vettereddie

You can always build your own vest, I just need to convince the wife to do the sewing parts.<br><br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34011-howto-ukswraths-first-order-heavy-gunner-flyye-vest-modification/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34011-howto-ukswraths-first-order-heavy-gunner-flyye-vest-modification/</a>

No idea on armor differences, I'm 90% sure putting in an order though this weekend. Plenty of time to start shopping for soft goods and an F-11 before September (let's be honest, November) of 2017. Site is working now stateside, though shipping estimate is $0.00, so will likely be another bill when it finally ships. Any experiences w/ cloth gaskets, worried the latex are going to turn it into a sweat suit real quick.

If you notice in the profile pic of the last image on the Hasbro page, there's a panel seam in the rear of the helmet, I'm assuming for a battery door. --------- I'm guessing it would need to be filled, unless it turns out the same on screen.

Don't think it's fully live yet. It's not listed on the main Star Wars page for sale, the See More attribute under the Add to Cart button is labeled hidden, and when I went to do a purchase it got to the shipping method screen it won't calculate and Continue to Payment Method is greyed out. Hopefully soon.

I have the Anovos w/ neck seal. The zipper is holding up well for me (still difficult to zip around the bend from bib to rib) but the bib rubberized material is starting to break down. Noticing flaking on my suit and there's an area in the rear where the base fabric is becoming visible. Not sure if it's from all the helmet removals or what, will be looking for a more durable finish option in the future.

Acetone worked for me without damaging the fabric. Unfortunately, there seems to be a base under the white screen printing that's staying firmly w/ the fabric, even after hot washing. Sharpie what's left and should be good.

Have a few scuffs and one long scratch I don't know how they got. Any recommendations on cleaning /polishing? White shoe polish? Would also love a way to tint slightly to match the Anovos, Imperial Boots are a starker white. Figured maybe with time it would even out, same with TKittel belt.

Sharing the office w/ the wife, but she has her craft room and I have the basement living/game/theater room. Enjoying the conversion process, it's amazing what a Target paper towel holder or some pvc pipe and MDF can do for helmet & blaster stands. Still trying to find a proper location for darts, has to be opposite the TV as nerf darts are bad enough

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19398-howto-use-novus-plastic-polish-12-and-3-ah-ah-ah-i-love-counting/

Holding out for the Anovos standard kit, but if they don't offer soon may be looking at other options. Is the KB ABS and does it match the Anovos plastic? love the look and sharpness of Jim's but don't want to deal w/ sanding, prep and paint.

James, definitely get in touch w/ Garrison Tyranus. To know what you're getting into, they're having an armor party August 27 in Woodbridge. it would be a great hands-on to see other people's builds and get tips/tricks for when yours arrives. I have the Anovos and it's one of the more user-friendly kits for a first-time builder, mainly due to the pre-assembled helmet and cut-lines molded into the abs to give a guide. Only tricky part was assembling the thigh armor, after trimming and adjustment the rear seam isn't flat and requires some work to get the cover strip to hold. Hope to see you at some for the joint events w/ Old Line Garrison in the future.

Welcome Tom, saw you on the Facebook build group, congrats on approval. First troop is the best, you should enjoy it quite a bit. Just a few lessons learned to add: - Helmet fans, almost a must to keep the lenses from fogging, lighter 3600 mAH stick battery is sufficient for trooping, the bigger 10000 mAH brick was too heavy - Anovos undersuit is crazy hot and will leave the armor purple on the edges, replace when funds allow w/ a moisture wicking compression suit - If you haven't put inserts in your boots yet, now is the time. Your feet will thank you for the first troop Have fun

Not a problem, mine didn't come w/ a screw. Thanks for the epoxy tip, JB Weld plasticweld epoxy putty worked great to hold the threaded posts to mount the lenses in the ANH helmet, should work well in the FO TK bucket.

Just got the vaderpainter in yesterday, were you able to pop the aerator out without removing the indent from the helmet? Not sure what the weird tab behind it is either.

I ordered my ANH TK kit from Anovos in November last year and got it in March. 9 months isn't unheard of, have you sent a ticket through their online system (assuming it was Anovos)? If you check their Star Wars updates page it says estimated delivery for the pre-assembled Q3 2016, so that could be any time from 1 July to 30 September. https://anovos.com/pages/star-wars-updates http://support.anovos.com

Received it and fits great. Love the attention to detail with the raised epaulets and even a 501st clothing tag.

Pot that comes with a propane turkey fryer should hold anything up to a full torso. Also doubles as a brew kettle.

On the advice of HFX Productions, I decided against this mod. The blaster is solid, so no support structure inside and the barrel may not respond well to drilling, tearing instead. Ordered a standard for a ready made blaster out of the box. I've shifted to contemplating moving the sound guts from the Disney to inside my forearm armor, putting the pressure switch on a finger tip mount inside the glove. No lights, but will give sound when touching the trigger.

Looking to stay away from the Doopy because of durability. Would love to know if the hyperfirm has a skeleton, i.e. PVC pipe backbone and under handle. Will shoot them a message on Facebook, or are they on RPF? If there's a support structure, I wouldn't worry as much about toughness. Will keep posted, likely ordering end of this month, B-grade to attempt in case I butcher it. Not worried about heat, circuit's only active during trigger pull and on two AAs not exactly high current. LED would be exposed to air with the hollowed end barrel.

I picked up a Disney E-11 and did a quick paint job to have something to start trooping. I noticed how inaccurate it is at the 501st booth at Awesome-con, smaller scale, flattened magazine and counter, etc. However, I do like the blaster sound effects and light-up barrel end, makes it a lot more fun to shoot back during Blast A Trooper events. Has anyone added light / sound into a Hyperfirm? I'm contemplating getting one and transferring the trigger switch, board and LED. Hardest part I would think would be battery accessability. I'm thinking of drilling out the barrel, and cutting / splitting from the underside w/ an exacto to embed the boards, speaker, etc. I'm guessing rubber cement or black rtv would bond it back after work completion, has anyone tried this? Coming up empty on the E-11 and helmet /blaster electronics board searches.

Don't lie, you're Winnie the Poohing behind that car door to sit behind the wheel. I ended up making fan mounting plates from spare ABS and mounting them to the rear of the hovi tip. This let me mount the fans directly under the lenses. Also freed up space to e600 an l-bracket to mount the cutoff switch to the inside of the cheek tube, pointing down just forward of the ears. Allows me to cut on/off at will with my thumb.

I have the Disney, somehow it "feels" smaller, though comparing it to a Doopy Hasbro they are the same length. The stand-alone trigger vs. the sliding one on the Hasbro is nice, the front of the barrel however tapers even before the orange plug and is in no way accurate. The counter and magazine also seem squished or flattended, definitely narrower than the full-size Hyperfirm I compared it to. I'm seriously considering just getting a hyperfirm or other rubber blaster and cutting into it to add the electronics. Battery should be able to be relocated from the stock housing, and the sound/light boards inside are tiny.

Wonder if there's any discount for current TK owners. Given the lack of comfort (though accurate) of the under suit and gloves that the ANH TK came with it I'd prefer to a la carte soft goods from other vendors.

I have the UA Coolswitch Run top, in addition to the screen printed logos the back of the collar is grey cloth w/ the UA logo in black. I ended up using fabric dye on it that's made for polyester I got from Jo Anne fabric. The instructions have you boil the shirt in the dye for around 30 minutes, when I took it out of the pot the chest logo was flaking off, and the inside printed tag was peeling. I used acetone based polish remover to no effect, will try again w/ 100% acetone from the hardware store. For those having difficulty, I suggest a hot water bath as it does not seem to hurt the material and definitely has an affect on the logos.

Anovos Kit was around $900 to get TK approval: Basic kit- $650 + 63.50 shipping Anovos Boots- $69.90 + $35 shipping ImperialBoots Flight gloves- $24.80 Amazon 17.70 Thigh belt- $7.99 Amazon Snaps/straps/elastic - ~$40 Jo-Ann Fabric Lexan scissors - $17.70 Amazon Total- $908.89 Still modding for trooping comfort, added an Under Armour heatgear top, the Anovos is like thermal underwear, fan/battery pack for the helmet, and new lenses from trooperbay for better visibility. Will likely also go with an Aker/iComm setup for voice, better leggings, plastidip interior and padding for armor bites. Probably all in for $1,100 to get it where I want for fit and function.