SlyFox740

I could have easily made them long enough to cover the seams at the bottom ridge, but that wouldn't be screen accurate at all and would not be Centurion approvable. People often want to do that but it's just not the way it was in the movie, and when they make them that long they end up having to take a razor blade to their armor once they apply for approval, AFTER it's been assembled!Not this guy, that's a great way to permanently scar your armor. Plus my inner coverstrips extend the full length of the thighs as well as all the other limbs, and that's more than enough strength needed for structural stability. My armor feels really sturdy and strong assembled this way. And as far as external appearance goes, I want it to look like it does in the movie.

I find using a small strip of scrap ABS with a nice sharp 90 degree corner on it works best for removing excess glue. It's the same plastic so It shouldnt scratch your armor as long as you're not gouging into it too hard.

Actually that tape is just there for sanding/scuffing the area before applying E-6000, If you read it's a preparation step before gluing the coverstrips, it's removed immediately after sanding/scuffing. It just helps prevent scuffing your armor with the sand paper in areas you don't want. I should also mention depending on what kind of painter's tape you're using the chemicals in the E-6000 can make the color pigments bleed onto your white armor a bit and that you don't really want. I would try to keep the glue away from the tape if possible.

Thighs I haven't updated this build thread lately but I have been making some really good progress on my armor. Documenting everything just takes me longer, but It's time to post some photos and update my thread. First I rough trim the thighs to the mold lines. After rough trimming I used a 10mm wide marking strip to locate the center cut lines on the front of the thighs only. After cutting the center lines I glued the inner cover strips to the inside front of the thighs. After waiting 24 hours I joined each half together using the same method I did for the other limbs. First painters tape, then clamps, then magnets to hold everything nice and tight while the E-6000 cures. The result after waiting 24 hours. There is one thing I did before taking this last photo, I fixed the top of the thighs to be even at the front. I did this by cutting away a bit of the outer half at the top, then I used a heat sealing iron to bend a new return edge that matches up better with the inner half. The reason the AP thighs tops don't match up is because these thighs are actually meant for overlap construction, and when overlapped they actually match up quite nice when you join the two halves together. But since I'm aiming for Centurion approval I have to use the butt-joint & coverstrip construction method. When you do this and cut down the middle both halves will not exactly match up at the center line. To fix this, first I draw a dotted line approximately where I want the new return edge, then using lexan scissors I trim the armor about 7 or 8mm from that line to remove the existing return edge. Then I carefully use a heat sealing iron to bend a new return edge. And the other thigh. After fixing the tops of the thighs I prepared the thighs for the outer coverstrip by sanding all the surfaces that were being glued. First I use tape to hold the outer coverstrip in place temporarily, then clamps at the ends and magnets all the way along. Here you can see the top my thigh return edges complete with outer coverstrips. After the front coverstrips are done it's time to fit and cut the back of the thighs. This is what I came up with for cut lines, I know it looks really uneven at this point but believe it or not I tried my best to keep things as vertically straight, centered and symmetrical as possible. The thighs are molded really uneven and the inside of the right thigh casting is much bigger than the left. After trimming the cut lines I glued inner coverstrips into the back of the thighs. After waiting 24 hours I closed the back of the thighs. After waiting another 24 hours this is the result. I kind of like these photos of all the limbs just before outer coverstrips because they can provide proof for Centurion level construction as far as "butt-joint coverstrip method" goes. As you can see there is little to no gap along the edge seams, although it's fine if there is as these butt-joints will be hidden by outer coverstrips. Then I prepare the thighs for outer coverstrips by sanding/scuffing only the surface that will be glued, as well as the back of the outer coverstrips. Using the same method as before, I first apply tape, then clamps at the ends and magnets all along to hold it in place nice and tight while the E-6000 cures. The result after drying. I used a similar method as the front to make the back of the thighs match up better at the top. I attached the thigh pack using screen accurate single cap/speed rivets and painted the head with Testors Gloss White model paint. Thighs Completed. Please don't hesitate to post any comments or critiques. Thanks

Well Kyairsoft did not make the DL-44 but they are offering a kit based on the already available WE M712 Airsoft Pistol, also they are not making the E-11. S&T Airsoft is making the E-11 based on their already available Sterling AEG. It's been posted on the "Coming Soon" section of their website forever, along with the typo in the title; "E-11 Blacter" Lol. --------- That's not even the funniest part, If you look really close at the product photos, particularly the folding stock/foregrip you can see that it is nothing more than a resin cast E-11 build, most likely with an aluminum pipe. I wonder what it will actually look like once they start producing these.

Congrats Angie! FINALLY. This build thread will break records if it hasn't already! 50 pages in and your BBB is only arriving just now. And the actual build itself hasn't even started yet, lol. You're very patient and that will pay off in the end. Good luck with your build and be sure to have lots of fun and enjoy doing it. Don't try to rush too much or you'll just stress out over it. Enjoy it while you can because once it's complete you just might miss the assembly process. It can be fun.

I see you converted a Beta Project Sterling, Nice Job on that. I'm currently converting one to ANH E-11 myself.

It looks like you still need to flip the charging handle and rear sight guard around, they are both backwards in this photo.

Thank you so much, I'm really glad you like it so far. I still have so much more planned for this build yet, I'm only getting started. I may make it look easy but like I said these modifications aren't for the faint of heart. This Airsoft Sterling is made in China and individual parts are basically impossible to get, so I only have one shot at modifying it. Considering the price of this gun I'd better do it right the first time!I'm flattered you find my work inspiring and I appreciate your kind words. Many others before me have done an Airsoft E-11 Conversion, albeit most of them are functional Airsoft guns unlike mine.

Wow that Basics Titanium White acrylic paint matches the color of AP armor perfectly! Looks amazing You did a great job assembling your kit, I have AP too. Congrats on the TK#, really looking forward to getting mine.

Wow, incredible job Tino! This blaster looks incredible, Very realistic appearance.

Thanks Dan, it wasn't too bad actually but I did have to force the knee plate into position a bit. Apparently Mark has updated this AP kit to have correct leg parts, it did seem easier than what people described with the older AP kits. But I can tell you from personal experience it still doesn't exactly line up with this new kit either. But these suits were originally sculpted by hand which explains all the imperfections and asymmetry in the design, nothing about assembling stormtrooper armor is an exact science really. Thanks a lot Aaron, I appreciate that! and I'm working diligently away at the thighs now. Thanks, I'm definitely taking my time on this one. Only one shot at this so I better get it right the first time. And I agree with you, as I said before the very design of these suits doesn't exactly lend itself to perfection or a "flawless" assembly for that matter. Having said that those imperfections and asymmetry is what make stormtroopers look the way they do and I for one wouldn't change it for the world. And I'm willing to bet most fans would agree. Thanks Brad! Yes I have tried them on with the undersuit, they fit over my lower legs no problem. Although I may need to remove a bit more of the return edge at the bottom of the shins to make more room for the tops of my boots to fit inside. I've actually read your entire build thread as well as your centurion application. You have the older AP kit where as I have the newer one but still I really like how you assembled yours, you did a great job on that! It actually helped me make the decision to go with AP.

Shins Let's do this, first the rough trimming . When rough trimming I just cut the pieces to the mold lines. After trimming the shin pieces to the mold lines I used my trusty 10mm wide marking strip to locate and draw the centre cut lines. Centre cut lines drawn on all inside edges. Then I measured and cut some 20mm cover strips using a steel ruler clamped to the table (see post #32 for how I do this again). First I glued the inner cover strip to one half of the shin at the front. After waiting 24 hours for the glue to dry I joined the other half using same method as the arm parts; first tape to keep it in place, then clamps and magnets to hold it nice and tight while the E-6000 cures. After waiting another 24 hours to cure the two halves of the shins are joined with inner cover strips only. Then I prepare for outer cover strips by taping off the area to be sanded for gluing. Scuffing up the surface of the smooth ABS plastic greatly increases the strength of glue adhesion. Similar to using ABS cement with plumbing pipes. After scuffing up both the ridges on the shins and the back of the outer strips it's time to glue them on. Using the same method once again; Painter's Tape to hold in place temporarily, then Clamps, then Magnets. Then wait 24 hours again... E-6000 is time consuming but the great thing about it is that it is strong but forgivable, if you make a mistake gluing or your cover strips move off centre while drying it's not completely permanent and it can still be removed after it dries with little to no damage to the plastic. This is really great for inexperienced builders! Left and right shins complete with both inner and outer cover strips. Now the time has come for the dreaded Sniper Knee Plate, I've heard and read many stories about gluing this on the shin and how difficult it can be. It doesn't really line up or "fit" the shin all that well and there's not much surface area to glue it onto. So it's a bit of a challenge to say the least. I ended up using 2 "C" clamps, 2 spring clamps and some tape to hold it place while gluing. After gluing. Close up profile views of the sniper knee plate installed on the left shin. I feel happy with this, the ridges and knee plate are aligned well. Here is the back of the shins, the back outer cover strip is exactly 25mm wide as per requirement. When gluing the 25mm outer cover strips to the back of your shins be sure to glue them to the outer half of the shin not the inner half. The velcro seams should face inwards towards each other not outwards. Shins Completed. Please feel free to comment or critique my work. I enjoy reading feedback and I appreciate any and all help I can get. Thanks in advance

The party that weekend never ended up happening, but I'll be sure to post here if and when it's supposed to happen.

I purchased this Sterilite 40 Gal. / 151 L industrial tote from Wal-Mart, great quality for a great price! My kit isn't fully assembled yet but another trooper with the AP kit was able to fit it all inside this bin with the bucket, though I may still get a helmet bag for that. It fits in the back of my car no problem so this should suffice for trooping. I also have some more photos of armor assembly that I will be uploading soon, shins up next.

I purchased this Sterilite 40 Gal. / 151 L Industrial tote from Wal-Mart. Great quality at a great price! ======= These may or may not be in stock depending on where you live, check your local Wal-Mart locations for availability with the online the store locator. US Link: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-40-Gallon-Wheeled-Industrial-Tote-Black/48194359 Canada Link: http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/sterilite-151-l-wheeled-industrial-tote/6000195957310

I just want to say thank you for sharing this deal you found on the storage tote. I looked it up online and raced to a local Wal-Mart that had them in stock. I'm in Canada so Wal-Mart charges a little more for it here due to the exchange rate, but even so it's still a steal! These things tend to be a bit expensive up here, this one however is not overpriced. I'm so glad I came across your thread, I actually have the AP kit too so it's really great to hear that your armor and your bucket all fit inside this bin! I also drive a Toyota Corolla so it fits in the back seat no problem. LOL what a crazy coincidence; AP Kit inside a Sterilite Tote in the back of a Toyota Corolla.

Thank you so much Scott, I really appreciate the kind words. That means a lot to me coming from you. I have seen many of your prop replicas on YouTube, some of the most beautiful DL-44s I have ever seen by far. But I have also seen the video of your E-11 Airsoft Conversion you did on commission for a customer. That video along with a few other airsoft conversions actually helped to inspire this build so thank you for posting that, I love how you compare it next to your real Sterling conversion it shows how accurate the overall scale is. You really do make some nice prop replicas Scott, so your comments/critiques are very encouraging. There are still some differences to correct but I'm doing everything possible to make this airsoft gun more accurate to a real Sterling before I even start converting it to an E-11. I hope you follow along!

I'm not sure how much it would help but you could also avoid using inner cover strips on the forearms to save a few millimetres of space inside. Or if it's just your hand not fitting through you could still use inner cover strips but don't extend them all the way to the inside edge of the wrist. Just cut them off by a few inches, inner cover strips are not even required so there's really no rules concerning length.

Hey Travis, yes my forearm cover strips are 15mm exactly, that is what is recommended for screen accuracy but you can vary from this slightly if required. My forearms are a little bit tight going on and off but I wouldn't say "difficult" by any means. It's only a bit tight when going over the hand but it fits just fine after that, not too snug. I find if you twist the forearm just a certain way as it goes over the hand it helps make it easier. I can definitely see why the return edge on the wrists were completely trimmed off in the film; the actors wouldn't have been able to get them on otherwise. That being said the actors that were cast as stormtroopers were all required to be fairly skinny. I'm fit in the arms but a slender guy so I don't really have any issues getting the forearms on, I have big hands but really just long with skinny wrists and also long arms. I know getting the forearms on is a common issue for bigger troopers and I believe if it's needed people usually just use wider cover strips but still try to keep them as close to the original as possible.

Thanks a lot John, I really appreciate that! Yes I did breifly mention the inaccurate bayonet lug in my chapter titles at the end of the introduction, but I may edit that post to make note of it a little earlier. I will be correcting the inaccuracies on the bayonet lug when I install the T-track in Episode V or possibly maybe even before that. There are also some other minor details here and there that I will be correcting along the way, some are noted in the introduction, and others just weren't really worth mentioning yet, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Does anyone have a valid coupon code they're willing to share with me? I'm looking to make an order.

Interesting, I think "Yet" may be the key word there. Once some more builds like this one get approved W.T.F. will eventually become a vetted vendor by definition, whether he will actually be listed remains to be seen I guess. It definitely looks to be good quality armor! And his customers seem to be very happy with the service he provides. I assume getting on that list is something that takes time and requires a history of quality product and service, any additions are probably taken very seriously. WTF is not the only one, there's a few other good quality vendors that haven't been listed yet either such as MTK or NE. Anyways I wouldn't put too much thought into it, the CRL is pretty generic about the actual armor requirements. No specific brands are required to meet approval, there are only specific brands that are Non-approved such as Rubies or FX.

Okay yes that part is uncomfortable, it jabs me in the arm a bit. I was just making all my cuts according to screen used armor from the FSID Photo Reference Gallery. I realize some of these details are personal preference and not required for approval, I will most likely end up cutting that little corner off as it already annoys me when wearing the forearms, let alone once everything is assembled. I noticed many other troopers trim this off too.

Walt's Trooper Factory armor looks really great! I've seen other W.T.F. Builds on here before but I'd never heard of it before that. Is Walt's Trooper Factory in the vetted vendors list?