TheSwede

Start with the inner return first, a little at a time a few mm can do wonders in getting the thighs higher and it look better with some return left if possible....and like Sean said, see how it looks with the cod held in the right position...you want minimal black showing but to high and there`s a possibility of mobility issues instead as well as noise and chafing...but in my opinion it all comes down to looks.....I can just barely navigate stairs and it`s not pretty when I do so but that`s the way I like it - minimal black showing with even gaps. Here´s how it looks when I walk to give you an idea

I had to look even closer and maybe I see it about 2inches up from the bottom, correct? They should be at the bottom RS suit for reference

Go for it!

I don`t see any elastic at your lower bell, that will help keeping the bells in. And try to shorten the elastic at the top, bells idealy should touch the bridges. Since you asked the reviewer to clarify it`s best to let that person answer. Stunt only has 2 rivets/fasteners for the holster, yours seem to have 4. Frown appears fine - can`t help there. Keep it up - almost there

Decided to start with the tube stripes before cleaning up the pin stripes to make the helmet look some what finished...some touching-up and they will do

I have, it`s awesome and I plan on stealing the design not the whole cabinet though, just the "rack" and incorporate something for the DLT and T21

So many builds going on right now, hard to keep track on them all and I´m quite pleased - for now Me and my son at Rogue One (not 501st approved FX kits I might add) uppdated pack on the left. . Updated the Shadow-bin Now they match

They are They normaly are 25mm (can vary) but they should stop at the ridge, not go all the way up.

You guys are too kind...or quite possibly looking on your phones with smaller screens but don`t get me wrong, I´m happy with the overall look of the helmet, (TM stuff is just awesome!) and the general paint-job, though it was a struggle and the pin-striping could be alot better...but some touching-up and it will be okay I could have used templates or "fill in the dots" with masking tape but wanted to free-hand it so Do it! If you`re not happy then put the decals back on I will hold you to it good thing about TD helmets is that there`s no pin-stripes, they are the hardest, for me anyway Made a world of difference - thanks again Yes I ordered the lot from TM, screen accurate strapping kit, latex handguards, holster and a belt. And he included a grappling box for free (thanks) so I will attached that to the current Hero belt along with the comlink I made and with this second kit I can have the option to go with either the Luke- or the Han-look meaning that one suit will have the grappling box and comlink permanently fixed to the belt but the other suit has the TD cannister and hence the option for a Stunt OR a Hero Han-style just swapping out the helmet...I know I could have attached the grappling box with clips and just got a Stunt helmet and still would have had the same choices but....that`s not how they did it in the movie, the grappling box is riveted to the belt and yeah I could have just got a second belt but naaah I wanted the whole suit

Thanks though not overly happy about the pin-striping but after some touching up and ignoring to look right at it it will be fine Using your tip to zoom when taking photos of the helmet so it resembles the real thing much better this time around

Pin-stripes in need of some touch-up and then it`s tube stripes - tomorrow

Thanks painting the helmet is not my favorite part of a build but I don`t want to use decals either so...

just choose size, click copy on "direct link" on Imgur and "right click" here and paste - done (you have to wait a few seconds when you paste, if you "click" on something the link is displayed instead)

Imgur is super-easy

I´m not sure if this applies to the 2.0 kit (hoping it don`t) and perhaps you`re already aware but for Centurion the CRL states: AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. AM back plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. And some info on the Shins: The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net Best of luck on your build

First pass with the the grey by MrShaky WIP

Ditto, plan on getting a few more for a gun rack dislay later on

I snap it in and then step into the clam-shell pulling it up

I just got one too and like Dan said they are great to work with..I have a DLT19 but wanted the E11 for TRLJ so contacted IW and they rusched pruduction (withouit compromising quality) in order for me to have it in time...the postal service however did not anyways, it`s a great looking blaster at a very good price and they also have the R1 and a foam blaster that looks good

Thanks and I coulden`t agree more, I´m super-happy with this kit and the work-perk

Looking good

Looking great Tony I see a Vader for your next costume

More painting....some minor clean up ( vocoder mostly) and then fill in the grey - that`s for tomorrow

Amen to that

Congrats on your armor and have fun building it