Alay

Thanks guys For those guessing...

TK-20466 and TK-66402. My amazing husband and I on his first troop. Can you tell which is which?

They came out amazing! I'd love to purchase some if you both are willing to produce more!

Forward progress! I can finally feel sensation in my thumb again too! I bought some extremely heat resistant gloves so I'll never be silly again.

I'll have to take a look! This build hasn't gone much of anywhere yet, as I (like an idiot) dipped my thumb in boiling water while trying to warp the ABS shoulder bridges.... been waiting for this nasty painful burn to heal before going further, and getting a heat gun/proper gloves. Hoping to get some progress done this weekend and over turkey time off

What did you use to weather? It looks great!

Awesome! Take your time, do your research as you're building, and most of all have fun!

If the kit doesn't come with lenses, you can use welding shielding or grind shielding that's tinted green. Cheap on Amazon and you can cut to size for the eyes and just putty or glue them in

I have no knowledge of the TFA TK helmet, how it should look, or what to look for, but $100 isn't an unreasonable amount to gamble on something if it looks correct and doesn't have red flags, and you have the money to spend. That said, I'd personally go with a vetted seller.

SE-14r will probably be my go-to because it's my favourite blaster, but the DLT-19 is a great choice. My husband is working on a PTL Missle Launcher for his

Helmet always looked kinda chubby to me... anyone else get that impression? Need to nab one at some point

I actually didn't cut either side as the height was fine (I'm 5' 8"), just the width. The notch of course is in the bottom as per the CRL.

Now that we're done with my husband's TK, it's time to get to work on this. I have nearly everything needed except tapered cups... any suggestions on something I could nab on Amazon or something? I got these flat caps for the ends... I don't have a dremmel, how should I go about opening up the bottom? I'm thinking I drill a bunch of holes in a circle until it pops out? Does the CRL implicitly state they have to be open at the top and bottom? Or would these caps as is work?

Your thighs could be pulled up higher I think... they look to me like they sit a bit low. Might just be preference for me though... I like mine pulled up tight. You can reduce the width by taking material off them and re-gluing the cover strip... I had to do it in my build (some pictures here that might help)

Belt Assembly Part 3: Drop Box attachment Once you've glued your drop boxes together, drill a nice 5/16" hole in each towards the center top. You'll then want to take two long pieces of 1" elastic (probably about a foot and a half each +/-). Fold over a bit at one end and burn a matching hole, then pop-rivet it to the dropbox. Now take the drop boxes and loop the elastic behind and over the belt. You'll want about 1/4" space between the top of the dropbox and the bottom of the belt face. You'll also want to line up the side of the belt face with the side of the dropbox. I like to apply a bit of E6000 here so it stays put, but you could also sew the elastic together and to the belt. Once dry, cut the excess elastic off, then burn off the ends so it doesn't fray.

Belt Assembly Part 2: Attaching the belt to the ab plate. This part is kinda of tricky, but doing it right can be the difference between a really irritating belt to attach (my kit) versus really simple (this one) First thing I did was measure and drill holes on the ab plate. 29mm left of the left most "ridge", and 15mm from the return edge seam on the left side of the ab. 46mm right of the right most "ridge", and again 15mm from the return edge sea I then attached snaps as shown in the pictures. You want male snaps facing outward. A 5/16" drill bit works great for Tandy Line 24 snap posts. Laying the canvas belt over the ab plate, I then mark the location where the snaps should sit against the belt. I do this by firmly pressing the belt against the ab plate where it should sit, then marking the center points on the indents. Burn holes where marked, then attach female snaps facing INWARD on the belt. If you're silly like me and attach it either facing the wrong way (bad) or using the wrong hole (also bad), you can remove a snap with a drill bit quite easily. Fits on great now!

Today we'll be building a ANH Stunt TK belt. This one is not mine, but rather my husband's, as we're nearing completion of his AP build. Part 1: Belt Face & Holster First thing you'll want to do is cut and trim your belt face. The corners need to be angled off at 45 degrees. Once it's cut as expected, I find the middle point of the belt face, and mark/drill a hole. Then on the left and right sides find the center and go about 3/4" from the last "bump". Mark/drill there. Next, find the center of the canvas belt and mark it. Line up the center of the belt with the hole you drilled, then mark with pencil on the other two holes. Burn a hole in each location (or use a puncher... I prefer to burn them.) Finally, slide a female chicago screw (1/4", I use Tandy brand) through the belt face and make sure it fits nicely through the hole. Put all 3 female screws in, then glue the caps on the belt face. Make sure to get a nice glob of glue ontop of the screw head. On the holster, please note I'm using an AP holster, so sizes may be slightly different on your build. The distance of your holster from the side will depend on your waist size as well. Adjust accordingly! Measure 1 1/4" from the bottom of the little attacher tab thingies, then find the center. Mark them. You'll also want to measure and note the distance between the two crosses. This is the distance your belt holes need to separate. Mark the belt face 1" from the right side of the plastic, 1/4" from the bottom of the canvas belt. Make a second mark the the distance you noted above. Burn holes everywhere!!! Once again, make sure the chicago screws will fit through the holes on the holster and belt. Attach the holster to the back of the belt using the chicago screws. Make sure they're tightened so they won't come off (Powerdrill is your friend here). Make sure the slotted side is on the inside of the belt. Tada! Onto the next parts!

I didn't notice until I looked deeply at the pictures. You should be fine. You can possibly ABS paste it if you are really bothered by it.

imgur.com is a pretty good alternative

Hey Jay Jay, There's no return edge on them anymore, I just cut out the same sized slot again on the new armor. There are no explicit return edge requirements for any of the armor pieces at Centurion (in fact, the only return-edge related bit is that the wrists not have them!) so you do not need them. That said, return edges can be desirable and add the look of "bulk" to the armor. If you have a heating iron and you're brave you can probably recreate them fairly easily. Here's some pictures of mine

You can optionally blow out the top-back and bottom-back of the shins and thighs, respectively, to add more movement, which can help with things like dreaded stairs You're looking great dude. Awesome job.

Start on the arms... biceps/forearms/shoulders. They're probably the easiest to construct and let you get a feel for E6000 and assembling!

I'm a tad shorter than you, but similar in weight (125-130lb~), might be useful for you to check out the alterations I did to my thighs in my build... here. I think your helmet might just be tilted forward rather than too high on your head. Is it fitting comfortable on your head? Where are your eyes sitting relative to the lenses?

Your thighs look a bit oddly rotated actually, which might cause the "too big" feeling. That said, trimming maybe 25mm off both in the back was what I had to do for mine to fit me nicely. What's your size/weight if you don't mind me asking? The kit looks very good on you! Also your drop boxes seem very oddly positioned... they should be in line with the edge of the belt face.

Thanks! And it is a Hyperfirm. I absolutely love it; it's sturdy enough that it has a decent weight to it, looks accurate enough for trooping, and it's rubber so I can let kids hold it for a picture without worrying about it getting broken. Also makes something great to lean against on longer troops