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TheSwede

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by TheSwede

  1. Merry Imperial Christmas
  2. Correct, I use elastic like the movie suit though.
  3. Some nice progress at the Imperial factory....brackets are in and this time I countersunk the screw-heads, drilled the holes for side-connection, cod and put the belt together - just missing the covers....just a small break to get some exercise in then back to work
  4. If it`s not noticable then it`s no doubt also approvable for L2/3. Although you can`t have a holster for HWT and making it removable with snaps make them visible on the canvas so I guess you`ll need 2 belts anyway, unless the side pouches hides it of course, not 100% sure so you could send a PM to justjoseph63 and he will know for sure
  5. And so you should, put the center cap in first and then put the belt on the ab and mark the outer ones on the canvas..this helps avoid stress and belt popping of, I learned this from Troopermaster Here`s how the belt looks laying flat - looks wrong but is right
  6. Does it look something like this?
  7. I hope you`re right I`ll try not to be to over-confident
  8. Thanks It`s not that hard and altough I woulden`t recommend my *just go for it* approach check Chrickets thread on how she did them and you`ll find it easy
  9. What he said
  10. Helmet done Edit: forgot to paint the ear screws Immediately started trimming and the torso and shoulders/bridges are done and that`s it for today *woop woop*
  11. Awesome! Congratulations TROOPER
  12. But still....one step closer of being a Stormtrooper
  13. Looking good and I for one like the raised brow-look perhaps just a little thinner on the black outlines? We must have the same book
  14. Looks fine, for screen accuracy they should be trimmed more in the front, see pic, the CRL however shows them just like how yours are CRL No
  15. Glad it helped and just to clarify, that suit is a Hero-version meaning different helmet and 4 rivets/fasteners for the holster
  16. didn`t even think of it so had to check and...well...*yeez*
  17. Start with the inner return first, a little at a time a few mm can do wonders in getting the thighs higher and it look better with some return left if possible....and like Sean said, see how it looks with the cod held in the right position...you want minimal black showing but to high and there`s a possibility of mobility issues instead as well as noise and chafing...but in my opinion it all comes down to looks.....I can just barely navigate stairs and it`s not pretty when I do so but that`s the way I like it - minimal black showing with even gaps. Here´s how it looks when I walk to give you an idea
  18. I had to look even closer and maybe I see it about 2inches up from the bottom, correct? They should be at the bottom RS suit for reference
  19. I don`t see any elastic at your lower bell, that will help keeping the bells in. And try to shorten the elastic at the top, bells idealy should touch the bridges. Since you asked the reviewer to clarify it`s best to let that person answer. Stunt only has 2 rivets/fasteners for the holster, yours seem to have 4. Frown appears fine - can`t help there. Keep it up - almost there
  20. Decided to start with the tube stripes before cleaning up the pin stripes to make the helmet look some what finished...some touching-up and they will do
  21. I have, it`s awesome and I plan on stealing the design not the whole cabinet though, just the "rack" and incorporate something for the DLT and T21
  22. So many builds going on right now, hard to keep track on them all and I´m quite pleased - for now Me and my son at Rogue One (not 501st approved FX kits I might add) uppdated pack on the left. . Updated the Shadow-bin Now they match
  23. They are They normaly are 25mm (can vary) but they should stop at the ridge, not go all the way up.
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