SuperTrooper

A big hats off and thank you to Paul and Wyatt for doing the interview as well.

Throw it in a freezer for a couple hours. It should pop right apart with a little flexing, but not too much as the plastic does get more brittle when it is that cold.

Paul you are exactly right on the Must and Should have sections. These standards were written to include the current standards, but to formally spell them out. No currrent TKs should be effected assuming their GML did their job. If a member does not meet the standards is not up to me, and nothing has been said about it. TKs wearing pauldrons are and EU character called a stormtrooper officer based off a comic. This CRL entry does not cover that costume.

Sorry about that, it was supposed to be finger space.

Firstly what kind of armor you have makes a huge difference in the forearms. With the shoulder bells most troops around me have one finder space if they are average sized, or on and a half to two if they are a larger trooper. Sorry for the unscientific measurement, but getting it to look right on your frame and be comfortable are more important that measuring toa hair of being accurate in my opinion.

The CRL does not mirror the elite standards, as the elite standards will be an evolution and the CRL once ratified will probably never be revised. Also this text is not the final text as it has to get approved about 4 timed before it becomes official. As for the counter there are many blasters that don't have them but the elite standards are meant to represent the spirit of the costume, not necessarily what is seen on screen. Also there are a couple details that are in the "should have" that are not in the elite standards yet such as the detenator stickers.

24 hours.

Gang, A garrison mate found a glue called Quick Hold Craft Glue. It's made by the same people as E-6000 and is a contact cement, but dries to full cure in 2-6 hours. According to the tech sheet -----it has a higher tinsel strength than E-6000 as well. The only major difference is that the elongation % of Quick Hold is 25% where E-6000 is 900%. So has anyone ever tried Quick Hold Craft Glue?

Edited: 18SEP08 Costume: Stormtrooper Prefix: TK detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Context: ROTJ Stormtroopers are the elite infantry troops of the Imperial Army Stormtroopers must have: Armor: made from ABS, HIPS, or fiberglass. Must be in proportion to what was seen in ANH. Accepted styles are the: FX/GT, ANH styles from AP, TE(2), SDS, RT, TM, and LAWS. Also accepted are fan sculpts that are similar in size and proportion. Armor must be white. The armor must be fitted to the wearer through trimming and shimming. The body must consist of: * Boots. These must be white leather or leather like, above ankle, with a flat sole, with small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Jodhpur-type boots or an equivalent style. No buckles or laces. Elvis or mariachi boots are not acceptable. * Greaves (one with knee plate described below). Greaves should close in the back. * Thighs that close in the back (and the right with an ammo belt described below). * Ab plate (either one piece, or a separate cod & ab). The ab plate also has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (Buttons may be all black or be 3 dark blue and the rest black, approximately 7/16" in diameter). * Lower back plate (either a single piece, or separate kidney and butt) * Drop boxes, which dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt via white straps. * Belt front, consisting of a correct plastic front (TK ammo belt). * Belt should be: canvas, or canvas covered material, 2.5”, 3”, or 3.5” wide. The color must be white, or off-white. * Chest piece * Back plate. * Shoulder straps. These must be securely mounted in front, but may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. * Shoulder bells. * Biceps, which must be fully closed * Forearms, which must be fully closed * Hand plates, that cover the back of the hands. These need to be the Snowtrooper style hand guards. * Gloves. Must be black rubber, nomex, leather, or leather like. Enclosed fingered, non-textured. * A thermal detonator must be present on the back attached to the belt. This is a gray cylinder 2-2.5 inches in diameter with white end caps with a white control pad affixed, facing outwards. It may be permanently affixed using fasteners or be clipped. * Ammo belt must be present on the right thigh. * Correct trapezoid knee plate on the left greave (diamond knee plates or the absence of a knee plate is not acceptable). * Black under suit, either one-piece or two-piece. Non-textured material. * Black ribbed neck seal. The ribs should be horizontal, not be loose, and should extend from the base of the neck to the top of the adam's apple. * A holster is not required. * Blastech E-11 Blaster Rifle. Must be based off of a real or replica Sterling, or a modified Hasbro toy Stormtrooper blaster. Helmet: * Must be made out of fiberglass, ABS, or HIPS. It must be white. It must match proportionally to what was seen on screen. Helmet must correspond to ANH Hero requirements below. * Frown must be painted black and overlap the “lips”. Eight total teeth on the frown are to be cut out. * Traps and tears must be slate blue. They should be decals and not hand painted. * Rear traps & tears must have lines. * Blue tube stripes, matching what was used on screen, navy blue and black are not acceptable. There must be at least 9 and a maximum of 15. The curve must bend backwards. There does not need to be an equal amount per side. * Earpiece may have 1-3 screws (above and/or below the ear cap, at the bottom), or none at all. * Lenses may be flat or bubble green, or flat or bubble gray. * Chin must be black. * Mic tips must be present. An ROTJ Stormtrooper should have: * A screen accurate or screen approximate helmet. The "classic" FX helmet does not fit this category. * Correct hovi mike tips. * A single back piece rather than a separate butt/kidney pieces. * Ab plate buttons have 3 dark blue and the rest black. * Ab plate details (button area) needs to be upside down compared to ANH/ESB details * Shoulder straps should not be attached with rivets, and should free float in the back rather than being permanently attached. * Molded lip around the cod and chest (similar to car door trim). * Belt will be 2.5” wide. * Lenses must be flat or bubble green – not smoke/gray. * There should be no screws on the ears. * The ends of the frown should be squared off, not tapered. * Shoulder straps should not have a flat end at the ends of them, they should be ribbed 100% * Thermal detonator should have metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and should be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint. * No shoulder bell straps across the biceps * Shoulder bells are rounded at the corners * Brow trim should be low on helmet * E-11 blasters should have correct ROTJ detailing: * Correct T-tracks (total of 6) * Folding stock (does not need to function) * No Henglster counter (different from ANH) * D-ring on the rear * Correct style scope * Correct greeblies on the left rear area (door catch and two "hammers") * Modified Hasbros are discouraged but allowed ROTJ Stormtroopers may have: * If a holster is worn, the holster must looped over the belt, covering the outside of the belt, rather than being attached from behind. * Blaster details * If armor side gaps are closed this should be done by adding a shim or shims of material that must be of similar material and color as the ab and back plate. Shims should fit flush and may have seams. Ideally they will be seamless if possible to the ab and/or back plate, resulting in a single seam between the ab/back rather than extra seams for where the shims are joined. * Two greeblies on the left rear area

Edited: 18SEP08 Costume: Stormtrooper Prefix: TK detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Context: ESB Stormtroopers are the elite infantry troops of the Imperial Army Stormtroopers must have: Armor: made from ABS, HIPS, or fiberglass. Must be in proportion to what was seen in ANH. Accepted styles are the: FX/GT, ANH styles from AP, TE(2), SDS, RT, TM, and LAWS. Also accepted are fan sculpts that are similar in size and proportion. Armor must be white. The armor must be fitted to the wearer through trimming and shimming. The body must consist of: * Boots. These must be white leather or leather like, above ankle, with a flat sole, with small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Jodhpur-type boots or an equivalent style. No buckles or laces. Elvis or mariachi boots are not acceptable. * Greaves (one with knee plate described below). Greaves should close in the back. * Thighs that close in the back (and the right with an ammo belt described below). * Ab plate (either one piece, or a separate cod & ab). The ab plate also has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray. Buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter. * Lower back plate (either a single piece, or separate kidney and butt) * Drop boxes, which dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt via white straps. * Belt front, consisting of a correct plastic front (TK ammo belt). * Belt should be: canvas, or canvas covered material, 3 to 3.5” wide. The color must be white, or off-white. * Chest piece * Back plate. * Shoulder straps. These must be securely mounted in front, but may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. * Shoulder bells. * Biceps, which must be fully closed * Forearms, which must be fully closed * Hand plates, that cover the back of the hands. These need to be the Snowtrooper style hand guards. * Gloves. Must be black rubber, nomex, leather, or leather like. Enclosed fingered, non-textured. * A thermal detonator must be present on the back attached to the belt. This is a gray cylinder 2-2.5 inches in diameter with white end caps with a white control pad affixed, facing outwards. It may be permanently affixed using fasteners or be clipped. * Ammo belt must be present on the right thigh. * Correct trapezoid knee plate on the left greave (diamond knee plates or the absence of a knee plate is not acceptable). * Black under suit, either one-piece or two-piece. Non-textured material. * Black ribbed neck seal. The ribs should be horizontal, not be loose, and should extend from the base of the neck to the top of the adam's apple. * Holster made of black leather or leather like material, worn on the right. * Blastech E-11 Blaster Rifle. Must be based off of a real or replica Sterling, or a modified Hasbro toy Stormtrooper blaster. Helmet: * Must be made out of fiberglass, ABS, or HIPS. It must be white. It must match proportionally to what was seen on screen. Helmet must correspond to ANH Hero requirements below. * Frown must be painted black and not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are to be cut out. * Traps and tears must be gray or slate blue. They should be decals and not hand painted. * Rear traps & tears must have lines. * Blue tube stripes, matching what was used on screen, navy blue and black are not acceptable. There must be at least 9 and a maximum of 15. The curve must bend backwards. There does not need to be an equal amount per side. * Earpiece must have three screws. One above and below the ear cap and one near the bottom. * Green flat lenses, not gray or bubbled. * Chin must be black. * Mic tips must be present. An ESB Stormtroopers should have: * A screen accurate or screen approximate helmet. The "classic" FX helmet does not fit this category. * Correct hovi mike tips. * Separate kidney and butt pieces rather than a single back piece. Cut should be visible below the belt. * Holster must loop over the belt, covering the outside of the belt, rather than being attached from behind. * Shoulder straps should not be attached with rivets, and should free float in the back rather than being permanently attached. * Armor side gaps should be closed. This should be done by adding a shim or shims of material that must be of similar material and color as the ab and back plate. Shims should fit flush and may have seams. Ideally they will be seamless if possible to the ab and/or back plate, resulting in a single seam between the ab/back rather than extra seams for where the shims are joined. * Thermal detonator should have metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and should be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint. * Tears/Traps should be ANH gray or a slightly bluer ANH gray, but not slate blue. * E-11 blasters should have correct ESB detailing: * Correct T-tracks (total of 6) * Folding stock (does not need to function) * No Henglster counter (different from ANH) * D-ring on the rear * Correct style scope * Modified Hasbro’s are discouraged but allowed ESB Stormtroopers may have: * Blaster details * Two greeblies on the left rear area * Three studs on the right rear area

A big thanks to Mike H for the outstanding pictures.

CRL is the Legion's: Costume Resource Library. It's been a several year project that is finally starting to take form. The goal is to put the Legion's requirements into text with reference pictures. The hope is to provide potential members with a clear picture of what the Legion requires, and remove the inconsistencies between garrisons GMLs about what is and is not acceptable.

A big thanks to Mike H for providing the excellent pictures.

Last Edited: 18SEP08 Costume: Stormtrooper Prefix: TK detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Context: ANH Stunt Stormtroopers are the elite infantry troops of the Imperial Army Stormtroopers must have: Armor: made from ABS, HIPS, or fiberglass. Must be in proportion to what was seen in ANH. Accepted styles are the: FX/GT, ANH styles from AP, TE(2), SDS, RT, TM, and LAWS. Also accepted are fan sculpts that are similar in size and proportion. Armor must be white. The armor must be fitted to the wearer through trimming and shimming. The body must consist of: * Boots. These must be white leather or leather like, above ankle, with a flat sole, with small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Jodhpur-type boots or an equivalent style. No buckles or laces. Elvis or mariachi boots are not acceptable. * Greaves (one with knee plate described below). Greaves should close in the back. * Thighs that close in the back (and the right with an ammo belt described below). * Ab plate (either one piece, or a separate cod & ab). The ab plate also has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray. Buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter. * Lower back plate (either a single piece, or separate kidney and butt) * Drop boxes, which dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt via white straps. * Belt front, consisting of a correct plastic front (TK ammo belt). * Belt should be: canvas, or canvas covered material, 3 to 3.5” wide. The color must be white, or off-white. * Chest piece * Back plate. * Shoulder straps. These must be securely mounted in front, but may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. * Shoulder bells. * Biceps, which must be fully closed * Forearms, which must be fully closed * Hand plates, that cover the back of the hands. Trapezoid shaped hand guards are required. * Gloves. Must be black rubber, nomex, leather, or leather like. Enclosed fingered, non-textured. * A thermal detonator must be present on the back attached to the belt. This is a gray cylinder 2-2.5 inches in diameter with white end caps with a white control pad affixed, facing outwards. It may be permanently affixed using fasteners or be clipped. * Ammo belt must be present on the right thigh. * Correct trapezoid knee plate on the left greave (diamond knee plates or the absence of a knee plate is not acceptable). * Black under suit, either one-piece or two-piece. Non-textured material. * Black ribbed neck seal. The ribs should be horizontal, not be loose, and should extend from the base of the neck to the top of the adam's apple. * Holster made of black leather or leather like material, worn on the left. * Blastech E-11 Blaster Rifle. Must be based off of a real or replica Sterling, or a modified Hasbro toy Stormtrooper blaster. Helmet: * Must be made out of fiberglass, ABS, or HIPS. It must be white. It must match proportionally to what was seen on screen. Helmet must correspond to ANH Stunt requirements below. * Frown must be painted gray and not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are to be cut out. * Traps and tears must be gray. * Rear traps & tears must have lines. * Blue tube stripes, matching what was used on screen, navy blue and black are not acceptable. There must be at least 9 and a maximum of 15. The curve must bend backwards. There does not need to be an equal amount per side. * Earpiece must have three screws. One above and below the ear cap and one near the bottom. * Green or gray flat lenses. * Chin must be black. * Mic tips must be present. An ANH Stunt Stormtroopers should have: * A screen accurate or screen approximate helmet. The "classic" FX helmet does not fit this category. * Green flat lenses, not gray and not bubbled. * 4 ridges on the ear caps. * Correct hovi mike tips. * Separate kidney and butt pieces rather than a single back piece. Cut should be visible below the belt. * Holster must be attached to the belt from behind with two rivets or chicago screws with no loops covering the outside of the belt. * Shoulder straps should not be attached with rivets, and should free float in the back rather than being permanently attached. * Armor side gaps should be closed. This should be done by adding a shim or shims of material that must be of similar material and color as the ab and back plate. Shims should fit flush and may have seams. Ideally they will be seamless if possible to the ab and/or back plate, resulting in a single seam between the ab/back rather than extra seams for where the shims are joined. * Thermal detonator should have metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and should be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint. * Tears/Traps should be hand painted, or if decals are used should emulate hand painting * E-11 blasters should have correct ANH detailing: * Correct T-tracks (total of 6) * Folding stock (does not need to function) * Hengstler counter * D-ring on the rear * Correct style scope * Modified Hasbro’s are discouraged but allowed ANH Stunt Stormtroopers may have: * MG-34 is allowed but upgrading an MG-34 to DTL-19 is highly encouraged. A DL-19 is a MG-34 with T-racks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, small disk on left side added. * Grappling hook * Comlink * If a grappling hook and comlink are worn together, they should be worn in lieu of a thermal detonator.

I've found that HIPS is more difficult to score and snap than ABS as it tries to tear. I haven't had any problems using a dremel on it though, in fact it's my favorite tool.

For the MRCE to be 501st acceptable, you have to 1) replace the lenses 2) add the missing ear screws 3) fill the chin to face seam and 4) if needed fix the teeth but most are ok out of the box.

Looking around the forum will answer your questions: ------------- And to see what the MR CE looks like on armor, look through the elite applications. Marvinrobot and TK-2416 both have the MR CE.

My prayers are with you and Melissa. Call if you need anything.

It's not a CRP suit, sorry. I'm almost positive that is a GF helmet. I'd need more pictures of the armor details to call it, but it's probably GF as well.

Try looking here for answers: ------------

Actually we don't require the rubber gloves for elite.

That's correct. The FX thighs are quite barrel shaped untrimmed, but the left is the worst. A tailor's tape measure is a huge help as the right thigh fit me very will and I trimmed the left to match. And you should always cut less than what you think as you can always take more off later.

Just a heads up, Java monkey the thread's starter has not been on the FISD in 2 months.

I want mine numbered to make it collectible as well. I was just telling my wife today that I would love to find a nice casting of a C-38 since I'd have to sell my home to get an original.

Ok I've got another update. I finally shot some Krylon Fusion. It's whiter than the pro enamel, but nowhere close to the H20. It is also the least glossy and reflective of the three. After it fully cures I'll do some unscientific testing to test durability of all the paints. Also with the H20, I tried it out. Don't paint a helmet with this stuff. I sprayed a lite coat and the stuff is so thin it slid right off the primer and made a runny drippy mess around the bottom of the helmet. On the bright side if you are trying to reproduce the drips the originals had this actually looked very close and the drips were noticeable but not pronounced. Pictures to come later.