justjoseph63

Absolutely! As Steve mentioned Dave's armor is generally geared for larger troopers but I am 5'10/155 lbs. and I trimmed it down to fit my frame. No yellowing or cracks in 6 years and 50+ troops. Plus, Dave is a great guy to deal with!

I went with a flat finish on everything except the butt-stock. For that I went with a natural wood finish as seen in ANH.

Not the biggest of deals by any means, but you may want to consider bringing down your canvas belt in the back about 2 or 3 cm. As seen in the reference images, most (but not all) wore them closer to the bottom of the kidney plate for a more horizontal look. Normally I do not suggest this as many times it causes the top of the posterior plate to protrude out, but you were very wise to add Glen's V-tabs so that shouldn't happen. It will also help close up the gaps on the bottoms of the kidney/chest connection.

Looking sharp, by the way! Unfortunately the shoulder bell decal will need to be removed (for now). I know these are popular in the UKG, but since they were not seen onscreen they are not permitted when applying for higher levels of approval. Afterward you can put another one on! Side note: You don't have to get suited up, just post some updated photos of the fronts/sides of the bells.

"Apologies in advance - Imgur seems to have uploaded almost every image either upside down or to the side". I hope you don't mind, but I rotated/edited some of your photos to make them easier to see..(hope you don't mind). I just added some new information on rotating images in my thread here. It's really easy, and this way you can edit them for your next submission!

Definitely! Adam put a lot of thought into this build and it shows. The only downside to becoming a Centurion is that you tend to notice every little nuance of other trooper's armor.

Fantastic to hear, James! My Stunt and HWT armor are AM, and even after many years no cracks or yellowing. LOVE IT! As a bonus, Dave is a great guy to deal with. As Glen mentioned, since (if built to specs) you should consider planning on Centurion! We are here if you need any help, and be sure to post up lots of photos

Glad to have you here, Roux! Lots of research in front of you, but you are definitely in the right place. The best place to look for armor is in our "vetted" sellers area here. As a 501st member, I'm sure you are aware that there are some sub-par suppliers out there, so this thread will help as well. Know that we are here to help with any and all questions, and best of luck on your white armor journey!

Indeed it was. I think the confusion lies in the fact that a "space pack" is included in the CRLs as an approved accessory for ANH Stunt.

Looking great, Jamie, and what a difference from where you started! One thing that jumped out at me was the width of the ABS belt, which looks to be around 4 ½ to 5 inches wide. Although the width is not specifically listed in the CRL (only the cloth belt) you may get some pushback from your GML for Basic approval. Just trimming off the area below and above the boxes should help quite a bit

Can you post up a photo of you wearing the right forearm, especially where you are having the issue? I noticed that you have the imgur thing down, but you can post directly onto this thread by using the Direct Link.

As Cricket mentioned, the cod needs to come up, but this means the ab and chest plate will too. Luke was only 5'9", so they had to make some mods to his armor. One main change was to cut the bottom off of the chest plate (but be sure to follow the existing curves). It looks as if yours could be raised a bit as well- the ends of the tabs at the top could be a bit closer together. Raising the chest may mean you have to trim out the neck some for comfort. Another option is to remove the lower part of the ab plate, shorten it, and then glue it back into place with a shim in the back.

Yep, did the same thing to the ROTJ version I'm working on as well!

Hi Colin, and welcome back! Do you gave any return edges on those pieces? If so, they can be completely removed and will give you some more room. I have a thread here which may help. As Glen mentioned, photos will help a LOT.

I added this into the first post in case someone doesn't scroll down. THANKS!! If anyone has anything similar in a different country please let me know and I will add it in as well.

Definitely will be going with the straight promo style as I just bought an M-19 tank scope. All I have to do is grind down the muzzle tip, add a bit of bondo/clean it up and remove the D-ring mount. I will more than likely remove the raised section (below) but will keep the triangle section behind it. This is another reference presently in the ESB reference area that totally mystifies me: It's a real Sterling, but not ANH (M-19 scope). Scope is set WAY back. Scope rail is "solid" but not like ROTJ. Muzzle disk and D-ring/mount intact. No ESB greeblies. No T-tracks.. they are rectangular U shaped.

Since I will be submitting my next set of armor (ESB) up for approval early next year once I move back to Florida, I decided to make my last E-11 into a promo version. BUT.... in doing a ton of research, I have come up with a lot of questions re: the CRLs, screen caps and other references and would like to get some opinions before I "move along" and to clarify a few items for others who may be doing this build. Allow me to explain: Let's start with the L2 requirement: "Remove D-Ring mount As seen in the first two images below, D-rings were present, but in looking at the 3rd photo the red arrows show that in fact the majority had none, that there were no front "disks" at the muzzle end and that most of them look to be the "promo" types with the greeblies on the scope rail. Got it.. time to break out the Dremel and make some adjustments! Another requirement is that Remove magazine housing parts The only reference image I could find for this requirement are on the Pugman. All other images show them present in one way or another. Because of this fact I'm not sure this should to be a CRL requirement based on one particular type of E-11. Pugman Please don't take this the wrong way, and I hope someone with more knowledge of the Pugman than I have can step up and explain, but in addition to the absent magazine parts that particular scope is dissimilar to an actual M-19. The end cap is much wider/thicker and the top profile is not the same. I know it was created as a "background" blaster, but based on that distinctive scope it's profile gives it away, and I can't find even one screen cap showing one being used. I don't know where this refence photo came from originally, but it also shows the front disc and D-ring. Those of you who know me are aware that I can get a bit OCD and I just want to get it right- so if anyone can provide any insight or opinions I would be most grateful!

For those aiming for Centurion (or just looking to be more screen accurate) and have gaps in the lower thigh ridges, the usual way to fill them was ABS paste. That method (although tried and true) can take quite a bit of time, uses acetone and has be sanded down and polished afterward. Below is an alternative that should take less than 15 minutes and is super easy using a moldable epoxy called SUGRU (info. at bottom of this post). It is permanent, flexible, keeps it's color, will adhere to almost any surface and clean-up is a breeze. For those in Australia, a similar product that can be used is Loctite Kintsuglue (white) available at Bunnings. Link here. Thanks to Glen @gmrhodes13 for the heads-up! For this tutorial I will be using a mock-up of a thigh ridge as an example. Materials needed: 1. 1 packet of white SUGRU 2. Small scrap(s) of ABS or any thin white plastic. 3. Small straight-edge knife 4. Pliers (if using ABS) 5. Paper towel NOW LET'S GET TO IT! Step 1- Cut small shims as needed (photo 2) to cover the rear of the gap and give the Sugru something to adhere to. If using ABS, I suggest popping the scrap in boiling water for a few minutes to soften it up and allow it to conform to the correct shape (photo 3). This is where the pliers come in. It does NOT have to fit perfectly. Step 2- After you have the right shape, cut it to fit (photo 4). Step 3- Glue it in place (photo 5). CA (super) glue is fine for this as it will not be seen. DON'T WORRY ABOUT ANY TINY GAPS- the Sugru will fill them! 1 2 3 4 5 HINT: Wash your hands before using this product so you don't discolor it while applying. Step 4- Roll a small piece of the Sugru into a strip (photo 6) and then press it firmly into place (photo 7) filling the entire gap (don't forget the back side). Step 5- Using the knife edge, cut off the excess at an angle (photo 8), otherwise you may remove some of the filled area. Step 6- Wipe the edges with a paper towel to remove any residue (photo 9) being careful not to touch the filled area. 6 7 8 9 DONE! That was easy, right? Let it dry for 12 hours or so and you are good to go. Examples of filled gaps in screen used ridges SUGRU is available online or in many retail shops, but it is sold in sets of 3 packets- normally around $10.00. **Available in the UK in single packets for £3.15- Link here. A big shout-out to Ben @Ebio Amisi for this idea!

In a perfect world they should lie concave against the glove and not convex like the ones you have. Will it stop you from higher levels? Not at all.

Looking GREAT, Ben.. NICE WORK! I must mention something about using the Sugru for those gaps, though, and it's just one word: GENIUS! I swear by this stuff, and it never dawned on me until now how perfect the white version would be to use for that purpose. MUCH easier than making ABS paste!

If there are any tutorials on a particular subject you are looking for just let us know. I have a few under my avatar below, but as Daniel mentioned, starting a build thread in this area (link here) is the best route. That way, you can (and should) ask all the questions you like in one place and post up photos of your progress. Posting photos is especially important if/when you have an issue, and we are here to help every step of the way!!

That's what I would suggest, Geoff. Getting the curve right may not be the easiest thing to do but it should work fine. If you feel up to it, posting up a few photos of the process and end result would be great and could very well help someone out who has the same issue!

Not to derail your thread here, but Adam is spot on with that suggestion. On my very first troop my shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection popped off, so I did 2 on each side. Overkill? Maybe, but I haven't had a problem since! That includes me, and I've been suggesting this ever since I had it happen. It's a little extra work, but well worth the effort and peace of mind.

SUPER nice job on this build, Chris! Lots of great attention to detail, and I am glad to see that you went with the double snap system.. you won't be sorry you took the extra time to do that. One comment on the ear placement, though: WOW! You absolutely NAILED it.. B-E-A UTIFUL!