol Nothing wrong here, it's just me! I wasn't wearing my glasses I temporarily secured the reticle lens with sticky tack - green stuff to follow for final install. Reticule lines are seen clearly with my glasses on, heckm heckm, silly me. To confirm, the larger lens being concave contoured on the outside, images seen through it are upside down?

Hi folks, Took some time today to look more thoroughly at the singular monocular from Tinos completion set. I have a rough idea how to install it to the scope but rather confused how to install the tiny lense with the reticle I've studied some pictures to know if I need to add green stuff to keep the reticule lense a certain distance from the large lense but still unsure. Right now, as the picture shows, the reticle are blurry when the lense is up against the small end..anyone can lend insight?

Hi Cube, there was a discussion lately on replacement magazine for doopydoos - check it out: https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45179-replacement-e-11-magazine/&share_tid=45179&share_fid=44557&share_type=t As for the end cap clip, you can check out shapeways.com for suitcase props, not sure about other options... Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi all, Installing the bayonet lug has been a nice challenge this evening. I have yet to glue the lug to the reciever but will share the progress this far. In following my build goal in trying to get my doopydoos blaster much like the real deal as much as possible, I've created the grooves on the reciever tube for the lug to sit on. I also, as shown in previous posts, added a circular base to the doopydoos lug and have dremeled one end of it to make it more flat to contour nicely against the receiver. This following SMG reference. Pins added to prepare for final glue and install; wouldn't want this little component to be bumped right off and not notice. Pins to stabilize to ensure it's a permanent fixture to the blaster. I've masked the glue-surface and will need to re-prime before install with glue, update to come [emoji6] Have a terrific day, and happy building! Thanks for dropping by [emoji4] E-6000 applied and stabilized with electrical tape while curing.

That's right, there's enough space there and it will look cool. Glad you have the LED the way you like it now

Wow - great progress on your Hengstler Counter. The brass screws are looking marvelous and your green stuff applied will make a difference in the final look, great work so far. Curious to know how you will go about installing some electrical components. I've seen people hollow out a portion of the counter window to accommodate the display screen - in your case, perhaps the bar graph component will go there, or a window large enough to accommodate both? Keep up the fine workmanship, Marko

Hi all, A follow up with the end cap retainer. I have it installed against the 2mm of green stuff added to the end of the reciever. Test fitting with end cap is just fine. Now pretty elated to see the reciever painted with grey primer. With magazine housing and front and rear sight installed, quite happy with the progress. I've masked away some parts as well like the metal parts of the rear sight and muzzle screws - hoping to make some details pop at a later detailing stage. Excellent to see it with uniform color hiding away all the green stuff though. We all know how much I used. Inserted inner tube, had from completion set, before spraying to keep inner parts clean and sides of vent holes and charging handle track painted nice. Thanks for dropping by friends! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Hi all, Small update here. Primed more components of the blaster. Also carried through with Tinos suggestion for ensuring the 2mm was in place between the base of the rear sight and the end cap retainer. This would make sure the twisting of the end cap can be achieved when pushing the cap forward. End cap retainer needs to be put in place still. It looks like there will be less gaps than before which is great - a much cleaner look than before. More updates to come, thanks for reading! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Thanks a bunch Dan - my heart still weighs heavy without the BlastFX ... wounds mend in time. Thanks for the encouragement though, means allot.

Thanks allot Tino - it does feel good to make progress in other areas of the blaster now Following up with sanding is a great suggestion and easy to do, I'll see how much I need to do. When I carved out the end cap retainer, I did so unevenly so that's why you see unevenness when I install it back on the receiver tube. I think between the blade and horizontal wobbliness when I went about the cut made this happen. Indeed, I may very well have taken out 2mm. Appreciate the heads-up so I keep to my build goal of getting it close to the SMG as possible and ensuring for functionality. I will need to add green stuff here to get the ~ 2mm and level it out. Surprising! Their money grab plot didn't pan out after all. Hope pictures stay available for all FISD posts that relied on photobucket

Hi all, Quick update here.... WIth or without the BlastFX, having purchased Tino's quality pieces still puts a smile on my face when I think of my barren and very hollow blaster I'm happy to say I have no way of short circuiting any item from the completion set, that's enough of that! Painting the E-11 is a fun part of the Blaster build. Grey Primer applied to many parts. I sprayed over the shiny parts too; figure I can buff the paint out with the right dremel bit. Rust-Oleum Grey Primer on Folding Stock Primer paint on trigger group and front sight pin and block Way cool to see these in grey - there was allot of green stuff otherwise! Magazine and End Cap with Primer Paint Coil grabs the spring cup pretty tight, which is able to keep the it in place. Coil install against spring cup Here is a rather ugly picture of how the end cap retainer is sitting on the rear of the receiver tube. I'm just glad the end cap is sitting nicely and with the 'T' of the end cap clip installed, the lock mechanism is working just fine. Testing positional accuracy of end cap and end cap clip Coil is compressing nicely with the pull of the charge handle. It really is interesting to see it hollow where the exposed bolt was. I will need to add a cover at a later time. Testing the movability of the Rear of the Exposed Bolt Will go about priming the receiver tube in the next few days - this will be fun to see it all grey; post to come shortly, thanks for reading! Current Status of Priming some major components of the E-11

Hey there Marko - my plan is to prime and paint now