justjoseph63

Sadly, no, Daniel. As mentioned above Imperial Boots do run a bit small, so order a size up from what you normally wear. I have owned my sets from them for years and could not be happier with the quality or customer service. BUT, as you may have seen on their site they make them in "waves", so you have to order them within certain time frames.

My apologies, Todd, I should have been more specific. These are the ones I meant, (the image is a bit too fuzzy).

It may be the photo, but is there still a small return edge (blue line) on the bottom of the ear? If so, you may be able to trim it off (red line) so that the edge can be tucked in (or at least sit closer) to the S-trim. It won't affect approval at any level if you can't, so not to worry. EXCELLENT job on those straps... textbook work, sir.

Sometimes it's best to take a breather, Jonas. Take your time and we will be here for you when you are ready to dive back in!

Great job, Sherry! If I could make a few quick observations, They would be: 1. I realize that the first pic was a "dry fit", but eventually the top of the ABS belt should ideally be sitting at the line shown in the second photo (covering the bottom of the large ab-button panel). Looks like the belt will be wide enough to cover the seam at the bottom so you should be good to go! 2. If you want to remove some of the return edge on the top of the ab plate it should allow it to sit closer to you, which will help eliminate some of the ab/kidney gap. Screen used ab- Note lack of return edge. Keep up the fantastic work, and keep the photos coming!

Thanks for the fast replies, Todd! I just need 2 more and I can get started, brother. 1. A close-up of the teeth and a clear image of the outside edges of the frown, 2. Close-up of one of the bottom ear screws. That's it! Many thanks.

The shoulder pouch looks a bit low, Nadas, and would probably get in your way. I found that attaching it directly to the strap on the pack works really well.

Keep in mind that there are a few major differences between the ANH and ESB, Chris. The frowns are different colors, and the tears/traps/tube stripes on ESB were decals, not hand painted. The hand guards are different, as is the holster. You may have seen it already, but I have a thread here that shows all the differences in detail: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/

Will be with ya' shortly, sir!

Bucket photos done... Thanks!

Hi, Todd! Before we can "move along" we need a few more required photos, sir. 1. Close-up of the Hovi-tips. 2, Helmet shots (close-ups) front/sides/back. 3. Neck seal. 4. TD back/front 5. Holster attachment. 6. Blaster photos (left/right).

Frank is absolutely correct, Trenton. It's fantastic to hear that you want to be Stormtrooper, and you are in the true home of shiny white armor, be it a classic TK or First Order. Unfortunately, joining the 501st Legion as a TK is not an inexpensive endeavor. For a quality OT (Original Trilogy) kit you can expect to pay around $650. plus the cost of boots, etc. Be prepared to spend much more for an FOTK kit, but the good thing is that once you finish it and get it approved the smiles you will get during a troop more than make up for all that hard work. Trust me. One thing I would highly suggest is that you choose your kit from one of our "vetted" armorers. Those found on ebay and the like for the most part may be less expensive but area waste of money, and more than likely are not 501st Legion approvable. Here are 2 threads that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/ Hope this helps, and always feel to contact us with any questions... we are here to help!

Welcome back, Avery! We have troopers of all shapes and sizes, and most armor can be adjusted to fit you perfectly, so not to worry! A complete list of "vetted" armorers can be found on the first page of this thread, and some (like AM, RT and TM) supply certain pieces designed for larger/taller troopers, so we got ya' covered!

Glad to see you have been doing your research, Chris! Yeah, there is definitely a TON of information here, but if there is something in particular you need help with and can't find just ask. Building a set of armor can be a lot of fun, but it can also be frustrating at times, which is where we come in. What I always suggest is to start your own build thread here. That way, you can ask as many questions as you like all in one place (helps you to keep track) as well as post photos (lots and lots of photos) of your progress and any issues you may have. Great to hear that you will be aiming for Centurion! If you haven't had the chance to see it yet, I have a thread here which will help you on those little details we look for when applying for levels 2 and 3 that can be a bit vague on the CRLs. Take your time, ask us about anything you need to, and I look forward to seeing your build!

Those biceps turned out fantastic, Jonathan! Smart move using the soldering iron for the strapping holes, just don't forget to seal the edges as well. Keep those photos coming!!

Using a phone to post photos may be a bit challenging, but if you have a PC or laptop it's actually pretty easy using imgur (imgur.com). The advantage to posting pics here is that you have access to an entire Detachment dedicated to TKs, who will give you expert advice. Troopers helping Troopers...it's what we do! If you have any questions about using imgur or posting photos, just ask. We are here to help!

Great job, Eddie, and CONGRATS on joining the ranks of the Centurions!!!

Always looking to add another!

OUTSTANDING to know that we have another HWT about to join the ranks, Nada! Your choice of AM armor will serve you well in this role, (it's what I use for mine). If I could give you a few tips they would be: 1. Get a new canvas belt specifically for your HWT costume. Even for Basic approval it can not have drop boxes or a holster, and for level 2 it can not have holes from where you removed the holster. 2. Raise the ABS belt up a bit to where the top partially covers the lower buttons on the ab-button plates. 3. Hopefully the MP40 pouches you ordered are "leather or leather-like". 4. You gotta' "dirty up" that HWT armor! HWTs have black weathering (as opposed to earth tones like Sandies), but don't go crazy with it.. (sometimes less is more). This includes the pack. If I can be of any help, always feel free to contact me. By the way, EXCELLENT job on those ab-button plates!!!

GREAT job, Eddie! Daniel will be with you soon, sir.

It will be pretty much ready to go right out of the box, Nathan, but you may need a few tweaks here and there. Since you have to get Basic 501st approval first, what I would suggest is that you check out this thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43831-tk-pre-approval-program-overview/ Once you get your armor, post up the photos/info. asked for there and we can suggest any needed modifications. When you are ready to submit for Basic approval, you will have to choose your official TK ID number (list of available numbers here) and submit the photos to your local GML (list here). After Basic approval, you will need to request Legion access here on the FISD. After you get that, you can get info. for Expert Infantry here. Next up, Centurion! I know it seems like a lot of steps, but it's a lot easier than you think. With an RS commission suit you should be good to go all the way with minimal (if any) issues.

OK Dana, it's late and I am kinda confused here... (wouldn't be the first time, lol). In one image you show a male snap set in black nylon being attached to the tab of your chest plate (photo 1), but in another there is a shot of the white elastic apparently being glued directly on to the same tab with an ABS covers (photo 2), but the snap is missing. Did I miss something? If I may make a small suggestion, remember that the snap on the elastic that you connect your shoulder bells to gets quite the workout from being attached an removed every time you suit up and carries the weight of both the bells and biceps. But, being elastic, it can eventually wear out/stretch from use, and if it is glued directly to your armor it will be a pain to replace. I realize that that you want to be as screen accurate as possible (which is GREAT), but as you will notice in photo 3 the elastic just didn't survive well. Snaps are easily replaced. Glued elastic does not. Just trying to give you a heads-up.

Removing those snaps should be pretty easy, Eddie. Just use a drill bit the same size as the one you used to make the holes initially to drill out the center. They should pop right off and you can replace them with the silver/chrome finish ones. The whole process should take you less than 15 minutes or so. As Daniel mentioned, the E-11 could really use an entire new coat of black paint. As seen in the screen used images of the ones we have posted, there was very little (if any in most cases) "silver metal" showing. Some slight weathering is fine, but sometimes less is more. You can do this, brother, and I look forward to seeing your updated photos so we can get that Centurion badge under your name!

Looking great, Eddie, and nice job on those fixes, sir! One thing you will need to do is remove the weathering from the T-tracks and grip on your E-11. The originals were made from plastic. so there would be no "metal" (silver) showing through. There is also pretty excessive "brass" showing on the scope. A little weathering is expected, but overall it could be toned down a quite a bit.

Hi Nathan! Here are 2 links that will help show the differences: ANH Stunt- https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt ANH Hero- https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_hero