themaninthesuitcase

He's trying to get them out as fast as he can but has had no end of troubles with parts. All orders will be honoured.

Congratulations to @giskard8 on being the first to earn the Senior Armorer award!

All accounted for. Which does indeed make 20. Congratulations on being the first to make Senior Armourer! Thank you from the detachment for embodying troopers helping troopers.

I've ben trying to work on this in a sort of "little and often" manner. I know I can get overwhelmed, or start making silly mistakes if I try do too much at once. I'd actually like to finish this so getting angry and abandoning it is not a great plan Made a start on the rough trimming, most parts will need a 2nd look to either smooth off a bit or for the bigger parts remove some in areas where score and snap was just not working. I did start using lexan scissors but it was proving to be a bit troublesome, score and snap was mostly easier so most of the parts have been trimmed that way. The left forearm was a bit of a soft pull so have left more meat on that one to come back to later to clean up. Comparing it to the Right I think trimming where I need to remove the edge will be about perfect. I have approximated the correct curve on the forearms. It's not perfect and I think what I will end up doing is removing this section and splicing in a new section cut from a suitable flat section cut from one of the large body panels. This means I won't have to fight with the rough finish left from the moulding. I will also be able to make a template and get something a lot close to symmetrical that what I have eyeballed with a pen. The plastic for the shins was nice and thick, which is great apart from when trying to trim it. Score and snap only works if you can flex it to snap it, which I couldn't inside the areas your leg and ancle goes. I'll come back to these with a dremel sanding drum later. I have a simlar issue with the wrists as well but was able to get closer to where I wanted them to be. The other thing I've noticed is that there are a couple of nasty black dings on corners. I am hoping I can clean these up with a bit of light sanding. Worst case I'll have to rebuild with some ABS paste. I also have noticed some recesses could be cleaner. I'll see what I can do with a nice round tool to push them back into place. 12/39 parts rough trimmed. Progress continues on the TD. I sand, I die, I sand again. Then fill all the bits I missed, rinse and repeat. I am following @OddViking327 excellent video but I am using 3M Acril green as I can get that here. If I could get Bondo here I would use that as it sounds like it's easier to apply and sand after. This is a couple of passes of neat filler on both, and the 1st pass of diluted on the holder. The tube had 2-3 coats before rough sanding and filler primer. This, combined with my terrible painting skills, needed to be taken back and a few more rounds of filler. One tip I learnt from the tube, is to apply a light chamfer to the edges that will be glued together. It's much easier to fill this small defect than sand off the lip. I compared an off cut to my SE-44C which is painted in the paint I plan to use to see if it's a close enough match. This is Halfords "Appliance White", which sadly has been discontinued but there is a replacement "Gloss white" that I hope will be the same tone. It's not perfect but I think close enough. This was artificial light but I have also checked in daylight and it was not visibly any different. And I'll end with a photo dump of the other trimmed parts.

The link we use for detachment access will be perfect as it will show their costumes there, if there is just the one FISD costume we'll call it close enough,

Looking good trooper, not far to go! Nothing is currently jumping out by make sure that you are working with the draft CRL and matching all the requirements.

Thank you Justin for this contribution to the detachment.

make sure you consult the draft CRL before making anything for your self

I only use PETG for my cosplay parts, though I keep looking at ABS now I have an enclosed printer.

Still not started trimming as trying to find time is proving hard. I did have an issue that I thought was resolved but alas not. I ordered the Denuo Novo neck seal. It was actually the first thing to arrive but it was clearly not the right size. Seems I had been sent a 2XL that was marked up as an XL on the box and label. Whilst slow to reply to their support DN resolved this well and sent me a new seal in the correct XL I ordered, and when it turned up it was actually an XL. Alas that's not where it ends. After trying it on maybe 2-3 times the neoprene has torn ?Hard to show but essentially where the seam is has cause the neoprene to tear: What I think has happened is the sewing has introduced a weak spot in the neoprene. Then as the velcro is pretty strong the force of un-doing it has caused it to tear. I really can't decide if I am going to make another claim at this point, or just write it off to experience. I probably should just make a 2nd claim but need to build my self up to do so. At least it would then match the included gaskets.

Even just the helmet, and even with the fact it's going to be painted up, I'd still go with that forum. It's the closest we have and it might benefit others who want to do a Rebels build.

Alcald quote a pretty low pressure, 15PSI from what I remember. I've not had this issue on my very cheap 0.4 nozzle air brush. When I got my best results it was with barely any paint actually coming out of the air brush, mostly just the air. This is a handy guide for alclad I used before: https://www.snmstuff.co.uk/alclad-ii-faq/

I think they where pointing out a typo, which I fixed

Custom jigs is one of the best things about owning a 3D printer. Especially when you need to drill holes accurately or repeatedly.

Update time. Whilst I finished about a year ago I never added the mount plate as I had a plan. Well I have actually completed that plan! Shocking I know. I'll start at the end and show how I got there, please excuse the wrong screws I need to get some M5 Security Torx as I don't apparently have any. The plate is actually 2 plates, or more accurately PCBs. Yes PCBs for making electronics. Aluminium PCBs are now a thing, and come in the perfect thickness (1mm in this case) and most importantly are pretty cheap. These cost around £9 plus shipping for enough to make 5. They are designed in KiCad to fit the horseman TFA blaster, I assume the TLJ is the same but I've not made one yet to confirm. They arrive as 2 plates, a front and a rear. The front side of each is a brushed aluminium, the back is a white PCB solder mask, with black silkscreen and hidden message in the copper layer (for the first order in besh). Also a logo because why not. I then use a 3D printed jig to CA glue them together to make the final plate. This is a little fiddly but only takes a few minutes, and a drill to drive the screws speeds things up. The result is pretty stiff, the individual parts less so. Next is mounting them. Problem is the horseman files have no pre located holes for the screws, which I pre added to the plates to fit the @R2Dan holster. The solution to this is more 3d printing. I created a jig that locates where the plate fits and allows me to drill the holes perfectly. Step one is to secure the jig. I use the "super glue and masking tape trick". Essentially you are about to make some low tack double sided tape. Apply a strip of low tack masking tape to the blaster And to the bottom of the jig and trim the excess Apply a few dabs of CA glue to the bottom of the jig and hold in place until secure. You can use accelerator if that's your thing, I didn't as I want to worry what the spray might do to the paint. We're using an M5 bolt, so the correct size hole is 4mm, well 4.2mm but close enough for what we are doing. Ensure you mark the depth so you don't get carried away. I allowed for a depth of around 12mm which should give enough meat for a secure mount. Drilling out holes in 3D prints cuts into the infill. This now leaves you with a really terrible screw interface, and it will probably rip right out. So to make this significantly stronger we're going to fill the hole we just drilled with 5 minute epoxy and leave it overnight. Apply some more masking tape, trim the holes and fill with epoxy. You might want a tooth pick to help poke it in and let the air out. It will need more then you expected as it spreads out into the print and fills the cavities in the infill. Try not to get any on the blaster, if you did like me: it's now weathering. Though in all seriousness no one will notice, as it cures very clear but just try be tidy as you will know it's there and it will haunt you. Once cured, setup you drilling jig and do it all again. You now have 2 4mm holes in epoxy not 3D printed infill. Hooray. Now if you're bored, glue on the pate screw in the bolts and call it good. If you're extra like me, continue. We have a 4mm hole, not an M5 hole and that will not do. So now print a 2nd jig, identical to the first, but with a 5mm hole in it. Mount this and use an M5 tap to cut a perfect M5 thread. The epoxy cuts well, especially if you leave it a few days to fully cure whilst the tap arrives from eBay. You don't need anything fancy, £4.88 on eBay plus a tap handle if you haven't got one. We're not cutting steel here. Do not be tempted to use a drill to drive the tap. Anger leads to hate. Hate leads to suffering... Preferably don't drop the tap and scratch your paint, allegedly. Use some white paint to touch up the alleged paint chip. For extra points apply a light countersink to the hole. Though you probably should do this before tapping. I am not a machinist, I won't judge. Glue the plate on and screw in the screws. And you are done! How accurate is this method? Perfectly accurate... and they are perfectly straight too.

Basic confirmed for @stormztrooper1 +1 and @Crow2xs +1 New total: 15

Welcome to FISD

Welcome to FISD Steve.

Welcome to FISD and congratulations on your new Incinerator. Make sure you request your 501st Stormtrooper access

I've removed this from the Over skirt section. Otherwise the rest is unchanged.

At this time all First Order armour kits require at least some filling of seams to be clearable. The holster can be found here, though a non-functional one is included in the DN kit. A full list of resources is here in the First Order section