SlyFox740

As they say "One man's garbage is another man's treasure" I've seen these M series sherman tank telescopes go from anywhere between $50-$600 and as Chris said the price of these genuine WWII relics will only increase and not stop. They are becoming more rare and valuable each day, they were produced during the war so it's not like they're making them anymore, this is literally the only one I've even seen come up for sale in a long time. Not to mention the fact that they were used on a world famous movie prop. So not only do you have WWII collectors seeking them but also fans of Star Wars. The significance of these antiques are two-fold, especially for people like me who are both WWII enthusiasts AND a huge Star Wars fan! Most if not all of the M19 telescopes are probably now in the hands of collectors or mounted on blasters, unless there is a surplus of them somewhere yet to be discovered they just don't really come up on the market anymore. Plus this particular scope comes with some extra parts from an M48A2 so Chris might actually be able to get it working again, with his skills I wouldn't be surprised at all to be honest. If somebody with Chris' talent buys this scope there's a good chance that person can open it up and clean or replace the lenses inside, then that person will have a real genuine functioning M19 for a good price. The fact that Chris is going to replicate the scope makes it that much more valuable too, not just to him but the entire trooper community! I can see replicas of this scope being used on many E-11s and DL-44s in the future. If you're going to make replicas of anything it's ideal to base them directly off the real thing, and I believe the exterior of this scope is in good condition.

Last I heard it's still available for sale. I actually found that listing months ago but I just didn't think about it right away, then it dawned on me. Good luck Chris, I really hope you get your hands on it!

If you only need an M19 scope for replicating purposes, maybe you don't really need a functional one as your replicas are not actually functional anyways. I found an M19 scope for sale here; http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36831-fs-real-m19-scope/?hl=scope However it does not function, and will need to be very carefully disassembled as some of the screws are "broken". But if you look at it, this piece could actually serve as a great original scope to base your M19 replicas on. It has little to no external damage other than those screws, just a little worn/weathered but that's the exact appearance most troopers go for! This could work perfect for you.

The awesome thing about his Mic Tips in particular is that they are made of hard plastic like the real ones were, not resin. Because of this they are much more detailed and accurate than your average resin mic tips. They have actual open vents on the side just like the real thing. The text "Hovi-Mix Pa2" is clearly legible at the base of the mic tips just like the real thing. I'd swear these were original genuine parts if I didn't know any better. Only the real ones in the movie were made of white plastic and painted black on the outside by the costume designer, these are opposite. They're made of black plastic so you only need to paint the inside white for accuracy, which is ideal because it makes for a much cleaner exterior finish. The same goes for his Hengstler replicas. The real ones had a cover that was made from plastic on the front half. The rear socket half was made of cast metal in the movie, but Hengstler also made these sockets in plastic as well and many troopers today use the plastic socket version. Many of the mechanical internals were also made from plastic so these counter replicas are pretty accurate aside from the fact that they don't actually function. Though there are other 6 digit counters you could strip and put inside this replica to make it functional.

Just installed my Hovi-Mix Mic Tips from SW Prop Man, they look amazingly accurate to the real thing once assembled. Robert's work really is impressive stuff.

Sorry I missed this comment, yes most blasters have their own unique sound. They differ quite a bit from one another, and yes this is very apparent in the Battlefront video game.

I could create my own with a replicated effect but that would not be authentic. As sylverbard stated there's really not enough authentic TK chatter in The Force Awakens, I could try and gather it all up to see how much there actually is to work with. Maybe we'll get some more in episode 8 to add to to it and I could put together a collection of First Order TK chatter.

I was hoping you were going to make metal Hengstler replicas to go with those scope replicas. Can the eagle logo be cut by CNC or will it need to be stamped in with a press & die? The real Hengstler I bought from you is pretty nice. I've been watching progress on your blog, the front muzzle cap looks perfect, keep it up! I noticed you said the front and rear sights are up next, try to get the same knurling on the front sight and the serrations on the rear sight if at all possible. If things keep going the way they are I will be one of your first customers Chris Congrats on your RS Prop Masters commission, and good luck on your build! It's a fun project to assemble I find. I'm sure I'll be seeing you join up with the 501st when it's all done. I do have a genuine 1942 M.H.R. Co. M19 Telescope. But as you know it is a very rare and certainly valuable antique. I'm not sure I'd be willing to ship it out or lend it out considering how much I paid for it, I'm definitely not willing to sell it. But here's the thing, I am a trained draftsmen. I took Architectural Technology in college. I have education and extensive experience in AutoCAD and some other 3D modeling software. I also have precise measuring tools, vernier calipur, ect. I've been very swamped with other work lately but If you're interested maybe I can draw up some plans for you in the future, what kind of files would you need for the CNC? Here's some photos of my M19 Also there is another option for Blaster sound boards, but similar to a lightsaber logic board this one also does flashing lights! http://www.plecterlabs.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=69 Here's a good example video of an install, it's version 4.0 but 5.0 has been upgraded a bit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08Z9tibfCrA

Awesome work on the Aluminum E-11 and Scope Replicas Chris! I have been keeping a very close eye on this project. I would definitely be interested in a completed aluminum Sterling kit when they're available. Your scope kits look great too, I'm so glad somebody finally decided to make metal replicas. I actually bought a large eagle Hengstler Counter from you through eBay months ago, it's pretty rare. I haven't seen another one like it since. Anyways I look forward to seeing more progress on this project, keep up the great work Chris!

Yup, that was ME! And I'm so glad that moment was captured on camera. I was dressed as Darth Vader, I know it's not a screen accurate Vader but my TK wasn't done yet and the entire group I went with did a Star Wars theme so I wore this. It's just a Halloween costume I put together like 4 years ago but I'm still kind of proud of it, not to mention this photo will be a memory I will always cherish. It captures one of my very first encounter experiences with the 501st. What an awesome day that was! So I believe that's you on the left Brad, correct me if I'm wrong. Do you know who the other TK on the right was? I kind of want to know now, Lol. It's a crazy coincidence that it was you Trooping the Tantive area right then and that It was you I said hi to. I had no Idea who it was but I noticed you were almost my height or so which is what I initially questioned you about. Your kit looks so good, you did an excellent job assembling that! That's why I got kind of excited when you told me it was the New AP kit. I don't know if you read my reply to your last comment in this thread on post #52, but your build thread actually helped me make the decision to go with Authentic Props, and I love the new kit. I'm so excited about it! Which is why I think it's such a coincidence, the first new trooper friend I make is the same guy that helped inspire me to choose the kit that I did. So glad I got to meet you Brad, I look forward to trooping along side you in the future.

I could have easily made them long enough to cover the seams at the bottom ridge, but that wouldn't be screen accurate at all and would not be Centurion approvable. People often want to do that but it's just not the way it was in the movie, and when they make them that long they end up having to take a razor blade to their armor once they apply for approval, AFTER it's been assembled!Not this guy, that's a great way to permanently scar your armor. Plus my inner coverstrips extend the full length of the thighs as well as all the other limbs, and that's more than enough strength needed for structural stability. My armor feels really sturdy and strong assembled this way. And as far as external appearance goes, I want it to look like it does in the movie.

I find using a small strip of scrap ABS with a nice sharp 90 degree corner on it works best for removing excess glue. It's the same plastic so It shouldnt scratch your armor as long as you're not gouging into it too hard.

Actually that tape is just there for sanding/scuffing the area before applying E-6000, If you read it's a preparation step before gluing the coverstrips, it's removed immediately after sanding/scuffing. It just helps prevent scuffing your armor with the sand paper in areas you don't want. I should also mention depending on what kind of painter's tape you're using the chemicals in the E-6000 can make the color pigments bleed onto your white armor a bit and that you don't really want. I would try to keep the glue away from the tape if possible.

Thighs I haven't updated this build thread lately but I have been making some really good progress on my armor. Documenting everything just takes me longer, but It's time to post some photos and update my thread. First I rough trim the thighs to the mold lines. After rough trimming I used a 10mm wide marking strip to locate the center cut lines on the front of the thighs only. After cutting the center lines I glued the inner cover strips to the inside front of the thighs. After waiting 24 hours I joined each half together using the same method I did for the other limbs. First painters tape, then clamps, then magnets to hold everything nice and tight while the E-6000 cures. The result after waiting 24 hours. There is one thing I did before taking this last photo, I fixed the top of the thighs to be even at the front. I did this by cutting away a bit of the outer half at the top, then I used a heat sealing iron to bend a new return edge that matches up better with the inner half. The reason the AP thighs tops don't match up is because these thighs are actually meant for overlap construction, and when overlapped they actually match up quite nice when you join the two halves together. But since I'm aiming for Centurion approval I have to use the butt-joint & coverstrip construction method. When you do this and cut down the middle both halves will not exactly match up at the center line. To fix this, first I draw a dotted line approximately where I want the new return edge, then using lexan scissors I trim the armor about 7 or 8mm from that line to remove the existing return edge. Then I carefully use a heat sealing iron to bend a new return edge. And the other thigh. After fixing the tops of the thighs I prepared the thighs for the outer coverstrip by sanding all the surfaces that were being glued. First I use tape to hold the outer coverstrip in place temporarily, then clamps at the ends and magnets all the way along. Here you can see the top my thigh return edges complete with outer coverstrips. After the front coverstrips are done it's time to fit and cut the back of the thighs. This is what I came up with for cut lines, I know it looks really uneven at this point but believe it or not I tried my best to keep things as vertically straight, centered and symmetrical as possible. The thighs are molded really uneven and the inside of the right thigh casting is much bigger than the left. After trimming the cut lines I glued inner coverstrips into the back of the thighs. After waiting 24 hours I closed the back of the thighs. After waiting another 24 hours this is the result. I kind of like these photos of all the limbs just before outer coverstrips because they can provide proof for Centurion level construction as far as "butt-joint coverstrip method" goes. As you can see there is little to no gap along the edge seams, although it's fine if there is as these butt-joints will be hidden by outer coverstrips. Then I prepare the thighs for outer coverstrips by sanding/scuffing only the surface that will be glued, as well as the back of the outer coverstrips. Using the same method as before, I first apply tape, then clamps at the ends and magnets all along to hold it in place nice and tight while the E-6000 cures. The result after drying. I used a similar method as the front to make the back of the thighs match up better at the top. I attached the thigh pack using screen accurate single cap/speed rivets and painted the head with Testors Gloss White model paint. Thighs Completed. Please don't hesitate to post any comments or critiques. Thanks

Well Kyairsoft did not make the DL-44 but they are offering a kit based on the already available WE M712 Airsoft Pistol, also they are not making the E-11. S&T Airsoft is making the E-11 based on their already available Sterling AEG. It's been posted on the "Coming Soon" section of their website forever, along with the typo in the title; "E-11 Blacter" Lol. --------- That's not even the funniest part, If you look really close at the product photos, particularly the folding stock/foregrip you can see that it is nothing more than a resin cast E-11 build, most likely with an aluminum pipe. I wonder what it will actually look like once they start producing these.

Congrats Angie! FINALLY. This build thread will break records if it hasn't already! 50 pages in and your BBB is only arriving just now. And the actual build itself hasn't even started yet, lol. You're very patient and that will pay off in the end. Good luck with your build and be sure to have lots of fun and enjoy doing it. Don't try to rush too much or you'll just stress out over it. Enjoy it while you can because once it's complete you just might miss the assembly process. It can be fun.

I see you converted a Beta Project Sterling, Nice Job on that. I'm currently converting one to ANH E-11 myself.

It looks like you still need to flip the charging handle and rear sight guard around, they are both backwards in this photo.

Thank you so much, I'm really glad you like it so far. I still have so much more planned for this build yet, I'm only getting started. I may make it look easy but like I said these modifications aren't for the faint of heart. This Airsoft Sterling is made in China and individual parts are basically impossible to get, so I only have one shot at modifying it. Considering the price of this gun I'd better do it right the first time!I'm flattered you find my work inspiring and I appreciate your kind words. Many others before me have done an Airsoft E-11 Conversion, albeit most of them are functional Airsoft guns unlike mine.

Wow that Basics Titanium White acrylic paint matches the color of AP armor perfectly! Looks amazing You did a great job assembling your kit, I have AP too. Congrats on the TK#, really looking forward to getting mine.

Wow, incredible job Tino! This blaster looks incredible, Very realistic appearance.

Thanks Dan, it wasn't too bad actually but I did have to force the knee plate into position a bit. Apparently Mark has updated this AP kit to have correct leg parts, it did seem easier than what people described with the older AP kits. But I can tell you from personal experience it still doesn't exactly line up with this new kit either. But these suits were originally sculpted by hand which explains all the imperfections and asymmetry in the design, nothing about assembling stormtrooper armor is an exact science really. Thanks a lot Aaron, I appreciate that! and I'm working diligently away at the thighs now. Thanks, I'm definitely taking my time on this one. Only one shot at this so I better get it right the first time. And I agree with you, as I said before the very design of these suits doesn't exactly lend itself to perfection or a "flawless" assembly for that matter. Having said that those imperfections and asymmetry is what make stormtroopers look the way they do and I for one wouldn't change it for the world. And I'm willing to bet most fans would agree. Thanks Brad! Yes I have tried them on with the undersuit, they fit over my lower legs no problem. Although I may need to remove a bit more of the return edge at the bottom of the shins to make more room for the tops of my boots to fit inside. I've actually read your entire build thread as well as your centurion application. You have the older AP kit where as I have the newer one but still I really like how you assembled yours, you did a great job on that! It actually helped me make the decision to go with AP.

Shins Let's do this, first the rough trimming . When rough trimming I just cut the pieces to the mold lines. After trimming the shin pieces to the mold lines I used my trusty 10mm wide marking strip to locate and draw the centre cut lines. Centre cut lines drawn on all inside edges. Then I measured and cut some 20mm cover strips using a steel ruler clamped to the table (see post #32 for how I do this again). First I glued the inner cover strip to one half of the shin at the front. After waiting 24 hours for the glue to dry I joined the other half using same method as the arm parts; first tape to keep it in place, then clamps and magnets to hold it nice and tight while the E-6000 cures. After waiting another 24 hours to cure the two halves of the shins are joined with inner cover strips only. Then I prepare for outer cover strips by taping off the area to be sanded for gluing. Scuffing up the surface of the smooth ABS plastic greatly increases the strength of glue adhesion. Similar to using ABS cement with plumbing pipes. After scuffing up both the ridges on the shins and the back of the outer strips it's time to glue them on. Using the same method once again; Painter's Tape to hold in place temporarily, then Clamps, then Magnets. Then wait 24 hours again... E-6000 is time consuming but the great thing about it is that it is strong but forgivable, if you make a mistake gluing or your cover strips move off centre while drying it's not completely permanent and it can still be removed after it dries with little to no damage to the plastic. This is really great for inexperienced builders! Left and right shins complete with both inner and outer cover strips. Now the time has come for the dreaded Sniper Knee Plate, I've heard and read many stories about gluing this on the shin and how difficult it can be. It doesn't really line up or "fit" the shin all that well and there's not much surface area to glue it onto. So it's a bit of a challenge to say the least. I ended up using 2 "C" clamps, 2 spring clamps and some tape to hold it place while gluing. After gluing. Close up profile views of the sniper knee plate installed on the left shin. I feel happy with this, the ridges and knee plate are aligned well. Here is the back of the shins, the back outer cover strip is exactly 25mm wide as per requirement. When gluing the 25mm outer cover strips to the back of your shins be sure to glue them to the outer half of the shin not the inner half. The velcro seams should face inwards towards each other not outwards. Shins Completed. Please feel free to comment or critique my work. I enjoy reading feedback and I appreciate any and all help I can get. Thanks in advance

The party that weekend never ended up happening, but I'll be sure to post here if and when it's supposed to happen.

I purchased this Sterilite 40 Gal. / 151 L industrial tote from Wal-Mart, great quality for a great price! My kit isn't fully assembled yet but another trooper with the AP kit was able to fit it all inside this bin with the bucket, though I may still get a helmet bag for that. It fits in the back of my car no problem so this should suffice for trooping. I also have some more photos of armor assembly that I will be uploading soon, shins up next.