SlyFox740

Your Hengstler Counter replicas are looking awesome so far Chris. Very accurate stuff! Same with the Greedo Killer flash hider. This E-11 kit it really starting to come along.

No problem, you're very welcome. I don't believe the E-11 in Rogue One has any lights or LEDs that I'm aware of aside from the flashlight. I believe you're referring to the Shoretrooper's E-22 blaster.

You're very welcome, it was my pleasure doing it. This should be helpful for anyone planning to do a Rogue One E-11 Blaster Build.

These look incredibly accurate. I'm absolutely loving it. Keep up the amazing job Chris!

If you're happy with it that's great, power to ya! While it may be the best blaster that you have personally ever owned many people on this forum will disagree with the statement that it's the "Best E-11 Blaster EVER". I commend you for doing your research on the lawsuit between Lucasfilm and SDS however you are very incorrect in assuming that Andrew Ainsworth at Shepperton Design Studios is "the original prop maker of all the props in Star Wars A New Hope" he actually didn't make any props, not a single one. He was contracted to manufacture the stormtrooper armor for the costume department and that's it. He DID NOT design or sculpt the stormtrooper Armor, that honour only goes to Liz Moore (R.I.P.) and Brian Muir. Andrew Ainsworth being a maker of canoes and fish ponds at the time simply molded Liz and Brian's sculpts, that's all. The actual props were made by Pinewood studios, SDS had absolutely nothing to do with the props. The golden standard for the E-11 Blaster will always be the real genuine vintage parts used on the original props. Many people on here have paid more for a real vintage Scope or Counter than you have for your entire blaster so you'll understand why they would disagree that this is the best blaster "EVER". It just doesn't get any better than the real thing. However I will point out the the power cylinders on the airsoft based E-11 blasters in the new Rogue One movie are believed to have been taken from an SDS E-11. However these power cylinders are very inaccurate and much different than the original power cylinders seen in A New Hope as they claim to be.

Funny you should say that, a USMC Shelter Half is actually the best guess we have for the 'Weather Shroud' though this can't be confirmed for certain. The beige/brown shelter halves are certainly the correct color and texture and they even have a history with Star Wars found parts as the Boba Fett's cape.

The E-11 blasters in Rogue One, or any Disney Era E-11 are most similar to the E-11 blasters in A New Hope, however there are actually several differences. Some are just minor differences, and some are more significant changes but every aspect of the blaster is different is some way big or small. Our detachment commander has requested that I start a thread and list the differences so this will serve as a 'Blaster Reference' for the Rogue One BlasTech E-11 (often mistakenly referred to as the “E-11B” which is not correct or canon). The Rogue One Stormtrooper CRL is currently being developed for our detachment and there will be specific requirements concerning the blaster details similar to any other stormtrooper CRL. I will list the differences and show examples as best as I can. I'll start off with this image from the Rogue One 'Ultimate Visual Guide', a very nice hard cover book full of great photos and information. And a higher quality version of the same photo, I believe this is the Hero Prop. Here's a list of all the parts and how each component on the R1 version differs from the ANH version. 1. The Base Gun The E-11 blasters in R1 are based on an airsoft S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG. The E-11 blasters in ANH were based on a real 9mm Sterling Mk4 L2A3 SMG (Sub-Machine Gun) 2. The Scope The Scope used in R1 is a 1943 M38 Telescope made by M.H.R. Co (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Company). The Scopes in ANH were mostly 1942 M38 Telescopes though at least one '43 can be spotted in the film too, they also used model M19 telescopes in ANH as well. The main difference between them is that a '43 has a wide front foot and a '42 has a narrow front foot. 3. The Counter The Hengstler counter used in R1 has a small (mini) eagle logo and the more common plastic socket cover. The Hengstler counters used in ANH all had the medium or large eagle logo and the rare vintage metal socket covers. 4. The Power Cylinders/Rangefinder/Targeting Sensor The Power Cylinders used in R1 are believed to be taken from a SDS (Shepperton Design Studios) E-11 Blaster. This blaster is widely known to be inaccurate here on whitearmor.net and the power cylinders on it are nothing like the originals seen in ANH as it claims to be, the SDS power cylinders are a very unique design. The Power Cylinders in ANH are an unknown found part taken from electrical equipment that has yet to be identified to this day. 5. The T-Track The origins of the T-Track used in ANH is also unconfirmed, however the T-Track used in R1 looks noticeably thicker than in ANH. I believe the T-Track used in R1 was taken from an SDS (Shepperton Design Studios) E-11 Blaster similar to the power cylinders. 6. The Scope Rail The scope rails in R1 appear to be mounted a bit higher than they were in ANH. The rails in R1 are also mounted somewhat differently, often with a block and screw type design. The rails in ANH utilized a bent tab at the front seated into the first receiver hole and another tab screwed to the rear sight aperture or riveted directly to the receiver. 7. The Flashlight Last but not least and probably the most significant change aside from the airsoft gun or power cylinders is the addition of an entirely new greeblie on the right side of the blaster; an Element M300A Mini Scout Light (Airsoft replica of a SureFire M300 Tactical Flashlight) 8. The Flashlight Rail The flashlight is mounted to the right side of the airsoft gun through the receiver holes using a short 3-slot picatinny rail. There are many short 3-slot picatinny rails available but the screen used one has sharp corners with a rounded groove on the back surface to mount flush against the side of the airsoft receiver tube. 9. Extras Some E-11 blasters in Rogue One have extra little differences, nothing significant but there are a few small noteworthy things that are not consistent across all the E-11 props. 1. The Base Gun It is immediately fairly evident that the prop department had to use whatever was readily available at the time, due to production deadlines, filming schedules, ect. I was personally building an all metal E-11 blaster during the production of Rogue One and I can assure you that sourcing metal parts was very rare at that time, even replicas let alone vintage ones! There were not many options for E-11 builds then and mostly everything available were resin casts, it was pretty sad. I actually ended up resorting to the exact same steel Airsoft Sterling that the prop department at Lucasfilm did for Rogue One; The S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG. Most of the blasters seen in the movie along with most promotional media images are actually a resin or rubber cast, But I believe the one in this image below to be the master 'Hero" prop with the steel airsoft gun, real flashlight, ect. You can see through the slot for the charging handle that the receiver is actually hollow, and you can see the receiver holes that the ends of the T-Track are inserted into. Also notice the thickness of the folding stock. This prop would be used for closeups and such while the rubber casts would be used for background extras and stunts or any kind of considerable action where there is a concern for the actor's safety. Here is a resin casting of the Rogue One E-11 blaster, notice the charging handle slot, receiver holes and the thickness of the folding stock. The airsoft S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG is different than a real 9mm Sterling Mk4 L2A3 SMG in several ways, some greater than others. The airsoft gun is a close representation of a real Sterling meant for recreational sport, it was never intended to be an exact replica, It's fairly close but some of the dimensions are different. It should also be noted that S&T actually produced a limited edition "E-11 Blaster" version of this airsoft gun, though this is not what the prop makers used in the film nor is it accurate to any E-11 used in any Star Wars film ever. The prop makers for Rogue One started with the standard S&T Sterling L2A1 as a base for the E-11 Blaster. The main differences from a real Sterling are in the Grip, the Rear End Cap, Muzzle Cap, and the Folding Stock. Like I said before there are many other differences too but I will just focus on the most obvious ones for identification purposes. As you can see the Airsoft Grip (top) is much more square and also a bit bigger than the real Sterling Grip (bottom). The airsoft gearbox is right above the trigger which is why it looks much bigger and more 'bull-nosed' than a real Sterling trigger group. The selector switch on the airsoft is thicker and the letters for the selector switch are also in a different order. And the other side. Airsoft (top), Sterling (bottom) The next most significant difference is the Rear End Cap or the "Blaster gas cylinder cap" as it's referred to in the Rogue One visual guide. The Airsoft (top) is bigger and bulkier than a real Sterling (bottom) which is actually tapered towards the front of the gun unlike the airsoft version. Also the airsoft is pointed in the bottom back corner where the Sterling is rounded. The Muzzle is fairly close but there is a difference. The Airsoft (top) has a sharper edge than a real Sterling (bottom) which has a rolled edge. Also the hex bolts on the real Sterling have a diamond cross hatch knurling pattern and the Airsoft ones have a standard spline knurling pattern. The barrel hole is clearly smaller on the Airsoft due to the difference in caliber to a real 9mm Sterling sub-machine gun. Also the receiver holes on the airsoft are slightly smaller than a real Sterling and the bayonet lug is different as well. The Folding Stock is also fairly close but again there are some differences. The Airsoft (top) has bends that arch inwards where as real Sterling (bottom) has bends that arch outwards. The real Sterling also has a small block on the end of the support bar at the base of the 'Y', this block is completely absent on the Airsoft folding stock. The real Sterling folding stock is also made of thicker steel than the Airsoft one is. The Airsoft folding stock is mounted with slotted bolts and the real Sterling folding stock is mounted with carriage bolts. The only real permanent modification the prop makers made to the Airsoft Sterling was cutting down the length of the magazine to be much shorter and removing the internal components. They also added a dome headed hex screw to the existing hole in the magazine bottom plate. Unmodified Magazine Length. Modified Magazine. Dome headed hex screw in magazine bottom plate. They also drilled a hole in the Bayonet Lug as a forward Sling Attachment point, however this was not the only method but more on that later. 2. The Scope Like the original scopes in ANH, the scopes in R1 are also M38 Telescopes, although for the most part a different model year was used. They are both a found part taken from an M4 Sherman Tank Periscope. The scope or "Targeting Macroscope" as it's referred to in the Rogue One visual guide is a 1943 M.H.R. Co M38 Telescope while the E-11s in A New Hope had 1942 M38 or M19 telescopes. Although at least one 1943 M38 can also be spotted in ANH as well. The main difference is that the 1943 M38 has a tapered front foot where as the 1942 M38 has a straight front foot. The '43 also has a gap between the prism housing and the front foot where as the '42 does not. Here is a 1943 M38 (top) and a 1942 M38 (bottom). Notice the difference in the front foot on both scopes. Front view of a 1942 M38 (left) and a 1943 M38 (right). Notice the front foot on '43 is tapered and the '42 is straight. This is a photo of a screen used resin cast scope. Notice the year in the engraving, this confirms a 1943 M38 was used. The serial number on this screen used scope is No. 110332 as you can see. Below is a confirmed photo of a DoopyDoos resin cast M38 scope, notice the matching Serial No. 110332. These resin kits from DoopyDoos are very common, the prop department seems to have used whatever parts were readily available for all of the E-11 components. It is difficult to confirm if the scope on the steel airsoft based 'Hero' prop is actually a real metal one or not. Though due to this discovery I assume it is a resin cast as it is highly unlikely that Lucasfilm is in possession of the original M-38 Scope that DoopyDoos made their molds from. 3. The Counter The Hengstler counter used on the R1 E-11 is similar to the originals used on the ANH E-11 aside from a few key differences. The counter used in R1 has a small (mini) eagle logo and the more common plastic socket cover. The counters used in ANH all had the medium or large eagle logo and the rare vintage metal socket covers. It should be noted that the plastic socket cover in R1 is modified to have a window cut-out for the eagle logo. You can clearly see the mold injection points which confirms a plastic socket cover was used instead of the original metal socket cover. Also the counters in R1 have the wire terminal connectors removed and in ANH they are still attached. Here is a comparison photo of the three different eagle logos that have been used in Star Wars movies. The first small eagle on the left was used in R1, the medium and large eagle logos were both used in ANH (middle, & right) It should also be noted that these all have two screws, any versions of the eagle logo with only one screw are not screen accurate though they are much better than using Hengstler's current "H890" logo. This photo shows an unmodified plastic socket cover on the left, and on the right is a modified plastic socket cover with a window cut out for the small eagle logo. Here is another photo of a plastic socket cover modified with a window cut-out to expose the small eagle logo. Similar to the scope it is difficult to confirm whether or not the counter on the 'Hero' prop is actually a real one or not. Though I assume it is a resin cast as well. The Counter is attached to the blaster using a Bracket mounted to the scope rail between the scope feet. The image below is actually a screenshot from The Mandalorian but it is the exact same prop that was used in Rogue One as well as the SOLO movie (Disney Era E-11) Notice the Counter Mounting Bracket visible under the Scope. The Counter Bracket is actually a sideways 'T' shaped bracket with 4 Hex screws holding it to the back of the counter. Then the Counter Bracket is mounted to the Scope Rail with 2 Hex Screws. If it helps to demonstrate; here is a blaster with the Counter & Mounting Bracket, and another blaster without the Counter & Mounting Bracket. It should be noted that all the blasters in the film appear to have counters on them, I cannot see any that are missing in the movie. 4. The Power Cylinders These are images of screen used power cylinders from Rogue One. The power cylinders in R1 are very different than the original ones seen in ANH. Here is a comparison photo of both kinds. Rogue One on the left, A New Hope on the right. The original power cylinders in ANH were cut from racks like this one, the origins of which have yet to be discovered to this day. These cylinders were used on many other props in ANH aside from the E-11. including the hood of Luke's Landspeeder as seen here, The MSE Mouse Droid, The targeting systems in the Y-Wings, and Luke's X-Wing while approaching Degobah. The power cylinders in Rogue One are believed to be taken from a Shepperton Design Studios E-11, another example of the prop department using whatever was readily available. These blasters are made of plastic infused with a dense foam filler but the power cylinders were most likely recast in resin or rubber for the movie props. The SDS E-11 blaster is widely known to be considerably inaccurate here on the forums, and the power cylinders on it are definitely not cast from original parts as it claims to be. The fact that 40 years later they've now been used on screen in a star wars movie is an ironic coincidence, and one that takes place before the original at that. Long story short Andrew Ainsworth at Shepperton Design Studios was involved in a lawsuit from Lucasfilm Ltd. for public sale of stormtrooper armor without licensing rights. Liz Moore and Brian Muir sculpted the original stormtrooper design which is owned by Lucasfilm Ltd. Andrew Ainsworth being a maker of canoes and fish ponds at the time was contracted by the costume department to mold Liz & Brian's sculpts into HDPE plastic for the original Star Wars production back 1976 (film released in '77) To be clear Andrew Ainsworth at Shepperton Design Studios did not assemble the original armor or any other screen used movie props for that matter. That was all done at Pinewood Studios including the E-11 blaster. Andrew Ainsworth only molded and cast the armor pieces, he did not sculpt them, it's not his design, and he did not assemble them. Here is a confirmed photo of the power cylinders on a Shepperton Design Studios E-11 blaster. Again these Shepperton Design Studios blasters are made of plastic infused with a dense foam filler. However the power cylinders seen onscreen were likely not taken directly from the SDS E-11, but rather borrowed the design and recast in resin or rubber by the prop department. Notice the air bubbles/voids on the front of these power cylinders, clearly a recast with obvious casting defects. They are also slightly smaller than an actual pair of SDS power cylinders. The prop department also removed the coiled wires and added a second screw for stability. 5. The T-Track These are images of screen used T-Track from Rogue One. The T-Track used in R1 is noticeably thicker than the original T-Track in ANH. Here is a comparison of both; R1 on top and ANH on the bottom. The origins of the T-Track used in ANH is firmly believed to be hard black plastic T-Track from old cupboard sliding doors. This same T-Track was also used on several other props in the original trilogy such as Boba Fett's EE-3 Blaster as well as various Lightsabers. The T-Track used in R1 is believed to be the exact same kind used on a Shepperton Design Studios E-11 Blaster, it is sourced from a company in the U.K. called Tubeway Sales LTD. It is called "Insert Track" and it is designed for sliding doors, this T-track is sold under the product code: ER060B8. https://www.tubewaysales.com/cat/plastic-trims-and-miscellaneous-items/plastic-insert-and-t-track/ If you want to buy this T-Track contact Shear Tech on Facebook; https://facebook.com/sheartech or [email protected] Alternatively you can also contact 3D-Props and inquire about buying Rogue One T-Track from them; https://www.3d-props.com/contact/ Like the SDS power cylinders this T-Track is quite unique. Here are confirmed photos of the T-Track on an SDS E-11. Here is a photo of screen used T-Track from R1. Notice the thickness and shape of the fins on the T-Track match that of the SDS T-Track above. The ends of each track have also been trimmed/modified to fit the receiver holes on the airsoft gun. Here is a photo of a resin cast blaster with the flashlight missing, notice how the T-Track is not covering these receiver holes to allow for the weaver/picatinny rail to be monuted. This is very different to the way the T-Track was installed in ANH as there were no flashlights on the blasters in that movie. Other than this difference, the T-Track is installed the same way as in ANH; T-tracks covering all rows of holes except the bottom left row with the bayonet lug. Also the first receiver hole on top is left open to mount the scope rail, and obviously the very bottom row of holes under the folding stock is also left uncovered. 6. The Scope Rail The scope rails in R1 are fairly different than ANH in the way that they are mounted to the blaster. For the most part the E-11 blasters in R1 use a block and screw type design while the blasters in ANH use a bent tab type design. The majority of the blasters were resin cast which also use the block and screw type mount. There is also this alternate rail mount which is possibly a rubber cast if not resin. The front has a post and screw type design as well as a 90 degree bend in the rail while the back has a "Z" bend screwed directly to the blaster between the rear sight guards. Then there is the 'Hero' prop that the rest were cast from, based on the actual steel airsoft gun and other real parts. This particular prop has more of an original ANH style rail mount though it is taller than the ones in ANH. The front of the rail uses the same bent tab type design which is seated into the first receiver hole. The back of the rail has a "Z" bend where it is mounted to the rear sight aperture, some of the rails in ANH had a similar "Z" bend although they were riveted directly to the receiver just in front of the rear sight guard. Most of the rails in ANH were screwed directly to the rear sight aperture except they were flat in the back and mounted much lower than R1 without this "Z" bend. 7. The Flashlight Last but not least and probably the most significant change to the E-11 aside from the airsoft gun or power cylinders is the addition of a flashlight on the right side of the blaster. There were no flashlights used on the E-11 blasters in ANH whatsoever. The flashlight used is an Element M300A Mini Scout Light which is actually an airsoft replica of a real SureFire M300 Tactical Flashlight. The difference is the knockoff costs around $50 while the real thing is worth around $300. Several of these replicas were purchased for the props and many of them were mounted on resin blasters. They were also recast in resin for some of the props. You can still faintly see the text printed on some of the screen used flashlights. 8. The Flashlight Rail This image of the Flashlight Rail is actually from The Mandalorian but it is the exact same E-11 Blaster prop from Rogue One & the SOLO movie, Book of Boba Fett, Obi-Wan Kenobi, Ashoka, Andor; All the same Disney era E-11. obviously this blaster is missing the Flashlight exposing the Rail for all to see which is why I used it as a reference example here. This is a photo of the E-11D Blaster from Rogue One but it has the exact same Flashlight Rail as the standard E-11 as well as the flashlight itself. I only used this picture here because it is a great reference image for the rail. The flashlights were mounted to the blaster using an Unmark System Rail base for 416 Black(GTA1193) from the U.K. which now seems to be discontinued and sold out everywhere but there are still other identical short rails available; HERE. These were bolted to the right side of the airsoft gun through the receiver holes, and in the case of resin blasters they were likely screwed into the same position. Notice the tapered ends and the corners match the screen used rails, most short 3-slot rails have a flat bottom or different corners. Here is a photo of the bottom of the rail. Notice the curve on the bottom surface, this is ideal for mounting the rail flush to the side of the airsoft tube through the receiver holes. I believe this was done using the included screws. These are photos of several other short 3-slot rails available, close but the bottom surface is flat. Although these rails would technically work they are not screen accurate. Notice the tapered ends of the screen used rails 9. Extras Some of the E-11 Blasters in Rogue One have a Decal present on the front of the Magazine, It has a metallic silver zig zag & border pattern with a transparent background. As a side note; this same Decal is on the bottom of the SE-14r blasters in Rogue One. As it turns out these decals are actually RFID Asset Management Tags, one could assume the prop department was using them as intended for that exact purpose. They utilize UHF technology and are waterproof. It is unknown whether these decals served a functional purpose for inventory, or the prop maker just thought they looked the part. Which they do! Some of the E-11 Blasters in Rogue One, in particular the ones used by the Shoretroopers also had a Sling attached to them. I have yet to spot them onscreen but it has been seen on several screen used E-11 props on display. Here is the rear sling attachment point, the hook is simply clipped onto the existing Airsoft Sterling D-Ring. The Sling strap itself is made from 1-1/4" wide Polypropylene webbing. Sling leading to front attachment point. The front sling attachment point; on some blasters the existing Bayonet Lug had a hole drilled in it. On other blasters the existing Bayonet Lug was removed and replaced with Swivel Sling Stud. The Swivel Sling Connection is a TALON brand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBH2P8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_D36FJ789HZ9RZPAWXKSB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QVX2C3R/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_VJS9GV2JYZH1JQA1AG68?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Additional Information Just like in A New Hope the E-11 blasters in Rogue One also had some issues. In ANH some of the blaster props were inconsistent in terms of all the components on them. Some of the blasters were missing Hengstler Counters and Power Cylinders, they were assumed to have fallen off during production as they were only crudely glued onto the Sterling to begin with. Coincidentally some of the E-11 blasters in Rogue One had the same issue. These images are from Celebration Europe and the Rogue One Visual Guide, I have yet to spot these inconsistent blasters in the actual movie. These inconsistencies will not be allowed in the new R1 Stormtrooper CRL just as they were never allowed in the ANH Stormtrooper CRL. I'm assuming these components also came off the blaster during filming as props are often heavily abused during action sequences. This photo from Celebration Europe shows an E-11 blaster missing the Power Cylinders. This image from the Rogue One Visual Guide shows an E-11 missing the Hengstler Counter. This photo from Celebration Europe shows an E-11 missing the Element M300A Flashlight and mounting rail, as well as the Hengstler Counter.

Wow Jim! Your latest update looks incredibly amazing! Really Impressive work, you are very talented. I would like to point out one minor thing though, not sure maybe you just missed it but the middle ab buttons/ribs have a ramp at the top as well. ------ The sides also appear to have a ramp too. -------- It looks like your sculpt might have a bit of a slope, maybe it's just the angle of this photo but it looks like it could use more of a ramp. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/ciT0ue.jpg

I have the visual guide as well, I wonder if "Weather Shroud" is intended to be a type of poncho for the Trooper or just a cover for the pack itself? Or both?

This year at Comicon I trooped over 8 hours straight with my steel blaster ... I can handle it just fine The other troopers were impressed with me to say the least, they know how heavy my blaster is. I wonder if the original suit actors even stayed in kit that long. A real scope, real counter, rail, bracket, steel power cylinders & plastic T-track are all extra added weight on top of the sterling, not to mention wearing the armor. I have an original complete grip section from the first deactivated sterling parts I ever bought. The trigger group is completely functional too.

Steel is WAY too heavy for trooping! trust me, the thought is cool and all but holding it up for hours on end is pure torture! Plus if you want steel, just get a real deactivated sterling with a real scope and real counter, a set of fieldmarshall's steel power cylinders and you'll have a tank of a blaster! The real thing will always be the golden standard but the purpose of this project is to bring the community something it's never had readily available before: A lightweight metal Sterling replica made almost entirely of aluminum, and not just an aluminum Sterling replica, but also an aluminum Scope replica, as well as other parts being replicated in metal like the counter and power cylinders. An All Metal Blaster that is light enough to actually troop with, trust me I have an all steel blaster with real parts and its extremely heavy! I can push myself to stand for quite a while holding it because "I'm a trooper" but it DEFINITELY affects my comfort and in turn my overall stamina.

Exactly! I really hate to be nitpicking but this is whitearmor.net after all. We all want it to come out as accurate as possible. It's a good thing that you appreciate the input. Much better to get it right prior to molding! Though I have faith in you, your FOTK kits were like spot on!

Jim, did you see the post above that one about the back plate? http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41169-jimmiroquai-rogue-one-tk-builds/?p=552832

Jim, as always your sculpts are amazing! I just wanted to show you some comparison shots next to images from the Rogue One Visual Guide. ------- As you can see from this side angle the horizontal ribs next to the ab buttons are actually quite deep and shaped like a heat sink. ---- http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/HToBKh.jpg

I agree with Reese the "O & II" are on a risen step, and the "II" share the same step similar to Original Trilogy TKs. Here is a photo of screen used armor from Rogue One taken at Star Wars Celebration. http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o539/Ian_Reach/SWCE%20-%20RO%20-%20Stormtrooper/20160715_141048_zps9pvq0gre.jpg

For all those interested, our friend Jim (Jimmiriquoi) is now officially working on producing his R1TK Armor. The same guy that did the amazing sculpts of the First Order Stormtrooper, and the new Rogue One Shoretrooper, Tanktrooper and Deathtrooper You can see Jim's original post here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41169-jimmiroquai-rogue-one-tk-builds/

WOW! Jim you will be the first one to produce the new R1TK armor. Are those "bucks" to be vaccuformed in ABS or will the R1TK armor be made of the same flexible fiberglass as your Deathtrooper armor?

Okay guys, Big news on the R1TK front, I literally just found out about this myself. Our friend Jim (Jimmiriquoi) the same guy who made amazing sculpts of the First Order Stormtrooper, Shoretrooper, Tanktrooper, and Deathtrooper is now officially working on producing his Rogue One Stormtrooper Armor, funny how the standard stormtrooper armor availability has come last. Probably because all the excitement over all the other new costumes Rogue One brought us, but as they say "Save The Best For Last". This is whitearmor after all, and if anyone is going to produce accurate R1TK armor, the FSID will be the first ones to do it. Check out Jim's original post here; http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41169-jimmiroquai-rogue-one-tk-builds/

Karin has since retired from making her legendary hand guards, but she sold her molds and now these hand guards are available again from Imperial Supply Depot: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41111-imperial-supply-depot/

Karin has since retired and no longer makes her legendary latex and silicone hand guards, but when she announced her retirement she also announced that she was selling her molds. The void that was left in the community has been filled as I can now confirm that Imperial Supply Depot is currently the new owner of her original molds. The legendary hand guards are still available here: https://www.facebook.com/Imperialsupplydepot/ ---- Glossy White Silicone hand guards from Imperial Supply Depot (X-Sonnenschein) ------ Latex hand guards from Imperial Supply Depot (X-Sonnenschein) ---------- Here is a picture of Karin's original molds.

These kits truly will be a game changer. As I said before Resin and Rubber will be a thing of the past and Aluminum will be the way of the future. Even plastic is better than resin or rubber in my opinion, hard black plastic that is. But these Aluminum kits from Chris will be top of the line for trooping or even a nice display piece if you ask me, way lighter than steel and much better for costuming purposes!

I didn't really keep track while making mine but I probably spent somewhere around $250 - $300 putting it all together. That's including shipping which does make it cost considerably more to build but unless you live near a place like Coleman's military surplus the shipping costs can't be avoided. And there are other obscure items like iDyePoly, CAM buckles, Antique brass slider buckles, 25mm Cotton OD Green webbing, ect. Some of these item's can also be next to impossible to find locally, not to mention the Hook Greeblie which is a VERY obscure found part.

The screen used one is long out of production now. It's really just a section of black fishing rod, anything similar will do. The best deal will probably be found locally, look for clearance products or perhaps even local used adds.

Yes the capacitor replicas look incredibly realistic, I worked closely with Chris to perfect the profile. They are directly derived from my real vintage metalmite capacitors.

Are you still planning on making Deathtrooper Armor?