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Everything posted by justjoseph63
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Accurate I'll admit, and better than our perceived image:
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I'll echo what Glen and Andrew have said, Chris. You have a LOT of folks here that are not just willing and able but eager to help every step of the way! We've been-there-done-that and know what it's like to be in your situation, so not to worry... you can do this! Once you have all your build supplies in place, I can suggest a few basic things: 1. Stay organized. 2. Take.... your... time. Don't try to rush. Trust me on this one. 3. Ask questions. As many as you like. This is especially important if you are in doubt about something, especially before cutting or gluing. 4. Check your references. Often. Sometimes the CRLs can be a bit vague, and I have a thread here which will help with detailed pics. 5. Most importantly, post photos (and lot's of em'). Doing this is especially helpful when you have a question or issues. 6. There are times that you will get frustrated... we all did at some point but don't let this discourage you. Sometimes it's best to take a break from your build, check your references, ask any questions you have and then dive back in. We are here for you, and I look forward to following your build!
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UPDATE: Now that I am settled in to my new home, I dug this project out so that I can finish it up this weekend. I had quite a bit of trouble sourcing the U-channels, but finally found a set online (details to follow). Although not inexpensive, they are crazy accurate and arrived pre-cut to the correct lengths with the corners rounded. Made of 22 gauge aluminum they are incredibly sturdy. As I mentioned, this will be a display piece but I am sure they would hold up even under rigorous trooping. A quick sand with 220 grit paper to help paint adhesion, a thorough cleaning and 3 coats of paint later they are DONE! Next up: Attaching the folding stock, front D ring, U channels and weathering.
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The soles are tan and the overall look is good. The areas shown by the yellow area will be covered of course, but the raised toe cap (blue arrow) may be a concern. I would check with your GML and over at the Pathfinders Detachment (link here) for more solid answers.
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ABS stock for cover strips?
justjoseph63 replied to wh1plash's topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
Hi Brandon! You can certainly reach out to Dave from AM, but I know that there has been a shortage of ABS globally so some makers have scaled back production. An alternative would be to pick up a bottle of Armor White from Trooperbay (link here). Just mask off the areas you don't need to whiten and follow the directions on the bottle! -
DETACHMENT AFFILIATION(S) on 501st.com
justjoseph63 replied to Jartog's topic in Forum Help & Support
If you want to have Legion Access here (where your TK# and position are listed under your name) just follow the link that Mario provided, which normally takes less than 48 hours or so.. After that is complete, you will probably need to contact the Legion Captain of the Guard to add your Detachment affiliation on your profile. You can contact them at [email protected]. If you have any issues, just let us know! -
Not at all, Paul. I always put interior cover strips on everything! Although not "screen accurate" they are not seen and provide extra strength to the seams. Even if someone doesn't want to use them for the other limb parts, I always suggest at least using them on the inside fronts of the calves. Those pieces get a lot of wear from opening and closing when putting on your armor so the extra reinforcement certainly helps. Another reason for using them is that some armor parts have more of a curve and the cover strips are flat. Having one on the inside takes some of the stress off the one on the outside.
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Agreed, mesh was not seen on any TK frown in the OT, thus the part of the CRL that states "Mesh MAY be used to obscure the face of the wearer". However, TKs seen onscreen had the advantage of lighting techs that (with a few exceptions as you showed) managed to hide their facial features underneath. BUT... When we troop, we are not characters on a screen. We are there in person.. close up. Sometimes mere inches away from a fan who wants to take a selfie. I personally would rather my teeth openings be obscured by 50 cents worth of bug screen and add to the perceived image rather than look like some stranger in a cool costume.
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OK Paul.. so.... WOW! You are nailing this build, sir! SUPER nice alignment on the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection (no gaps) and a fantastic job on the ab/kidney rivet placement! Not sure if you are aiming for higher levels of approval (E.I and Centurion) but I think I can speak on behalf of the entire D.O department when I say I (we) hope so! Keep up this solid job, sir, and keep those photos (and questions) rolling in!
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That means you will be part of the Tampa Bay Squad. Lots of fantastic folks in that group and lots of events there to show off that armor! I have trooped with many of them in the T.B. area so you will be in great company. BUT, once you get your official TK # you are more than welcome to troop with any Garrison/Squad in the world! Makaze Squad (Orlando area) has a TON of events year-round so I would check those out as well.
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Is it possible to pay someone to assemble my kit?
justjoseph63 replied to sageleader's topic in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
Hi Tony! One of our Staff members (Steve) is a member of the Empire City Garrison, so I would suggest getting in touch with him. He may be able to offer some help finding someone or at least some insight about the EPG site issues you are having. I have a link here that you can PM him. -
Tim’s first time build (RS Prop Masters ESB TK)
justjoseph63 replied to TrickyT81's topic in ESB Build Threads
The positioning from the cheek is good ("pencil width") but they are on the wrong sides. The fall should lean forward, so just switch sides and you are good to go! -
As for the brow trim ends, I would trim them flat as Dan suggested, Luca. You should have no issues for Basic or even E.I approvals with them being angled, but as he mentioned, for Centurion they will need to be trimmed. While not specifically listed in the CRL, it's one of those items we insist on as 99% of screen references show the ends being flat. If they are a bit short after you do this, not to worry. While most of the ones from ANH extended all the way to the rear of the trap, the ESB ones tend to be shorter. I believe this is because after 3 years of sitting in a warehouse the rubber shrank, as the majority do not extend back as much so we allow for this. ANH ESB
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Tim’s first time build (RS Prop Masters ESB TK)
justjoseph63 replied to TrickyT81's topic in ESB Build Threads
It's hard to tell from the angle of the photo, but those look like the FX-ESB type they sell. The shape is very similar, but on the "Classic" (first image) note the sharp point on the black outline (top left), and the bottom right is not rounded. Not to worry, though! I personally would have no issues passing these. -
The many appearances of “Mr No Stripes”
justjoseph63 replied to CableGuy's topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
On the other side of the coin, I've always wondered why the number of tube stripes varied so widely, I wondered at one time if they were symbols of rank, but I'm chalking it down to just one of those "charming" inconsistencies. 11 12 13 15 16 -
Tim’s first time build (RS Prop Masters ESB TK)
justjoseph63 replied to TrickyT81's topic in ESB Build Threads
Are those decals from Trooperbay, Luca? They look great, but appear to be different from their "normal" type. -
Cracks are not that unusual, and it looks like you caught it before it extended into the outside. I would suggest cutting the ABS shim longer than needed. That way you will have more of a surface for the glue to adhere to and keep it from worsening. I would also recommend sanding down/cleaning the area first before gluing and then clamping it. Some have used CA glue for this type of repair, but I would (pardon the pun) stick with E-6000. The reason being is that it is not a perfectly flat surface, and the glue will fill any voids. It's a pretty clean split, so I honestly don't think you need to add ABS paste as it will probably not be noticeable and may be covered by your TD.
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Welcome to the forums, Martin! What part of Sunshine state are you located in? If you haven't done so, I would suggest signing up at the Florida Garrison site. For Basic 501st approval you will need to submit your armor photos to the GML Officer here, and once you get your official TK# you will have access to all the events to attend. Before you submit, you can post up your photos in the Pre approval area here, and we can help make sure that the process goes smoothly. Looking forward to seeing your armor!
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You are killing this build, Steve! (And I mean that in a good way). Loving your attention to detail and patience, sir. This is the type of dogged determination that really goes above and beyond, and for that I salute you! If I could weigh in on one thing it would be that (personally) I would not dye the canvas belt. In looking at screen caps, the "original" color was bright white (first photo) which matched the armor. However, during production those things were probably attached hundreds of times by wardrobe assistants who had filthy hands from working on the set. If you looks at Luke's belt (second pic) the overlapping end is a LOT darker. The third pic shows the exact same belt worn by the poor TK that he stole it from.
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Mobility (and comfort) are always a good idea! You can round out the "pointed" areas on tops as suggested in the pics below or even more if needed. You certainly don't want those points poking into the back of your legs! As noted in my thread here I am not a fan of return edges in most places, but I always advise that they be removed before final fitting/gluing. The reason being is that if you do need to remove/reduce them after they are finished the opening can be too large. That's not always the case, but if so fixing it is fairly simple. Reference images
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Gotta' say this is one of the best builds I have seen in a while, Paul. Lots of great attention to detail.. nice taper on the limbs, perfect gaps between the cod/thigh tops.. WOW! One thing that jumps out is what Luca mentioned, and that is gap at the top of the right thigh. I think that may be due to the fact that it is sitting a lot lower than it should because you haven't done the strapping yet, though. Once it's pulled up to the correct height it should be fine. Can you post up a pic or two of the rear thigh tops you are concerned about? You may want to trim down/round out the tab on the bottom of the posterior plate as well. Those angles can cause chafing after a while when trooping. Ouch. Keep up the fantastic work, sir, and keep those photos coming!
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Bantha Hunter's ANH Stunt Build (RS)
justjoseph63 replied to bantha hunter's topic in ANH Build Threads
Except for the heat-gun mishap everything looks to be coming along great, Lukas! The taper on the forearms looks fantastic. If I could make a few suggestions they would be: You may just not be at that point yet, but I would trim down the thigh front tops. Those points will stick into you and snag your under-suit, so I recommend shaving off all the return edge. Same with the rear tops. Although some folks like the thickness the return edges give the look of the armor, they are not a requirement for any level of approval and can be removed. Remember, comfort is what you need while trooping, and an hour or more of walking around during a troop with points sticking into you is no fun. Keep the photos and questions rolling in! -
Same here. I would definitely try imgur.com It's free, and you can edit/store as many photos as you want to (I have over 11,000 so far).