sskunky

I've just found someone else recasting my mic tips and he's in the UK. Some people! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Screen-Accurate-Stormtrooper-Helmet-Hovi-Mix-Pa2-hollow-cast-Mic-tips-/221407542442?pt=UK_Collectables_SciFi_fantasyCollectables_EH&hash=item338ceafcaa http://resintrooperhelmets.weebly.com/accessories.html Decide for yourself? Mine Hi eBay username is hbark101 I've asked him to remove them but not feeling hopeful. As he's selling recanted resin helmets too.

Woohoo! Can we have tea and cake now? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree. According to TE himself he never gave permission but that's a whole new story. Yes he sold a couple of mould sets but that doesn't add up to the amount of people making armour off the back if it. Anyway this is not a recast discussion so back on topic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOL, OK, I take it back as recasting in this case is OK with the MODs. But that's how it was presented to us and as the name was completely different your trading name on here. You cannot expect people to know that. As it looks, it is a bad pull in terms of thickness etc.... I have no problem with lumps or bumps.... If you say that you are working this out then it is wrong of the buyer to air this in public but that's not how we have heard it.... Hope you work this out and if this kind of grievance is aired again in public may I suggest to the OP that all the facts are presented and not just biased one sided facts...... Carry on.........

If he's recasting TE2 and proud of it then I very much doubt he's been accepted by anyone in power to give him the ok to produce and sell this as 501st. There's no way on this planet I'd let anything that shucks go out the door. Even my seconds are 10 times better quality than that. It really pains me that these sad individuals think they can throw out BS and think it's ok. That would have been thrown in the bin if it were my pull. Sorry but it really pisses me off that guys out there just recast other peoples work and list off all the acceptance they've got! Saying that I've had the 501st tell people that my armour is not accepted! A bit rich as it's cast directly from a screen used suit! Haha. If that was me I'd have replaced it without quibble. Good luck.

Thanks buddy! I was hoping to get some more up but I forgot to take photos of the rest of the last build! I'm in the middle of another but had to take this week off as I managed to put my hand through one of my windows showing the guy who surveying my property for new windows how stuck they were! Hahahahaaa I took a small chunk out of my index finger which was a damn sight less damage than it could have been. I'd hate to think what could have happened!

Without sounding out of order you will find it quite hard to get a suit of armour to fit. 5"7" is fairly short so a screen accurate suit would be best for that but 300lb is too large without serious mods. RT MOD is more suited to the larger trooper but not so much the shorter trooper..... I had to go on a serious diet to get a suit on....... Good luck!

Oops double post.

Sds or AA are recasts and not made on original moulds. As much as he would like you to believe they are, they're not. They are a mix of recasted GF and TE all modified to look different. Apart from his helmets which are a hybrid of his own parts.

Reserved.......for updates

Reserved.......for updates

Reserved.......for updates

Reserved.......for updates

I thought you would like to see how I score & snap my armour when trimming...... https://youtu.be/-bO0ERaOjho

I said I'd do a tutorial on belt assembly. So here it is. First sew the Velcro on the belt then lay it out. Trim about 10mm off each end of the abs belt part and drill the holes centrally at the ends. Lay that on the belt in the middle and mark the holes. Then cut the white elastic for the drop boxes and lay them down on the belt and mark the holes. Glue the white elastic to the drop boxes. Take the abs belt part and clamp it to the ab plate and drill the holes to attach everything. With a hole punch, cut the holes in the fabric belt part and the white drop box elastic. Make sure everything lines up and all work is good.... Then with a couple of rivets and washers thread the rivets through the abs belt, elastic, and fabric belt and the ab plate. Put a washer on the back and secure .....DONE! HOPE THIS HELPS......

Hi Guys and Gals........ I thought it about time I put together a guide on how to trim and assemble the armour and helmets I offer. I get asked numerous times about this and thought it would be easy if I could direct them here...... I will update with further information and photos as I go. First up how the armour should look once it's trimmed.... I will add a few tutorials on how I trim the armour and helmets and what tools I use etc, etc.......... For now it's what it looks like trimmed...... CO2 Detail End Caps Sniper Plate Knee Ammo Pak Shoulder Straps Hand Guards Drop Boxes Belt Shoulder Bells Forearms Biceps Shins Thighs Back Plate Chest Plate Ab Plate Butt Plate As you can see there is little to no return edge to most of the armour. I put a small edge on the leg parts and a couple of the smaller parts but that's about it. You will also notice I pay little attention to dead straight cuts as I feel you get a better look if it's not perfect. There is so much asymmetry going on I feel it would look wrong perfect. The originals were thrown together and so are mine! I will add more as I go..........

Yes I have fire hose or the standard cheaper stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Email me at medwards5 at mac dot com. It's easier.

I can give you tips on the trimming and what tools and glue to use for the best results. Just ask.

I think viscosity is the wrong word in this case as that describes the friction between particles in fluid.

I should get out my moulds that are already bent. But they aren't as nice and the straight ones! Or make some more. Mind you that wouldn't help you ANH or ESB troopers as my Rotj are different. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good point Paul. I use 2mm so I guess you should choose the method that suits the material thickness you are using. 1.5 mm is more risky in the oven.

It's just what you're comfortable doing. I've always done it this way with great results. As long as you keep checking the straps while they are heating up you shouldn't have a problem. I actually find this method safer than a heat gun or holding it over a stove. If you're not experienced with a heat gun you can easily hotspot the plastic and melt it. Anyway you choose to do it you must be careful not to over hear it. When putting it in the oven you generally get an even heat all over the straps and the whole thing will bend evenly. Just heating a small part of the strap you are more likely to get kinks or uneven bends. But hey what do I know? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

160 Centigrade. Or 325 Fahrenheit You can go higher but at your risk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I stick em in the oven at about 160 for 3mins or do. Just keep an eye on the ridges that they don't start to loose definition and go to soft. Take them out and bend them over a small saucepan. They'll cool pretty quickly if you run them under cold water. Check them periodically while heating them.